Can only play at minimal depth
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Did you tried this tools? https://forums.geforce.com/default/topic/930853/ Or this: http://helixmod.blogspot.fr/2015/10/advanced-3d-vision-configuration.html
That's normal, the MonitorSize Registry Value is doubled, 54 = a 27" Monitor so you're fairly close to what it would use... This will override the MonitorSize setting... [url]https://forums.geforce.com/default/topic/930853/[/url] ...but I'm not sure that's really the issue here, it seems like it may be crosstalk either due to something not being setup properly or you're extremely sensitive to it? What is the exact make/model of the monitor you're using? ...and what make/model is the EDID override for?
That's normal, the MonitorSize Registry Value is doubled, 54 = a 27" Monitor so you're fairly close to what it would use...

This will override the MonitorSize setting...
https://forums.geforce.com/default/topic/930853/

...but I'm not sure that's really the issue here, it seems like it may be crosstalk either due to something not being setup properly or you're extremely sensitive to it?

What is the exact make/model of the monitor you're using? ...and what make/model is the EDID override for?
#17
Posted 08/31/2016 09:24 PM   
Sorry for the late reply and huge thanks for the links/input. The last couple of days something happened. I played AC Black Flag and gave it another shot: For the first time ever I could truly see this game in 3D. I was able to bump up depth to 50% and the result was stunning. I have no idea why this suddenly worked so perfectly. However the joy didn't last very long. For about 2 days I could play in 3D. Cause it was working great I dug out some 3D-SBS movie and tried that, also working ok. But after switching back from SBS to the "normal" setting, I couldn't get the game working in 3D anymore. I mean stereo was technically working, but that old, extreme crosstalk was back in AC Black Flag. I tweaked settings around for hours, but couldn't get it back. The crosstalk is so extreme, you can see it with the naked eye, it's like 4 images. I have no idea how to get it back, the TV has no settings for this (and I didn't change any settings). There's: - "Normal 2D mode" (basically 3D off) - "2D -> 3D conversion" (TV interpolation based) - "3D SBS" - "3D Top Bottom" - "3D Line interlaced" (that never worked and is technically the same as 3D off, except you can't adjust brightness contrast etc any more. Doesn't matter, cause it never worked) Within the 3D modes I have a very barebone menu that lets me adjust depth and left/right, the first one not doing much. I played around with those, but no chance at all. Any idea how to get it back? Where and what to look for? EDIT: The screen is an LG 32LA6136 32" passive/polarized
Sorry for the late reply and huge thanks for the links/input.

The last couple of days something happened. I played AC Black Flag and gave it another shot:
For the first time ever I could truly see this game in 3D. I was able to bump up depth to 50% and the result was stunning. I have no idea why this suddenly worked so perfectly.

However the joy didn't last very long. For about 2 days I could play in 3D. Cause it was working great I dug out some 3D-SBS movie and tried that, also working ok. But after switching back from SBS to the "normal" setting, I couldn't get the game working in 3D anymore.

I mean stereo was technically working, but that old, extreme crosstalk was back in AC Black Flag. I tweaked settings around for hours, but couldn't get it back. The crosstalk is so extreme, you can see it with the naked eye, it's like 4 images.

I have no idea how to get it back, the TV has no settings for this (and I didn't change any settings). There's:
- "Normal 2D mode" (basically 3D off)
- "2D -> 3D conversion" (TV interpolation based)
- "3D SBS"
- "3D Top Bottom"
- "3D Line interlaced" (that never worked and is technically the same as 3D off, except you can't adjust brightness contrast etc any more. Doesn't matter, cause it never worked)
Within the 3D modes I have a very barebone menu that lets me adjust depth and left/right, the first one not doing much. I played around with those, but no chance at all.

Any idea how to get it back? Where and what to look for?

EDIT: The screen is an LG 32LA6136 32" passive/polarized

#18
Posted 09/04/2016 08:33 PM   
Glad to hear you got a chance to see it for real. Now you know what I meant by something being broken. Since you are seeing 4 images with the naked eye, that means the problem is software based. That's not crosstalk by the way, that's just broken. Crosstalk is only ever two images. If you have not already done so, you absolutely MUST reinstall your driver using the DDU tool to cleanly install.
Glad to hear you got a chance to see it for real. Now you know what I meant by something being broken.

