by a mile ............................................................
........
still need the nvidia emitter plugged in for it's 3d driver obviously but they worked straight out the box, simply looked at the screen.
Good bye IR you piece of crapola.
3D the way it was meant to be, no ghosting , no transmission issues and no yellow tint to picture (Nvidia!), better colours and contrast
And on plus side you can still use Nvidia with the Optoma's at same time.
Glad I didn't go x102's, lesser reviews and proprietry batteries ....
PS: My hack still lives with latest Nvidia drivers to get HD66 working.
by a mile ............................................................
........
still need the nvidia emitter plugged in for it's 3d driver obviously but they worked straight out the box, simply looked at the screen.
Good bye IR you piece of crapola.
3D the way it was meant to be, no ghosting , no transmission issues and no yellow tint to picture (Nvidia!), better colours and contrast
And on plus side you can still use Nvidia with the Optoma's at same time.
Glad I didn't go x102's, lesser reviews and proprietry batteries ....
PS: My hack still lives with latest Nvidia drivers to get HD66 working.
[quote name='bullripper' post='1130716' date='Oct 14 2010, 11:22 AM']by a mile ............................................................
........
still need the nvidia emitter plugged in for it's 3d driver obviously but they worked straight out the box, simply looked at the screen.
Good bye IR you piece of crapola.
3D the way it was meant to be, no ghosting , no transmission issues and no yellow tint to picture (Nvidia!), better colours and contrast
And on plus side you can still use Nvidia with the Optoma's at same time.
Glad I didn't go x102's, lesser reviews and proprietry batteries ....
PS: My hack still lives with latest Nvidia drivers to get HD66 working.[/quote]
So you can use the Nvidia glasses and the optoma glasses altogether? No sync problems, inverted transmission, etc?
BTW, thanks again for your hack, been using it for the last 6 months or so.
[quote name='bullripper' post='1130716' date='Oct 14 2010, 11:22 AM']by a mile ............................................................
........
still need the nvidia emitter plugged in for it's 3d driver obviously but they worked straight out the box, simply looked at the screen.
Good bye IR you piece of crapola.
3D the way it was meant to be, no ghosting , no transmission issues and no yellow tint to picture (Nvidia!), better colours and contrast
And on plus side you can still use Nvidia with the Optoma's at same time.
Glad I didn't go x102's, lesser reviews and proprietry batteries ....
PS: My hack still lives with latest Nvidia drivers to get HD66 working.[/quote]
So you can use the Nvidia glasses and the optoma glasses altogether? No sync problems, inverted transmission, etc?
BTW, thanks again for your hack, been using it for the last 6 months or so.
You can't really use DLP_Link plus emitter simultaneously, because the nV glasses won't block the white flash of DLP_Link resulting in green shade all over the screen. You don't want that.
Quality:
DLP_Link manufacturers ( except RealD) , don't brag about their contrast ratio, transmittance numbers, I guess they have a reason.
x102 said to have 500:1 , and thats laughable, even if the transmittance is high.
nV said to have 2000:1 , with a transmittance of 40% , seems to be a good trade off, IDK if these numbers are true, 720p pj's have 1100 contrast, any room with even a little little bit of ambient light (~ candlelight) hard limits contrast to 800:1.
RealD Ce4, Ce5, said to have 5000:1, with transmittance of ~35%. You need a very very good display for these ones.
( projectiondesign , Mitsubishi Laservue)
I expect Bit Cauldron glasses to be of low contrast, high transmittance crop.
You can't really use DLP_Link plus emitter simultaneously, because the nV glasses won't block the white flash of DLP_Link resulting in green shade all over the screen. You don't want that.
Quality:
DLP_Link manufacturers ( except RealD) , don't brag about their contrast ratio, transmittance numbers, I guess they have a reason.
x102 said to have 500:1 , and thats laughable, even if the transmittance is high.
nV said to have 2000:1 , with a transmittance of 40% , seems to be a good trade off, IDK if these numbers are true, 720p pj's have 1100 contrast, any room with even a little little bit of ambient light (~ candlelight) hard limits contrast to 800:1.
RealD Ce4, Ce5, said to have 5000:1, with transmittance of ~35%. You need a very very good display for these ones.
( projectiondesign , Mitsubishi Laservue)
I expect Bit Cauldron glasses to be of low contrast, high transmittance crop.
You can't really use DLP_Link plus emitter simultaneously, because the nV glasses won't block the white flash of DLP_Link resulting in green shade all over the screen. You don't want that.
Quality:
DLP_Link manufacturers ( except RealD) , don't brag about their contrast ratio, transmittance numbers, I guess they have a reason.
x102 said to have 500:1 , and thats laughable, even if the transmittance is high.
nV said to have 2000:1 , with a transmittance of 40% , seems to be a good trade off, IDK if these numbers are true, 720p pj's have 1100 contrast, any room with even a little little bit of ambient light (~ candlelight) hard limits contrast to 800:1.
