[Tutorial - Review] 3D Vision on external monitor using an ACTIVE Adapter-DisplayPort to DL-DVI
Hello all,
Most of the active users around here (the forum) know me for being a 3D Surround gamer and all. While currently I still use my GTX 590 (which has 3 DL-DVI ports and no need for adapters) I am in need of a little portability.
Therefor, I thought about using one of my 3D Samsung 2233rz displays along with my Alienware MX14-R1 laptop for this job (after all is easier to carry one laptop + 1 monitor rather than a huge full tower case)
So I started looking around and doing some research.
[b]The following is part review, part tutorial for those who want to do 3D Vision Surround or even just 2D Surround OR simply want to hook their laptop with a 3D monitor ! [/b]
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
=======================================================================================================
[b]PART I - Identify what type of MONITOR you have (Some of this information you will not find in the official specs !!!!!)[/b]
=======================================================================================================
- On your PC, connect the Monitor to a DL-DVI port and ensure 3D Vision is working.
- GO to nVidia Panel select "Change Resolution" and click [b]CUSTOMIZE[/b]
[url=http://www.iforce.co.nz/View.aspx?i=flp3amds.zcj.jpg][img]http://iforce.co.nz/i/flp3amds.zcj.jpg[/img][/url]
- Don't select anything here and press [b]CREATE CUSTOM RESOLUTION...[/b]
[url=http://www.iforce.co.nz/View.aspx?i=2x3ync04.hqe.jpg][img]http://iforce.co.nz/i/2x3ync04.hqe.jpg[/img][/url]
- In this new dialog you can see what is the [b]PIXEL CLOCK[/b] frequency your monitor is using!!! REMEMBER THIS VALUE!!!
[url=http://www.iforce.co.nz/View.aspx?i=adpofbb1.0g0.jpg][img]http://iforce.co.nz/i/adpofbb1.0g0.jpg[/img][/url]
=======================================================================================================
[b]PART I.1 - LAPTOPS ONLY!!![/b]
=======================================================================================================
- If you plan to hook a 3D monitor to your laptop first of all we need to be sure that you have a (mini) Display Port that is actually HOOKED with your nVidia GPU and not the Intel one.
- In order to do this, on your laptop, go to nVidia Panel -> "Set PhysX Configuration"
[url=http://www.iforce.co.nz/View.aspx?i=uqlnjqj1.1q2.jpg][img]http://iforce.co.nz/i/uqlnjqj1.1q2.jpg[/img][/url]
- Here look under your nVidia GPU and Identity IF THE DISPLAY PORT IS [b]DIRECTLY[/b] hooked to it or not.
In the above picture you can clearly see that the DP port is linked directly to the nVidia GPU and is not routed through the Intel Chipset (unlike the HDMI or the VGA that is linking directly to it)
=======================================================================================================
[b]PART II - Looking for a (mini) Display Port to DL-DVI(D/I) ACTIVE adapter[/b]
=======================================================================================================
- For 3D Vision you will need an ACTIVE adapter /converter.
- [b]First[/b] note the type of cable your monitor is using:
[url=http://cdn.overclock.net/d/d6/d62b2dd9_7801.dvid.gif][img]http://cdn.overclock.net/d/d6/d62b2dd9_7801.dvid.gif[/img][/url]
- [b]Second[/b], after you found a converter that has both your connections (Display Port(mini) to DL-DVI-(D/I) [b]TRY TO FIND OUT WHAT BANDWIDTH IT SUPPORTS !!![/b] (This is where the PIXEL CLOCK from image 2 comes into place). You will want a converter with a bandwidth that is a bit higher than your monitor's pixel clock frequency or otherwise IT WILL NOT WORK!!!
This is the tricky part since most adapters/converters don't specify this (in the internet specs), but if you ask directly the company that produces them you will be able to obtain this information!
=======================================================================================================
[b]PART III - Hooking your Monitor + Converter + PC/Laptop[/b]
=======================================================================================================
- After you have the converter in hand I found out that is best to connect the cables in the following order:
a) PC/Laptop is OFF
b) DVI connector in the monitor
c) DVI connector in the adapter
d) (mini) Display port connector (From adapter) in the PC/Laptop
e) [b]Not ENTIRELY Recommended[/b] But now you can start the PC and HOOK the USB connector from the Adapter to an USB port
f) [b]SAFE AND RECOMMENDED WAY[/b] Skip step e). Hook the USB connector to your PC/Laptop and power up the PC/Laptop.
[IMPORTANT]
It will be MOST likely that your USB will not have ENOUGH Power to properly power the converter. Either try to hook it up to an USB port that is part of an USB HUB that has no other connections
OR
[b]Recommended[/b] Buy an external ACTIVE USB HUB (that goes into the wall socket) and hook the USB power connector from the converter to this USB HUB.
