Any news on the HD66 or PRO350W? Can someone at Nvidia just answer if these will be at least usable for 3D vision (without resorting to old drivers), even if not "officially" supported? Will they even be detected properly at least? Straight simple answers would be much appreciated, even if it's not going to happen or just not even being considered right now. Thanks.
Any news on the HD66 or PRO350W? Can someone at Nvidia just answer if these will be at least usable for 3D vision (without resorting to old drivers), even if not "officially" supported? Will they even be detected properly at least? Straight simple answers would be much appreciated, even if it's not going to happen or just not even being considered right now. Thanks.
Hi! I am going to give a try and do one of this adapters. I am useing the optoma PRO350w.
Do you have a diagram of how you added the CD40106BCN to the circuit? I have some knowledge of electronics, but not enought to really understand how this circuit is helping to have a more stable signal.
Thanks in advance!!
[quote name='neutronium' post='984852' date='Jan 20 2010, 09:42 AM']I built one of these: [url="http://www.int03.co.uk/crema/hardware/stereo/"]http://www.int03.co.uk/crema/hardware/stereo/[/url]. It works for fixing the reversed-eye problem. Basically I have the projector hooked up with both VGA and HDMI with HDMI as primary clone, I'm watching over HDMI but I'm using VGA for the sync signal.
Only a couple quirks. First, the sync signal doesn't know left from right, it's just a constant toggle. All this means is when you start up 3d you have a 50% chance for the eyes to be reversed but all you have to do is toggle it on and off until it's right or flip the switch on the circuit.
The second quirk is the VGA and HDMI seem to sync up differently every time you re-initialize the displays, so sometimes the sync will be off slightly when you turn on the projector or switch from a different HDMI input. Usually I just have to go into the control panel and toggle on and off clone mode a few times and check for ghosting in game. The good news is, when you get them synced correctly this 100% eliminates ghosting. When I tried just using VGA the sync would be constant but it was off slightly so ghosting was actually worse than with no sync signal and the glasses upside-down. I can't guarantee your setup will work the same way, unfortunately. You could always add something like [url="http://www.mtbs3d.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=25"]THIS[/url] so you can manually adjust but I didn't try that.
So now I'm enjoying the glasses right-side-up with absolutely no ghosting and am pretty happy. It just takes a little fiddling once in a while but once you get it right you won't have to mess with it again until you change resolutions or mess with the display setup somehow.
If you guys want to try it out do put a Schmitt Trigger between the resistor and the IC input (I used CD40106BCN), before I did this the sync would reverse every once in a while because of the pulse nature of a vsync signal. The Schmitt smooths this out though and it's been working perfectly ever since. If you use an inverting trigger like that one just put the signal through twice.
All in all I'm now much happier with the 3d experience, not bad for about $30. It is stupid that nvidia doesn't just let us adjust these things in the drivers though because it would certainly be simple.[/quote]
Hi! I am going to give a try and do one of this adapters. I am useing the optoma PRO350w.
Do you have a diagram of how you added the CD40106BCN to the circuit? I have some knowledge of electronics, but not enought to really understand how this circuit is helping to have a more stable signal.
Thanks in advance!!
[quote name='neutronium' post='984852' date='Jan 20 2010, 09:42 AM']I built one of these: http://www.int03.co.uk/crema/hardware/stereo/. It works for fixing the reversed-eye problem. Basically I have the projector hooked up with both VGA and HDMI with HDMI as primary clone, I'm watching over HDMI but I'm using VGA for the sync signal.
Only a couple quirks. First, the sync signal doesn't know left from right, it's just a constant toggle. All this means is when you start up 3d you have a 50% chance for the eyes to be reversed but all you have to do is toggle it on and off until it's right or flip the switch on the circuit.
The second quirk is the VGA and HDMI seem to sync up differently every time you re-initialize the displays, so sometimes the sync will be off slightly when you turn on the projector or switch from a different HDMI input. Usually I just have to go into the control panel and toggle on and off clone mode a few times and check for ghosting in game. The good news is, when you get them synced correctly this 100% eliminates ghosting. When I tried just using VGA the sync would be constant but it was off slightly so ghosting was actually worse than with no sync signal and the glasses upside-down. I can't guarantee your setup will work the same way, unfortunately. You could always add something like THIS so you can manually adjust but I didn't try that.
So now I'm enjoying the glasses right-side-up with absolutely no ghosting and am pretty happy. It just takes a little fiddling once in a while but once you get it right you won't have to mess with it again until you change resolutions or mess with the display setup somehow.