RealD Ce4, Ce5, said to have 5000:1, with transmittance of ~35%. You need a very very good display for these ones.
( projectiondesign , Mitsubishi Laservue)
I expect Bit Cauldron glasses to be of low contrast, high transmittance crop.
You can't really use DLP_Link plus emitter simultaneously, because the nV glasses won't block the white flash of DLP_Link resulting in green shade all over the screen. You don't want that.
Quality:
DLP_Link manufacturers ( except RealD) , don't brag about their contrast ratio, transmittance numbers, I guess they have a reason.
x102 said to have 500:1 , and thats laughable, even if the transmittance is high.
nV said to have 2000:1 , with a transmittance of 40% , seems to be a good trade off, IDK if these numbers are true, 720p pj's have 1100 contrast, any room with even a little little bit of ambient light (~ candlelight) hard limits contrast to 800:1.
RealD Ce4, Ce5, said to have 5000:1, with transmittance of ~35%. You need a very very good display for these ones.
( projectiondesign , Mitsubishi Laservue)
I expect Bit Cauldron glasses to be of low contrast, high transmittance crop.
[quote name='tritosine' post='1130754' date='Oct 14 2010, 05:09 PM']x102 said to have 500:1 , and thats laughable, even if the transmittance is high[/quote]
I've been thinking about this. I guess with shutter glasses. The absolute contrast might not be that important. My reasoning is; when the LCD is on, you're getting the full benefit of the projectors on/off contrast value. When the LCD is off, it only needs to be dark enough for your brain to prefer to process the other eye. I guess if there is a bright light source in the image, there is a danger of ghosting but the ghost will still be 500 dimmer then the original. Sounds quite a lot.
[quote name='tritosine' post='1130754' date='Oct 14 2010, 05:09 PM']x102 said to have 500:1 , and thats laughable, even if the transmittance is high
I've been thinking about this. I guess with shutter glasses. The absolute contrast might not be that important. My reasoning is; when the LCD is on, you're getting the full benefit of the projectors on/off contrast value. When the LCD is off, it only needs to be dark enough for your brain to prefer to process the other eye. I guess if there is a bright light source in the image, there is a danger of ghosting but the ghost will still be 500 dimmer then the original. Sounds quite a lot.
[quote name='tritosine' post='1130754' date='Oct 14 2010, 05:09 PM']x102 said to have 500:1 , and thats laughable, even if the transmittance is high[/quote]
I've been thinking about this. I guess with shutter glasses. The absolute contrast might not be that important. My reasoning is; when the LCD is on, you're getting the full benefit of the projectors on/off contrast value. When the LCD is off, it only needs to be dark enough for your brain to prefer to process the other eye. I guess if there is a bright light source in the image, there is a danger of ghosting but the ghost will still be 500 dimmer then the original. Sounds quite a lot.
[quote name='tritosine' post='1130754' date='Oct 14 2010, 05:09 PM']x102 said to have 500:1 , and thats laughable, even if the transmittance is high
I've been thinking about this. I guess with shutter glasses. The absolute contrast might not be that important. My reasoning is; when the LCD is on, you're getting the full benefit of the projectors on/off contrast value. When the LCD is off, it only needs to be dark enough for your brain to prefer to process the other eye. I guess if there is a bright light source in the image, there is a danger of ghosting but the ghost will still be 500 dimmer then the original. Sounds quite a lot.
[quote name='cyberheater' post='1130815' date='Oct 14 2010, 08:34 PM']I've been thinking about this. I guess with shutter glasses. The absolute contrast might not be that important. My reasoning is; when the LCD is on, you're getting the full benefit of the projectors on/off contrast value. When the LCD is off, it only needs to be dark enough for your brain to prefer to process the other eye. I guess if there is a bright light source in the image, there is a danger of ghosting but the ghost will still be 500 dimmer then the original. Sounds quite a lot.[/quote]
That is true. A shutter glass contrast ratio is basically the theoretical ghosting ratio that you get if the glasses are perfectly in sync with the display, and 500:1 is already a big value.
For comparison, most polarised projection systems (understand Imax and RealD) have polarisation ratios ranging around 80~120:1, limited by the polarisation ratio of the silver-screen.
That is about 1% ghosting. On most of these systems you won't see any ghosting unless you specifically show a ghosting test scene. So a 500:1 is an excellent value, you don't need much more, 1000:1 is probably overkill already.