For more info see [TROUBLESHOOTING] section at the bottom.
After you followed the above steps you should get something like this:
[url=http://www.iforce.co.nz/View.aspx?i=musgh1jd.z1l.jpg][img]http://iforce.co.nz/i/musgh1jd.z1l.jpg[/img][/url]
=======================================================================================================
[b]REVIEW aspect[/b] This is probably happening only on Laptops. I had some problems with my nvidia drivers (due to Optimus no doubt) when I was trying to keep both monitors active. (the laptop display + the 3D Monitor as primary). The problem appeared mainly when the monitor entered "3D mode". (like going dark and into stand-by mode etc)
I noticed this problem goes away if I enable ONLY the 3D monitor and disable the build-in laptop display as seen below:
[url=http://www.iforce.co.nz/View.aspx?i=opd3w5vf.hsu.jpg][img]http://iforce.co.nz/i/opd3w5vf.hsu.jpg[/img][/url]
=======================================================================================================
[b]PART IV - Setting up - 3D Vision[/b] - YEY!
=======================================================================================================
- Go to nVidia Panel -> "Change resolution" and select your refresh rate for the monitor. It should be able to do 2D 100Hz - 120Hz.
- Go to nVidia Panel -> "Setup stereoscopic 3D" tab and run the wizard.
- You will be able to finish the wizard normaly (for 3D Surround keep in mind that the wizard will appear only on the center monitor and NOT on all 3 screens, but all your monitors should be ON (not in stand-by). For Laptops is the same as regular PCs)
- After the wizard you will be able to see the following Picture:
[url=http://www.iforce.co.nz/View.aspx?i=atb2rd00.fds.jpg][img]http://iforce.co.nz/i/atb2rd00.fds.jpg[/img][/url]
=======================================================================================================
[b]PART V - APP/GAME TESTING[/b] - YEY!
=======================================================================================================
[b]Advice !!![/b] While playing a game in 3D Vision, your FPS will be HALVED from what you normally get in 2D. If you have 60fps in 2D, in 3D Vision you will get 30fps.
- On my laptop I had Tomb Raider (2013) installed so I used this one as one of the tests.
- As you can see the stereoscopic option was enabled and was usable.
[url=http://www.iforce.co.nz/View.aspx?i=fdtbqndf.uve.jpg][img]http://iforce.co.nz/i/fdtbqndf.uve.jpg[/img][/url]
=======================================================================================================
=======================================================================================================
- [b](Review aspect)[/b] [b]OPTIMIZATIONS[/b]
=======================================================================================================
[b] DO NOT FOLLOW THESE STEPS IF YOU DON'T KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING!!!![/b]
=======================================================================================================
=======================================================================================================
- My Laptop came with a Gt555M GPU (not the most powerful one as we all know). However, this GPU has alot of potential (and I mean Overclocking potential).
- Since 3D Vision will HUMP you Lapy's GPU like ...big time:)) (The GPU will be 99% used) you will need all the extra performance you can squeeze! But ofc your temperatures will go UUUUUP!.
a) Download and use a good Fan controller program like [url=http://www.hwinfo.com/download.php]HWInfo[/url].
b) On my Alienware laptop I had to disable all the sensors except the CPU-DS one or else the app will freeze after some time.
c) Set a GOOD MAXIMUM SPEED for your FAN.
d) ENSURE your laptop has a good airflow for cooling (a cooling pad might be handy)
[url=http://www.iforce.co.nz/View.aspx?i=q0ghsbko.4nh.jpg][img]http://iforce.co.nz/i/q0ghsbko.4nh.jpg[/img][/url]
a) Using MSI Afterburner or EVGA Precision Overclock your GPU.
[b]THIS IS RELATED ONLY TO MY GPU - YOURS MIGHT BE TOTALLY DIFFERENT! You have been warned!!![/b]
I manged to get this overclock on my GT555M. The temperatures were in a good 75-81 degrees Celsius (from a max of 95 degrees supported by my GPU)
[url=http://www.iforce.co.nz/View.aspx?i=yqnaf33m.d00.jpg][img]http://iforce.co.nz/i/yqnaf33m.d00.jpg[/img][/url]
With the above overclock I manged to get [b]10 EXTRA FPS IN 3D MODE[/b] (which means around 20 fps in regular 2D)!!!
=======================================================================================================
[b]Conclusions[/b]
=======================================================================================================
[url=http://www.iforce.co.nz/View.aspx?i=13ks0dca.i3e.jpg][img]http://iforce.co.nz/i/13ks0dca.i3e.jpg[/img][/url]
Apparently my Laptop cannot provide the necessary power for the converter to RUN ALL THE TIME in 3D. More exactly:
- 2D @ 120Hz runs fine.
