Using NVIDIA Brightness, Contrast, Gamma to enhance visibility in games. Will this help you? vx2268w
I have:

[b]VX2268WM monitor[/b] with the following settings in DVI mode.
50% brightness
80% contrast

[b][size="4"]NVIDIA Control Panel [/size][/b]

I'm curious if anyone else is using this as I am? It helps a lot improving visibility in games that are just too dark. This part of the NVIDIA Control Panel is my best friend. I have different brightness, contrast and gamma settings for each game I play. When I'm browsing the internet, looking at images or any general desktop use my settings are like this. I'm sure I could tweak more but i'm happy where it's all at. [b]The point is that you can tweak if games are too dark.[/b]

[img]http://img143.imageshack.us/img143/4069/nv2f.jpg[/img]

[size="3"]When I play Mass Effect 2[/size]

Monitor kicks to 100% brightness

[u]NVIDIA Control Panel[/u]
Brightness: +45%
Contrast: +45%
Gamma: 1.60

[i](Looks so much better since ME2 is pretty dark when it first starts)[/i]

[size="3"]When I play Mass Effect 1 & Dragon Age[/size]

Monitor kicks to 100% brightness

[u]NVIDIA Control Panel[/u]
Brightness: +35%
Contrast: +35%
Gamma: 1.35

These are not settings I recommend anyone to use since all monitors are different, but it gives you an example of how I use it to achieve better results depending on what game I'm playing.

[size="4"][b]In Game Gamma[/b][/size]

I'm not sure why but this bleeds out all the color from the game. I try not to use in game gamma at all and just leave it at default. I get better results with the control in the nvidia control panel.

Anyone else have different experiences or different methods? I'm curious what other people do to optimize a game if it's too dark or too bright, etc.
I have:



VX2268WM monitor with the following settings in DVI mode.

50% brightness

80% contrast



NVIDIA Control Panel



I'm curious if anyone else is using this as I am? It helps a lot improving visibility in games that are just too dark. This part of the NVIDIA Control Panel is my best friend. I have different brightness, contrast and gamma settings for each game I play. When I'm browsing the internet, looking at images or any general desktop use my settings are like this. I'm sure I could tweak more but i'm happy where it's all at. The point is that you can tweak if games are too dark.



Image



When I play Mass Effect 2



Monitor kicks to 100% brightness



NVIDIA Control Panel

Brightness: +45%

Contrast: +45%

Gamma: 1.60



(Looks so much better since ME2 is pretty dark when it first starts)



When I play Mass Effect 1 & Dragon Age



Monitor kicks to 100% brightness



NVIDIA Control Panel

Brightness: +35%

Contrast: +35%

Gamma: 1.35



These are not settings I recommend anyone to use since all monitors are different, but it gives you an example of how I use it to achieve better results depending on what game I'm playing.



In Game Gamma



I'm not sure why but this bleeds out all the color from the game. I try not to use in game gamma at all and just leave it at default. I get better results with the control in the nvidia control panel.



Anyone else have different experiences or different methods? I'm curious what other people do to optimize a game if it's too dark or too bright, etc.

#1
Posted 03/19/2011 03:59 PM   
Oh yeah, i've been using the desktop color settings since I got the 3d vision, but for crosstalk reducing reasons, not so much for brightness. For my 2233rz, I have gamma about 1.2, bright at 50, and contrast at 40 percent on average. I do set it different for different games.
I find that if I make the contrast look a little grey-er, It reduces crosstalk quite significantly. But that also can depend on the game. Some games can utilize a nice high contrast without crosstalk. I'm sure the better the monitor the less one would have to make changes. 2233rz is first gen 120hz LCD, I never expected miracles LOL.
But, by the time I'm ready to buy another monitor, 5th gen better be crosstalk free! /happy.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':happy:' />
Oh yeah, i've been using the desktop color settings since I got the 3d vision, but for crosstalk reducing reasons, not so much for brightness. For my 2233rz, I have gamma about 1.2, bright at 50, and contrast at 40 percent on average. I do set it different for different games.

I find that if I make the contrast look a little grey-er, It reduces crosstalk quite significantly. But that also can depend on the game. Some games can utilize a nice high contrast without crosstalk. I'm sure the better the monitor the less one would have to make changes. 2233rz is first gen 120hz LCD, I never expected miracles LOL.

But, by the time I'm ready to buy another monitor, 5th gen better be crosstalk free! /happy.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':happy:' />

AsRock X58 Extreme6 mobo
Intel Core-i7 950 @ 4ghz
12gb Corsair Dominator DDR3 1600
ASUS DirectCU II GTX 780 3gb
Corsair TX 950w PSU
NZXT Phantom Red/Black Case
3d Vision 1 w/ Samsung 2233rz Monitor
3d Vision 2 w/ ASUS VG278HE Monitor

#2
Posted 03/19/2011 05:21 PM   
I had similar results when gaming with the old school drivers with e-dims and crt. Gamma affects darker regions first and increasing gamma helps improving visibility in those but make the image look "washed out". It's "almost" like decreasing contrast+increasing brightness. I recall i usually increased gamma a little (1.15 or something), decreased contrast "a tad" and increasing the brightness "a tad". Unfortunately i don't remember what figure i used for brightness/contrast. I usually did this to see at least something in very dark games...