[quote name='cyberheater' post='1130815' date='Oct 14 2010, 08:34 PM']I've been thinking about this. I guess with shutter glasses. The absolute contrast might not be that important. My reasoning is; when the LCD is on, you're getting the full benefit of the projectors on/off contrast value. When the LCD is off, it only needs to be dark enough for your brain to prefer to process the other eye. I guess if there is a bright light source in the image, there is a danger of ghosting but the ghost will still be 500 dimmer then the original. Sounds quite a lot.
That is true. A shutter glass contrast ratio is basically the theoretical ghosting ratio that you get if the glasses are perfectly in sync with the display, and 500:1 is already a big value.
For comparison, most polarised projection systems (understand Imax and RealD) have polarisation ratios ranging around 80~120:1, limited by the polarisation ratio of the silver-screen.
That is about 1% ghosting. On most of these systems you won't see any ghosting unless you specifically show a ghosting test scene. So a 500:1 is an excellent value, you don't need much more, 1000:1 is probably overkill already.
Passive 3D forever
110" DIY dual-projection system
2x Epson EH-TW3500 (1080p) + Linear Polarizers (SPAR)
XtremScreen Daylight 2.0
VNS Geobox501 signal converter
[quote name='cyberheater' post='1130815' date='Oct 14 2010, 08:34 PM']I've been thinking about this. I guess with shutter glasses. The absolute contrast might not be that important. My reasoning is; when the LCD is on, you're getting the full benefit of the projectors on/off contrast value. When the LCD is off, it only needs to be dark enough for your brain to prefer to process the other eye. I guess if there is a bright light source in the image, there is a danger of ghosting but the ghost will still be 500 dimmer then the original. Sounds quite a lot.[/quote]
That is true. A shutter glass contrast ratio is basically the theoretical ghosting ratio that you get if the glasses are perfectly in sync with the display, and 500:1 is already a big value.
For comparison, most polarised projection systems (understand Imax and RealD) have polarisation ratios ranging around 80~120:1, limited by the polarisation ratio of the silver-screen.
That is about 1% ghosting. On most of these systems you won't see any ghosting unless you specifically show a ghosting test scene. So a 500:1 is an excellent value, you don't need much more, 1000:1 is probably overkill already.
[quote name='cyberheater' post='1130815' date='Oct 14 2010, 08:34 PM']I've been thinking about this. I guess with shutter glasses. The absolute contrast might not be that important. My reasoning is; when the LCD is on, you're getting the full benefit of the projectors on/off contrast value. When the LCD is off, it only needs to be dark enough for your brain to prefer to process the other eye. I guess if there is a bright light source in the image, there is a danger of ghosting but the ghost will still be 500 dimmer then the original. Sounds quite a lot.
That is true. A shutter glass contrast ratio is basically the theoretical ghosting ratio that you get if the glasses are perfectly in sync with the display, and 500:1 is already a big value.
For comparison, most polarised projection systems (understand Imax and RealD) have polarisation ratios ranging around 80~120:1, limited by the polarisation ratio of the silver-screen.
That is about 1% ghosting. On most of these systems you won't see any ghosting unless you specifically show a ghosting test scene. So a 500:1 is an excellent value, you don't need much more, 1000:1 is probably overkill already.
Passive 3D forever
110" DIY dual-projection system
2x Epson EH-TW3500 (1080p) + Linear Polarizers (SPAR)
XtremScreen Daylight 2.0
VNS Geobox501 signal converter
[quote name='BlackSharkfr' post='1130826' date='Oct 14 2010, 08:10 PM']That is true. A shutter glass contrast ratio is basically the theoretical ghosting ratio that you get if the glasses are perfectly in sync with the display, and 500:1 is already a big value.
For comparison, most polarised projection systems (understand Imax and RealD) have polarisation ratios ranging around 80~120:1, limited by the polarisation ratio of the silver-screen.
That is about 1% ghosting. On most of these systems you won't see any ghosting unless you specifically show a ghosting test scene. So a 500:1 is an excellent value, you don't need much more, 1000:1 is probably overkill already.[/quote]
Brilliant. That's what I suspected. Thanks for the info.
[quote name='BlackSharkfr' post='1130826' date='Oct 14 2010, 08:10 PM']That is true. A shutter glass contrast ratio is basically the theoretical ghosting ratio that you get if the glasses are perfectly in sync with the display, and 500:1 is already a big value.
For comparison, most polarised projection systems (understand Imax and RealD) have polarisation ratios ranging around 80~120:1, limited by the polarisation ratio of the silver-screen.
That is about 1% ghosting. On most of these systems you won't see any ghosting unless you specifically show a ghosting test scene. So a 500:1 is an excellent value, you don't need much more, 1000:1 is probably overkill already.
Brilliant. That's what I suspected. Thanks for the info.
