New Samsung 2011 LED-LCD TV Models Checkerboard and SBS are supported
Looks like just about everything is supported in the new sammy models, including checkerboard and side-by-side for the new D Series models 7000 and above. Just bought the UN55D8000 and I am excited about buying nvidia 3D TV Play and hope for checkerboard support in the very near future. :)

If I find out what the input lag is after it's delivered later this week I will edit my post with that info. But the tv looks amazing! I included a picture from their built-in manual showing the support.
Looks like just about everything is supported in the new sammy models, including checkerboard and side-by-side for the new D Series models 7000 and above. Just bought the UN55D8000 and I am excited about buying nvidia 3D TV Play and hope for checkerboard support in the very near future. :)



If I find out what the input lag is after it's delivered later this week I will edit my post with that info. But the tv looks amazing! I included a picture from their built-in manual showing the support.
Attachments

un55d8000-02.JPG

#1
Posted 03/07/2011 08:56 PM   
[quote name='AustinTex' date='07 March 2011 - 01:56 PM' timestamp='1299531381' post='1203819']
Looks like just about everything is supported in the new sammy models, including checkerboard and side-by-side for the new D Series models 7000 and above. Just bought the UN55D8000 and I am excited about buying nvidia 3D TV Play and hope for checkerboard support in the very near future. :)

If I find out what the input lag is after it's delivered later this week I will edit my post with that info. But the tv looks amazing! I included a picture from their built-in manual showing the support.
[/quote]

For many people checkerboard is a make or break feature, so this is good news. There is no on-line manual so we needed for someone to provide conclusive first hand testimony. Valuble info indeed!
[quote name='AustinTex' date='07 March 2011 - 01:56 PM' timestamp='1299531381' post='1203819']

Looks like just about everything is supported in the new sammy models, including checkerboard and side-by-side for the new D Series models 7000 and above. Just bought the UN55D8000 and I am excited about buying nvidia 3D TV Play and hope for checkerboard support in the very near future. :)



If I find out what the input lag is after it's delivered later this week I will edit my post with that info. But the tv looks amazing! I included a picture from their built-in manual showing the support.





For many people checkerboard is a make or break feature, so this is good news. There is no on-line manual so we needed for someone to provide conclusive first hand testimony. Valuble info indeed!

#2
Posted 03/07/2011 11:30 PM   
I bought the UN55D8000 as well. I was able to use roller11's checkerboard inf and even built the 555 circuit and was able to suppress the "Need Sync" message.

Everything works, except the crosstalk in checkerboard mode is really bad. I can switch the Nvidia 3D display type to CRT mode, and then use page flipping, and the crosstalk isn't nearly as bad but then the game I'm testing with, Crysis 2, becomes unplayably laggy, nearly a 1 second delay on the controls. I have an Alienware AW2310 that it works fine on.

I've messed around with the TV's 3d settings, they don't really seem to have any effect (except swapping eyes, which I did have to do) I don't think the circuit's timing makes any difference, because the picture is the same with it on or off. I'm not really sure what to try next, it's so close to working.

About the circuit:

I had almost zero electronics experience before building that circuit. I had a radioshack electronics learning lab in storage, model no 28-280, that I bought several years ago. It had most of the parts needed, including the 555 IC, and a 7805 5 Volt regulator that I used to generate the +5V. The first circuit the instruction book has you build actually is the astable 555 timer circuit, so, that was hugely helpful, and a simple 9V to 5V circuit is near the back of the book. I want to change it so it uses USB for power.

The things I needed from radioshack were the 460ohm resistor (which I guess I could have done without, since people are saying the frequency doesn't really matter, as long it's above 20hz or something?) and a 1/8" stereo jack and 1/8" female stereo to 3/32" male adapter. I decided to use a jack and adapter because I don't have a soldering iron and it'd be easier to wrap the wires around the larger jack's terminals, and I also have a ton of 1/8" stereo cables so reaching the emitter from my circuit would be easier.

It looks like radio shack still sells the learning lab : http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3814337 , and its cookbooks are online at http://www.radioshack.com/graphics/uc/rsk/Support/ProductManuals/2800027_P1_PM_EN.pdf and http://www.radioshack.com/graphics/uc/rsk/Support/ProductManuals/2800027_P2_PM_EN.pdf . It barely explains anything, but if you study the schematics when building the circuits you do at least learn how to build from a schematic. Thanks roller11 for giving me a useful approachable project, I've learned a lot so far.

Links to roller11's fixes:

Monitor inf : http://forums.nvidia.com/index.php?showtopic=191819&st=0

555 Circuit : http://forums.nvidia.com/index.php?showtopic=191995&st=0
I bought the UN55D8000 as well. I was able to use roller11's checkerboard inf and even built the 555 circuit and was able to suppress the "Need Sync" message.



