I want to get a new 3d tv but I want to get as close to 1080p/60fps gaming as possible. 720p gaming just isn't as good. It seems that Samsung still supports the checkerboard format in their new plasmas, but it's unclear to me if the 3d vision drivers are smart enough to allow me to use this mode with them. If there's a workaround to fool the drivers I'd be ok with that too. Does anyone have any experience with this?
I want to get a new 3d tv but I want to get as close to 1080p/60fps gaming as possible. 720p gaming just isn't as good. It seems that Samsung still supports the checkerboard format in their new plasmas, but it's unclear to me if the 3d vision drivers are smart enough to allow me to use this mode with them. If there's a workaround to fool the drivers I'd be ok with that too. Does anyone have any experience with this?
Glad you asked. DEFINITELY purchase either a Samsung HDTV (prefered) or at least a Mitsubishi. All other brands don't do checkerboard so you'll be stuck with 1280x720.
Here's the deal: all HDTVs have single link type A HDMI inputs which have insufficient bandwidth for 1920x1080 framepacking mode at 60 frames per eye (120Hz refresh). All makers have announced that they will never upgrade to dual link...not now, not ever. That makes it critically important to buy a Samsung which has the next best thing, 1920x1080 checkerboard.
As to your question, Nvidia has deliberately boobey trapped the drivers by disallowing checkerboard if the setup detects a HDMI1.4 input. If HDMI1.3 is detected, 3D Vision is automatically invoked so you get checkerboard. If HDMI1.4 is detected, 3DTV Play is automatically invoked so you get 1280x720 res. The workaround is two parts:
1. Fool the drivers into detecting a HDMI1.3 connection by inserting a Gefen DVI Detective module between the VGA card and the HDMI 1.4 input.
2. Eliminate the "stereo signal not found" message that results from using an HDMI1.4 connection under 3D Vision.
#2 above is necessary because once in 3D Vision setup, the drivers expect to see a 3D sync signal present at the nvidia ir emmiter. But of course all HDMI1.4 HDTVs (all 2010 models) lack this signal, so there will be nothing plugged into the 3D sync port of the nvidia emmiter, and the software plasters this false error message all over the screen, and it doesn't go away. So the user must supply a fake sync signal. The signal's AC characteristics are loose because the signal doesn't do anything, it's just needs to be detectable as some kind of squarewave.
It's OKay if you don't happen to have a +5V/120Hz squarewave generator lying around, Radio Shack has the parts to build one for about $10 USD total. The kit has only 6 parts, so it's not complicated. I will give all necessary details upon request, but all I did was wikipedia "555 timer" and all info was there to build the circuit in astable mode, including the equation to find the RC values for the target 120Hz output. Once constructed, connect +5V and ground to your circuit and run the same +5V and ground, plus the output signal (3 wires total) to the sleeve, tip, and ring of the 3/32 mini din jack on the nvidia emmiter input ( the round hole). That's it. You are now in full 3D Vision/checkerboard mode with no error messages. You can now use all 3D Vision driver packages, CD1.44 being the latest, so you've got the most current game support. Without these hardware hacks, you are limited to drivers 2.58 (CD1.33) which has no support for games after MArch 2010.
There are only two more small things to be aware of:
1. The Samsung HDTVs have checkerboard, but they are grayed out by default. Start by enabling these modes then be sure to connect to the HDMI1/DVI input on the Samsung I/O panel. This is the only input that does checkerboard.
2. The Nvidia emmiter will be transmitting a sync signal which will interfere with the sync signal transmitted from the Samsung emmiter. This will cause the Samsung glasses to lose sync, so you must position the nvidia module so that it does not have line of sight to your glasses.
Glad you asked. DEFINITELY purchase either a Samsung HDTV (prefered) or at least a Mitsubishi. All other brands don't do checkerboard so you'll be stuck with 1280x720.
Here's the deal: all HDTVs have single link type A HDMI inputs which have insufficient bandwidth for 1920x1080 framepacking mode at 60 frames per eye (120Hz refresh). All makers have announced that they will never upgrade to dual link...not now, not ever. That makes it critically important to buy a Samsung which has the next best thing, 1920x1080 checkerboard.