If you guys want to try it out do put a Schmitt Trigger between the resistor and the IC input (I used CD40106BCN), before I did this the sync would reverse every once in a while because of the pulse nature of a vsync signal. The Schmitt smooths this out though and it's been working perfectly ever since. If you use an inverting trigger like that one just put the signal through twice.
All in all I'm now much happier with the 3d experience, not bad for about $30. It is stupid that nvidia doesn't just let us adjust these things in the drivers though because it would certainly be simple.
Do you have a diagram of how you added the CD40106BCN to the circuit? I have some knowledge of electronics, but not enought to really understand how this circuit is helping to have a more stable signal.
Thanks in advance!!
[quote name='neutronium' post='984852' date='Jan 20 2010, 09:42 AM']I built one of these: [url="http://www.int03.co.uk/crema/hardware/stereo/"]http://www.int03.co.uk/crema/hardware/stereo/[/url]. It works for fixing the reversed-eye problem. Basically I have the projector hooked up with both VGA and HDMI with HDMI as primary clone, I'm watching over HDMI but I'm using VGA for the sync signal.
Only a couple quirks. First, the sync signal doesn't know left from right, it's just a constant toggle. All this means is when you start up 3d you have a 50% chance for the eyes to be reversed but all you have to do is toggle it on and off until it's right or flip the switch on the circuit.
The second quirk is the VGA and HDMI seem to sync up differently every time you re-initialize the displays, so sometimes the sync will be off slightly when you turn on the projector or switch from a different HDMI input. Usually I just have to go into the control panel and toggle on and off clone mode a few times and check for ghosting in game. The good news is, when you get them synced correctly this 100% eliminates ghosting. When I tried just using VGA the sync would be constant but it was off slightly so ghosting was actually worse than with no sync signal and the glasses upside-down. I can't guarantee your setup will work the same way, unfortunately. You could always add something like [url="http://www.mtbs3d.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=25"]THIS[/url] so you can manually adjust but I didn't try that.
So now I'm enjoying the glasses right-side-up with absolutely no ghosting and am pretty happy. It just takes a little fiddling once in a while but once you get it right you won't have to mess with it again until you change resolutions or mess with the display setup somehow.
If you guys want to try it out do put a Schmitt Trigger between the resistor and the IC input (I used CD40106BCN), before I did this the sync would reverse every once in a while because of the pulse nature of a vsync signal. The Schmitt smooths this out though and it's been working perfectly ever since. If you use an inverting trigger like that one just put the signal through twice.
All in all I'm now much happier with the 3d experience, not bad for about $30. It is stupid that nvidia doesn't just let us adjust these things in the drivers though because it would certainly be simple.[/quote]
Do you have a diagram of how you added the CD40106BCN to the circuit? I have some knowledge of electronics, but not enought to really understand how this circuit is helping to have a more stable signal.
Thanks in advance!!
[quote name='neutronium' post='984852' date='Jan 20 2010, 09:42 AM']I built one of these: http://www.int03.co.uk/crema/hardware/stereo/. It works for fixing the reversed-eye problem. Basically I have the projector hooked up with both VGA and HDMI with HDMI as primary clone, I'm watching over HDMI but I'm using VGA for the sync signal.
Only a couple quirks. First, the sync signal doesn't know left from right, it's just a constant toggle. All this means is when you start up 3d you have a 50% chance for the eyes to be reversed but all you have to do is toggle it on and off until it's right or flip the switch on the circuit.
The second quirk is the VGA and HDMI seem to sync up differently every time you re-initialize the displays, so sometimes the sync will be off slightly when you turn on the projector or switch from a different HDMI input. Usually I just have to go into the control panel and toggle on and off clone mode a few times and check for ghosting in game. The good news is, when you get them synced correctly this 100% eliminates ghosting. When I tried just using VGA the sync would be constant but it was off slightly so ghosting was actually worse than with no sync signal and the glasses upside-down. I can't guarantee your setup will work the same way, unfortunately. You could always add something like THIS so you can manually adjust but I didn't try that.
So now I'm enjoying the glasses right-side-up with absolutely no ghosting and am pretty happy. It just takes a little fiddling once in a while but once you get it right you won't have to mess with it again until you change resolutions or mess with the display setup somehow.
If you guys want to try it out do put a Schmitt Trigger between the resistor and the IC input (I used CD40106BCN), before I did this the sync would reverse every once in a while because of the pulse nature of a vsync signal. The Schmitt smooths this out though and it's been working perfectly ever since. If you use an inverting trigger like that one just put the signal through twice.
All in all I'm now much happier with the 3d experience, not bad for about $30. It is stupid that nvidia doesn't just let us adjust these things in the drivers though because it would certainly be simple.