Since you are seeing 4 images with the naked eye, that means the problem is software based. That's not crosstalk by the way, that's just broken. Crosstalk is only ever two images.


If you have not already done so, you absolutely MUST reinstall your driver using the DDU tool to cleanly install.

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#19
Posted 09/05/2016 01:17 AM   
[quote="bo3b"]Glad to hear you got a chance to see it for real. Now you know what I meant by something being broken. Since you are seeing 4 images with the naked eye, that means the problem is software based. That's not crosstalk by the way, that's just broken. Crosstalk is only ever two images. If you have not already done so, you absolutely MUST reinstall your driver using the DDU tool to cleanly install. [/quote] Thanks for the hint, I have to reinstall in a couple of days anyway but wouldn't have thought of the DDU. So big thanks again. I eagerly hope that my bank account manager is still on vacation cause I couldn't resist any more and ordered myself a 1080. Credit limit reached. What have I done, I'm sure they gonna come and break my legs. OMG why.
bo3b said:Glad to hear you got a chance to see it for real. Now you know what I meant by something being broken.

Since you are seeing 4 images with the naked eye, that means the problem is software based. That's not crosstalk by the way, that's just broken. Crosstalk is only ever two images.


If you have not already done so, you absolutely MUST reinstall your driver using the DDU tool to cleanly install.


Thanks for the hint, I have to reinstall in a couple of days anyway but wouldn't have thought of the DDU. So big thanks again.

I eagerly hope that my bank account manager is still on vacation cause I couldn't resist any more and ordered myself a 1080. Credit limit reached. What have I done, I'm sure they gonna come and break my legs. OMG why.

#20
Posted 09/05/2016 06:48 PM   
[quote="frMage"]But after switching back from SBS to the "normal" setting, I couldn't get the game working in 3D anymore. I mean stereo was technically working, but that old, extreme crosstalk was back in AC Black Flag. I tweaked settings around for hours, but couldn't get it back. The crosstalk is so extreme, you can see it with the naked eye, it's like 4 images.[/quote]What is Normal Mode? Is it "Normal 2D Mode"... if it is I'm pretty sure that's the problem. I don't think 3D is just going to kick in like some other TVs, this is a TV, right? You need to be in a 3D Mode, since 3D Vision/TV Play doesn't support SBS or TnB it would have to be 3D Line Interlaced Mode. Another thing is since you're using a 27" EDID I'm assuming it's a monitor's EDID and not a TV's I'm not sure if this could pose a problem or not, I have no experience with passive 3D setups... but like I said I'm not sure so it may be fine... [quote="frMage"]I have no idea how to get it back, the TV has no settings for this (and I didn't change any settings). There's: - "Normal 2D mode" (basically 3D off) - "2D -> 3D conversion" (TV interpolation based) - "3D SBS" - "3D Top Bottom" - "3D Line interlaced" (that never worked and is technically the same as 3D off, except you can't adjust brightness contrast etc any more. Doesn't matter, cause it never worked) Within the 3D modes I have a very barebone menu that lets me adjust depth and left/right, the first one not doing much. I played around with those, but no chance at all.[/quote]Once 3D is working properly you won't want to be adjusting 3D settings on the TV itself, other than to reset them back to Off/0/Nul. All the 3D settings will be adjusted on the PC itself in 3D Vision using it's keyboard settings. Just to clarify things, when you said you adjusted 3D to 50% that was in-game using the hotkeys? Ctrl+F3 or F4? If it was on the TV then you were in 2D > 3D Conversion Mode...
frMage said:But after switching back from SBS to the "normal" setting, I couldn't get the game working in 3D anymore.

I mean stereo was technically working, but that old, extreme crosstalk was back in AC Black Flag. I tweaked settings around for hours, but couldn't get it back. The crosstalk is so extreme, you can see it with the naked eye, it's like 4 images.
What is Normal Mode? Is it "Normal 2D Mode"... if it is I'm pretty sure that's the problem. I don't think 3D is just going to kick in like some other TVs, this is a TV, right?

You need to be in a 3D Mode, since 3D Vision/TV Play doesn't support SBS or TnB it would have to be 3D Line Interlaced Mode.

