vga glasses and dvi monitor forced output
  2 / 2    
Hi sevenkev,

It is great your projector works well without pin 7 - it makes things much simpler.

The quick and dirty method:

Get a piece of thin wire with plastic outer casing. the thinner the better. Cut off about 4mm of the covering plastic to reveal the inner cores:

[url="http://www.hitechcontrols.com/images/cable/single_cores/pvc_single_cores/LiY.jpg"]http://www.hitechcontrols.com/images/cable...e_cores/LiY.jpg[/url]

Now insert this cores into pin 7 female connection on the graphics port making sure that no bare wire remains outside (to short against other pins).

Now carefully plug in the DVI cable, being careful to not move the wire you just put in.

Now you have a fully functioning DVI connection to the projector and a DDC signal for your glasses on your wire coming from pin 7. Probably best at this point to test with a volt meter or an LED (Thanks Likay!) to make sure a signal is there when you turn stereo on. It should and will be :)

Now. I sincerely hope you have wireless glasses...

Taking as an example ED wireless glasses, you have a dongle, an emitter, and finally the glasses.

Forget about the dongle. Look at the emitter, and where it usually plugs into the dongle. You will see 3 pins... One is +5v, one is ground, and one is signal. The signal pin takes the signal from the wire you put into pin 7 directly without the need for a dongle. Connect them up :P

Now, the best place to get +5v and 0v for the other 2 pins is a USB port. Just cut up a USB cable and tap the power:

[url="http://beale.best.vwh.net/measure/USB/USB-cable-wiring.png"]http://beale.best.vwh.net/measure/USB/USB-cable-wiring.png[/url]

Connect these 2 up.

You may prefer to cut your ED transmitter wire for better access. If you choose to do that, then White is signal, Red is +5, Black is 0v.

Thats it!

Fire up a game and your glasses should work perfectly.

I hope your DLP is compatible with stereo. Please let me know how it goes. If you see blue or red ghosting, then we can sort that too.

If everything works, you are in for a heck of an experience... half-life 2 will blow your mind! :D

For a more permanent solution, you could splice a DVI cable and solder the emitter wire directly to here and a spliced USB cable for power.

You might get a slight colour tint on the DLP if the refresh sis higher than 60.
If you find the glasses go out of sync with the image every few seconds, ie the sync goes in and out (you will know what i mean if you see it) then try playing around with other refresh rates and settings to see if you can fix it. If you can't then i'm afraid the projector is incompatible with stereo...

Out of curiosity, what projector is it?

All the best,
-- Shahzad.
Hi sevenkev,



It is great your projector works well without pin 7 - it makes things much simpler.



The quick and dirty method:



Get a piece of thin wire with plastic outer casing. the thinner the better. Cut off about 4mm of the covering plastic to reveal the inner cores:



http://www.hitechcontrols.com/images/cable...e_cores/LiY.jpg



Now insert this cores into pin 7 female connection on the graphics port making sure that no bare wire remains outside (to short against other pins).



Now carefully plug in the DVI cable, being careful to not move the wire you just put in.



Now you have a fully functioning DVI connection to the projector and a DDC signal for your glasses on your wire coming from pin 7. Probably best at this point to test with a volt meter or an LED (Thanks Likay!) to make sure a signal is there when you turn stereo on. It should and will be :)



Now. I sincerely hope you have wireless glasses...



Taking as an example ED wireless glasses, you have a dongle, an emitter, and finally the glasses.



Forget about the dongle. Look at the emitter, and where it usually plugs into the dongle. You will see 3 pins... One is +5v, one is ground, and one is signal. The signal pin takes the signal from the wire you put into pin 7 directly without the need for a dongle. Connect them up :P



Now, the best place to get +5v and 0v for the other 2 pins is a USB port. Just cut up a USB cable and tap the power:



http://beale.best.vwh.net/measure/USB/USB-cable-wiring.png



Connect these 2 up.



You may prefer to cut your ED transmitter wire for better access. If you choose to do that, then White is signal, Red is +5, Black is 0v.



Thats it!



Fire up a game and your glasses should work perfectly.



I hope your DLP is compatible with stereo. Please let me know how it goes. If you see blue or red ghosting, then we can sort that too.



If everything works, you are in for a heck of an experience... half-life 2 will blow your mind! :D



For a more permanent solution, you could splice a DVI cable and solder the emitter wire directly to here and a spliced USB cable for power.



You might get a slight colour tint on the DLP if the refresh sis higher than 60.

If you find the glasses go out of sync with the image every few seconds, ie the sync goes in and out (you will know what i mean if you see it) then try playing around with other refresh rates and settings to see if you can fix it. If you can't then i'm afraid the projector is incompatible with stereo...



Out of curiosity, what projector is it?



All the best,

-- Shahzad.

Windows 10 64-bit, Intel 7700K @ 5.1GHz, 16GB 3600MHz CL15 DDR4 RAM, 2x GTX 1080 SLI, Asus Maximus IX Hero, Sound Blaster ZxR, PCIe Quad SSD, Oculus Rift CV1, DLP Link PGD-150 glasses, ViewSonic PJD6531w 3D DLP Projector @ 1280x800 120Hz native / 2560x1600 120Hz DSR 3D Gaming.

