Passive Polarized 3D Rig Vs. 3D DLP Projection
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A few answers seemed wrong.


[quote]Good luck, but consider reading and understanding my last post. Even if your LCD has the right polarization, you're far from being ready with your setup.
[/quote]

What is "right" polarisation? Almost all LCD projectors are fine. You make the issue too big.

[quote]My hint: Stay away from anything "LCD" (projector and monitor), because LCD causes problems. Sell your LCD and buy a DLP, that's better IMHO
[/quote]

Nonsense.. that guy is saying he already has a LCD and wants to cut down on costs. LCD almost always works fine.. and you don't need to be a rocket scientist to figure outhow to mount the polarizer. (just rotate untill no color shift.. big deal)

[quote]if polarisation of all 3 colors are at 45deg then you are able to use them even without any polarization filters
[/quote]

This will lead to alot of ghosting. Due to the optical elements behind the polarisation filters any 3 LCD projector has, the extinction rate is really bad. You should in any case add a polarisation filter after the lense because it improves the stereo experience considerably. Even if they would be aligned.

[quote]If you want a simple setup use DLP projectors for passive stereo 3D
[/quote]

For almost all projectors, it is not harder nor simpler to use LCD or DLP. For almost all LCD projectors on the market, the actual placement of the polarisation filter is spot on exactly what you would want it to be, to make it work with standard polarisation glasses.




To answer the topic starter:

[quote]Can someone explain exactly what a polarized 3D setup is, and then compare it to a regular DLP stereo setup. I'm trying to get an idea of costs involved with both and what sort of preparations I might have to take for a huge 3D stereo display.
[/quote]

Likay already gave a nice rundown of things but I think he didn't mention costs..
Expect to pay around 2500 $ or euros for a basic version.

Costs on a row:

-2 projectors, 1000$ each (720p, nice cinematic ones, so you can use 1 for normal movie viewing too for instance. 16:9 aspect is nice to game in)

-Filter and glasses, 100$ max. Glasses can be had real cheap, like 2$ a piece and you can get by very simple filters too (40$ for a 30 cm by 20 cm piece) I wouldn't go for glass ones.. they cos a whole lot more and do *nothing* with regard to the 3D experience. There are some heat considerations but all is easily solvable with cheaper material

-Screen, 400$. I got mine from Silverfrabic.com in germany and compared it with many other samples. Price/performance ratio for that one is rock solid.

=2500$

Want to spice up your efficiency? Want to go where no DLP projector can follow in terms of light transmitted? Check the special filters for LCD projectors, also by Silverfabric and get 78% transmission filters instead of 40% for normal ones.

Likay had them already, I just got mine and the image is a whole lot brighter now.


But the main point: do not get into Stereo 3D passive polarized if you are low on cash, or hasty. Read all you can find and get educated about it. And be prepared to work with old drivers and figure out ways to get games to run. No game out there has a S-3D option so it takes effort sometimes, and most new ones don't work yet.

Just 1 link, being my passive polarized guide on MTBS3D.com, it contains a few good links to great reads too:

[url="http://mtbs3d.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=509"]mtbs3d passive guide[/url]
A few answers seemed wrong.





Good luck, but consider reading and understanding my last post. Even if your LCD has the right polarization, you're far from being ready with your setup.





What is "right" polarisation? Almost all LCD projectors are fine. You make the issue too big.



My hint: Stay away from anything "LCD" (projector and monitor), because LCD causes problems. Sell your LCD and buy a DLP, that's better IMHO





Nonsense.. that guy is saying he already has a LCD and wants to cut down on costs. LCD almost always works fine.. and you don't need to be a rocket scientist to figure outhow to mount the polarizer. (just rotate untill no color shift.. big deal)



if polarisation of all 3 colors are at 45deg then you are able to use them even without any polarization filters





This will lead to alot of ghosting. Due to the optical elements behind the polarisation filters any 3 LCD projector has, the extinction rate is really bad. You should in any case add a polarisation filter after the lense because it improves the stereo experience considerably. Even if they would be aligned.



If you want a simple setup use DLP projectors for passive stereo 3D





For almost all projectors, it is not harder nor simpler to use LCD or DLP. For almost all LCD projectors on the market, the actual placement of the polarisation filter is spot on exactly what you would want it to be, to make it work with standard polarisation glasses.









To answer the topic starter:



Can someone explain exactly what a polarized 3D setup is, and then compare it to a regular DLP stereo setup. I'm trying to get an idea of costs involved with both and what sort of preparations I might have to take for a huge 3D stereo display.





Likay already gave a nice rundown of things but I think he didn't mention costs..

Expect to pay around 2500 $ or euros for a basic version.



Costs on a row:



-2 projectors, 1000$ each (720p, nice cinematic ones, so you can use 1 for normal movie viewing too for instance. 16:9 aspect is nice to game in)



-Filter and glasses, 100$ max. Glasses can be had real cheap, like 2$ a piece and you can get by very simple filters too (40$ for a 30 cm by 20 cm piece) I wouldn't go for glass ones.. they cos a whole lot more and do *nothing* with regard to the 3D experience. There are some heat considerations but all is easily solvable with cheaper material



-Screen, 400$. I got mine from Silverfrabic.com in germany and compared it with many other samples. Price/performance ratio for that one is rock solid.



