I know this was briefly mentioned in the other thread, but has anyone who already has the full 3d kit (including emitter) played around with the emulator to try and suppress the red warning message in checkerboard?
I've got a samsumg 3d tv and the emitter, and if there's an easy way to get rid of the message then I don't see why I shouldn't use the emulator.
I don't really want to have to hack around with windows too much, but I wouldn't mind having to unplug the real emitter and run a batch file if it's as simple as that.
I know this was briefly mentioned in the other thread, but has anyone who already has the full 3d kit (including emitter) played around with the emulator to try and suppress the red warning message in checkerboard?
I've got a samsumg 3d tv and the emitter, and if there's an easy way to get rid of the message then I don't see why I shouldn't use the emulator.
I don't really want to have to hack around with windows too much, but I wouldn't mind having to unplug the real emitter and run a batch file if it's as simple as that.
GTX 1070 SLI, I7-6700k ~ 4.4Ghz, 3x BenQ XL2420T, BenQ TK800, LG 55EG960V (3D OLED), Samsung 850 EVO SSD, Crucial M4 SSD, 3D vision kit, Xpand x104 glasses, Corsair HX1000i, Win 10 pro 64/Win 7 64https://www.3dmark.com/fs/9529310
I built a comp for a buddy who owns the Mitsubishi 3DA-1000 kit and a Mitsubishi 65C9 DLP for playing PC, PS3, and Xbox 360 games in 3D (along with blu-ray on PC/PS3), and I sold him my 3D Vision IR Emitter for this comp, and bought myself another 3D Vision kit.
On his setup, this is how it work:
The [real] 3D Vision IR emitter is installed without plugging it into the sync port on the back of Mits DLP TV, and then also installed the IR emitter Emulator which suppresses the message entirely (it knows you have another method for syncing). It'll show two 3D Vision IR emitters in "Device and Printers," but it doesn't matter. Technically the emulator will do the job of getting checkerboard output, but the only caviat being is that it is not "powered " until you login (if you have it setup in Startup folder) or until you run it manually. This means that [b]3D Vision Discover[/b] will be [b]the default[/b] every single time you do a restart or cold boot. A real 3D Vision IR emitter ensures that a Mitsu DLP is always the default display after 3D Stereo setup has been run. Of course there are other reasons to do it this way that I won't go into here.
The real IR emitter is simply plugged into the PC's USB port and the sync port on the IR emitter is not connected, as the Mitsubishi 3DA-1000 kit handles all the syncing. The green light will not come on, on the real 3D Vision IR emitter, when stereo is enabled or when a game is started. It simply doesn't need to since it isn't doing any syncing. However, the depth wheel and the button still function normally in 3D even though the light is not on.
The Mitsubishi 3DA-1 kit will work too if you want to use DLP Link Glasses, instead of Mits' glasses in the 3DA-1000 kit. Sometimes you have to use reverse stereo in your 3D option in your TV's menu when using DLP Link Glasses. You just have to try and see.
This was a necessary means of implementation because my friend wants a total inclusive 3D setup to play PC games and console games with just ONE KIND of glasses without having to plug in a different device into the Mits' sync port on the back of the TV or having to use two different sets of glasses (that's not economical). This became a one stop solution.
If you are using a newer HDMI 1.4a 3DTV, you just have to go straight to the TV and/or through your Audio Receiver, and probably just install roller's inf mod for HDMI 1.3a checkerboard to force the display to detect 3D Vision and follow the rest of the steps above as they relate to your setup.