#16
Posted 02/29/2008 02:44 AM   
Wow, thanks alot! I very much appreciate your time here, this project has been almost a year in the making (and buying). This makes so much more sense now and, more importantly, it works! Well almost...

Rather than connecting the signal pin directly to the graphics card, I connected it directly to the projector where the dvi cable plugs in (pin 7). Would this have any effect on the timing of the signal pulse - is there any difference splicing at the beginning or the end of the cable?

I ask because there is a tremendous amount of flicker. Both in games and within the NVIDIA test application. Is this a result of the 60hz maximum refresh? On my crt monitor the 60hz looked fine.

My projector is an Optoma HD72. I chose this projector by researching starting at the below two links.
[url="http://www.3dmovielist.com/projectors.html"]www.3dmovielist.com/projectors.html[/url]
[url="http://www.cmst.curtin.edu.au/publicat/2007-05.pdf"]www.cmst.curtin.edu.au/publicat/2007-05.pdf[/url]

Also Andrew Wood, the tester, noted that the Optoma HD72 was a standout in pageflipped 3d projection, as is stated in his post here: [url="http://www.stereo3d.com/cgi-bin/discus/show.cgi?tpc=3177&post=24488#POST24488"]Post[/url]

So I'm a bit stumped as to how to troubleshoot this. To correct myself this projector will not work without the pin 7 initially. Rather than install a switch I just ran the splicing wire into the same socket that the cable wire for pin 7 enters. So the signal on pin 7 is going into the projector and into the wireless ir dongle at the same time. Would this make a difference in the signal? As always, any direction here will be immensely appreciated and thanks so much!
Wow, thanks alot! I very much appreciate your time here, this project has been almost a year in the making (and buying). This makes so much more sense now and, more importantly, it works! Well almost...



Rather than connecting the signal pin directly to the graphics card, I connected it directly to the projector where the dvi cable plugs in (pin 7). Would this have any effect on the timing of the signal pulse - is there any difference splicing at the beginning or the end of the cable?



I ask because there is a tremendous amount of flicker. Both in games and within the NVIDIA test application. Is this a result of the 60hz maximum refresh? On my crt monitor the 60hz looked fine.



My projector is an Optoma HD72. I chose this projector by researching starting at the below two links.

www.3dmovielist.com/projectors.html

www.cmst.curtin.edu.au/publicat/2007-05.pdf



Also Andrew Wood, the tester, noted that the Optoma HD72 was a standout in pageflipped 3d projection, as is stated in his post here: Post



So I'm a bit stumped as to how to troubleshoot this. To correct myself this projector will not work without the pin 7 initially. Rather than install a switch I just ran the splicing wire into the same socket that the cable wire for pin 7 enters. So the signal on pin 7 is going into the projector and into the wireless ir dongle at the same time. Would this make a difference in the signal? As always, any direction here will be immensely appreciated and thanks so much!

#17
Posted 03/04/2008 08:59 PM   
Hi sevenkev,

You are very welcome my friend.

Can I ask you one thing please? can you explain what kind of flicker it is?

There is refresh rate based flicker which is just constantly flickery picture. Then there is intermittent flicker where the glasses desync from the screen every few seconds or every short while and then sync up again.

The former, you just have to live with I'm afraid. I find that with normal gaming heavy flicker is only apparent during bright scenes. You can try upping the refresh to 85 to see if that helps if the projector natively supports it i.e. the colour wheel syncs up to 85 Hz. I find that my projector produces a slight tint in each eye bt there is noticeably less flicker.

The second one can be fixed with a circuit i made a while back... I can link to it if that is what it seems like.

It doesn't make a difference which side of the cable you connect it. I suggested the graphics card because it is usually far less expensive than a projector if somethign was to go wrong :P

If its the second type of flicker, then it is possible as you say that the voltage is borderline which is causing the flicker. Only one way to find out ;-)

-- Shahzad.
Hi sevenkev,



You are very welcome my friend.



Can I ask you one thing please? can you explain what kind of flicker it is?



There is refresh rate based flicker which is just constantly flickery picture. Then there is intermittent flicker where the glasses desync from the screen every few seconds or every short while and then sync up again.



The former, you just have to live with I'm afraid. I find that with normal gaming heavy flicker is only apparent during bright scenes. You can try upping the refresh to 85 to see if that helps if the projector natively supports it i.e. the colour wheel syncs up to 85 Hz. I find that my projector produces a slight tint in each eye bt there is noticeably less flicker.



The second one can be fixed with a circuit i made a while back... I can link to it if that is what it seems like.



It doesn't make a difference which side of the cable you connect it. I suggested the graphics card because it is usually far less expensive than a projector if somethign was to go wrong :P



If its the second type of flicker, then it is possible as you say that the voltage is borderline which is causing the flicker. Only one way to find out ;-)



-- Shahzad.

Windows 10 64-bit, Intel 7700K @ 5.1GHz, 16GB 3600MHz CL15 DDR4 RAM, 2x GTX 1080 SLI, Asus Maximus IX Hero, Sound Blaster ZxR, PCIe Quad SSD, Oculus Rift CV1, DLP Link PGD-150 glasses, ViewSonic PJD6531w 3D DLP Projector @ 1280x800 120Hz native / 2560x1600 120Hz DSR 3D Gaming.

#18
Posted 03/04/2008 09:47 PM   
  2 / 2    
Scroll To Top