As to your question, Nvidia has deliberately boobey trapped the drivers by disallowing checkerboard if the setup detects a HDMI1.4 input. If HDMI1.3 is detected, 3D Vision is automatically invoked so you get checkerboard. If HDMI1.4 is detected, 3DTV Play is automatically invoked so you get 1280x720 res. The workaround is two parts:
1. Fool the drivers into detecting a HDMI1.3 connection by inserting a Gefen DVI Detective module between the VGA card and the HDMI 1.4 input.
2. Eliminate the "stereo signal not found" message that results from using an HDMI1.4 connection under 3D Vision.
#2 above is necessary because once in 3D Vision setup, the drivers expect to see a 3D sync signal present at the nvidia ir emmiter. But of course all HDMI1.4 HDTVs (all 2010 models) lack this signal, so there will be nothing plugged into the 3D sync port of the nvidia emmiter, and the software plasters this false error message all over the screen, and it doesn't go away. So the user must supply a fake sync signal. The signal's AC characteristics are loose because the signal doesn't do anything, it's just needs to be detectable as some kind of squarewave.
It's OKay if you don't happen to have a +5V/120Hz squarewave generator lying around, Radio Shack has the parts to build one for about $10 USD total. The kit has only 6 parts, so it's not complicated. I will give all necessary details upon request, but all I did was wikipedia "555 timer" and all info was there to build the circuit in astable mode, including the equation to find the RC values for the target 120Hz output. Once constructed, connect +5V and ground to your circuit and run the same +5V and ground, plus the output signal (3 wires total) to the sleeve, tip, and ring of the 3/32 mini din jack on the nvidia emmiter input ( the round hole). That's it. You are now in full 3D Vision/checkerboard mode with no error messages. You can now use all 3D Vision driver packages, CD1.44 being the latest, so you've got the most current game support. Without these hardware hacks, you are limited to drivers 2.58 (CD1.33) which has no support for games after MArch 2010.
There are only two more small things to be aware of:
1. The Samsung HDTVs have checkerboard, but they are grayed out by default. Start by enabling these modes then be sure to connect to the HDMI1/DVI input on the Samsung I/O panel. This is the only input that does checkerboard.
2. The Nvidia emmiter will be transmitting a sync signal which will interfere with the sync signal transmitted from the Samsung emmiter. This will cause the Samsung glasses to lose sync, so you must position the nvidia module so that it does not have line of sight to your glasses.
[quote name='roller11' date='18 January 2011 - 11:31 AM' timestamp='1295379065' post='1179165']
Glad you asked. DEFINITELY purchase either a Samsung HDTV (prefered) or at least a Mitsubishi. All other brands don't do checkerboard so you'll be stuck with 1280x720.
Here's the deal: all HDTVs have single link type A HDMI inputs which have insufficient bandwidth for 1920x1080 framepacking mode at 60 frames per eye (120Hz refresh). All makers have announced that they will never upgrade to dual link...not now, not ever. That makes it critically important to buy a Samsung which has the next best thing, 1920x1080 checkerboard.
As to your question, Nvidia has deliberately boobey trapped the drivers by disallowing checkerboard if the setup detects a HDMI1.4 input. If HDMI1.3 is detected, 3D Vision is automatically invoked so you get checkerboard. If HDMI1.4 is detected, 3DTV Play is automatically invoked so you get 1280x720 res. The workaround is two parts:
1. Fool the drivers into detecting a HDMI1.3 connection by inserting a Gefen DVI Detective module between the VGA card and the HDMI 1.4 input.
2. Eliminate the "stereo signal not found" message that results from using an HDMI1.4 connection under 3D Vision.
#2 above is necessary because once in 3D Vision setup, the drivers expect to see a 3D sync signal present at the nvidia ir emmiter. But of course all HDMI1.4 HDTVs (all 2010 models) lack this signal, so there will be nothing plugged into the 3D sync port of the nvidia emmiter, and the software plasters this false error message all over the screen, and it doesn't go away. So the user must supply a fake sync signal. The signal's AC characteristics are loose because the signal doesn't do anything, it's just needs to be detectable as some kind of squarewave.