Another thing is since you're using a 27" EDID I'm assuming it's a monitor's EDID and not a TV's I'm not sure if this could pose a problem or not, I have no experience with passive 3D setups... but like I said I'm not sure so it may be fine...

frMage said:I have no idea how to get it back, the TV has no settings for this (and I didn't change any settings). There's:
- "Normal 2D mode" (basically 3D off)
- "2D -> 3D conversion" (TV interpolation based)
- "3D SBS"
- "3D Top Bottom"
- "3D Line interlaced" (that never worked and is technically the same as 3D off, except you can't adjust brightness contrast etc any more. Doesn't matter, cause it never worked)
Within the 3D modes I have a very barebone menu that lets me adjust depth and left/right, the first one not doing much. I played around with those, but no chance at all.
Once 3D is working properly you won't want to be adjusting 3D settings on the TV itself, other than to reset them back to Off/0/Nul. All the 3D settings will be adjusted on the PC itself in 3D Vision using it's keyboard settings.

Just to clarify things, when you said you adjusted 3D to 50% that was in-game using the hotkeys? Ctrl+F3 or F4? If it was on the TV then you were in 2D > 3D Conversion Mode...
#21
Posted 09/06/2016 01:07 PM   
Thanks for your input, TsaebehT. But the story turned out the other way: 1.) I found and used some test images from 3dvision blog - left black or white, right an actual image. It's a pretty good ghosting test. The result was shocking. I (as well as many other commenters on the blog) had extreme ghosting. I tried the test with various source devices, shield tablet, laptop and pc, always the exact same result. Which rules out any driver issue at that point. It's an extreme test, but I could see the complete right image over the supposedly left black image. Yet it pointed me into a direction. I sat down with the test images and started to play with all kinds of settings of the TV, brightness, contrast, dynamic contrast, sharpness (h- and v- separately), younameit. I could improve the result a ton - there was still ghosting but at least you could see this damn thing is working and separating the left and right channel. 2.) I have a passive, polarized display. That means yes, I don't necessarily NEED to switch in a 3d mode, every other line of the display is polarized the other way, it's a pure physical effect. That doesn't mean there CANNOT be a 3D mode, not only to support and transform different formats (SBS etc.) into that line-by-line format, but also maybe do some post-processing or just do, what I made manually in step 1. 3.) Again the 2D mode is also a "3D mode", it's just not an explicit 3D mode. I think things won't get any better, cause the actual 3D modes like SBS (this is where I also made the previous test) may do some post-pro of the signal, but it doesn't help much. On the other hand, once one of the 3D modes is active, the TV refused to adjust certain settings like brightness and contrast, so no further adjustments here. Just for completeness: there really isn't a line-interlaced mode on this thing. What I thought was a line-interlaced mode actually is frame-packed mode. In conclusion I was able to move a big step forward. I can play almost free of ghosting, except in some situations, like with a small dark object in front of a bright sky. This still bothers me quite a bit, on the other hand polarized setups are harder to get these days and the advertised "crosstalk can't happen on polarized" turned out to be false, when I believe the huge amount of comments I read from people with polarized screens. One more thing I going to try, against all odds, is buying some other polarized glasses. The pair from LG is super-cheap plastic crap and I wouldn't be surprised if it's part of the problem. Still all suggestions are welcome. Things can only get better!
Thanks for your input, TsaebehT.

But the story turned out the other way:

1.) I found and used some test images from 3dvision blog - left black or white, right an actual image. It's a pretty good ghosting test. The result was shocking. I (as well as many other commenters on the blog) had extreme ghosting. I tried the test with various source devices, shield tablet, laptop and pc, always the exact same result. Which rules out any driver issue at that point.

It's an extreme test, but I could see the complete right image over the supposedly left black image. Yet it pointed me into a direction. I sat down with the test images and started to play with all kinds of settings of the TV, brightness, contrast, dynamic contrast, sharpness (h- and v- separately), younameit. I could improve the result a ton - there was still ghosting but at least you could see this damn thing is working and separating the left and right channel.

2.) I have a passive, polarized display. That means yes, I don't necessarily NEED to switch in a 3d mode, every other line of the display is polarized the other way, it's a pure physical effect.
That doesn't mean there CANNOT be a 3D mode, not only to support and transform different formats (SBS etc.) into that line-by-line format, but also maybe do some post-processing or just do, what I made manually in step 1.