- First time after I power up the system and I enter in 3D mode, the image is crisp and clear and correct and 3D Mode ON.
- Afterwards if I exit 3D Mode and start a new App or the same app, 3D Mode kick in but the image is corrupt!!!
- I managed to fix this by removing the USB converter cable and reinserting it in the Laptop's USB port (after waiting like 20-30 seconds) and afterwards start a 3D app.
- The more permanent solution that I would recommend would be to plug the adapter in an active USB Hub.
=======================================================================================================
[b]TROUBLESHOOTING[/b]
=======================================================================================================
1. If you followed all the above steps you should get the following image:
[url=http://www.iforce.co.nz/View.aspx?i=tola2a40.suk.jpg][img]http://iforce.co.nz/i/tola2a40.suk.jpg[/img][/url]
IF however, 3D Mode kicks IN but your image is corrupted LIKE in the picture bellow (Missing Pixels around text, weird colors, blurry image, etc - Hard to capture with a 60fps camera -_-)
[url=http://www.iforce.co.nz/View.aspx?i=d0lwrkn0.kwj.jpg][img]http://iforce.co.nz/i/d0lwrkn0.kwj.jpg[/img][/url]
the solution is simple: [b]YOU NEED AN EXTERNAL ACTIVE USB HUB in which to connect the converter [/b]
2. I haven't tested IT since I can't, but based on the research I did, it appears that Monitors that HAVE a BUILT-IN 3D EMITTER will render the emitter worthless if such an adapter is used. However, if an external 3D Emitter is used (besides the non-functional built-in one) the monitor will work in 3D Mode.
(If anyone can comment on this please do it!!! ;)) )
=====================================================================================================
Hope this little guide helps people who are looking for buying an adapter and have no clue what to buy:)
Best Regards,
Most of the active users around here (the forum) know me for being a 3D Surround gamer and all. While currently I still use my GTX 590 (which has 3 DL-DVI ports and no need for adapters) I am in need of a little portability.
Therefor, I thought about using one of my 3D Samsung 2233rz displays along with my Alienware MX14-R1 laptop for this job (after all is easier to carry one laptop + 1 monitor rather than a huge full tower case)
So I started looking around and doing some research.
The following is part review, part tutorial for those who want to do 3D Vision Surround or even just 2D Surround OR simply want to hook their laptop with a 3D monitor !
======================================================================================================= PART I - Identify what type of MONITOR you have (Some of this information you will not find in the official specs !!!!!)
=======================================================================================================
- On your PC, connect the Monitor to a DL-DVI port and ensure 3D Vision is working.
- GO to nVidia Panel select "Change Resolution" and click CUSTOMIZE
- Don't select anything here and press CREATE CUSTOM RESOLUTION...
- In this new dialog you can see what is the PIXEL CLOCK frequency your monitor is using!!! REMEMBER THIS VALUE!!!
======================================================================================================= PART I.1 - LAPTOPS ONLY!!!
=======================================================================================================
- If you plan to hook a 3D monitor to your laptop first of all we need to be sure that you have a (mini) Display Port that is actually HOOKED with your nVidia GPU and not the Intel one.
- In order to do this, on your laptop, go to nVidia Panel -> "Set PhysX Configuration"
- Here look under your nVidia GPU and Identity IF THE DISPLAY PORT IS DIRECTLY hooked to it or not.
In the above picture you can clearly see that the DP port is linked directly to the nVidia GPU and is not routed through the Intel Chipset (unlike the HDMI or the VGA that is linking directly to it)
======================================================================================================= PART II - Looking for a (mini) Display Port to DL-DVI(D/I) ACTIVE adapter
=======================================================================================================
- For 3D Vision you will need an ACTIVE adapter /converter.
- First note the type of cable your monitor is using:
- Second, after you found a converter that has both your connections (Display Port(mini) to DL-DVI-(D/I) TRY TO FIND OUT WHAT BANDWIDTH IT SUPPORTS !!! (This is where the PIXEL CLOCK from image 2 comes into place). You will want a converter with a bandwidth that is a bit higher than your monitor's pixel clock frequency or otherwise IT WILL NOT WORK!!!
This is the tricky part since most adapters/converters don't specify this (in the internet specs), but if you ask directly the company that produces them you will be able to obtain this information!
======================================================================================================= PART III - Hooking your Monitor + Converter + PC/Laptop
=======================================================================================================
- After you have the converter in hand I found out that is best to connect the cables in the following order:
a) PC/Laptop is OFF
b) DVI connector in the monitor
c) DVI connector in the adapter
d) (mini) Display port connector (From adapter) in the PC/Laptop
e) Not ENTIRELY Recommended But now you can start the PC and HOOK the USB connector from the Adapter to an USB port
f) SAFE AND RECOMMENDED WAY Skip step e). Hook the USB connector to your PC/Laptop and power up the PC/Laptop.