[quote name='BlackSharkfr' post='1130826' date='Oct 14 2010, 08:10 PM']That is true. A shutter glass contrast ratio is basically the theoretical ghosting ratio that you get if the glasses are perfectly in sync with the display, and 500:1 is already a big value.
For comparison, most polarised projection systems (understand Imax and RealD) have polarisation ratios ranging around 80~120:1, limited by the polarisation ratio of the silver-screen.
That is about 1% ghosting. On most of these systems you won't see any ghosting unless you specifically show a ghosting test scene. So a 500:1 is an excellent value, you don't need much more, 1000:1 is probably overkill already.[/quote]
Brilliant. That's what I suspected. Thanks for the info.
[quote name='BlackSharkfr' post='1130826' date='Oct 14 2010, 08:10 PM']That is true. A shutter glass contrast ratio is basically the theoretical ghosting ratio that you get if the glasses are perfectly in sync with the display, and 500:1 is already a big value.
For comparison, most polarised projection systems (understand Imax and RealD) have polarisation ratios ranging around 80~120:1, limited by the polarisation ratio of the silver-screen.
That is about 1% ghosting. On most of these systems you won't see any ghosting unless you specifically show a ghosting test scene. So a 500:1 is an excellent value, you don't need much more, 1000:1 is probably overkill already.
Brilliant. That's what I suspected. Thanks for the info.
Nah nah. We were talkin about quality, not ghosting. (ghosting with DLP, wth is that , lol)
To me , it boils down to:
5000:1 = good quality linear polarizer (the best?)
2000:1 = acceptable
500:1 = mediocre.
You can buy cheapass linear polarizer sheets as well as expensive, and since glasses are made in volume ( ofcourse these DLP_Link glasses are outsourced & mass produced), then manufacturers prefer to cut costs where possible, Im goin to settle for either hacked Sony glasses or RealD Ce4. I have no problem with IR, but dislike the white flash method.
Nah nah. We were talkin about quality, not ghosting. (ghosting with DLP, wth is that , lol)
To me , it boils down to:
5000:1 = good quality linear polarizer (the best?)
2000:1 = acceptable
500:1 = mediocre.
You can buy cheapass linear polarizer sheets as well as expensive, and since glasses are made in volume ( ofcourse these DLP_Link glasses are outsourced & mass produced), then manufacturers prefer to cut costs where possible, Im goin to settle for either hacked Sony glasses or RealD Ce4. I have no problem with IR, but dislike the white flash method.
Nah nah. We were talkin about quality, not ghosting. (ghosting with DLP, wth is that , lol)
To me , it boils down to:
5000:1 = good quality linear polarizer (the best?)
2000:1 = acceptable
500:1 = mediocre.
You can buy cheapass linear polarizer sheets as well as expensive, and since glasses are made in volume ( ofcourse these DLP_Link glasses are outsourced & mass produced), then manufacturers prefer to cut costs where possible, Im goin to settle for either hacked Sony glasses or RealD Ce4. I have no problem with IR, but dislike the white flash method.
Nah nah. We were talkin about quality, not ghosting. (ghosting with DLP, wth is that , lol)
To me , it boils down to:
5000:1 = good quality linear polarizer (the best?)
2000:1 = acceptable
500:1 = mediocre.
You can buy cheapass linear polarizer sheets as well as expensive, and since glasses are made in volume ( ofcourse these DLP_Link glasses are outsourced & mass produced), then manufacturers prefer to cut costs where possible, Im goin to settle for either hacked Sony glasses or RealD Ce4. I have no problem with IR, but dislike the white flash method.
[quote name='tritosine' post='1130754' date='Oct 14 2010, 01:09 PM']Sweeping arguments here without evidence.
You can't really use DLP_Link plus emitter simultaneously, because the nV glasses won't block the white flash of DLP_Link resulting in green shade all over the screen. You don't want that.
Quality:
DLP_Link manufacturers ( except RealD) , don't brag about their contrast ratio, transmittance numbers, I guess they have a reason.
x102 said to have 500:1 , and thats laughable, even if the transmittance is high.
nV said to have 2000:1 , with a transmittance of 40% , seems to be a good trade off, IDK if these numbers are true, 720p pj's have 1100 contrast, any room with even a little little bit of ambient light (~ candlelight) hard limits contrast to 800:1.
RealD Ce4, Ce5, said to have 5000:1, with transmittance of ~35%. You need a very very good display for these ones.
( projectiondesign , Mitsubishi Laservue)
I expect Bit Cauldron glasses to be of low contrast, high transmittance crop.[/quote]
Well, I'm using an Optoma hd66 with the nvision kit, and as you know, the Optoma goes dlp link on automatically when you put it at 1280x720 120hz, I don;t have any "green" problems, it even looks better than the Xpand x102 I had.