It's OKay if you don't happen to have a +5V/120Hz squarewave generator lying around, Radio Shack has the parts to build one for about $10 USD total. The kit has only 6 parts, so it's not complicated. I will give all necessary details upon request, but all I did was wikipedia "555 timer" and all info was there to build the circuit in astable mode, including the equation to find the RC values for the target 120Hz output. Once constructed, connect +5V and ground to your circuit and run the same +5V and ground, plus the output signal (3 wires total) to the sleeve, tip, and ring of the 3/32 mini din jack on the nvidia emmiter input ( the round hole). That's it. You are now in full 3D Vision/checkerboard mode with no error messages. You can now use all 3D Vision driver packages, CD1.44 being the latest, so you've got the most current game support. Without these hardware hacks, you are limited to drivers 2.58 (CD1.33) which has no support for games after MArch 2010.
There are only two more small things to be aware of:
1. The Samsung HDTVs have checkerboard, but they are grayed out by default. Start by enabling these modes then be sure to connect to the HDMI1/DVI input on the Samsung I/O panel. This is the only input that does checkerboard.
2. The Nvidia emmiter will be transmitting a sync signal which will interfere with the sync signal transmitted from the Samsung emmiter. This will cause the Samsung glasses to lose sync, so you must position the nvidia module so that it does not have line of sight to your glasses.
[/quote]
Awesome roller, thanks for the info. That's super super helpful. Can I use the HDMI detective since my gtx 295 has an hdmi out? Or do I need to use the DVI detective?
I have pretty good experience with EE stuff so I can build a generator myself. But I may just order the kit off sparkfun and be done with it.
[quote name='roller11' date='18 January 2011 - 11:31 AM' timestamp='1295379065' post='1179165']
Glad you asked. DEFINITELY purchase either a Samsung HDTV (prefered) or at least a Mitsubishi. All other brands don't do checkerboard so you'll be stuck with 1280x720.
Here's the deal: all HDTVs have single link type A HDMI inputs which have insufficient bandwidth for 1920x1080 framepacking mode at 60 frames per eye (120Hz refresh). All makers have announced that they will never upgrade to dual link...not now, not ever. That makes it critically important to buy a Samsung which has the next best thing, 1920x1080 checkerboard.
As to your question, Nvidia has deliberately boobey trapped the drivers by disallowing checkerboard if the setup detects a HDMI1.4 input. If HDMI1.3 is detected, 3D Vision is automatically invoked so you get checkerboard. If HDMI1.4 is detected, 3DTV Play is automatically invoked so you get 1280x720 res. The workaround is two parts:
1. Fool the drivers into detecting a HDMI1.3 connection by inserting a Gefen DVI Detective module between the VGA card and the HDMI 1.4 input.
2. Eliminate the "stereo signal not found" message that results from using an HDMI1.4 connection under 3D Vision.
#2 above is necessary because once in 3D Vision setup, the drivers expect to see a 3D sync signal present at the nvidia ir emmiter. But of course all HDMI1.4 HDTVs (all 2010 models) lack this signal, so there will be nothing plugged into the 3D sync port of the nvidia emmiter, and the software plasters this false error message all over the screen, and it doesn't go away. So the user must supply a fake sync signal. The signal's AC characteristics are loose because the signal doesn't do anything, it's just needs to be detectable as some kind of squarewave.
It's OKay if you don't happen to have a +5V/120Hz squarewave generator lying around, Radio Shack has the parts to build one for about $10 USD total. The kit has only 6 parts, so it's not complicated. I will give all necessary details upon request, but all I did was wikipedia "555 timer" and all info was there to build the circuit in astable mode, including the equation to find the RC values for the target 120Hz output. Once constructed, connect +5V and ground to your circuit and run the same +5V and ground, plus the output signal (3 wires total) to the sleeve, tip, and ring of the 3/32 mini din jack on the nvidia emmiter input ( the round hole). That's it. You are now in full 3D Vision/checkerboard mode with no error messages. You can now use all 3D Vision driver packages, CD1.44 being the latest, so you've got the most current game support. Without these hardware hacks, you are limited to drivers 2.58 (CD1.33) which has no support for games after MArch 2010.
There are only two more small things to be aware of:
1. The Samsung HDTVs have checkerboard, but they are grayed out by default. Start by enabling these modes then be sure to connect to the HDMI1/DVI input on the Samsung I/O panel. This is the only input that does checkerboard.