=2500$



Want to spice up your efficiency? Want to go where no DLP projector can follow in terms of light transmitted? Check the special filters for LCD projectors, also by Silverfabric and get 78% transmission filters instead of 40% for normal ones.



Likay had them already, I just got mine and the image is a whole lot brighter now.





But the main point: do not get into Stereo 3D passive polarized if you are low on cash, or hasty. Read all you can find and get educated about it. And be prepared to work with old drivers and figure out ways to get games to run. No game out there has a S-3D option so it takes effort sometimes, and most new ones don't work yet.



Just 1 link, being my passive polarized guide on MTBS3D.com, it contains a few good links to great reads too:



mtbs3d passive guide

#16
Posted 11/25/2007 01:03 AM   
[quote] Nonsense.. [/quote]
Come on...

[quote] Almost all LCD projectors are fine. [/quote]
[quote] For almost all LCD projectors on the market, the actual placement of the polarisation filter is spot on exactly what you would want it to be, to make it work with standard polarisation glasses. [/quote]
How do you know that?? How many have you tested yet? Do you have a link to prove that?

[quote] you don't need to be a rocket scientist to figure outhow to mount the polarizer. [/quote]
You know, if it can be done at all with the Toshiba projector, he can figure it out. But what if it can't be done with his Toshiba?
And even if it can be done he has to put it all together and get it working which isn't a simple task! You know that, you said something similar:

[quote] But the main point: do not get into Stereo 3D passive polarized if you are low on cash, or hasty. Read all you can find and get educated about it. [/quote]
I fully agree with that.

M.
Nonsense..


Come on...



Almost all LCD projectors are fine.


For almost all LCD projectors on the market, the actual placement of the polarisation filter is spot on exactly what you would want it to be, to make it work with standard polarisation glasses.


How do you know that?? How many have you tested yet? Do you have a link to prove that?



you don't need to be a rocket scientist to figure outhow to mount the polarizer.


You know, if it can be done at all with the Toshiba projector, he can figure it out. But what if it can't be done with his Toshiba?

And even if it can be done he has to put it all together and get it working which isn't a simple task! You know that, you said something similar:



But the main point: do not get into Stereo 3D passive polarized if you are low on cash, or hasty. Read all you can find and get educated about it.


I fully agree with that.



M.

#17
Posted 11/25/2007 11:50 AM   
[quote name='MarkraM' date='Nov 25 2007, 03:50 AM']Come on...
How do you know that?? How many have you tested yet? Do you have a link to prove that?
You know, if it can be done at all with the Toshiba projector, he can figure it out. But what if it can't be done with his Toshiba?
And even if it can be done he has to put it all together and get it working which isn't a simple task! You know that, you said something similar:
I fully agree with that.

M.
[right][snapback]284305[/snapback][/right]
[/quote]


About the testing: almost all projectors these days are 3 LCD projectors, one LCD per color. The way they are combined into one is by a x-cube. It would be rather odd (if not impossible) to place this x-cube under a 45 degree angle. If you place it normally, the colors come out either horizontally or vertically polarized. Which is fine.

I haven't tested this seriously, but tried 3 types of projectors (3 LCD, for 1 LCD it is not important how it comes out and a wave retarder can be used) up till now.



If this testing is too difficult, someone who wants to save cash shouldn't be doing passive polarized. You only need time to read, and +- 10$ for a bit of polarizer material. That's it.If you got cash to burn, sure. Dump the LCD, get 2 DLP's and then still have issues setting it all up.

I am just saying, this shouldn't be a hurdle. Especially if someone is trying to work with stuff lying around already. A 10$ investment + time is all that is needed. And sure, ask around and get help about it. If this bump is too much.. then passive is too much.


I am sorry if I responded a bit bluntly though.... but it is a bit often noted that LCD doesn't work. Where in fact, the most perfect passive polarized setup is with LCD (with those nifty special polarizers to get great light output.. always an issue).
[quote name='MarkraM' date='Nov 25 2007, 03:50 AM']Come on...

How do you know that?? How many have you tested yet? Do you have a link to prove that?

You know, if it can be done at all with the Toshiba projector, he can figure it out. But what if it can't be done with his Toshiba?

And even if it can be done he has to put it all together and get it working which isn't a simple task! You know that, you said something similar:

I fully agree with that.



M.

[snapback]284305[/snapback]








About the testing: almost all projectors these days are 3 LCD projectors, one LCD per color. The way they are combined into one is by a x-cube. It would be rather odd (if not impossible) to place this x-cube under a 45 degree angle. If you place it normally, the colors come out either horizontally or vertically polarized. Which is fine.



I haven't tested this seriously, but tried 3 types of projectors (3 LCD, for 1 LCD it is not important how it comes out and a wave retarder can be used) up till now.







If this testing is too difficult, someone who wants to save cash shouldn't be doing passive polarized. You only need time to read, and +- 10$ for a bit of polarizer material. That's it.If you got cash to burn, sure. Dump the LCD, get 2 DLP's and then still have issues setting it all up.



I am just saying, this shouldn't be a hurdle. Especially if someone is trying to work with stuff lying around already. A 10$ investment + time is all that is needed. And sure, ask around and get help about it. If this bump is too much.. then passive is too much.





I am sorry if I responded a bit bluntly though.... but it is a bit often noted that LCD doesn't work. Where in fact, the most perfect passive polarized setup is with LCD (with those nifty special polarizers to get great light output.. always an issue).

#18
Posted 11/25/2007 10:22 PM   
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