[IMPORTANT]
It will be MOST likely that your USB will not have ENOUGH Power to properly power the converter. Either try to hook it up to an USB port that is part of an USB HUB that has no other connections
OR Recommended Buy an external ACTIVE USB HUB (that goes into the wall socket) and hook the USB power connector from the converter to this USB HUB.
For more info see [TROUBLESHOOTING] section at the bottom.
After you followed the above steps you should get something like this:
======================================================================================================= REVIEW aspect This is probably happening only on Laptops. I had some problems with my nvidia drivers (due to Optimus no doubt) when I was trying to keep both monitors active. (the laptop display + the 3D Monitor as primary). The problem appeared mainly when the monitor entered "3D mode". (like going dark and into stand-by mode etc)
I noticed this problem goes away if I enable ONLY the 3D monitor and disable the build-in laptop display as seen below:
======================================================================================================= PART IV - Setting up - 3D Vision - YEY!
=======================================================================================================
- Go to nVidia Panel -> "Change resolution" and select your refresh rate for the monitor. It should be able to do 2D 100Hz - 120Hz.
- Go to nVidia Panel -> "Setup stereoscopic 3D" tab and run the wizard.
- You will be able to finish the wizard normaly (for 3D Surround keep in mind that the wizard will appear only on the center monitor and NOT on all 3 screens, but all your monitors should be ON (not in stand-by). For Laptops is the same as regular PCs)
- After the wizard you will be able to see the following Picture:
======================================================================================================= PART V - APP/GAME TESTING - YEY!
=======================================================================================================
Advice !!! While playing a game in 3D Vision, your FPS will be HALVED from what you normally get in 2D. If you have 60fps in 2D, in 3D Vision you will get 30fps.
- On my laptop I had Tomb Raider (2013) installed so I used this one as one of the tests.
- As you can see the stereoscopic option was enabled and was usable.
=======================================================================================================
=======================================================================================================
- (Review aspect)OPTIMIZATIONS
======================================================================================================= DO NOT FOLLOW THESE STEPS IF YOU DON'T KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING!!!!
=======================================================================================================
=======================================================================================================
- My Laptop came with a Gt555M GPU (not the most powerful one as we all know). However, this GPU has alot of potential (and I mean Overclocking potential).
- Since 3D Vision will HUMP you Lapy's GPU like ...big time:)) (The GPU will be 99% used) you will need all the extra performance you can squeeze! But ofc your temperatures will go UUUUUP!.
a) Download and use a good Fan controller program like HWInfo.
b) On my Alienware laptop I had to disable all the sensors except the CPU-DS one or else the app will freeze after some time.
c) Set a GOOD MAXIMUM SPEED for your FAN.
d) ENSURE your laptop has a good airflow for cooling (a cooling pad might be handy)
a) Using MSI Afterburner or EVGA Precision Overclock your GPU. THIS IS RELATED ONLY TO MY GPU - YOURS MIGHT BE TOTALLY DIFFERENT! You have been warned!!!
I manged to get this overclock on my GT555M. The temperatures were in a good 75-81 degrees Celsius (from a max of 95 degrees supported by my GPU)
With the above overclock I manged to get 10 EXTRA FPS IN 3D MODE (which means around 20 fps in regular 2D)!!!
======================================================================================================= Conclusions
=======================================================================================================
Apparently my Laptop cannot provide the necessary power for the converter to RUN ALL THE TIME in 3D. More exactly:
- 2D @ 120Hz runs fine.
- First time after I power up the system and I enter in 3D mode, the image is crisp and clear and correct and 3D Mode ON.
- Afterwards if I exit 3D Mode and start a new App or the same app, 3D Mode kick in but the image is corrupt!!!
- I managed to fix this by removing the USB converter cable and reinserting it in the Laptop's USB port (after waiting like 20-30 seconds) and afterwards start a 3D app.
- The more permanent solution that I would recommend would be to plug the adapter in an active USB Hub.
1. If you followed all the above steps you should get the following image:
IF however, 3D Mode kicks IN but your image is corrupted LIKE in the picture bellow (Missing Pixels around text, weird colors, blurry image, etc - Hard to capture with a 60fps camera -_-)
the solution is simple: YOU NEED AN EXTERNAL ACTIVE USB HUB in which to connect the converter
2. I haven't tested IT since I can't, but based on the research I did, it appears that Monitors that HAVE a BUILT-IN 3D EMITTER will render the emitter worthless if such an adapter is used. However, if an external 3D Emitter is used (besides the non-functional built-in one) the monitor will work in 3D Mode.