[quote name='tritosine' post='1130754' date='Oct 14 2010, 01:09 PM']Sweeping arguments here without evidence.
You can't really use DLP_Link plus emitter simultaneously, because the nV glasses won't block the white flash of DLP_Link resulting in green shade all over the screen. You don't want that.
Quality:
DLP_Link manufacturers ( except RealD) , don't brag about their contrast ratio, transmittance numbers, I guess they have a reason.
x102 said to have 500:1 , and thats laughable, even if the transmittance is high.
nV said to have 2000:1 , with a transmittance of 40% , seems to be a good trade off, IDK if these numbers are true, 720p pj's have 1100 contrast, any room with even a little little bit of ambient light (~ candlelight) hard limits contrast to 800:1.
RealD Ce4, Ce5, said to have 5000:1, with transmittance of ~35%. You need a very very good display for these ones.
( projectiondesign , Mitsubishi Laservue)
I expect Bit Cauldron glasses to be of low contrast, high transmittance crop.
Well, I'm using an Optoma hd66 with the nvision kit, and as you know, the Optoma goes dlp link on automatically when you put it at 1280x720 120hz, I don;t have any "green" problems, it even looks better than the Xpand x102 I had.
........
still need the nvidia emitter plugged in for it's 3d driver obviously but they worked straight out the box, simply looked at the screen.
Good bye IR you piece of crapola.
3D the way it was meant to be, no ghosting , no transmission issues and no yellow tint to picture (Nvidia!), better colours and contrast
And on plus side you can still use Nvidia with the Optoma's at same time.
Glad I didn't go x102's, lesser reviews and proprietry batteries ....
PS: My hack still lives with latest Nvidia drivers to get HD66 working.
........
still need the nvidia emitter plugged in for it's 3d driver obviously but they worked straight out the box, simply looked at the screen.
Good bye IR you piece of crapola.
3D the way it was meant to be, no ghosting , no transmission issues and no yellow tint to picture (Nvidia!), better colours and contrast
And on plus side you can still use Nvidia with the Optoma's at same time.
Glad I didn't go x102's, lesser reviews and proprietry batteries ....
PS: My hack still lives with latest Nvidia drivers to get HD66 working.
........
still need the nvidia emitter plugged in for it's 3d driver obviously but they worked straight out the box, simply looked at the screen.
Good bye IR you piece of crapola.
3D the way it was meant to be, no ghosting , no transmission issues and no yellow tint to picture (Nvidia!), better colours and contrast
And on plus side you can still use Nvidia with the Optoma's at same time.
Glad I didn't go x102's, lesser reviews and proprietry batteries ....
PS: My hack still lives with latest Nvidia drivers to get HD66 working.
........
still need the nvidia emitter plugged in for it's 3d driver obviously but they worked straight out the box, simply looked at the screen.
Good bye IR you piece of crapola.
3D the way it was meant to be, no ghosting , no transmission issues and no yellow tint to picture (Nvidia!), better colours and contrast
And on plus side you can still use Nvidia with the Optoma's at same time.
Glad I didn't go x102's, lesser reviews and proprietry batteries ....
PS: My hack still lives with latest Nvidia drivers to get HD66 working.
........
still need the nvidia emitter plugged in for it's 3d driver obviously but they worked straight out the box, simply looked at the screen.
Good bye IR you piece of crapola.
3D the way it was meant to be, no ghosting , no transmission issues and no yellow tint to picture (Nvidia!), better colours and contrast
And on plus side you can still use Nvidia with the Optoma's at same time.
Glad I didn't go x102's, lesser reviews and proprietry batteries ....
PS: My hack still lives with latest Nvidia drivers to get HD66 working.[/quote]
So you can use the Nvidia glasses and the optoma glasses altogether? No sync problems, inverted transmission, etc?
BTW, thanks again for your hack, been using it for the last 6 months or so.
........
still need the nvidia emitter plugged in for it's 3d driver obviously but they worked straight out the box, simply looked at the screen.
Good bye IR you piece of crapola.
3D the way it was meant to be, no ghosting , no transmission issues and no yellow tint to picture (Nvidia!), better colours and contrast
And on plus side you can still use Nvidia with the Optoma's at same time.
Glad I didn't go x102's, lesser reviews and proprietry batteries ....
PS: My hack still lives with latest Nvidia drivers to get HD66 working.
So you can use the Nvidia glasses and the optoma glasses altogether? No sync problems, inverted transmission, etc?
BTW, thanks again for your hack, been using it for the last 6 months or so.
........
still need the nvidia emitter plugged in for it's 3d driver obviously but they worked straight out the box, simply looked at the screen.
Good bye IR you piece of crapola.
3D the way it was meant to be, no ghosting , no transmission issues and no yellow tint to picture (Nvidia!), better colours and contrast
And on plus side you can still use Nvidia with the Optoma's at same time.
