[quote name='tritosine' post='1130754' date='Oct 14 2010, 01:09 PM']Sweeping arguments here without evidence.
You can't really use DLP_Link plus emitter simultaneously, because the nV glasses won't block the white flash of DLP_Link resulting in green shade all over the screen. You don't want that.
Quality:
DLP_Link manufacturers ( except RealD) , don't brag about their contrast ratio, transmittance numbers, I guess they have a reason.
x102 said to have 500:1 , and thats laughable, even if the transmittance is high.
nV said to have 2000:1 , with a transmittance of 40% , seems to be a good trade off, IDK if these numbers are true, 720p pj's have 1100 contrast, any room with even a little little bit of ambient light (~ candlelight) hard limits contrast to 800:1.
RealD Ce4, Ce5, said to have 5000:1, with transmittance of ~35%. You need a very very good display for these ones.
( projectiondesign , Mitsubishi Laservue)
I expect Bit Cauldron glasses to be of low contrast, high transmittance crop.[/quote]
Well, I'm using an Optoma hd66 with the nvision kit, and as you know, the Optoma goes dlp link on automatically when you put it at 1280x720 120hz, I don;t have any "green" problems, it even looks better than the Xpand x102 I had.
[quote name='tritosine' post='1130754' date='Oct 14 2010, 01:09 PM']Sweeping arguments here without evidence.
You can't really use DLP_Link plus emitter simultaneously, because the nV glasses won't block the white flash of DLP_Link resulting in green shade all over the screen. You don't want that.
Quality:
DLP_Link manufacturers ( except RealD) , don't brag about their contrast ratio, transmittance numbers, I guess they have a reason.
x102 said to have 500:1 , and thats laughable, even if the transmittance is high.
nV said to have 2000:1 , with a transmittance of 40% , seems to be a good trade off, IDK if these numbers are true, 720p pj's have 1100 contrast, any room with even a little little bit of ambient light (~ candlelight) hard limits contrast to 800:1.
RealD Ce4, Ce5, said to have 5000:1, with transmittance of ~35%. You need a very very good display for these ones.
( projectiondesign , Mitsubishi Laservue)
I expect Bit Cauldron glasses to be of low contrast, high transmittance crop.
Well, I'm using an Optoma hd66 with the nvision kit, and as you know, the Optoma goes dlp link on automatically when you put it at 1280x720 120hz, I don;t have any "green" problems, it even looks better than the Xpand x102 I had.
[quote name='tritosine' post='1130874' date='Oct 14 2010, 11:52 PM']Nah nah. We were talkin about quality, not ghosting. (ghosting with DLP, wth is that , lol)
To me , it boils down to:
5000:1 = good quality linear polarizer (the best?)
2000:1 = acceptable
500:1 = mediocre.[/quote]
DLP isn't ghosting free by design, I've seen DLP presentations ghosting pretty bad.
On what basis do you judge quality on these contrast ratios ? What happens if it's low, where is the threshold in your mind between a product you'd buy and one you would not buy.
[quote name='tritosine' post='1130874' date='Oct 14 2010, 11:52 PM']Nah nah. We were talkin about quality, not ghosting. (ghosting with DLP, wth is that , lol)
To me , it boils down to:
5000:1 = good quality linear polarizer (the best?)
2000:1 = acceptable
500:1 = mediocre.
DLP isn't ghosting free by design, I've seen DLP presentations ghosting pretty bad.
On what basis do you judge quality on these contrast ratios ? What happens if it's low, where is the threshold in your mind between a product you'd buy and one you would not buy.
Passive 3D forever
110" DIY dual-projection system
2x Epson EH-TW3500 (1080p) + Linear Polarizers (SPAR)
XtremScreen Daylight 2.0
VNS Geobox501 signal converter
[quote name='tritosine' post='1130874' date='Oct 14 2010, 11:52 PM']Nah nah. We were talkin about quality, not ghosting. (ghosting with DLP, wth is that , lol)
To me , it boils down to:
5000:1 = good quality linear polarizer (the best?)