3.) Again the 2D mode is also a "3D mode", it's just not an explicit 3D mode. I think things won't get any better, cause the actual 3D modes like SBS (this is where I also made the previous test) may do some post-pro of the signal, but it doesn't help much. On the other hand, once one of the 3D modes is active, the TV refused to adjust certain settings like brightness and contrast, so no further adjustments here. Just for completeness: there really isn't a line-interlaced mode on this thing. What I thought was a line-interlaced mode actually is frame-packed mode.

In conclusion I was able to move a big step forward. I can play almost free of ghosting, except in some situations, like with a small dark object in front of a bright sky. This still bothers me quite a bit, on the other hand polarized setups are harder to get these days and the advertised "crosstalk can't happen on polarized" turned out to be false, when I believe the huge amount of comments I read from people with polarized screens.

One more thing I going to try, against all odds, is buying some other polarized glasses. The pair from LG is super-cheap plastic crap and I wouldn't be surprised if it's part of the problem.

Still all suggestions are welcome. Things can only get better!

#22
Posted 09/07/2016 06:35 PM   
Yeah I don't know, I wish you luck with it... I still think something's off, especially where it just kicked in an looked really good all of a sudden and now it's requiring all this tweaking. Definitely try a clean/DDU install, like bo3b mentioned, if you haven't... 3D Vision/Drive installs have been know to get all wonky on us from time to time. I'd make sure you're outputting in a correct format that will not only switch the TV into 3D mode(listed in your manual) but also enable 3D Vision, if you're using the a certain HDMI monitor's EDID then you'll need to set the resolutiont to 720p50/60...
Yeah I don't know, I wish you luck with it... I still think something's off, especially where it just kicked in an looked really good all of a sudden and now it's requiring all this tweaking.

Definitely try a clean/DDU install, like bo3b mentioned, if you haven't... 3D Vision/Drive installs have been know to get all wonky on us from time to time.

I'd make sure you're outputting in a correct format that will not only switch the TV into 3D mode(listed in your manual) but also enable 3D Vision, if you're using the a certain HDMI monitor's EDID then you'll need to set the resolutiont to 720p50/60...
#23
Posted 09/07/2016 07:58 PM   
I don't think we make any further informed suggestions, unless you show us with a photograph what you are seeing. There is too much rubbish on the internet- like people saying polarized has no ghosting. That's not even close. Post some snapshots of what you see with the naked eye, and then through the lenses. Use something completely simple and known good like the NVidia 3D Photo Viewer, or their Test Stereoscopic 3D from the Control Panel.
I don't think we make any further informed suggestions, unless you show us with a photograph what you are seeing.

There is too much rubbish on the internet- like people saying polarized has no ghosting. That's not even close.


Post some snapshots of what you see with the naked eye, and then through the lenses. Use something completely simple and known good like the NVidia 3D Photo Viewer, or their Test Stereoscopic 3D from the Control Panel.

Acer H5360 (1280x720@120Hz) - ASUS VG248QE with GSync mod - 3D Vision 1&2 - Driver 372.54
GTX 970 - i5-4670K@4.2GHz - 12GB RAM - Win7x64+evilKB2670838 - 4 Disk X25 RAID
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#24
Posted 09/07/2016 10:20 PM   
[quote="TsaebehT"]Yeah I don't know, I wish you luck with it... I still think something's off, especially where it just kicked in an looked really good all of a sudden and now it's requiring all this tweaking. Definitely try a clean/DDU install, like bo3b mentioned, if you haven't... 3D Vision/Drive installs have been know to get all wonky on us from time to time. I'd make sure you're outputting in a correct format that will not only switch the TV into 3D mode(listed in your manual) but also enable 3D Vision, if you're using the a certain HDMI monitor's EDID then you'll need to set the resolutiont to 720p50/60...[/quote] Thanks dude. You were right, at least with the point that there's another 3D mode "hidden" in the monitor. I ran DDU and installed fresh after I got my 1080 last week. Guess what happened? After the installation the driver somehow detected that I got a 3D capable screen (without the EDID override), and switched to a mode, that made my TV pop up the 3D menu (where I can adjust depth on the TV side). But that mode was 1920x1080x[b]24Hz[/b](bleee). I was happily surprised but didn't give it a second thought as I was about to get the 1080 running first. Then what? That mode, which was sitting right on the Nvidia Panel before disappeared again. I tried switching to 24Hz, but this alone didn't trigger the 3D mode on the TV. I have absolutely NO idea how to repeat this. I've been reading the manual inside out, there's like nothing about 3D in it, it's one of those "Plug the cable in wall - if you're TV is now on fire, run away, don't sue us, you've been warned." [quote="bo3b"]I don't think we make any further informed suggestions, unless you show us with a photograph what you are seeing. There is too much rubbish on the internet- like people saying polarized has no ghosting. That's not even close. Post some snapshots of what you see with the naked eye, and then through the lenses. Use something completely simple and known good like the NVidia 3D Photo Viewer, or their Test Stereoscopic 3D from the Control Panel.[/quote] Thanks for your input, too. I kinda forgot about the possibility to photograph it (and to show it to the very kind and helpful people round). :) So I'm definitely gonna do that next week. See you then!
TsaebehT said:Yeah I don't know, I wish you luck with it... I still think something's off, especially where it just kicked in an looked really good all of a sudden and now it's requiring all this tweaking.