I suspect in the future that such inventive workarounds won't need to be necessary when a) 3DTV Play supports checkerboard, and b) 3DTV Play allows the use of the Mitsubishi 3DA-1000 and 3DA-1 kits on Mitsubishi DLP HDMI 1.3a TVs that do NOT want to use proprietary Nvidia glasses that won't work with PS3 and Xbox 360 games and/or folks that already invested money into the Mits glasses or DLP-Link glasses for those reasons. There's just no reason to buy multiple kits and multiple type of glasses. The only people that really need the full 3D Vision kit (emitter + glasses) are for people that will use their DLP TV/DLP Projector [i]solely as a PC setup[/i] (and of course 3D Vision Monitor Display users). As soon as you start adding other 3D devices into the system, a one stop solution becomes problematic (at least right now). Until Nvidia has a completely flexible solution, they need to offer the 3D Vision IR Emitter as a seperate purchase just like they do with the 3D Vision glasses. There are other reasons for doing this as well, obtaining replacement parts, etc. For my particular case, I had to fork out the extra dough for a full kit (well at least it is cheaper now), when all I needed now was just an IR emitter (I'm one of those folks who is a PC Setup only; I could careless about Xbox and PS3 3D gaming, as they can't compare to full 1080p/frame stereo gaming). Oh well at least the purchase obtained an extra pair of glasses out of the deal.
I built a comp for a buddy who owns the Mitsubishi 3DA-1000 kit and a Mitsubishi 65C9 DLP for playing PC, PS3, and Xbox 360 games in 3D (along with blu-ray on PC/PS3), and I sold him my 3D Vision IR Emitter for this comp, and bought myself another 3D Vision kit.
On his setup, this is how it work:
The [real] 3D Vision IR emitter is installed without plugging it into the sync port on the back of Mits DLP TV, and then also installed the IR emitter Emulator which suppresses the message entirely (it knows you have another method for syncing). It'll show two 3D Vision IR emitters in "Device and Printers," but it doesn't matter. Technically the emulator will do the job of getting checkerboard output, but the only caviat being is that it is not "powered " until you login (if you have it setup in Startup folder) or until you run it manually. This means that 3D Vision Discover will be the default every single time you do a restart or cold boot. A real 3D Vision IR emitter ensures that a Mitsu DLP is always the default display after 3D Stereo setup has been run. Of course there are other reasons to do it this way that I won't go into here.
The real IR emitter is simply plugged into the PC's USB port and the sync port on the IR emitter is not connected, as the Mitsubishi 3DA-1000 kit handles all the syncing. The green light will not come on, on the real 3D Vision IR emitter, when stereo is enabled or when a game is started. It simply doesn't need to since it isn't doing any syncing. However, the depth wheel and the button still function normally in 3D even though the light is not on.
The Mitsubishi 3DA-1 kit will work too if you want to use DLP Link Glasses, instead of Mits' glasses in the 3DA-1000 kit. Sometimes you have to use reverse stereo in your 3D option in your TV's menu when using DLP Link Glasses. You just have to try and see.
This was a necessary means of implementation because my friend wants a total inclusive 3D setup to play PC games and console games with just ONE KIND of glasses without having to plug in a different device into the Mits' sync port on the back of the TV or having to use two different sets of glasses (that's not economical). This became a one stop solution.
If you are using a newer HDMI 1.4a 3DTV, you just have to go straight to the TV and/or through your Audio Receiver, and probably just install roller's inf mod for HDMI 1.3a checkerboard to force the display to detect 3D Vision and follow the rest of the steps above as they relate to your setup.
I suspect in the future that such inventive workarounds won't need to be necessary when a) 3DTV Play supports checkerboard, and b) 3DTV Play allows the use of the Mitsubishi 3DA-1000 and 3DA-1 kits on Mitsubishi DLP HDMI 1.3a TVs that do NOT want to use proprietary Nvidia glasses that won't work with PS3 and Xbox 360 games and/or folks that already invested money into the Mits glasses or DLP-Link glasses for those reasons. There's just no reason to buy multiple kits and multiple type of glasses. The only people that really need the full 3D Vision kit (emitter + glasses) are for people that will use their DLP TV/DLP Projector solely as a PC setup (and of course 3D Vision Monitor Display users). As soon as you start adding other 3D devices into the system, a one stop solution becomes problematic (at least right now). Until Nvidia has a completely flexible solution, they need to offer the 3D Vision IR Emitter as a seperate purchase just like they do with the 3D Vision glasses. There are other reasons for doing this as well, obtaining replacement parts, etc. For my particular case, I had to fork out the extra dough for a full kit (well at least it is cheaper now), when all I needed now was just an IR emitter (I'm one of those folks who is a PC Setup only; I could careless about Xbox and PS3 3D gaming, as they can't compare to full 1080p/frame stereo gaming). Oh well at least the purchase obtained an extra pair of glasses out of the deal.