2000:1 = acceptable
500:1 = mediocre.[/quote]
DLP isn't ghosting free by design, I've seen DLP presentations ghosting pretty bad.
On what basis do you judge quality on these contrast ratios ? What happens if it's low, where is the threshold in your mind between a product you'd buy and one you would not buy.
[quote name='tritosine' post='1130874' date='Oct 14 2010, 11:52 PM']Nah nah. We were talkin about quality, not ghosting. (ghosting with DLP, wth is that , lol)
To me , it boils down to:
5000:1 = good quality linear polarizer (the best?)
2000:1 = acceptable
500:1 = mediocre.
DLP isn't ghosting free by design, I've seen DLP presentations ghosting pretty bad.
On what basis do you judge quality on these contrast ratios ? What happens if it's low, where is the threshold in your mind between a product you'd buy and one you would not buy.
Passive 3D forever
110" DIY dual-projection system
2x Epson EH-TW3500 (1080p) + Linear Polarizers (SPAR)
XtremScreen Daylight 2.0
VNS Geobox501 signal converter
[quote name='bullripper' post='1130716' date='Oct 14 2010, 11:22 AM']by a mile ............................................................
........
still need the nvidia emitter plugged in for it's 3d driver obviously but they worked straight out the box, simply looked at the screen.
Good bye IR you piece of crapola.
3D the way it was meant to be, no ghosting , no transmission issues and no yellow tint to picture (Nvidia!), better colours and contrast
And on plus side you can still use Nvidia with the Optoma's at same time.
Glad I didn't go x102's, lesser reviews and proprietry batteries ....
PS: My hack still lives with latest Nvidia drivers to get HD66 working.[/quote]
Man, if what you wrote is what i understand I will be very happy.
I recently bought an Optoma HD 66 projector and 4 Optoma Glasses ZD101 DLP Link and for my surprise, after installing nvidia 3d Driver, it asked for the 3d vision kit, the emitter.
I don´t have the 3d vision emitter nor the glasses. I thought, ingenously, they it all would work alltogether.
So, now I can´t play games in 3D, there is no driver, I think Iz3d doesn´t work since I tested it and couldn´t set it to page flipping, the method i think that dlp link glasses works.
My question is. If i buy the Nvidia 3D vision Kit can i use the optoma glasses to play in 3d using the optom HD 66 Projector, can nvidia 3d driver work with page flipping ?
still need the nvidia emitter plugged in for it's 3d driver obviously but they worked straight out the box, simply looked at the screen.
Good bye IR you piece of crapola.
3D the way it was meant to be, no ghosting , no transmission issues and no yellow tint to picture (Nvidia!), better colours and contrast
And on plus side you can still use Nvidia with the Optoma's at same time.
Glad I didn't go x102's, lesser reviews and proprietry batteries ....
PS: My hack still lives with latest Nvidia drivers to get HD66 working.
Man, if what you wrote is what i understand I will be very happy.
I recently bought an Optoma HD 66 projector and 4 Optoma Glasses ZD101 DLP Link and for my surprise, after installing nvidia 3d Driver, it asked for the 3d vision kit, the emitter.
I don´t have the 3d vision emitter nor the glasses. I thought, ingenously, they it all would work alltogether.
So, now I can´t play games in 3D, there is no driver, I think Iz3d doesn´t work since I tested it and couldn´t set it to page flipping, the method i think that dlp link glasses works.
My question is. If i buy the Nvidia 3D vision Kit can i use the optoma glasses to play in 3d using the optom HD 66 Projector, can nvidia 3d driver work with page flipping ?
[quote name='bullripper' post='1130716' date='Oct 14 2010, 11:22 AM']by a mile ............................................................
........
still need the nvidia emitter plugged in for it's 3d driver obviously but they worked straight out the box, simply looked at the screen.
Good bye IR you piece of crapola.