Glad I didn't go x102's, lesser reviews and proprietry batteries ....
PS: My hack still lives with latest Nvidia drivers to get HD66 working.[/quote]
So you can use the Nvidia glasses and the optoma glasses altogether? No sync problems, inverted transmission, etc?
BTW, thanks again for your hack, been using it for the last 6 months or so.
........
still need the nvidia emitter plugged in for it's 3d driver obviously but they worked straight out the box, simply looked at the screen.
Good bye IR you piece of crapola.
3D the way it was meant to be, no ghosting , no transmission issues and no yellow tint to picture (Nvidia!), better colours and contrast
And on plus side you can still use Nvidia with the Optoma's at same time.
Glad I didn't go x102's, lesser reviews and proprietry batteries ....
PS: My hack still lives with latest Nvidia drivers to get HD66 working.
So you can use the Nvidia glasses and the optoma glasses altogether? No sync problems, inverted transmission, etc?
BTW, thanks again for your hack, been using it for the last 6 months or so.
You can't really use DLP_Link plus emitter simultaneously, because the nV glasses won't block the white flash of DLP_Link resulting in green shade all over the screen. You don't want that.
Quality:
DLP_Link manufacturers ( except RealD) , don't brag about their contrast ratio, transmittance numbers, I guess they have a reason.
x102 said to have 500:1 , and thats laughable, even if the transmittance is high.
nV said to have 2000:1 , with a transmittance of 40% , seems to be a good trade off, IDK if these numbers are true, 720p pj's have 1100 contrast, any room with even a little little bit of ambient light (~ candlelight) hard limits contrast to 800:1.
RealD Ce4, Ce5, said to have 5000:1, with transmittance of ~35%. You need a very very good display for these ones.
( projectiondesign , Mitsubishi Laservue)
I expect Bit Cauldron glasses to be of low contrast, high transmittance crop.
You can't really use DLP_Link plus emitter simultaneously, because the nV glasses won't block the white flash of DLP_Link resulting in green shade all over the screen. You don't want that.
Quality:
DLP_Link manufacturers ( except RealD) , don't brag about their contrast ratio, transmittance numbers, I guess they have a reason.
x102 said to have 500:1 , and thats laughable, even if the transmittance is high.
nV said to have 2000:1 , with a transmittance of 40% , seems to be a good trade off, IDK if these numbers are true, 720p pj's have 1100 contrast, any room with even a little little bit of ambient light (~ candlelight) hard limits contrast to 800:1.
RealD Ce4, Ce5, said to have 5000:1, with transmittance of ~35%. You need a very very good display for these ones.
( projectiondesign , Mitsubishi Laservue)
I expect Bit Cauldron glasses to be of low contrast, high transmittance crop.
You can't really use DLP_Link plus emitter simultaneously, because the nV glasses won't block the white flash of DLP_Link resulting in green shade all over the screen. You don't want that.
Quality:
DLP_Link manufacturers ( except RealD) , don't brag about their contrast ratio, transmittance numbers, I guess they have a reason.
x102 said to have 500:1 , and thats laughable, even if the transmittance is high.
nV said to have 2000:1 , with a transmittance of 40% , seems to be a good trade off, IDK if these numbers are true, 720p pj's have 1100 contrast, any room with even a little little bit of ambient light (~ candlelight) hard limits contrast to 800:1.
RealD Ce4, Ce5, said to have 5000:1, with transmittance of ~35%. You need a very very good display for these ones.
( projectiondesign , Mitsubishi Laservue)
I expect Bit Cauldron glasses to be of low contrast, high transmittance crop.
You can't really use DLP_Link plus emitter simultaneously, because the nV glasses won't block the white flash of DLP_Link resulting in green shade all over the screen. You don't want that.
Quality:
DLP_Link manufacturers ( except RealD) , don't brag about their contrast ratio, transmittance numbers, I guess they have a reason.
x102 said to have 500:1 , and thats laughable, even if the transmittance is high.
nV said to have 2000:1 , with a transmittance of 40% , seems to be a good trade off, IDK if these numbers are true, 720p pj's have 1100 contrast, any room with even a little little bit of ambient light (~ candlelight) hard limits contrast to 800:1.
RealD Ce4, Ce5, said to have 5000:1, with transmittance of ~35%. You need a very very good display for these ones.
( projectiondesign , Mitsubishi Laservue)
I expect Bit Cauldron glasses to be of low contrast, high transmittance crop.
I've been thinking about this. I guess with shutter glasses. The absolute contrast might not be that important. My reasoning is; when the LCD is on, you're getting the full benefit of the projectors on/off contrast value. When the LCD is off, it only needs to be dark enough for your brain to prefer to process the other eye. I guess if there is a bright light source in the image, there is a danger of ghosting but the ghost will still be 500 dimmer then the original. Sounds quite a lot.