I know this was briefly mentioned in the other thread, but has anyone who already has the full 3d kit (including emitter) played around with the emulator to try and suppress the red warning message in checkerboard?
I've got a samsumg 3d tv and the emitter, and if there's an easy way to get rid of the message then I don't see why I shouldn't use the emulator.
I don't really want to have to hack around with windows too much, but I wouldn't mind having to unplug the real emitter and run a batch file if it's as simple as that.
I know this was briefly mentioned in the other thread, but has anyone who already has the full 3d kit (including emitter) played around with the emulator to try and suppress the red warning message in checkerboard?
I've got a samsumg 3d tv and the emitter, and if there's an easy way to get rid of the message then I don't see why I shouldn't use the emulator.
I don't really want to have to hack around with windows too much, but I wouldn't mind having to unplug the real emitter and run a batch file if it's as simple as that.
GTX 1070 SLI, I7-6700k ~ 4.4Ghz, 3x BenQ XL2420T, BenQ TK800, LG 55EG960V (3D OLED), Samsung 850 EVO SSD, Crucial M4 SSD, 3D vision kit, Xpand x104 glasses, Corsair HX1000i, Win 10 pro 64/Win 7 64https://www.3dmark.com/fs/9529310
On his setup, this is how it work:
The [real] 3D Vision IR emitter is installed without plugging it into the sync port on the back of Mits DLP TV, and then also installed the IR emitter Emulator which suppresses the message entirely (it knows you have another method for syncing). It'll show two 3D Vision IR emitters in "Device and Printers," but it doesn't matter. Technically the emulator will do the job of getting checkerboard output, but the only caviat being is that it is not "powered " until you login (if you have it setup in Startup folder) or until you run it manually. This means that [b]3D Vision Discover[/b] will be [b]the default[/b] every single time you do a restart or cold boot. A real 3D Vision IR emitter ensures that a Mitsu DLP is always the default display after 3D Stereo setup has been run. Of course there are other reasons to do it this way that I won't go into here.
The real IR emitter is simply plugged into the PC's USB port and the sync port on the IR emitter is not connected, as the Mitsubishi 3DA-1000 kit handles all the syncing. The green light will not come on, on the real 3D Vision IR emitter, when stereo is enabled or when a game is started. It simply doesn't need to since it isn't doing any syncing. However, the depth wheel and the button still function normally in 3D even though the light is not on.
The Mitsubishi 3DA-1 kit will work too if you want to use DLP Link Glasses, instead of Mits' glasses in the 3DA-1000 kit. Sometimes you have to use reverse stereo in your 3D option in your TV's menu when using DLP Link Glasses. You just have to try and see.
This was a necessary means of implementation because my friend wants a total inclusive 3D setup to play PC games and console games with just ONE KIND of glasses without having to plug in a different device into the Mits' sync port on the back of the TV or having to use two different sets of glasses (that's not economical). This became a one stop solution.
If you are using a newer HDMI 1.4a 3DTV, you just have to go straight to the TV and/or through your Audio Receiver, and probably just install roller's inf mod for HDMI 1.3a checkerboard to force the display to detect 3D Vision and follow the rest of the steps above as they relate to your setup.
I suspect in the future that such inventive workarounds won't need to be necessary when a) 3DTV Play supports checkerboard, and b) 3DTV Play allows the use of the Mitsubishi 3DA-1000 and 3DA-1 kits on Mitsubishi DLP HDMI 1.3a TVs that do NOT want to use proprietary Nvidia glasses that won't work with PS3 and Xbox 360 games and/or folks that already invested money into the Mits glasses or DLP-Link glasses for those reasons. There's just no reason to buy multiple kits and multiple type of glasses. The only people that really need the full 3D Vision kit (emitter + glasses) are for people that will use their DLP TV/DLP Projector [i]solely as a PC setup[/i] (and of course 3D Vision Monitor Display users). As soon as you start adding other 3D devices into the system, a one stop solution becomes problematic (at least right now). Until Nvidia has a completely flexible solution, they need to offer the 3D Vision IR Emitter as a seperate purchase just like they do with the 3D Vision glasses. There are other reasons for doing this as well, obtaining replacement parts, etc. For my particular case, I had to fork out the extra dough for a full kit (well at least it is cheaper now), when all I needed now was just an IR emitter (I'm one of those folks who is a PC Setup only; I could careless about Xbox and PS3 3D gaming, as they can't compare to full 1080p/frame stereo gaming). Oh well at least the purchase obtained an extra pair of glasses out of the deal.