3D the way it was meant to be, no ghosting , no transmission issues and no yellow tint to picture (Nvidia!), better colours and contrast
And on plus side you can still use Nvidia with the Optoma's at same time.
Glad I didn't go x102's, lesser reviews and proprietry batteries ....
PS: My hack still lives with latest Nvidia drivers to get HD66 working.[/quote]
Man, if what you wrote is what i understand I will be very happy.
I recently bought an Optoma HD 66 projector and 4 Optoma Glasses ZD101 DLP Link and for my surprise, after installing nvidia 3d Driver, it asked for the 3d vision kit, the emitter.
I don´t have the 3d vision emitter nor the glasses. I thought, ingenously, they it all would work alltogether.
So, now I can´t play games in 3D, there is no driver, I think Iz3d doesn´t work since I tested it and couldn´t set it to page flipping, the method i think that dlp link glasses works.
My question is. If i buy the Nvidia 3D vision Kit can i use the optoma glasses to play in 3d using the optom HD 66 Projector, can nvidia 3d driver work with page flipping ?
still need the nvidia emitter plugged in for it's 3d driver obviously but they worked straight out the box, simply looked at the screen.
Good bye IR you piece of crapola.
3D the way it was meant to be, no ghosting , no transmission issues and no yellow tint to picture (Nvidia!), better colours and contrast
And on plus side you can still use Nvidia with the Optoma's at same time.
Glad I didn't go x102's, lesser reviews and proprietry batteries ....
PS: My hack still lives with latest Nvidia drivers to get HD66 working.
Man, if what you wrote is what i understand I will be very happy.
I recently bought an Optoma HD 66 projector and 4 Optoma Glasses ZD101 DLP Link and for my surprise, after installing nvidia 3d Driver, it asked for the 3d vision kit, the emitter.
I don´t have the 3d vision emitter nor the glasses. I thought, ingenously, they it all would work alltogether.
So, now I can´t play games in 3D, there is no driver, I think Iz3d doesn´t work since I tested it and couldn´t set it to page flipping, the method i think that dlp link glasses works.
My question is. If i buy the Nvidia 3D vision Kit can i use the optoma glasses to play in 3d using the optom HD 66 Projector, can nvidia 3d driver work with page flipping ?
Tritosine, I was speaking about LCD shutter glasses with DLP projectors and the way you were estimating quality from the specifications of the glasses.
The reference to polarised 3D projection was there only as a benchmark to compare against.
Tritosine, I was speaking about LCD shutter glasses with DLP projectors and the way you were estimating quality from the specifications of the glasses.
The reference to polarised 3D projection was there only as a benchmark to compare against.
Passive 3D forever
110" DIY dual-projection system
2x Epson EH-TW3500 (1080p) + Linear Polarizers (SPAR)
XtremScreen Daylight 2.0
VNS Geobox501 signal converter
Tritosine, I was speaking about LCD shutter glasses with DLP projectors and the way you were estimating quality from the specifications of the glasses.
The reference to polarised 3D projection was there only as a benchmark to compare against.
Tritosine, I was speaking about LCD shutter glasses with DLP projectors and the way you were estimating quality from the specifications of the glasses.
The reference to polarised 3D projection was there only as a benchmark to compare against.
Passive 3D forever
110" DIY dual-projection system
2x Epson EH-TW3500 (1080p) + Linear Polarizers (SPAR)
XtremScreen Daylight 2.0
VNS Geobox501 signal converter
[quote name='BlackSharkfr' post='1131329' date='Oct 15 2010, 09:09 PM']Tritosine, I was speaking about LCD shutter glasses with DLP projectors and the way you were estimating quality from the specifications of the glasses.