2. The Nvidia emmiter will be transmitting a sync signal which will interfere with the sync signal transmitted from the Samsung emmiter. This will cause the Samsung glasses to lose sync, so you must position the nvidia module so that it does not have line of sight to your glasses.
Awesome roller, thanks for the info. That's super super helpful. Can I use the HDMI detective since my gtx 295 has an hdmi out? Or do I need to use the DVI detective?
I have pretty good experience with EE stuff so I can build a generator myself. But I may just order the kit off sparkfun and be done with it.
[quote name='rkuo' date='18 January 2011 - 03:35 PM' timestamp='1295390122' post='1179309']
Awesome roller, thanks for the info. That's super super helpful. Can I use the HDMI detective since my gtx 295 has an hdmi out? Or do I need to use the DVI detective?
I have pretty good experience with EE stuff so I can build a generator myself. But I may just order the kit off sparkfun and be done with it.
[/quote]
Dunno, I haven't actually done the DVI Detective hack, but Nobsi has. Gefen makes many different models, so I'd advise buying from Amazon due to their return policy, in case your first attempt doesn't work.
I did build my own oscillator from a schematic on wikipedia. My first attempt was 320Hz output frequency (according to the formula, I don't have a scope.) Didn't work, so I changed R and C to 100Hz theoretical, works perfectly for a couple weeks now, no dropouts whatsoever.
How much is sparkfun charging for the kit?
[quote name='rkuo' date='18 January 2011 - 03:35 PM' timestamp='1295390122' post='1179309']
Awesome roller, thanks for the info. That's super super helpful. Can I use the HDMI detective since my gtx 295 has an hdmi out? Or do I need to use the DVI detective?
I have pretty good experience with EE stuff so I can build a generator myself. But I may just order the kit off sparkfun and be done with it.
Dunno, I haven't actually done the DVI Detective hack, but Nobsi has. Gefen makes many different models, so I'd advise buying from Amazon due to their return policy, in case your first attempt doesn't work.
I did build my own oscillator from a schematic on wikipedia. My first attempt was 320Hz output frequency (according to the formula, I don't have a scope.) Didn't work, so I changed R and C to 100Hz theoretical, works perfectly for a couple weeks now, no dropouts whatsoever.
[quote name='roller11' date='18 January 2011 - 03:06 PM' timestamp='1295391966' post='1179346']
Dunno, I haven't actually done the DVI Detective hack, but Nobsi has. Gefen makes many different models, so I'd advise buying from Amazon due to their return policy, in case your first attempt doesn't work.
I did build my own oscillator from a schematic on wikipedia. My first attempt was 320Hz output frequency (according to the formula, I don't have a scope.) Didn't work, so I changed R and C to 100Hz theoretical, works perfectly for a couple weeks now, no dropouts whatsoever.
How much is sparkfun charging for the kit?
[/quote]
Oh if you didn't do the DVI detective thing then what are you doing?
[quote name='roller11' date='18 January 2011 - 03:06 PM' timestamp='1295391966' post='1179346']
Dunno, I haven't actually done the DVI Detective hack, but Nobsi has. Gefen makes many different models, so I'd advise buying from Amazon due to their return policy, in case your first attempt doesn't work.
I did build my own oscillator from a schematic on wikipedia. My first attempt was 320Hz output frequency (according to the formula, I don't have a scope.) Didn't work, so I changed R and C to 100Hz theoretical, works perfectly for a couple weeks now, no dropouts whatsoever.
How much is sparkfun charging for the kit?
Oh if you didn't do the DVI detective thing then what are you doing?
[quote name='rkuo' date='18 January 2011 - 06:05 PM' timestamp='1295399128' post='1179415']
Oh if you didn't do the DVI detective thing then what are you doing?
It's not as cheap as building it from scratch but it should be a lot cleaner.
[/quote]
I'm using the 258.xx drivers (CD1.33). They are pre-3DTV Play so they setup under 3D Vision. But I still have to supress the "no stereo signal found" signal by using my home made squarewave generator.
My next game will be CoD Black Ops so at that time I'll have to do something cause 258.xx won't work.