On his setup, this is how it work:
The [real] 3D Vision IR emitter is installed without plugging it into the sync port on the back of Mits DLP TV, and then also installed the IR emitter Emulator which suppresses the message entirely (it knows you have another method for syncing). It'll show two 3D Vision IR emitters in "Device and Printers," but it doesn't matter. Technically the emulator will do the job of getting checkerboard output, but the only caviat being is that it is not "powered " until you login (if you have it setup in Startup folder) or until you run it manually. This means that 3D Vision Discover will be the default every single time you do a restart or cold boot. A real 3D Vision IR emitter ensures that a Mitsu DLP is always the default display after 3D Stereo setup has been run. Of course there are other reasons to do it this way that I won't go into here.
The real IR emitter is simply plugged into the PC's USB port and the sync port on the IR emitter is not connected, as the Mitsubishi 3DA-1000 kit handles all the syncing. The green light will not come on, on the real 3D Vision IR emitter, when stereo is enabled or when a game is started. It simply doesn't need to since it isn't doing any syncing. However, the depth wheel and the button still function normally in 3D even though the light is not on.
The Mitsubishi 3DA-1 kit will work too if you want to use DLP Link Glasses, instead of Mits' glasses in the 3DA-1000 kit. Sometimes you have to use reverse stereo in your 3D option in your TV's menu when using DLP Link Glasses. You just have to try and see.
This was a necessary means of implementation because my friend wants a total inclusive 3D setup to play PC games and console games with just ONE KIND of glasses without having to plug in a different device into the Mits' sync port on the back of the TV or having to use two different sets of glasses (that's not economical). This became a one stop solution.
If you are using a newer HDMI 1.4a 3DTV, you just have to go straight to the TV and/or through your Audio Receiver, and probably just install roller's inf mod for HDMI 1.3a checkerboard to force the display to detect 3D Vision and follow the rest of the steps above as they relate to your setup.
I suspect in the future that such inventive workarounds won't need to be necessary when a) 3DTV Play supports checkerboard, and b) 3DTV Play allows the use of the Mitsubishi 3DA-1000 and 3DA-1 kits on Mitsubishi DLP HDMI 1.3a TVs that do NOT want to use proprietary Nvidia glasses that won't work with PS3 and Xbox 360 games and/or folks that already invested money into the Mits glasses or DLP-Link glasses for those reasons. There's just no reason to buy multiple kits and multiple type of glasses. The only people that really need the full 3D Vision kit (emitter + glasses) are for people that will use their DLP TV/DLP Projector solely as a PC setup (and of course 3D Vision Monitor Display users). As soon as you start adding other 3D devices into the system, a one stop solution becomes problematic (at least right now). Until Nvidia has a completely flexible solution, they need to offer the 3D Vision IR Emitter as a seperate purchase just like they do with the 3D Vision glasses. There are other reasons for doing this as well, obtaining replacement parts, etc. For my particular case, I had to fork out the extra dough for a full kit (well at least it is cheaper now), when all I needed now was just an IR emitter (I'm one of those folks who is a PC Setup only; I could careless about Xbox and PS3 3D gaming, as they can't compare to full 1080p/frame stereo gaming). Oh well at least the purchase obtained an extra pair of glasses out of the deal.
GTX 1070 SLI, I7-6700k ~ 4.4Ghz, 3x BenQ XL2420T, BenQ TK800, LG 55EG960V (3D OLED), Samsung 850 EVO SSD, Crucial M4 SSD, 3D vision kit, Xpand x104 glasses, Corsair HX1000i, Win 10 pro 64/Win 7 64https://www.3dmark.com/fs/9529310