(If anyone can comment on this please do it!!! ;)) )
Hope this little guide helps people who are looking for buying an adapter and have no clue what to buy:)
Best Regards,
1x Palit RTX 2080Ti Pro Gaming OC(watercooled and overclocked to hell)
3x 3D Vision Ready Asus VG278HE monitors (5760x1080).
Intel i9 9900K (overclocked to 5.3 and watercooled ofc).
Asus Maximus XI Hero Mobo.
16 GB Team Group T-Force Dark Pro DDR4 @ 3600.
Lots of Disks:
- Raid 0 - 256GB Sandisk Extreme SSD.
- Raid 0 - WD Black - 2TB.
- SanDisk SSD PLUS 480 GB.
- Intel 760p 256GB M.2 PCIe NVMe SSD.
Creative Sound Blaster Z.
Windows 10 x64 Pro.
etc
[quote="Cookybiscuit"]Sounds like its easier to just buy two cards and be done with it.[/quote]
I would buy 3 cards If I could fit them in the laptop hahaha:)) But yes, SLI is a must in stereo 3D most of the times. However, not everyone wants/has the money to buy 2 cards.
This post was done since lately I saw a few people confused about what should they buy and I wanted to share my experience and also help out others who are looking into this.
Cookybiscuit said:Sounds like its easier to just buy two cards and be done with it.
I would buy 3 cards If I could fit them in the laptop hahaha:)) But yes, SLI is a must in stereo 3D most of the times. However, not everyone wants/has the money to buy 2 cards.
This post was done since lately I saw a few people confused about what should they buy and I wanted to share my experience and also help out others who are looking into this.
1x Palit RTX 2080Ti Pro Gaming OC(watercooled and overclocked to hell)
3x 3D Vision Ready Asus VG278HE monitors (5760x1080).
Intel i9 9900K (overclocked to 5.3 and watercooled ofc).
Asus Maximus XI Hero Mobo.
16 GB Team Group T-Force Dark Pro DDR4 @ 3600.
Lots of Disks:
- Raid 0 - 256GB Sandisk Extreme SSD.
- Raid 0 - WD Black - 2TB.
- SanDisk SSD PLUS 480 GB.
- Intel 760p 256GB M.2 PCIe NVMe SSD.
Creative Sound Blaster Z.
Windows 10 x64 Pro.
etc
[quote="Cookybiscuit"]Sounds like its easier to just buy two cards and be done with it.[/quote]
This would be the better solution for many people due to the fact that there is currently only "ONE" adapter with the required bandwidth for 1920x1080P@120Hz with a pixel clock of 285.5424 MHz. The problem is that the CAC-1051 made by Club 3D is only available in a few European countries and costs 124 euros.
All of the other available adapters are Display port 1.1 and limited to 270MHz.
Cookybiscuit said:Sounds like its easier to just buy two cards and be done with it.
This would be the better solution for many people due to the fact that there is currently only "ONE" adapter with the required bandwidth for 1920x1080P@120Hz with a pixel clock of 285.5424 MHz. The problem is that the CAC-1051 made by Club 3D is only available in a few European countries and costs 124 euros.
All of the other available adapters are Display port 1.1 and limited to 270MHz.
There is in fact a cable that works fine with 3D monitors listed at 330mhz. The only problem with the cable seems to be the required power for the active capabilities I ordered the following cable.
[url]http://www.amazon.com/Accell-B087B-007B-DisplayPort-Dual-Link-Adapter/dp/B00856WJH8/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1375647548&sr=1-1&keywords=Accell+B087B-007B[/url]
I just wanted to say thanks to Helifax because without his review I would have been unable to make an educated decision.
Edit: I contacted the manufacturer and the instructed that most USB ports run at 0.5 amps and 2.5 watts of power and the adapter requires 1.0 amp with 5.0 watts of power. USB 3.0 provides 0.9 AMPs and 4.5 watts of power. USB 3.0 works fine without any issues, if you do experience issues they recommend you purchase a individual power USB. Ironicly most phone USB chargers including SONY, GOOGLE, IHPONE and SAMSUNG all offer the same 1.0 amp and 5.0 watts of power. So if you have one of those around, just use that.
There is in fact a cable that works fine with 3D monitors listed at 330mhz. The only problem with the cable seems to be the required power for the active capabilities I ordered the following cable.
I just wanted to say thanks to Helifax because without his review I would have been unable to make an educated decision.
Edit: I contacted the manufacturer and the instructed that most USB ports run at 0.5 amps and 2.5 watts of power and the adapter requires 1.0 amp with 5.0 watts of power. USB 3.0 provides 0.9 AMPs and 4.5 watts of power. USB 3.0 works fine without any issues, if you do experience issues they recommend you purchase a individual power USB. Ironicly most phone USB chargers including SONY, GOOGLE, IHPONE and SAMSUNG all offer the same 1.0 amp and 5.0 watts of power. So if you have one of those around, just use that.