So basically, he sends all the parts for the generator and you assemble it yourself. Then you must get the signal to the emmiter plus wire in +5V and ground to both the circuit board and the emmiter.
It's not as cheap as building it from scratch but it should be a lot cleaner.
I'm using the 258.xx drivers (CD1.33). They are pre-3DTV Play so they setup under 3D Vision. But I still have to supress the "no stereo signal found" signal by using my home made squarewave generator.
My next game will be CoD Black Ops so at that time I'll have to do something cause 258.xx won't work.
So basically, he sends all the parts for the generator and you assemble it yourself. Then you must get the signal to the emmiter plus wire in +5V and ground to both the circuit board and the emmiter.
Here's the deal: all HDTVs have single link type A HDMI inputs which have insufficient bandwidth for 1920x1080 framepacking mode at 60 frames per eye (120Hz refresh). All makers have announced that they will never upgrade to dual link...not now, not ever. That makes it critically important to buy a Samsung which has the next best thing, 1920x1080 checkerboard.
As to your question, Nvidia has deliberately boobey trapped the drivers by disallowing checkerboard if the setup detects a HDMI1.4 input. If HDMI1.3 is detected, 3D Vision is automatically invoked so you get checkerboard. If HDMI1.4 is detected, 3DTV Play is automatically invoked so you get 1280x720 res. The workaround is two parts:
1. Fool the drivers into detecting a HDMI1.3 connection by inserting a Gefen DVI Detective module between the VGA card and the HDMI 1.4 input.
2. Eliminate the "stereo signal not found" message that results from using an HDMI1.4 connection under 3D Vision.
#2 above is necessary because once in 3D Vision setup, the drivers expect to see a 3D sync signal present at the nvidia ir emmiter. But of course all HDMI1.4 HDTVs (all 2010 models) lack this signal, so there will be nothing plugged into the 3D sync port of the nvidia emmiter, and the software plasters this false error message all over the screen, and it doesn't go away. So the user must supply a fake sync signal. The signal's AC characteristics are loose because the signal doesn't do anything, it's just needs to be detectable as some kind of squarewave.
It's OKay if you don't happen to have a +5V/120Hz squarewave generator lying around, Radio Shack has the parts to build one for about $10 USD total. The kit has only 6 parts, so it's not complicated. I will give all necessary details upon request, but all I did was wikipedia "555 timer" and all info was there to build the circuit in astable mode, including the equation to find the RC values for the target 120Hz output. Once constructed, connect +5V and ground to your circuit and run the same +5V and ground, plus the output signal (3 wires total) to the sleeve, tip, and ring of the 3/32 mini din jack on the nvidia emmiter input ( the round hole). That's it. You are now in full 3D Vision/checkerboard mode with no error messages. You can now use all 3D Vision driver packages, CD1.44 being the latest, so you've got the most current game support. Without these hardware hacks, you are limited to drivers 2.58 (CD1.33) which has no support for games after MArch 2010.
There are only two more small things to be aware of:
1. The Samsung HDTVs have checkerboard, but they are grayed out by default. Start by enabling these modes then be sure to connect to the HDMI1/DVI input on the Samsung I/O panel. This is the only input that does checkerboard.
2. The Nvidia emmiter will be transmitting a sync signal which will interfere with the sync signal transmitted from the Samsung emmiter. This will cause the Samsung glasses to lose sync, so you must position the nvidia module so that it does not have line of sight to your glasses.
Here's the deal: all HDTVs have single link type A HDMI inputs which have insufficient bandwidth for 1920x1080 framepacking mode at 60 frames per eye (120Hz refresh). All makers have announced that they will never upgrade to dual link...not now, not ever. That makes it critically important to buy a Samsung which has the next best thing, 1920x1080 checkerboard.
As to your question, Nvidia has deliberately boobey trapped the drivers by disallowing checkerboard if the setup detects a HDMI1.4 input. If HDMI1.3 is detected, 3D Vision is automatically invoked so you get checkerboard. If HDMI1.4 is detected, 3DTV Play is automatically invoked so you get 1280x720 res. The workaround is two parts:
1. Fool the drivers into detecting a HDMI1.3 connection by inserting a Gefen DVI Detective module between the VGA card and the HDMI 1.4 input.