Definitely try a clean/DDU install, like bo3b mentioned, if you haven't... 3D Vision/Drive installs have been know to get all wonky on us from time to time.

I'd make sure you're outputting in a correct format that will not only switch the TV into 3D mode(listed in your manual) but also enable 3D Vision, if you're using the a certain HDMI monitor's EDID then you'll need to set the resolutiont to 720p50/60...


Thanks dude. You were right, at least with the point that there's another 3D mode "hidden" in the monitor. I ran DDU and installed fresh after I got my 1080 last week. Guess what happened? After the installation the driver somehow detected that I got a 3D capable screen (without the EDID override), and switched to a mode, that made my TV pop up the 3D menu (where I can adjust depth on the TV side). But that mode was 1920x1080x24Hz(bleee). I was happily surprised but didn't give it a second thought as I was about to get the 1080 running first.

Then what? That mode, which was sitting right on the Nvidia Panel before disappeared again. I tried switching to 24Hz, but this alone didn't trigger the 3D mode on the TV. I have absolutely NO idea how to repeat this. I've been reading the manual inside out, there's like nothing about 3D in it, it's one of those "Plug the cable in wall - if you're TV is now on fire, run away, don't sue us, you've been warned."

bo3b said:I don't think we make any further informed suggestions, unless you show us with a photograph what you are seeing.

There is too much rubbish on the internet- like people saying polarized has no ghosting. That's not even close.


Post some snapshots of what you see with the naked eye, and then through the lenses. Use something completely simple and known good like the NVidia 3D Photo Viewer, or their Test Stereoscopic 3D from the Control Panel.


Thanks for your input, too. I kinda forgot about the possibility to photograph it (and to show it to the very kind and helpful people round). :) So I'm definitely gonna do that next week. See you then!

#25
Posted 09/11/2016 06:58 PM   
The TV may have gone into 3D mode but unless you had already enabled 3D Vision and 3D content was actually being sent to the TV it may have just been a fluke... 3D Vision must be enabled in the Control Panel first. If you can't enable it(or 3DTV Play) in the Control Panel then you must use an EDID override and depending on which EDID you use, then you must output in a proper 3D mode, like I said above some need to be in 720p60 in order for 3D Vision to work. From what I was reading in [url=http://www.lg.com/uk/support/manuals?keyword=&superCateId=CT00008333&categoryId=CT00008334&subCateId=CT00008336&modelNum=42LA613V]this [/url]manual(pg 38) the TV must receive certain types of signals in order to go into 3D mode automatically...
The TV may have gone into 3D mode but unless you had already enabled 3D Vision and 3D content was actually being sent to the TV it may have just been a fluke... 3D Vision must be enabled in the Control Panel first.

If you can't enable it(or 3DTV Play) in the Control Panel then you must use an EDID override and depending on which EDID you use, then you must output in a proper 3D mode, like I said above some need to be in 720p60 in order for 3D Vision to work.

From what I was reading in this manual(pg 38) the TV must receive certain types of signals in order to go into 3D mode automatically...
#26
Posted 09/13/2016 01:35 AM   
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