Glad that it helped and that it works for you too;)) and welcome to the club;))
1x Palit RTX 2080Ti Pro Gaming OC(watercooled and overclocked to hell)
3x 3D Vision Ready Asus VG278HE monitors (5760x1080).
Intel i9 9900K (overclocked to 5.3 and watercooled ofc).
Asus Maximus XI Hero Mobo.
16 GB Team Group T-Force Dark Pro DDR4 @ 3600.
Lots of Disks:
- Raid 0 - 256GB Sandisk Extreme SSD.
- Raid 0 - WD Black - 2TB.
- SanDisk SSD PLUS 480 GB.
- Intel 760p 256GB M.2 PCIe NVMe SSD.
Creative Sound Blaster Z.
Windows 10 x64 Pro.
etc
I updated the driver to 388.00 and now the Stereoscopic 3D does not appear. My laptop is Qosmio X870 with geforce 670M
please look this image [url]http://angeloromeo.it/images/driver_nvidia.jpg[/url]
I have a BenQ projector with 3D glasses. Why don't I have the 'Stereoscopic 3D' option in the NVIDIA control panel?
As a matter of fact, I only have the '3D Settings' option, no 'Display' or 'Video' either. What's wrong???
Most of the active users around here (the forum) know me for being a 3D Surround gamer and all. While currently I still use my GTX 590 (which has 3 DL-DVI ports and no need for adapters) I am in need of a little portability.
Therefor, I thought about using one of my 3D Samsung 2233rz displays along with my Alienware MX14-R1 laptop for this job (after all is easier to carry one laptop + 1 monitor rather than a huge full tower case)
So I started looking around and doing some research.
The following is part review, part tutorial for those who want to do 3D Vision Surround or even just 2D Surround OR simply want to hook their laptop with a 3D monitor !
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
=======================================================================================================
PART I - Identify what type of MONITOR you have (Some of this information you will not find in the official specs !!!!!)
=======================================================================================================
- On your PC, connect the Monitor to a DL-DVI port and ensure 3D Vision is working.
- GO to nVidia Panel select "Change Resolution" and click CUSTOMIZE
- Don't select anything here and press CREATE CUSTOM RESOLUTION...
- In this new dialog you can see what is the PIXEL CLOCK frequency your monitor is using!!! REMEMBER THIS VALUE!!!
=======================================================================================================
PART I.1 - LAPTOPS ONLY!!!
=======================================================================================================
- If you plan to hook a 3D monitor to your laptop first of all we need to be sure that you have a (mini) Display Port that is actually HOOKED with your nVidia GPU and not the Intel one.
- In order to do this, on your laptop, go to nVidia Panel -> "Set PhysX Configuration"
- Here look under your nVidia GPU and Identity IF THE DISPLAY PORT IS DIRECTLY hooked to it or not.
In the above picture you can clearly see that the DP port is linked directly to the nVidia GPU and is not routed through the Intel Chipset (unlike the HDMI or the VGA that is linking directly to it)
=======================================================================================================
PART II - Looking for a (mini) Display Port to DL-DVI(D/I) ACTIVE adapter
=======================================================================================================
- For 3D Vision you will need an ACTIVE adapter /converter.
- First note the type of cable your monitor is using:
- Second, after you found a converter that has both your connections (Display Port(mini) to DL-DVI-(D/I) TRY TO FIND OUT WHAT BANDWIDTH IT SUPPORTS !!! (This is where the PIXEL CLOCK from image 2 comes into place). You will want a converter with a bandwidth that is a bit higher than your monitor's pixel clock frequency or otherwise IT WILL NOT WORK!!!
This is the tricky part since most adapters/converters don't specify this (in the internet specs), but if you ask directly the company that produces them you will be able to obtain this information!
=======================================================================================================
PART III - Hooking your Monitor + Converter + PC/Laptop
=======================================================================================================
- After you have the converter in hand I found out that is best to connect the cables in the following order:
a) PC/Laptop is OFF
b) DVI connector in the monitor
c) DVI connector in the adapter
d) (mini) Display port connector (From adapter) in the PC/Laptop
e) Not ENTIRELY Recommended But now you can start the PC and HOOK the USB connector from the Adapter to an USB port
f) SAFE AND RECOMMENDED WAY Skip step e). Hook the USB connector to your PC/Laptop and power up the PC/Laptop.