The principle using shutterglasses and monitor eats a lot of light because:
1: First min 55% is gone through the glasses polarization. The polarizationloss can be decreased using already polarized displays like lcd's.
2: Sometimes with slow reactiontimes of the displays a lower duty cycle (shutterglasses on-time) must be used to decrease crosstalk due to timing.
3: The eyes have to share the remaining light.
Add all these parameters up and you'll end up with a poor transmissionrate.

Dlp's and crt's have quite quick responcetimes (crt's suffers a little from phosphorus afterglow) and can be used with close to 100% duty cycle (with this i mean that each shutterlense is open 50% of the time). Lcd's are already polarized but instead rectiontimes are poor and forces lower duty cycles. One advantage with shutters is that polarization of the glasses eats away min 55% of ambient light. One other advatage is biological: Less light means that eyes compensate for this by opening up the iris more thus making the image brighter.
The best thing when using dark displays/dark stereoscopy solutions is darkening the room as much as possible.
I had similar results when gaming with the old school drivers with e-dims and crt. Gamma affects darker regions first and increasing gamma helps improving visibility in those but make the image look "washed out". It's "almost" like decreasing contrast+increasing brightness. I recall i usually increased gamma a little (1.15 or something), decreased contrast "a tad" and increasing the brightness "a tad". Unfortunately i don't remember what figure i used for brightness/contrast. I usually did this to see at least something in very dark games...



The principle using shutterglasses and monitor eats a lot of light because:

1: First min 55% is gone through the glasses polarization. The polarizationloss can be decreased using already polarized displays like lcd's.

2: Sometimes with slow reactiontimes of the displays a lower duty cycle (shutterglasses on-time) must be used to decrease crosstalk due to timing.

3: The eyes have to share the remaining light.

Add all these parameters up and you'll end up with a poor transmissionrate.



Dlp's and crt's have quite quick responcetimes (crt's suffers a little from phosphorus afterglow) and can be used with close to 100% duty cycle (with this i mean that each shutterlense is open 50% of the time). Lcd's are already polarized but instead rectiontimes are poor and forces lower duty cycles. One advantage with shutters is that polarization of the glasses eats away min 55% of ambient light. One other advatage is biological: Less light means that eyes compensate for this by opening up the iris more thus making the image brighter.

The best thing when using dark displays/dark stereoscopy solutions is darkening the room as much as possible.

Image

Mb: Asus P5W DH Deluxe

Cpu: C2D E6600

Gb: Nvidia 7900GT + 8800GTX

3D:100" passive projector polarized setup + 22" IZ3D

Stereodrivers: Iz3d & Tridef ignition and nvidia old school.

#3
Posted 03/19/2011 05:26 PM   
[quote](with this i mean that each shutterlense is open 50% of the time).[/quote]

neither CRT or DLP does that. Actually IDK if any display does that right now.

CRT has 1.5 ms hold time, that is 1/6 of a frame, and DLP has about 1/3, 1/2 .

They don't do it with DLP because rainbowing would be more apparent ( that is unnoticable right now) .
(with this i mean that each shutterlense is open 50% of the time).




neither CRT or DLP does that. Actually IDK if any display does that right now.



CRT has 1.5 ms hold time, that is 1/6 of a frame, and DLP has about 1/3, 1/2 .



They don't do it with DLP because rainbowing would be more apparent ( that is unnoticable right now) .

#4
Posted 03/19/2011 07:45 PM   
[quote name='tritosine' date='19 March 2011 - 08:45 PM' timestamp='1300563933' post='1210123']
neither CRT or DLP does that. Actually IDK if any display does that right now.

CRT has 1.5 ms hold time, that is 1/6 of a frame, and DLP has about 1/3, 1/2 .

They don't do it with DLP because rainbowing would be more apparent ( that is unnoticable right now) .
[/quote]Note that i did say "close to". /wink.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=';)' />
[quote name='tritosine' date='19 March 2011 - 08:45 PM' timestamp='1300563933' post='1210123']

neither CRT or DLP does that. Actually IDK if any display does that right now.



CRT has 1.5 ms hold time, that is 1/6 of a frame, and DLP has about 1/3, 1/2 .



They don't do it with DLP because rainbowing would be more apparent ( that is unnoticable right now) .

Note that i did say "close to". /wink.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=';)' />

Image

Mb: Asus P5W DH Deluxe

Cpu: C2D E6600

Gb: Nvidia 7900GT + 8800GTX

3D:100" passive projector polarized setup + 22" IZ3D

Stereodrivers: Iz3d & Tridef ignition and nvidia old school.

#5
Posted 03/19/2011 08:05 PM   
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