I've been thinking about this. I guess with shutter glasses. The absolute contrast might not be that important. My reasoning is; when the LCD is on, you're getting the full benefit of the projectors on/off contrast value. When the LCD is off, it only needs to be dark enough for your brain to prefer to process the other eye. I guess if there is a bright light source in the image, there is a danger of ghosting but the ghost will still be 500 dimmer then the original. Sounds quite a lot.
I've been thinking about this. I guess with shutter glasses. The absolute contrast might not be that important. My reasoning is; when the LCD is on, you're getting the full benefit of the projectors on/off contrast value. When the LCD is off, it only needs to be dark enough for your brain to prefer to process the other eye. I guess if there is a bright light source in the image, there is a danger of ghosting but the ghost will still be 500 dimmer then the original. Sounds quite a lot.
I've been thinking about this. I guess with shutter glasses. The absolute contrast might not be that important. My reasoning is; when the LCD is on, you're getting the full benefit of the projectors on/off contrast value. When the LCD is off, it only needs to be dark enough for your brain to prefer to process the other eye. I guess if there is a bright light source in the image, there is a danger of ghosting but the ghost will still be 500 dimmer then the original. Sounds quite a lot.
That is true. A shutter glass contrast ratio is basically the theoretical ghosting ratio that you get if the glasses are perfectly in sync with the display, and 500:1 is already a big value.
For comparison, most polarised projection systems (understand Imax and RealD) have polarisation ratios ranging around 80~120:1, limited by the polarisation ratio of the silver-screen.
That is about 1% ghosting. On most of these systems you won't see any ghosting unless you specifically show a ghosting test scene. So a 500:1 is an excellent value, you don't need much more, 1000:1 is probably overkill already.
That is true. A shutter glass contrast ratio is basically the theoretical ghosting ratio that you get if the glasses are perfectly in sync with the display, and 500:1 is already a big value.
For comparison, most polarised projection systems (understand Imax and RealD) have polarisation ratios ranging around 80~120:1, limited by the polarisation ratio of the silver-screen.
That is about 1% ghosting. On most of these systems you won't see any ghosting unless you specifically show a ghosting test scene. So a 500:1 is an excellent value, you don't need much more, 1000:1 is probably overkill already.
Passive 3D forever
110" DIY dual-projection system
2x Epson EH-TW3500 (1080p) + Linear Polarizers (SPAR)
XtremScreen Daylight 2.0
VNS Geobox501 signal converter
That is true. A shutter glass contrast ratio is basically the theoretical ghosting ratio that you get if the glasses are perfectly in sync with the display, and 500:1 is already a big value.
For comparison, most polarised projection systems (understand Imax and RealD) have polarisation ratios ranging around 80~120:1, limited by the polarisation ratio of the silver-screen.
That is about 1% ghosting. On most of these systems you won't see any ghosting unless you specifically show a ghosting test scene. So a 500:1 is an excellent value, you don't need much more, 1000:1 is probably overkill already.
That is true. A shutter glass contrast ratio is basically the theoretical ghosting ratio that you get if the glasses are perfectly in sync with the display, and 500:1 is already a big value.
For comparison, most polarised projection systems (understand Imax and RealD) have polarisation ratios ranging around 80~120:1, limited by the polarisation ratio of the silver-screen.
That is about 1% ghosting. On most of these systems you won't see any ghosting unless you specifically show a ghosting test scene. So a 500:1 is an excellent value, you don't need much more, 1000:1 is probably overkill already.
Passive 3D forever
110" DIY dual-projection system
2x Epson EH-TW3500 (1080p) + Linear Polarizers (SPAR)
XtremScreen Daylight 2.0
VNS Geobox501 signal converter
For comparison, most polarised projection systems (understand Imax and RealD) have polarisation ratios ranging around 80~120:1, limited by the polarisation ratio of the silver-screen.
That is about 1% ghosting. On most of these systems you won't see any ghosting unless you specifically show a ghosting test scene. So a 500:1 is an excellent value, you don't need much more, 1000:1 is probably overkill already.[/quote]
Brilliant. That's what I suspected. Thanks for the info.
For comparison, most polarised projection systems (understand Imax and RealD) have polarisation ratios ranging around 80~120:1, limited by the polarisation ratio of the silver-screen.
That is about 1% ghosting. On most of these systems you won't see any ghosting unless you specifically show a ghosting test scene. So a 500:1 is an excellent value, you don't need much more, 1000:1 is probably overkill already.
Brilliant. That's what I suspected. Thanks for the info.
For comparison, most polarised projection systems (understand Imax and RealD) have polarisation ratios ranging around 80~120:1, limited by the polarisation ratio of the silver-screen.