[IMPORTANT]
It will be MOST likely that your USB will not have ENOUGH Power to properly power the converter. Either try to hook it up to an USB port that is part of an USB HUB that has no other connections
OR
Recommended Buy an external ACTIVE USB HUB (that goes into the wall socket) and hook the USB power connector from the converter to this USB HUB.
For more info see [TROUBLESHOOTING] section at the bottom.
After you followed the above steps you should get something like this:
=======================================================================================================
REVIEW aspect This is probably happening only on Laptops. I had some problems with my nvidia drivers (due to Optimus no doubt) when I was trying to keep both monitors active. (the laptop display + the 3D Monitor as primary). The problem appeared mainly when the monitor entered "3D mode". (like going dark and into stand-by mode etc)
I noticed this problem goes away if I enable ONLY the 3D monitor and disable the build-in laptop display as seen below:
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PART IV - Setting up - 3D Vision - YEY!
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- Go to nVidia Panel -> "Change resolution" and select your refresh rate for the monitor. It should be able to do 2D 100Hz - 120Hz.
- Go to nVidia Panel -> "Setup stereoscopic 3D" tab and run the wizard.
- You will be able to finish the wizard normaly (for 3D Surround keep in mind that the wizard will appear only on the center monitor and NOT on all 3 screens, but all your monitors should be ON (not in stand-by). For Laptops is the same as regular PCs)
- After the wizard you will be able to see the following Picture:
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PART V - APP/GAME TESTING - YEY!
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Advice !!! While playing a game in 3D Vision, your FPS will be HALVED from what you normally get in 2D. If you have 60fps in 2D, in 3D Vision you will get 30fps.
- On my laptop I had Tomb Raider (2013) installed so I used this one as one of the tests.
- As you can see the stereoscopic option was enabled and was usable.
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- (Review aspect) OPTIMIZATIONS
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DO NOT FOLLOW THESE STEPS IF YOU DON'T KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING!!!!
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- My Laptop came with a Gt555M GPU (not the most powerful one as we all know). However, this GPU has alot of potential (and I mean Overclocking potential).
- Since 3D Vision will HUMP you Lapy's GPU like ...big time:)) (The GPU will be 99% used) you will need all the extra performance you can squeeze! But ofc your temperatures will go UUUUUP!.
a) Download and use a good Fan controller program like HWInfo.
b) On my Alienware laptop I had to disable all the sensors except the CPU-DS one or else the app will freeze after some time.
c) Set a GOOD MAXIMUM SPEED for your FAN.
d) ENSURE your laptop has a good airflow for cooling (a cooling pad might be handy)
a) Using MSI Afterburner or EVGA Precision Overclock your GPU.
THIS IS RELATED ONLY TO MY GPU - YOURS MIGHT BE TOTALLY DIFFERENT! You have been warned!!!
I manged to get this overclock on my GT555M. The temperatures were in a good 75-81 degrees Celsius (from a max of 95 degrees supported by my GPU)
With the above overclock I manged to get 10 EXTRA FPS IN 3D MODE (which means around 20 fps in regular 2D)!!!
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Conclusions
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Apparently my Laptop cannot provide the necessary power for the converter to RUN ALL THE TIME in 3D. More exactly:
- 2D @ 120Hz runs fine.
- First time after I power up the system and I enter in 3D mode, the image is crisp and clear and correct and 3D Mode ON.
- Afterwards if I exit 3D Mode and start a new App or the same app, 3D Mode kick in but the image is corrupt!!!
- I managed to fix this by removing the USB converter cable and reinserting it in the Laptop's USB port (after waiting like 20-30 seconds) and afterwards start a 3D app.
- The more permanent solution that I would recommend would be to plug the adapter in an active USB Hub.
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TROUBLESHOOTING
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1. If you followed all the above steps you should get the following image:
IF however, 3D Mode kicks IN but your image is corrupted LIKE in the picture bellow (Missing Pixels around text, weird colors, blurry image, etc - Hard to capture with a 60fps camera -_-)
the solution is simple: YOU NEED AN EXTERNAL ACTIVE USB HUB in which to connect the converter
2. I haven't tested IT since I can't, but based on the research I did, it appears that Monitors that HAVE a BUILT-IN 3D EMITTER will render the emitter worthless if such an adapter is used. However, if an external 3D Emitter is used (besides the non-functional built-in one) the monitor will work in 3D Mode.
(If anyone can comment on this please do it!!! ;)) )
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Hope this little guide helps people who are looking for buying an adapter and have no clue what to buy:)
Best Regards,
1x Palit RTX 2080Ti Pro Gaming OC(watercooled and overclocked to hell)
3x 3D Vision Ready Asus VG278HE monitors (5760x1080).
Intel i9 9900K (overclocked to 5.3 and watercooled ofc).
Asus Maximus XI Hero Mobo.
