LG 55EG960V/9600 Passive 3d
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Just wanted to create a new thread because I'm sure at least one person here (Nobsi?) has the same tv as me. I've been saving for a new projector or tv for ages and I got fed up waiting so I bought one of these last week as a huge huge treat to myself. I've played around with a couple of games and 3dMigoto and so far so good but wanted to share and compare experiences. Is everyone seeing some ghosting on these or other passive 3d sets? I'm not talking about when you move away from the horizontal sweet spot, I'm talking about the normal ghosting you get on any LCD device? Don't get me wrong, it's very minimal and I haven't seen if watching any broadcast 3d. I see a bit on the 3d vision test, particularly when the large spinning Nvidia logo comes right out of the screen at you. The TV is stunning in every way and actually supports 3d checkerboard mode as well, which I wasn't expecting.
Just wanted to create a new thread because I'm sure at least one person here (Nobsi?) has the same tv as me.
I've been saving for a new projector or tv for ages and I got fed up waiting so I bought one of these last week as a huge huge treat to myself.

I've played around with a couple of games and 3dMigoto and so far so good but wanted to share and compare experiences.

Is everyone seeing some ghosting on these or other passive 3d sets? I'm not talking about when you move away from the horizontal sweet spot, I'm talking about the normal ghosting you get on any LCD device?

Don't get me wrong, it's very minimal and I haven't seen if watching any broadcast 3d.
I see a bit on the 3d vision test, particularly when the large spinning Nvidia logo comes right out of the screen at you.

The TV is stunning in every way and actually supports 3d checkerboard mode as well, which I wasn't expecting.

GTX 1070 SLI, I7-6700k ~ 4.4Ghz, 3x BenQ XL2420T, BenQ TK800, LG 55EG960V (3D OLED), Samsung 850 EVO SSD, Crucial M4 SSD, 3D vision kit, Xpand x104 glasses, Corsair HX1000i, Win 10 pro 64/Win 7 64https://www.3dmark.com/fs/9529310

#1
Posted 05/22/2016 12:14 PM   
Are you using joker18's great EDID mod (see [url]https://forums.geforce.com/default/topic/818183/3d-vision/gtx-970-4k-3d-vision-gaming-success-with-lgub850v-passive-tv-/post/4510149/#4510149[/url])? The EDID mod also requires 3DVisionEye Swapper application to display 3D correctly, as well as enable convergence changes to be saved (work correctly). I have flat OLED version, a 55EF9500 (great black levels, suggest using NVIDIA Control Panel/Change resolution to use RGB with Full Output dynamic range - and enable TV's Ultra HD Deep Color for appropriate HDMI input). I have seen unusual ghosting at times with games, but only if the TV's 3D mode has been Enabled (some type of software screen compensation?). This ghosting persists until the TV's power is cycled (not disabled by 3D button), returning to normal EDID display. With the EDID mod, the Desktop is forced to 3840x2160, and 3D Vision's Optimized for NVIDIA GeForce mode directly provides the interleaved 3D input - TV simply displays interleaved signal. By the way, the Control Panel's stereo test mode does NOT work with this EDID mod under Windows 10 - but it does work correctly under Windows 8.1 and 7. The forced 3840x2160 Desktop creates a performance issue for some games where the in-game scaling does not work correctly with the EDID mod - see [url]https://forums.geforce.com/default/topic/935077/3d-vision/if-3d-vision-could-output-4k-resolution-60-hz-would-one-get-3d-picture-from-4k-tv-equal-to-1080p-1/post/4876499/#4876499[/url] for more discussion.
Are you using joker18's great EDID mod (see https://forums.geforce.com/default/topic/818183/3d-vision/gtx-970-4k-3d-vision-gaming-success-with-lgub850v-passive-tv-/post/4510149/#4510149)? The EDID mod also requires 3DVisionEye Swapper application to display 3D correctly, as well as enable convergence changes to be saved (work correctly).

I have flat OLED version, a 55EF9500 (great black levels, suggest using NVIDIA Control Panel/Change resolution to use RGB with Full Output dynamic range - and enable TV's Ultra HD Deep Color for appropriate HDMI input). I have seen unusual ghosting at times with games, but only if the TV's 3D mode has been Enabled (some type of software screen compensation?). This ghosting persists until the TV's power is cycled (not disabled by 3D button), returning to normal EDID display.

With the EDID mod, the Desktop is forced to 3840x2160, and 3D Vision's Optimized for NVIDIA GeForce mode directly provides the interleaved 3D input - TV simply displays interleaved signal.