That is about 1% ghosting. On most of these systems you won't see any ghosting unless you specifically show a ghosting test scene. So a 500:1 is an excellent value, you don't need much more, 1000:1 is probably overkill already.[/quote]
Brilliant. That's what I suspected. Thanks for the info.
For comparison, most polarised projection systems (understand Imax and RealD) have polarisation ratios ranging around 80~120:1, limited by the polarisation ratio of the silver-screen.
That is about 1% ghosting. On most of these systems you won't see any ghosting unless you specifically show a ghosting test scene. So a 500:1 is an excellent value, you don't need much more, 1000:1 is probably overkill already.
Brilliant. That's what I suspected. Thanks for the info.
To me , it boils down to:
5000:1 = good quality linear polarizer (the best?)
2000:1 = acceptable
500:1 = mediocre.
You can buy cheapass linear polarizer sheets as well as expensive, and since glasses are made in volume ( ofcourse these DLP_Link glasses are outsourced & mass produced), then manufacturers prefer to cut costs where possible, Im goin to settle for either hacked Sony glasses or RealD Ce4. I have no problem with IR, but dislike the white flash method.
To me , it boils down to:
5000:1 = good quality linear polarizer (the best?)
2000:1 = acceptable
500:1 = mediocre.
You can buy cheapass linear polarizer sheets as well as expensive, and since glasses are made in volume ( ofcourse these DLP_Link glasses are outsourced & mass produced), then manufacturers prefer to cut costs where possible, Im goin to settle for either hacked Sony glasses or RealD Ce4. I have no problem with IR, but dislike the white flash method.
To me , it boils down to:
5000:1 = good quality linear polarizer (the best?)
2000:1 = acceptable
500:1 = mediocre.
You can buy cheapass linear polarizer sheets as well as expensive, and since glasses are made in volume ( ofcourse these DLP_Link glasses are outsourced & mass produced), then manufacturers prefer to cut costs where possible, Im goin to settle for either hacked Sony glasses or RealD Ce4. I have no problem with IR, but dislike the white flash method.
To me , it boils down to:
5000:1 = good quality linear polarizer (the best?)
2000:1 = acceptable
500:1 = mediocre.
You can buy cheapass linear polarizer sheets as well as expensive, and since glasses are made in volume ( ofcourse these DLP_Link glasses are outsourced & mass produced), then manufacturers prefer to cut costs where possible, Im goin to settle for either hacked Sony glasses or RealD Ce4. I have no problem with IR, but dislike the white flash method.
You can't really use DLP_Link plus emitter simultaneously, because the nV glasses won't block the white flash of DLP_Link resulting in green shade all over the screen. You don't want that.
Quality:
DLP_Link manufacturers ( except RealD) , don't brag about their contrast ratio, transmittance numbers, I guess they have a reason.
x102 said to have 500:1 , and thats laughable, even if the transmittance is high.
nV said to have 2000:1 , with a transmittance of 40% , seems to be a good trade off, IDK if these numbers are true, 720p pj's have 1100 contrast, any room with even a little little bit of ambient light (~ candlelight) hard limits contrast to 800:1.
RealD Ce4, Ce5, said to have 5000:1, with transmittance of ~35%. You need a very very good display for these ones.
( projectiondesign , Mitsubishi Laservue)
I expect Bit Cauldron glasses to be of low contrast, high transmittance crop.[/quote]
Well, I'm using an Optoma hd66 with the nvision kit, and as you know, the Optoma goes dlp link on automatically when you put it at 1280x720 120hz, I don;t have any "green" problems, it even looks better than the Xpand x102 I had.
You can't really use DLP_Link plus emitter simultaneously, because the nV glasses won't block the white flash of DLP_Link resulting in green shade all over the screen. You don't want that.
Quality:
DLP_Link manufacturers ( except RealD) , don't brag about their contrast ratio, transmittance numbers, I guess they have a reason.
x102 said to have 500:1 , and thats laughable, even if the transmittance is high.
nV said to have 2000:1 , with a transmittance of 40% , seems to be a good trade off, IDK if these numbers are true, 720p pj's have 1100 contrast, any room with even a little little bit of ambient light (~ candlelight) hard limits contrast to 800:1.
RealD Ce4, Ce5, said to have 5000:1, with transmittance of ~35%. You need a very very good display for these ones.
( projectiondesign , Mitsubishi Laservue)
I expect Bit Cauldron glasses to be of low contrast, high transmittance crop.
Well, I'm using an Optoma hd66 with the nvision kit, and as you know, the Optoma goes dlp link on automatically when you put it at 1280x720 120hz, I don;t have any "green" problems, it even looks better than the Xpand x102 I had.