2. Eliminate the "stereo signal not found" message that results from using an HDMI1.4 connection under 3D Vision.
#2 above is necessary because once in 3D Vision setup, the drivers expect to see a 3D sync signal present at the nvidia ir emmiter. But of course all HDMI1.4 HDTVs (all 2010 models) lack this signal, so there will be nothing plugged into the 3D sync port of the nvidia emmiter, and the software plasters this false error message all over the screen, and it doesn't go away. So the user must supply a fake sync signal. The signal's AC characteristics are loose because the signal doesn't do anything, it's just needs to be detectable as some kind of squarewave.
It's OKay if you don't happen to have a +5V/120Hz squarewave generator lying around, Radio Shack has the parts to build one for about $10 USD total. The kit has only 6 parts, so it's not complicated. I will give all necessary details upon request, but all I did was wikipedia "555 timer" and all info was there to build the circuit in astable mode, including the equation to find the RC values for the target 120Hz output. Once constructed, connect +5V and ground to your circuit and run the same +5V and ground, plus the output signal (3 wires total) to the sleeve, tip, and ring of the 3/32 mini din jack on the nvidia emmiter input ( the round hole). That's it. You are now in full 3D Vision/checkerboard mode with no error messages. You can now use all 3D Vision driver packages, CD1.44 being the latest, so you've got the most current game support. Without these hardware hacks, you are limited to drivers 2.58 (CD1.33) which has no support for games after MArch 2010.
There are only two more small things to be aware of:
1. The Samsung HDTVs have checkerboard, but they are grayed out by default. Start by enabling these modes then be sure to connect to the HDMI1/DVI input on the Samsung I/O panel. This is the only input that does checkerboard.
2. The Nvidia emmiter will be transmitting a sync signal which will interfere with the sync signal transmitted from the Samsung emmiter. This will cause the Samsung glasses to lose sync, so you must position the nvidia module so that it does not have line of sight to your glasses.
Glad you asked. DEFINITELY purchase either a Samsung HDTV (prefered) or at least a Mitsubishi. All other brands don't do checkerboard so you'll be stuck with 1280x720.
Here's the deal: all HDTVs have single link type A HDMI inputs which have insufficient bandwidth for 1920x1080 framepacking mode at 60 frames per eye (120Hz refresh). All makers have announced that they will never upgrade to dual link...not now, not ever. That makes it critically important to buy a Samsung which has the next best thing, 1920x1080 checkerboard.
As to your question, Nvidia has deliberately boobey trapped the drivers by disallowing checkerboard if the setup detects a HDMI1.4 input. If HDMI1.3 is detected, 3D Vision is automatically invoked so you get checkerboard. If HDMI1.4 is detected, 3DTV Play is automatically invoked so you get 1280x720 res. The workaround is two parts:
1. Fool the drivers into detecting a HDMI1.3 connection by inserting a Gefen DVI Detective module between the VGA card and the HDMI 1.4 input.
2. Eliminate the "stereo signal not found" message that results from using an HDMI1.4 connection under 3D Vision.
#2 above is necessary because once in 3D Vision setup, the drivers expect to see a 3D sync signal present at the nvidia ir emmiter. But of course all HDMI1.4 HDTVs (all 2010 models) lack this signal, so there will be nothing plugged into the 3D sync port of the nvidia emmiter, and the software plasters this false error message all over the screen, and it doesn't go away. So the user must supply a fake sync signal. The signal's AC characteristics are loose because the signal doesn't do anything, it's just needs to be detectable as some kind of squarewave.
It's OKay if you don't happen to have a +5V/120Hz squarewave generator lying around, Radio Shack has the parts to build one for about $10 USD total. The kit has only 6 parts, so it's not complicated. I will give all necessary details upon request, but all I did was wikipedia "555 timer" and all info was there to build the circuit in astable mode, including the equation to find the RC values for the target 120Hz output. Once constructed, connect +5V and ground to your circuit and run the same +5V and ground, plus the output signal (3 wires total) to the sleeve, tip, and ring of the 3/32 mini din jack on the nvidia emmiter input ( the round hole). That's it. You are now in full 3D Vision/checkerboard mode with no error messages. You can now use all 3D Vision driver packages, CD1.44 being the latest, so you've got the most current game support. Without these hardware hacks, you are limited to drivers 2.58 (CD1.33) which has no support for games after MArch 2010.