By the way, the Control Panel's stereo test mode does NOT work with this EDID mod under Windows 10 - but it does work correctly under Windows 8.1 and 7.

The forced 3840x2160 Desktop creates a performance issue for some games where the in-game scaling does not work correctly with the EDID mod - see https://forums.geforce.com/default/topic/935077/3d-vision/if-3d-vision-could-output-4k-resolution-60-hz-would-one-get-3d-picture-from-4k-tv-equal-to-1080p-1/post/4876499/#4876499 for more discussion.

#2
Posted 05/22/2016 01:46 PM   
Thanks for the info, it will come in handy! I'm not using an EDID overrides or anything at the moment, partly because I'm using a long HDMI cable (PC is in a different room) and higher resolutions won't work with it. Just using basic 3dtv play, so I'm using the built in TV 3d modes. Through the years and having various displays, DLP is the only tech that I've seen that really approaches 'no' crosstalk. I'm used to reading reviews of LCD screens that say 'no crosstalk' but the reality of course it that it's still present, but I wasn't expecting this much with OLED. I can put some pictures up, was just after others experiences as I've heard one person on AVFORUMS/AVSFORUMS say that they had a badly aligned FPR that spoilt 3d, so I wonder if I'm unlucky or it it's normal.
Thanks for the info, it will come in handy!

I'm not using an EDID overrides or anything at the moment, partly because I'm using a long HDMI cable (PC is in a different room) and higher resolutions won't work with it.

Just using basic 3dtv play, so I'm using the built in TV 3d modes. Through the years and having various displays, DLP is the only tech that I've seen that really approaches 'no' crosstalk.

I'm used to reading reviews of LCD screens that say 'no crosstalk' but the reality of course it that it's still present, but I wasn't expecting this much with OLED.

I can put some pictures up, was just after others experiences as I've heard one person on AVFORUMS/AVSFORUMS say that they had a badly aligned FPR that spoilt 3d, so I wonder if I'm unlucky or it it's normal.

GTX 1070 SLI, I7-6700k ~ 4.4Ghz, 3x BenQ XL2420T, BenQ TK800, LG 55EG960V (3D OLED), Samsung 850 EVO SSD, Crucial M4 SSD, 3D vision kit, Xpand x104 glasses, Corsair HX1000i, Win 10 pro 64/Win 7 64https://www.3dmark.com/fs/9529310

#3
Posted 05/22/2016 02:00 PM   
When you move your PC and display closer to each other, I suggest getting 4K certified HDMI cable (not all HDMI cables are equivalent), also. I have very little crosstalk with my setup - very pleased with it, except for the GPU performance required to support it.
When you move your PC and display closer to each other, I suggest getting 4K certified HDMI cable (not all HDMI cables are equivalent), also.

I have very little crosstalk with my setup - very pleased with it, except for the GPU performance required to support it.

#4
Posted 05/22/2016 03:58 PM   
[quote="whyme466"]I suggest getting 4K certified HDMI cable (not all HDMI cables are equivalent), also.[/quote] HDMI.org in it's infinite wisdom decided that it wasn't a good idea to label cables with compatible version numbers. So your choices are "HDMI High Speed" or "HDMI High Speed with Ethernet" http://www.hdmi.org/learningcenter/trademark_logo_pub.aspx "Effective January 1, 2012, all HDMI products cannot make any reference to HDMI version numbers" [img]http://www.blueechoav.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/hdmi-standards.jpg[/img] http://www.hdmi.org/consumer/finding_right_cable.aspx So the best that you can do is diligently read through the reviews to find a quality cable. Especially since there are so many unlicensed vendors that make them look pretty at the cost of functionality.
whyme466 said:I suggest getting 4K certified HDMI cable (not all HDMI cables are equivalent), also.


HDMI.org in it's infinite wisdom decided that it wasn't a good idea to label cables with compatible version numbers. So your choices are "HDMI High Speed" or "HDMI High Speed with Ethernet"


http://www.hdmi.org/learningcenter/trademark_logo_pub.aspx


"Effective January 1, 2012, all HDMI products cannot make any reference to HDMI version numbers"

Image


http://www.hdmi.org/consumer/finding_right_cable.aspx


So the best that you can do is diligently read through the reviews to find a quality cable. Especially since there are so many unlicensed vendors that make them look pretty at the cost of functionality.