The reference to polarised 3D projection was there only as a benchmark to compare against.[/quote]
[quote]...and since glasses are made in volume ( ofcourse these DLP_Link glasses are outsourced & mass produced), [u][b]then manufacturers prefer to cut costs where possible[/b][/u], Im goin to settle for either hacked Sony glasses or RealD Ce4. I have no problem with IR, but dislike the white flash method.[/quote]
[quote name='BlackSharkfr' post='1131329' date='Oct 15 2010, 09:09 PM']Tritosine, I was speaking about LCD shutter glasses with DLP projectors and the way you were estimating quality from the specifications of the glasses.
The reference to polarised 3D projection was there only as a benchmark to compare against.
...and since glasses are made in volume ( ofcourse these DLP_Link glasses are outsourced & mass produced), then manufacturers prefer to cut costs where possible, Im goin to settle for either hacked Sony glasses or RealD Ce4. I have no problem with IR, but dislike the white flash method.
[quote name='BlackSharkfr' post='1131329' date='Oct 15 2010, 09:09 PM']Tritosine, I was speaking about LCD shutter glasses with DLP projectors and the way you were estimating quality from the specifications of the glasses.
The reference to polarised 3D projection was there only as a benchmark to compare against.[/quote]
[quote]...and since glasses are made in volume ( ofcourse these DLP_Link glasses are outsourced & mass produced), [u][b]then manufacturers prefer to cut costs where possible[/b][/u], Im goin to settle for either hacked Sony glasses or RealD Ce4. I have no problem with IR, but dislike the white flash method.[/quote]
[quote name='BlackSharkfr' post='1131329' date='Oct 15 2010, 09:09 PM']Tritosine, I was speaking about LCD shutter glasses with DLP projectors and the way you were estimating quality from the specifications of the glasses.
The reference to polarised 3D projection was there only as a benchmark to compare against.
...and since glasses are made in volume ( ofcourse these DLP_Link glasses are outsourced & mass produced), then manufacturers prefer to cut costs where possible, Im goin to settle for either hacked Sony glasses or RealD Ce4. I have no problem with IR, but dislike the white flash method.
When I use the optoma glasses with my Mitsubishi 60737
and put it in reverse mode, i do see 3D,
But i get strange color changes.
I there a way to get them to work right?
When I use the optoma glasses with my Mitsubishi 60737
and put it in reverse mode, i do see 3D,
But i get strange color changes.
I there a way to get them to work right?
You can't really use DLP_Link plus emitter simultaneously, because the nV glasses won't block the white flash of DLP_Link resulting in green shade all over the screen. You don't want that.
Quality:
DLP_Link manufacturers ( except RealD) , don't brag about their contrast ratio, transmittance numbers, I guess they have a reason.
x102 said to have 500:1 , and thats laughable, even if the transmittance is high.
nV said to have 2000:1 , with a transmittance of 40% , seems to be a good trade off, IDK if these numbers are true, 720p pj's have 1100 contrast, any room with even a little little bit of ambient light (~ candlelight) hard limits contrast to 800:1.
RealD Ce4, Ce5, said to have 5000:1, with transmittance of ~35%. You need a very very good display for these ones.
( projectiondesign , Mitsubishi Laservue)
I expect Bit Cauldron glasses to be of low contrast, high transmittance crop.[/quote]
Well, I'm using an Optoma hd66 with the nvision kit, and as you know, the Optoma goes dlp link on automatically when you put it at 1280x720 120hz, I don;t have any "green" problems, it even looks better than the Xpand x102 I had.
You can't really use DLP_Link plus emitter simultaneously, because the nV glasses won't block the white flash of DLP_Link resulting in green shade all over the screen. You don't want that.
Quality:
DLP_Link manufacturers ( except RealD) , don't brag about their contrast ratio, transmittance numbers, I guess they have a reason.
x102 said to have 500:1 , and thats laughable, even if the transmittance is high.
nV said to have 2000:1 , with a transmittance of 40% , seems to be a good trade off, IDK if these numbers are true, 720p pj's have 1100 contrast, any room with even a little little bit of ambient light (~ candlelight) hard limits contrast to 800:1.