There are only two more small things to be aware of:
1. The Samsung HDTVs have checkerboard, but they are grayed out by default. Start by enabling these modes then be sure to connect to the HDMI1/DVI input on the Samsung I/O panel. This is the only input that does checkerboard.
2. The Nvidia emmiter will be transmitting a sync signal which will interfere with the sync signal transmitted from the Samsung emmiter. This will cause the Samsung glasses to lose sync, so you must position the nvidia module so that it does not have line of sight to your glasses.
[/quote]
Awesome roller, thanks for the info. That's super super helpful. Can I use the HDMI detective since my gtx 295 has an hdmi out? Or do I need to use the DVI detective?
I have pretty good experience with EE stuff so I can build a generator myself. But I may just order the kit off sparkfun and be done with it.
Glad you asked. DEFINITELY purchase either a Samsung HDTV (prefered) or at least a Mitsubishi. All other brands don't do checkerboard so you'll be stuck with 1280x720.
Here's the deal: all HDTVs have single link type A HDMI inputs which have insufficient bandwidth for 1920x1080 framepacking mode at 60 frames per eye (120Hz refresh). All makers have announced that they will never upgrade to dual link...not now, not ever. That makes it critically important to buy a Samsung which has the next best thing, 1920x1080 checkerboard.
As to your question, Nvidia has deliberately boobey trapped the drivers by disallowing checkerboard if the setup detects a HDMI1.4 input. If HDMI1.3 is detected, 3D Vision is automatically invoked so you get checkerboard. If HDMI1.4 is detected, 3DTV Play is automatically invoked so you get 1280x720 res. The workaround is two parts:
1. Fool the drivers into detecting a HDMI1.3 connection by inserting a Gefen DVI Detective module between the VGA card and the HDMI 1.4 input.
2. Eliminate the "stereo signal not found" message that results from using an HDMI1.4 connection under 3D Vision.
#2 above is necessary because once in 3D Vision setup, the drivers expect to see a 3D sync signal present at the nvidia ir emmiter. But of course all HDMI1.4 HDTVs (all 2010 models) lack this signal, so there will be nothing plugged into the 3D sync port of the nvidia emmiter, and the software plasters this false error message all over the screen, and it doesn't go away. So the user must supply a fake sync signal. The signal's AC characteristics are loose because the signal doesn't do anything, it's just needs to be detectable as some kind of squarewave.
It's OKay if you don't happen to have a +5V/120Hz squarewave generator lying around, Radio Shack has the parts to build one for about $10 USD total. The kit has only 6 parts, so it's not complicated. I will give all necessary details upon request, but all I did was wikipedia "555 timer" and all info was there to build the circuit in astable mode, including the equation to find the RC values for the target 120Hz output. Once constructed, connect +5V and ground to your circuit and run the same +5V and ground, plus the output signal (3 wires total) to the sleeve, tip, and ring of the 3/32 mini din jack on the nvidia emmiter input ( the round hole). That's it. You are now in full 3D Vision/checkerboard mode with no error messages. You can now use all 3D Vision driver packages, CD1.44 being the latest, so you've got the most current game support. Without these hardware hacks, you are limited to drivers 2.58 (CD1.33) which has no support for games after MArch 2010.
There are only two more small things to be aware of:
1. The Samsung HDTVs have checkerboard, but they are grayed out by default. Start by enabling these modes then be sure to connect to the HDMI1/DVI input on the Samsung I/O panel. This is the only input that does checkerboard.
2. The Nvidia emmiter will be transmitting a sync signal which will interfere with the sync signal transmitted from the Samsung emmiter. This will cause the Samsung glasses to lose sync, so you must position the nvidia module so that it does not have line of sight to your glasses.
Awesome roller, thanks for the info. That's super super helpful. Can I use the HDMI detective since my gtx 295 has an hdmi out? Or do I need to use the DVI detective?
I have pretty good experience with EE stuff so I can build a generator myself. But I may just order the kit off sparkfun and be done with it.