#5
Posted 05/22/2016 04:43 PM   
Those high speed, high speed with etehernet. 1.4, 1.3 are total bullshit. atleast my knoledge is the pinout is same in all of them, and i have not heard about cables that could have less lines in them. but the main thing that matters is the BANDWITH. it´s not enough it says 1.4 Find out the what the bandwith is and get the biggest available
Those high speed, high speed with etehernet. 1.4, 1.3 are total bullshit.
atleast my knoledge is the pinout is same in all of them, and i have not heard about cables
that could have less lines in them.
but the main thing that matters is the BANDWITH.
it´s not enough it says 1.4
Find out the what the bandwith is and get the biggest available

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#6
Posted 05/22/2016 08:52 PM   
It more about Ohm's Law and compression formats than anything.
It more about Ohm's Law and compression formats than anything.

#7
Posted 05/22/2016 09:44 PM   
HDMI is Digital, so it's 1 or 0, it will just work or not, nevertheless the cable, the quality will be exactly the same. Put some money into HDMI cable will let you use longer cable. Any High Speed cable is enough. LG TV use polarized filter from the panel, you need to be in front of the screen, not up, not down, and do not rotate youre head ! Use my pattern video test to set the best 3D quality: (see YT description) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MqpXQVkiJic
HDMI is Digital, so it's 1 or 0, it will just work or not, nevertheless the cable, the quality will be exactly the same. Put some money into HDMI cable will let you use longer cable. Any High Speed cable is enough.

LG TV use polarized filter from the panel, you need to be in front of the screen, not up, not down, and do not rotate youre head !

Use my pattern video test to set the best 3D quality: (see YT description)
[quote="Dugom"]HDMI is Digital, so it's 1 or 0, it will just work or not[/quote] oh, you're one of those guys
Dugom said:HDMI is Digital, so it's 1 or 0, it will just work or not


oh, you're one of those guys

#9
Posted 05/24/2016 10:41 PM   
Hi Dugom, Thanks for the reply, I only just put 2 and 2 together and realised it was you that created that video! It's quite a savage test, my results don't look that great although on other tests the TV performs well. I'll try and attach my pics then edit so it so that you can see them inline. *edit* Failing miserably to attach anything. Using Windows 10, Chrome or Edge, click on attach and nothing happens. Any ideas?
Hi Dugom,

Thanks for the reply, I only just put 2 and 2 together and realised it was you that created that video!
It's quite a savage test, my results don't look that great although on other tests the TV performs well.

I'll try and attach my pics then edit so it so that you can see them inline.

*edit* Failing miserably to attach anything. Using Windows 10, Chrome or Edge, click on attach and nothing happens. Any ideas?

GTX 1070 SLI, I7-6700k ~ 4.4Ghz, 3x BenQ XL2420T, BenQ TK800, LG 55EG960V (3D OLED), Samsung 850 EVO SSD, Crucial M4 SSD, 3D vision kit, Xpand x104 glasses, Corsair HX1000i, Win 10 pro 64/Win 7 64https://www.3dmark.com/fs/9529310

#10
Posted 05/25/2016 02:55 PM   
Easy: http://postimage.org
[quote="D-Man11"][quote="Dugom"]HDMI is Digital, so it's 1 or 0, it will just work or not[/quote] oh, you're one of those guys[/quote]Yes, you can use a 300€ cable, or 2€ not golden cable the quality will be exactly the same. Even with a 15 meters belkin at 300, you'll loose the signal, exactly like a noname at 50€, you just have to use an HDMI distribution amplifier, no need to put thousands € for a digital cable here. Digital cables have no loss. .
D-Man11 said:
Dugom said:HDMI is Digital, so it's 1 or 0, it will just work or not

oh, you're one of those guys
Yes, you can use a 300€ cable, or 2€ not golden cable the quality will be exactly the same. Even with a 15 meters belkin at 300, you'll loose the signal, exactly like a noname at 50€, you just have to use an HDMI distribution amplifier, no need to put thousands € for a digital cable here. Digital cables have no loss.


.
Ok, here's my attempt to add bunny test results [url=http://postimg.org/image/dlji4ixm3/][img]http://s33.postimg.org/dlji4ixm3/left_eye_on_hite_20160524_232441.jpg[/img][/url] [url=http://postimg.org/image/vjwplj2y3/][img]http://s33.postimg.org/vjwplj2y3/left_eye_on_something_20160524_232430.jpg[/img][/url] [url=http://postimg.org/image/64kejjkq3/][img]http://s33.postimg.org/64kejjkq3/grey_or_white_4_20160524_232454.jpg[/img][/url] Bunny test resutls look poor, but like I said, normal 3d films etc. look fine. Here are the results from the 'numbers' test which I've seen around, they don't seem too bad to me. [url=http://postimg.org/image/pesc5q4kr/][img]http://s33.postimg.org/pesc5q4kr/left_eye_2_20160524_232841.jpg[/img][/url] [url=http://postimg.org/image/jlj77wqsr/][img]http://s33.postimg.org/jlj77wqsr/right_eye_2_20160524_232901.jpg[/img][/url] I haven't adjusted contract or brightness or tried to calibrate the TV yet.
Ok, here's my attempt to add bunny test results



Image

Image

Image

Bunny test resutls look poor, but like I said, normal 3d films etc. look fine.