RealD Ce4, Ce5, said to have 5000:1, with transmittance of ~35%. You need a very very good display for these ones.
( projectiondesign , Mitsubishi Laservue)
I expect Bit Cauldron glasses to be of low contrast, high transmittance crop.
Well, I'm using an Optoma hd66 with the nvision kit, and as you know, the Optoma goes dlp link on automatically when you put it at 1280x720 120hz, I don;t have any "green" problems, it even looks better than the Xpand x102 I had.
In the time domain, you perceive this white flash as greenish tint or something. Its definately there, and only the glasses can remove it.
I prefer IR , cause this looks like wasteful method of sync to me ( yup, you waste brightness) .
In the time domain, you perceive this white flash as greenish tint or something. Its definately there, and only the glasses can remove it.
I prefer IR , cause this looks like wasteful method of sync to me ( yup, you waste brightness) .
In the time domain, you perceive this white flash as greenish tint or something. Its definately there, and only the glasses can remove it.
I prefer IR , cause this looks like wasteful method of sync to me ( yup, you waste brightness) .
In the time domain, you perceive this white flash as greenish tint or something. Its definately there, and only the glasses can remove it.
I prefer IR , cause this looks like wasteful method of sync to me ( yup, you waste brightness) .
To me , it boils down to:
5000:1 = good quality linear polarizer (the best?)
2000:1 = acceptable
500:1 = mediocre.[/quote]
DLP isn't ghosting free by design, I've seen DLP presentations ghosting pretty bad.
On what basis do you judge quality on these contrast ratios ? What happens if it's low, where is the threshold in your mind between a product you'd buy and one you would not buy.
To me , it boils down to:
5000:1 = good quality linear polarizer (the best?)
2000:1 = acceptable
500:1 = mediocre.
DLP isn't ghosting free by design, I've seen DLP presentations ghosting pretty bad.
On what basis do you judge quality on these contrast ratios ? What happens if it's low, where is the threshold in your mind between a product you'd buy and one you would not buy.
Passive 3D forever
110" DIY dual-projection system
2x Epson EH-TW3500 (1080p) + Linear Polarizers (SPAR)
XtremScreen Daylight 2.0
VNS Geobox501 signal converter
To me , it boils down to:
5000:1 = good quality linear polarizer (the best?)
2000:1 = acceptable
500:1 = mediocre.[/quote]
DLP isn't ghosting free by design, I've seen DLP presentations ghosting pretty bad.
On what basis do you judge quality on these contrast ratios ? What happens if it's low, where is the threshold in your mind between a product you'd buy and one you would not buy.
To me , it boils down to:
5000:1 = good quality linear polarizer (the best?)
2000:1 = acceptable
500:1 = mediocre.
DLP isn't ghosting free by design, I've seen DLP presentations ghosting pretty bad.
On what basis do you judge quality on these contrast ratios ? What happens if it's low, where is the threshold in your mind between a product you'd buy and one you would not buy.
Passive 3D forever
110" DIY dual-projection system
2x Epson EH-TW3500 (1080p) + Linear Polarizers (SPAR)
XtremScreen Daylight 2.0
VNS Geobox501 signal converter
I wanted to buy myself linear polarizer sheets, to use for dual projector stereo, but ultimately decided I won't pursue it for now.
Anyway, looked around , and even if you don't buy boutique stuff, good quality linear polarizer is not cheap!
[url="http://www.apioptics.com/linear-polarizers-spec.html"]http://www.apioptics.com/linear-polarizers-spec.html[/url]
lowest transmittance, highest extinction sheet is the most expensive!
I wanted to buy myself linear polarizer sheets, to use for dual projector stereo, but ultimately decided I won't pursue it for now.
Anyway, looked around , and even if you don't buy boutique stuff, good quality linear polarizer is not cheap!
http://www.apioptics.com/linear-polarizers-spec.html
lowest transmittance, highest extinction sheet is the most expensive!
I wanted to buy myself linear polarizer sheets, to use for dual projector stereo, but ultimately decided I won't pursue it for now.