Awesome roller, thanks for the info. That's super super helpful. Can I use the HDMI detective since my gtx 295 has an hdmi out? Or do I need to use the DVI detective?
I have pretty good experience with EE stuff so I can build a generator myself. But I may just order the kit off sparkfun and be done with it.
[/quote]
Dunno, I haven't actually done the DVI Detective hack, but Nobsi has. Gefen makes many different models, so I'd advise buying from Amazon due to their return policy, in case your first attempt doesn't work.
I did build my own oscillator from a schematic on wikipedia. My first attempt was 320Hz output frequency (according to the formula, I don't have a scope.) Didn't work, so I changed R and C to 100Hz theoretical, works perfectly for a couple weeks now, no dropouts whatsoever.
How much is sparkfun charging for the kit?
Awesome roller, thanks for the info. That's super super helpful. Can I use the HDMI detective since my gtx 295 has an hdmi out? Or do I need to use the DVI detective?
I have pretty good experience with EE stuff so I can build a generator myself. But I may just order the kit off sparkfun and be done with it.
Dunno, I haven't actually done the DVI Detective hack, but Nobsi has. Gefen makes many different models, so I'd advise buying from Amazon due to their return policy, in case your first attempt doesn't work.
I did build my own oscillator from a schematic on wikipedia. My first attempt was 320Hz output frequency (according to the formula, I don't have a scope.) Didn't work, so I changed R and C to 100Hz theoretical, works perfectly for a couple weeks now, no dropouts whatsoever.
How much is sparkfun charging for the kit?
Dunno, I haven't actually done the DVI Detective hack, but Nobsi has. Gefen makes many different models, so I'd advise buying from Amazon due to their return policy, in case your first attempt doesn't work.
I did build my own oscillator from a schematic on wikipedia. My first attempt was 320Hz output frequency (according to the formula, I don't have a scope.) Didn't work, so I changed R and C to 100Hz theoretical, works perfectly for a couple weeks now, no dropouts whatsoever.
How much is sparkfun charging for the kit?
[/quote]
Oh if you didn't do the DVI detective thing then what are you doing?
Sparkfun charges 35 bucks. http://www.sparkfun.com/products/10015
It's not as cheap as building it from scratch but it should be a lot cleaner.
Dunno, I haven't actually done the DVI Detective hack, but Nobsi has. Gefen makes many different models, so I'd advise buying from Amazon due to their return policy, in case your first attempt doesn't work.
I did build my own oscillator from a schematic on wikipedia. My first attempt was 320Hz output frequency (according to the formula, I don't have a scope.) Didn't work, so I changed R and C to 100Hz theoretical, works perfectly for a couple weeks now, no dropouts whatsoever.
How much is sparkfun charging for the kit?
Oh if you didn't do the DVI detective thing then what are you doing?
Sparkfun charges 35 bucks. http://www.sparkfun.com/products/10015
It's not as cheap as building it from scratch but it should be a lot cleaner.
Oh if you didn't do the DVI detective thing then what are you doing?
Sparkfun charges 35 bucks. http://www.sparkfun.com/products/10015
It's not as cheap as building it from scratch but it should be a lot cleaner.
[/quote]
I'm using the 258.xx drivers (CD1.33). They are pre-3DTV Play so they setup under 3D Vision. But I still have to supress the "no stereo signal found" signal by using my home made squarewave generator.
My next game will be CoD Black Ops so at that time I'll have to do something cause 258.xx won't work.
So basically, he sends all the parts for the generator and you assemble it yourself. Then you must get the signal to the emmiter plus wire in +5V and ground to both the circuit board and the emmiter.
Oh if you didn't do the DVI detective thing then what are you doing?
Sparkfun charges 35 bucks. http://www.sparkfun.com/products/10015
It's not as cheap as building it from scratch but it should be a lot cleaner.
I'm using the 258.xx drivers (CD1.33). They are pre-3DTV Play so they setup under 3D Vision. But I still have to supress the "no stereo signal found" signal by using my home made squarewave generator.
My next game will be CoD Black Ops so at that time I'll have to do something cause 258.xx won't work.
So basically, he sends all the parts for the generator and you assemble it yourself. Then you must get the signal to the emmiter plus wire in +5V and ground to both the circuit board and the emmiter.