Here are the results from the 'numbers' test which I've seen around, they don't seem too bad to me.


Image

Image


I haven't adjusted contract or brightness or tried to calibrate the TV yet.

GTX 1070 SLI, I7-6700k ~ 4.4Ghz, 3x BenQ XL2420T, BenQ TK800, LG 55EG960V (3D OLED), Samsung 850 EVO SSD, Crucial M4 SSD, 3D vision kit, Xpand x104 glasses, Corsair HX1000i, Win 10 pro 64/Win 7 64https://www.3dmark.com/fs/9529310

#13
Posted 05/26/2016 01:40 PM   
Movies have very very very very low separations, it wont be a real problem, you'll see the crosstalk on subtitles and low detail scene. But for gaming, it will be bad. You can test my 3D games videos from YT, they are set with 95% sparation for 55". Anyway, you always can play with poor separation (low 3D) to avoid the problem. Bigger the screen, less separation are needed. I've tested the LG 55EF9500 (EF950V) OLED 4K 3D, it seems OK in 3D. I realy recommend to set your TV with my rabbit.
Movies have very very very very low separations, it wont be a real problem, you'll see the crosstalk on subtitles and low detail scene.

But for gaming, it will be bad. You can test my 3D games videos from YT, they are set with 95% sparation for 55". Anyway, you always can play with poor separation (low 3D) to avoid the problem. Bigger the screen, less separation are needed.

I've tested the LG 55EF9500 (EF950V) OLED 4K 3D, it seems OK in 3D. I realy recommend to set your TV with my rabbit.
[quote="Dugom"]HDMI is Digital, so it's 1 or 0, it will just work or not[/quote] [quote="D-Man11"]oh, you're one of those guys[/quote] [quote="Dugom"]Yes, you can use a 300€ cable, or 2€ not golden cable the quality will be exactly the same. Even with a 15 meters belkin at 300, you'll loose the signal, exactly like a noname at 50€, you just have to use an HDMI distribution amplifier, no need to put thousands € for a digital cable here. Digital cables have no loss.[/quote] HDMI uses TMDS (transition-minimized differential signaling ), it's sends - and + signals, while it is a digital signal, the 1s and 0s are changed around. Prior to sending, 8 bit is changed into a 10 bit code for to minimize transitions during transmission, this helps reduce noise and EMI. There are crappy $5 cables and crappy $300 cables, as you've said price doesn't mean a good cable. What makes a good quality cable is following strict manufacturing processes. So yah, if it's simply not working, it's not working. But if it's working, doesn't always translate into it's working flawlessly. Poorly constructed cables can have a video image due to the robustness of TMDS handling but can present their shortcomings in other areas such as EDID, HDCP or audio issues via the DDC line. So simply having a functioning picture "DOES NOT" translate into a good cable.
Dugom said:HDMI is Digital, so it's 1 or 0, it will just work or not


D-Man11 said:oh, you're one of those guys

Dugom said:Yes, you can use a 300€ cable, or 2€ not golden cable the quality will be exactly the same. Even with a 15 meters belkin at 300, you'll loose the signal, exactly like a noname at 50€, you just have to use an HDMI distribution amplifier, no need to put thousands € for a digital cable here. Digital cables have no loss.


HDMI uses TMDS (transition-minimized differential signaling ), it's sends - and + signals, while it is a digital signal, the 1s and 0s are changed around. Prior to sending, 8 bit is changed into a 10 bit code for to minimize transitions during transmission, this helps reduce noise and EMI.

There are crappy $5 cables and crappy $300 cables, as you've said price doesn't mean a good cable.

What makes a good quality cable is following strict manufacturing processes.

So yah, if it's simply not working, it's not working.

But if it's working, doesn't always translate into it's working flawlessly. Poorly constructed cables can have a video image due to the robustness of TMDS handling but can present their shortcomings in other areas such as EDID, HDCP or audio issues via the DDC line.

So simply having a functioning picture "DOES NOT" translate into a good cable.

#15
Posted 05/26/2016 05:11 PM   
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