Anyway, looked around , and even if you don't buy boutique stuff, good quality linear polarizer is not cheap!
[url="http://www.apioptics.com/linear-polarizers-spec.html"]http://www.apioptics.com/linear-polarizers-spec.html[/url]
lowest transmittance, highest extinction sheet is the most expensive!
I wanted to buy myself linear polarizer sheets, to use for dual projector stereo, but ultimately decided I won't pursue it for now.
Anyway, looked around , and even if you don't buy boutique stuff, good quality linear polarizer is not cheap!
http://www.apioptics.com/linear-polarizers-spec.html
lowest transmittance, highest extinction sheet is the most expensive!
........
still need the nvidia emitter plugged in for it's 3d driver obviously but they worked straight out the box, simply looked at the screen.
Good bye IR you piece of crapola.
3D the way it was meant to be, no ghosting , no transmission issues and no yellow tint to picture (Nvidia!), better colours and contrast
And on plus side you can still use Nvidia with the Optoma's at same time.
Glad I didn't go x102's, lesser reviews and proprietry batteries ....
PS: My hack still lives with latest Nvidia drivers to get HD66 working.[/quote]
Man, if what you wrote is what i understand I will be very happy.
I recently bought an Optoma HD 66 projector and 4 Optoma Glasses ZD101 DLP Link and for my surprise, after installing nvidia 3d Driver, it asked for the 3d vision kit, the emitter.
I don´t have the 3d vision emitter nor the glasses. I thought, ingenously, they it all would work alltogether.
So, now I can´t play games in 3D, there is no driver, I think Iz3d doesn´t work since I tested it and couldn´t set it to page flipping, the method i think that dlp link glasses works.
My question is. If i buy the Nvidia 3D vision Kit can i use the optoma glasses to play in 3d using the optom HD 66 Projector, can nvidia 3d driver work with page flipping ?
If anybody could help me, i appreciate.
........
still need the nvidia emitter plugged in for it's 3d driver obviously but they worked straight out the box, simply looked at the screen.
Good bye IR you piece of crapola.
3D the way it was meant to be, no ghosting , no transmission issues and no yellow tint to picture (Nvidia!), better colours and contrast
And on plus side you can still use Nvidia with the Optoma's at same time.
Glad I didn't go x102's, lesser reviews and proprietry batteries ....
PS: My hack still lives with latest Nvidia drivers to get HD66 working.
Man, if what you wrote is what i understand I will be very happy.
I recently bought an Optoma HD 66 projector and 4 Optoma Glasses ZD101 DLP Link and for my surprise, after installing nvidia 3d Driver, it asked for the 3d vision kit, the emitter.
I don´t have the 3d vision emitter nor the glasses. I thought, ingenously, they it all would work alltogether.
So, now I can´t play games in 3D, there is no driver, I think Iz3d doesn´t work since I tested it and couldn´t set it to page flipping, the method i think that dlp link glasses works.
My question is. If i buy the Nvidia 3D vision Kit can i use the optoma glasses to play in 3d using the optom HD 66 Projector, can nvidia 3d driver work with page flipping ?
If anybody could help me, i appreciate.
........
still need the nvidia emitter plugged in for it's 3d driver obviously but they worked straight out the box, simply looked at the screen.
Good bye IR you piece of crapola.
3D the way it was meant to be, no ghosting , no transmission issues and no yellow tint to picture (Nvidia!), better colours and contrast
And on plus side you can still use Nvidia with the Optoma's at same time.
Glad I didn't go x102's, lesser reviews and proprietry batteries ....
PS: My hack still lives with latest Nvidia drivers to get HD66 working.[/quote]
Man, if what you wrote is what i understand I will be very happy.
I recently bought an Optoma HD 66 projector and 4 Optoma Glasses ZD101 DLP Link and for my surprise, after installing nvidia 3d Driver, it asked for the 3d vision kit, the emitter.