Everything works, except the crosstalk in checkerboard mode is really bad. I can switch the Nvidia 3D display type to CRT mode, and then use page flipping, and the crosstalk isn't nearly as bad but then the game I'm testing with, Crysis 2, becomes unplayably laggy, nearly a 1 second delay on the controls. I have an Alienware AW2310 that it works fine on.



I've messed around with the TV's 3d settings, they don't really seem to have any effect (except swapping eyes, which I did have to do) I don't think the circuit's timing makes any difference, because the picture is the same with it on or off. I'm not really sure what to try next, it's so close to working.



About the circuit:



I had almost zero electronics experience before building that circuit. I had a radioshack electronics learning lab in storage, model no 28-280, that I bought several years ago. It had most of the parts needed, including the 555 IC, and a 7805 5 Volt regulator that I used to generate the +5V. The first circuit the instruction book has you build actually is the astable 555 timer circuit, so, that was hugely helpful, and a simple 9V to 5V circuit is near the back of the book. I want to change it so it uses USB for power.



The things I needed from radioshack were the 460ohm resistor (which I guess I could have done without, since people are saying the frequency doesn't really matter, as long it's above 20hz or something?) and a 1/8" stereo jack and 1/8" female stereo to 3/32" male adapter. I decided to use a jack and adapter because I don't have a soldering iron and it'd be easier to wrap the wires around the larger jack's terminals, and I also have a ton of 1/8" stereo cables so reaching the emitter from my circuit would be easier.



It looks like radio shack still sells the learning lab : http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3814337 , and its cookbooks are online at http://www.radioshack.com/graphics/uc/rsk/Support/ProductManuals/2800027_P1_PM_EN.pdf and http://www.radioshack.com/graphics/uc/rsk/Support/ProductManuals/2800027_P2_PM_EN.pdf . It barely explains anything, but if you study the schematics when building the circuits you do at least learn how to build from a schematic. Thanks roller11 for giving me a useful approachable project, I've learned a lot so far.



Links to roller11's fixes:



Monitor inf : http://forums.nvidia.com/index.php?showtopic=191819&st=0



555 Circuit : http://forums.nvidia.com/index.php?showtopic=191995&st=0

#3
Posted 04/04/2011 05:33 AM   
thanks for the kind words, Vhold.
In retrospect, my 555 tutorial probably turned people off because I over explained the construction of the circuit, provided way too much detail. I've since condensed the tutorial to one sentence: "build the 555 timer circuit shown on wikipedia, use 560/10K/.1 microfards in the "astable" diagram."
Like you, I have no instrumentation other than a voltmeter. I soldered the 6 parts together and the circuit just worked. Even though I have a soldering iron, but I still took the easy way and used a solderless adaptor for the 1/8" to 3/32" conversion. While using the "learning lab" is certainly a way to achieve desired results, it is cheaper and easier to buy only six caps/resistors/IC you need for the project. Every Radio Shack has the cheap parts in stock, or you can buy them on-line from places like Amazon. Total cost is about $12.00 USD.

BTW, do you have the eye reversal problem in games? I did at first, I've since published a third tutorial to fix this if it is a problem.
thanks for the kind words, Vhold.

In retrospect, my 555 tutorial probably turned people off because I over explained the construction of the circuit, provided way too much detail. I've since condensed the tutorial to one sentence: "build the 555 timer circuit shown on wikipedia, use 560/10K/.1 microfards in the "astable" diagram."

Like you, I have no instrumentation other than a voltmeter. I soldered the 6 parts together and the circuit just worked. Even though I have a soldering iron, but I still took the easy way and used a solderless adaptor for the 1/8" to 3/32" conversion. While using the "learning lab" is certainly a way to achieve desired results, it is cheaper and easier to buy only six caps/resistors/IC you need for the project. Every Radio Shack has the cheap parts in stock, or you can buy them on-line from places like Amazon. Total cost is about $12.00 USD.



BTW, do you have the eye reversal problem in games? I did at first, I've since published a third tutorial to fix this if it is a problem.

#4
Posted 04/04/2011 02:55 PM   
too bad about the ghosting. hopefully Samsung can fix this issue for you guys.
too bad about the ghosting. hopefully Samsung can fix this issue for you guys.

System:

Intel I7 920 overclocked to 4ghz

Asus Rampage Extreme II

2 Ge-force 480 in SLI

GTX 295 PhysX Card

12gb ddr3 2000mhz ram

Intel SSD in RAID 0

BR RW

1000w Sony surround sound

NVIDIA 3D Vision



3d displays tested:



Mitsubishi 65" DLP 3d HDTV (good old 1080p checkerboard since 2007!!!)

Panasonic VT25 (nice 2d but I returned it due to cross talk)

Acer H5360 720p on 130" screen (the best 3d)

23" Acer LCD monitor (horrible cross talk- sold it)

Samsung 65D8000

#5
Posted 04/04/2011 09:58 PM   
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