16 GB Team Group T-Force Dark Pro DDR4 @ 3600.
Lots of Disks:
- Raid 0 - 256GB Sandisk Extreme SSD.
- Raid 0 - WD Black - 2TB.
- SanDisk SSD PLUS 480 GB.
- Intel 760p 256GB M.2 PCIe NVMe SSD.
Creative Sound Blaster Z.
Windows 10 x64 Pro.
etc
My website with my fixes and OpenGL to 3D Vision wrapper:
http://3dsurroundgaming.com
(If you like some of the stuff that I've done and want to donate something, you can do it with PayPal at tavyhome@gmail.com)
I would buy 3 cards If I could fit them in the laptop hahaha:)) But yes, SLI is a must in stereo 3D most of the times. However, not everyone wants/has the money to buy 2 cards.
This post was done since lately I saw a few people confused about what should they buy and I wanted to share my experience and also help out others who are looking into this.
1x Palit RTX 2080Ti Pro Gaming OC(watercooled and overclocked to hell)
3x 3D Vision Ready Asus VG278HE monitors (5760x1080).
Intel i9 9900K (overclocked to 5.3 and watercooled ofc).
Asus Maximus XI Hero Mobo.
16 GB Team Group T-Force Dark Pro DDR4 @ 3600.
Lots of Disks:
- Raid 0 - 256GB Sandisk Extreme SSD.
- Raid 0 - WD Black - 2TB.
- SanDisk SSD PLUS 480 GB.
- Intel 760p 256GB M.2 PCIe NVMe SSD.
Creative Sound Blaster Z.
Windows 10 x64 Pro.
etc
My website with my fixes and OpenGL to 3D Vision wrapper:
http://3dsurroundgaming.com
(If you like some of the stuff that I've done and want to donate something, you can do it with PayPal at tavyhome@gmail.com)
Asus Rampage Extreme II | Quad core intel I7 2.6 | 6gig ram | Geforce GTX 680 | Samsung 22" 2233RZ | Acer 5360 | win8
3D website dedicated soley for nvidia 3D Vision
Visit 3dSolutionGaming.com for an A-Z listing of 3D streaming video's, automated slideshows, download packs and common fixes for 3dvision gamers.
Facebook Page: https://www.facebook.com/3dsolutiongaming
Twitter page: https://twitter.com/solutiongaming
Youtube Channel: www.youtube.com/user/SolutionGaming
Keenly supporting the Helixwrapper
http://helixmod.blogspot.com/
This would be the better solution for many people due to the fact that there is currently only "ONE" adapter with the required bandwidth for 1920x1080P@120Hz with a pixel clock of 285.5424 MHz. The problem is that the CAC-1051 made by Club 3D is only available in a few European countries and costs 124 euros.
All of the other available adapters are Display port 1.1 and limited to 270MHz.
http://www.amazon.com/Accell-B087B-007B-DisplayPort-Dual-Link-Adapter/dp/B00856WJH8/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1375647548&sr=1-1&keywords=Accell+B087B-007B
I just wanted to say thanks to Helifax because without his review I would have been unable to make an educated decision.
Edit: I contacted the manufacturer and the instructed that most USB ports run at 0.5 amps and 2.5 watts of power and the adapter requires 1.0 amp with 5.0 watts of power. USB 3.0 provides 0.9 AMPs and 4.5 watts of power. USB 3.0 works fine without any issues, if you do experience issues they recommend you purchase a individual power USB. Ironicly most phone USB chargers including SONY, GOOGLE, IHPONE and SAMSUNG all offer the same 1.0 amp and 5.0 watts of power. So if you have one of those around, just use that.
1x Palit RTX 2080Ti Pro Gaming OC(watercooled and overclocked to hell)
3x 3D Vision Ready Asus VG278HE monitors (5760x1080).
Intel i9 9900K (overclocked to 5.3 and watercooled ofc).
Asus Maximus XI Hero Mobo.
16 GB Team Group T-Force Dark Pro DDR4 @ 3600.
Lots of Disks:
- Raid 0 - 256GB Sandisk Extreme SSD.
- Raid 0 - WD Black - 2TB.
- SanDisk SSD PLUS 480 GB.
- Intel 760p 256GB M.2 PCIe NVMe SSD.
Creative Sound Blaster Z.
Windows 10 x64 Pro.
etc
My website with my fixes and OpenGL to 3D Vision wrapper:
http://3dsurroundgaming.com
(If you like some of the stuff that I've done and want to donate something, you can do it with PayPal at tavyhome@gmail.com)
please look this image http://angeloromeo.it/images/driver_nvidia.jpg
As a matter of fact, I only have the '3D Settings' option, no 'Display' or 'Video' either. What's wrong???
Start a new thread, your problem is not related to this topic.