I don´t have the 3d vision emitter nor the glasses. I thought, ingenously, they it all would work alltogether.
So, now I can´t play games in 3D, there is no driver, I think Iz3d doesn´t work since I tested it and couldn´t set it to page flipping, the method i think that dlp link glasses works.
My question is. If i buy the Nvidia 3D vision Kit can i use the optoma glasses to play in 3d using the optom HD 66 Projector, can nvidia 3d driver work with page flipping ?
If anybody could help me, i appreciate.
........
still need the nvidia emitter plugged in for it's 3d driver obviously but they worked straight out the box, simply looked at the screen.
Good bye IR you piece of crapola.
3D the way it was meant to be, no ghosting , no transmission issues and no yellow tint to picture (Nvidia!), better colours and contrast
And on plus side you can still use Nvidia with the Optoma's at same time.
Glad I didn't go x102's, lesser reviews and proprietry batteries ....
PS: My hack still lives with latest Nvidia drivers to get HD66 working.
Man, if what you wrote is what i understand I will be very happy.
I recently bought an Optoma HD 66 projector and 4 Optoma Glasses ZD101 DLP Link and for my surprise, after installing nvidia 3d Driver, it asked for the 3d vision kit, the emitter.
I don´t have the 3d vision emitter nor the glasses. I thought, ingenously, they it all would work alltogether.
So, now I can´t play games in 3D, there is no driver, I think Iz3d doesn´t work since I tested it and couldn´t set it to page flipping, the method i think that dlp link glasses works.
My question is. If i buy the Nvidia 3D vision Kit can i use the optoma glasses to play in 3d using the optom HD 66 Projector, can nvidia 3d driver work with page flipping ?
If anybody could help me, i appreciate.
The reference to polarised 3D projection was there only as a benchmark to compare against.
The reference to polarised 3D projection was there only as a benchmark to compare against.
Passive 3D forever
110" DIY dual-projection system
2x Epson EH-TW3500 (1080p) + Linear Polarizers (SPAR)
XtremScreen Daylight 2.0
VNS Geobox501 signal converter
The reference to polarised 3D projection was there only as a benchmark to compare against.
The reference to polarised 3D projection was there only as a benchmark to compare against.
Passive 3D forever
110" DIY dual-projection system
2x Epson EH-TW3500 (1080p) + Linear Polarizers (SPAR)
XtremScreen Daylight 2.0
VNS Geobox501 signal converter
The reference to polarised 3D projection was there only as a benchmark to compare against.[/quote]
[quote]...and since glasses are made in volume ( ofcourse these DLP_Link glasses are outsourced & mass produced), [u][b]then manufacturers prefer to cut costs where possible[/b][/u], Im goin to settle for either hacked Sony glasses or RealD Ce4. I have no problem with IR, but dislike the white flash method.[/quote]
I dont want cheap polarizer in my glasses!
The reference to polarised 3D projection was there only as a benchmark to compare against.
I dont want cheap polarizer in my glasses!
The reference to polarised 3D projection was there only as a benchmark to compare against.[/quote]
[quote]...and since glasses are made in volume ( ofcourse these DLP_Link glasses are outsourced & mass produced), [u][b]then manufacturers prefer to cut costs where possible[/b][/u], Im goin to settle for either hacked Sony glasses or RealD Ce4. I have no problem with IR, but dislike the white flash method.[/quote]
I dont want cheap polarizer in my glasses!
The reference to polarised 3D projection was there only as a benchmark to compare against.
I dont want cheap polarizer in my glasses!
and put it in reverse mode, i do see 3D,
But i get strange color changes.
I there a way to get them to work right?
and put it in reverse mode, i do see 3D,
But i get strange color changes.
I there a way to get them to work right?
and put it in reverse mode, i do see 3D,
But i get strange color changes.
I there a way to get them to work right?
and put it in reverse mode, i do see 3D,
But i get strange color changes.
I there a way to get them to work right?