Does anyone have a good anaglyph color calibration test image that people can use to calibrate thier display's colors with?
I suppose I could try to make my own but I thought someone more professional might have a good one to share already. I searched the web with no good results. I would like multiple ones for red/blue, red/cyan, colortone, any others? I even have magenta/green and red/green but those are less used.
Does anyone have a good anaglyph color calibration test image that people can use to calibrate thier display's colors with?
I suppose I could try to make my own but I thought someone more professional might have a good one to share already. I searched the web with no good results. I would like multiple ones for red/blue, red/cyan, colortone, any others? I even have magenta/green and red/green but those are less used.
Some homemade ones but only good for comparing glasses. All colors with left sign should go through as unaffected as possible for left lense while everything else should be blocked. Same for the right eye lense of course.
Some homemade ones but only good for comparing glasses. All colors with left sign should go through as unaffected as possible for left lense while everything else should be blocked. Same for the right eye lense of course.
Anaglyph:
Colorcode:
I guess it's not really what you're after but it's a start. :D
I haven't found great success in this direction meaning that it might not be worth the time/effort to adjust colors because it looks like there's no ideal settings. Also if you adjust the tint too much then fleshtones get screwed up if you're trying to watch a 3d anaglyph movie or something.
So I wound up making my own and it's not professional so no one should think that it's accurate to calibrate with it but here it is. Thanks goes to Freke1 for the original Ghosting image/ideas that I built on. I made it so that it can be used with red/cyan, green/magenta, and yellow/blue glasses although I don't really think it's accurate to call Colorcode glasses yellow/blue because the colors are not exactly right.
It has been useful when comparing glasses to see which are better. The green lens from "Journey to the Center of the Earth" does a good job of greying out the red and the same goes for the blue (or indigo?) lens from Colorcode glasses. Also one X3D cyan lens worked better than another X3D cyan lens. The tiny glasses were better than the adult-sized. I think it's possible that they made some glasses so that they leak a wide range of colors on purpose so that you can see more of a color image at the expense of more ghosting. Also I think I read that Likay suggested that wearing two pairs at the same time can help with reducing ghosing and I agree.
This image is meant for one-eye use at a time in general. It could be better but I think I'm done with this effort. If anyone wants to improve this, I would recommend putting in a picture with a person so that you can see the effect of your color tweaking on fleshtones.
I haven't found great success in this direction meaning that it might not be worth the time/effort to adjust colors because it looks like there's no ideal settings. Also if you adjust the tint too much then fleshtones get screwed up if you're trying to watch a 3d anaglyph movie or something.
So I wound up making my own and it's not professional so no one should think that it's accurate to calibrate with it but here it is. Thanks goes to Freke1 for the original Ghosting image/ideas that I built on. I made it so that it can be used with red/cyan, green/magenta, and yellow/blue glasses although I don't really think it's accurate to call Colorcode glasses yellow/blue because the colors are not exactly right.
It has been useful when comparing glasses to see which are better. The green lens from "Journey to the Center of the Earth" does a good job of greying out the red and the same goes for the blue (or indigo?) lens from Colorcode glasses. Also one X3D cyan lens worked better than another X3D cyan lens. The tiny glasses were better than the adult-sized. I think it's possible that they made some glasses so that they leak a wide range of colors on purpose so that you can see more of a color image at the expense of more ghosting. Also I think I read that Likay suggested that wearing two pairs at the same time can help with reducing ghosing and I agree.
This image is meant for one-eye use at a time in general. It could be better but I think I'm done with this effort. If anyone wants to improve this, I would recommend putting in a picture with a person so that you can see the effect of your color tweaking on fleshtones.
Lol! Somebody has been busy.. (again). ;) :D
I got a tip about getting good filters for anaglyph though. Lee-filters makes a lot of different colornuances and a few of those is very suitable for anaglyph. Try [url="http://www.leefilters.com/lighting/products/finder/act:colourdetails/colourRef:C4630710C4384A/"](HT)026-Bright Red[/url] and [url="http://www.leefilters.com/lighting/products/finder/act:colourdetails/colourRef:C4630710C55187/"](HT)116-Medium Blue Green[/url]. A well sorted disco and light entrepreneur/boutique should be able to get these easily. You don't need to get the (HT) series but usually these are the only filters they have in stock.
I got a tip about getting good filters for anaglyph though. Lee-filters makes a lot of different colornuances and a few of those is very suitable for anaglyph. Try (HT)026-Bright Red and (HT)116-Medium Blue Green. A well sorted disco and light entrepreneur/boutique should be able to get these easily. You don't need to get the (HT) series but usually these are the only filters they have in stock.
I thought filters from a color wheel would be the best but they aren't.
Normally I don't care about anaglyph but it has its advantages like being able to print out a 3d image on paper.
What brought me to this was the dissatisfaction of watching anaglyph 3d movies at home. I get the sense that the movie companies will continue to give us only anaglyph on disc and not any other 3d format for some time still into the future. That's why I was hoping to be able to adjust my projector's color so the 3d is better but right now I'm not too hopeful and will probably not buy any more anaglyph movies unless I can convert them to frame-sequential. I know there's some software to do that and I've tried some of my own ideas but it looks like it's easy to reach a certain level of quality, then it gets hard to improve on that. I hope to go further in that direction eventually but for now I have other things to do.
The other reason for calibration is to take advantage of the Left/Right anaglyph color filter settings in the registry but this might need a different kind of test image. What's that nvidia Discover function? I guess I'll look that up myself.
I thought filters from a color wheel would be the best but they aren't.
Normally I don't care about anaglyph but it has its advantages like being able to print out a 3d image on paper.
What brought me to this was the dissatisfaction of watching anaglyph 3d movies at home. I get the sense that the movie companies will continue to give us only anaglyph on disc and not any other 3d format for some time still into the future. That's why I was hoping to be able to adjust my projector's color so the 3d is better but right now I'm not too hopeful and will probably not buy any more anaglyph movies unless I can convert them to frame-sequential. I know there's some software to do that and I've tried some of my own ideas but it looks like it's easy to reach a certain level of quality, then it gets hard to improve on that. I hope to go further in that direction eventually but for now I have other things to do.
The other reason for calibration is to take advantage of the Left/Right anaglyph color filter settings in the registry but this might need a different kind of test image. What's that nvidia Discover function? I guess I'll look that up myself.
OK, answered my own question. Nvidia's discover thing is not a function but just some anaglyph glasses that they will include with some (all?) new graphics cards sometime in the future (or present?). Some people say they're better than normal anaglyph glasses. Maybe they are, but whatever. There should be a function that you use like a wizard and it figures out the best anaglyph colors to use with your particular set of anaglyph glasses as well as recommend display color tweaks to make.
The next question is off-topic but I didn't really want to start a new thread.
How well does anaglyph work for colorblind people? It should still work right? It would be interesting to hear from anyone in that situation.
OK, answered my own question. Nvidia's discover thing is not a function but just some anaglyph glasses that they will include with some (all?) new graphics cards sometime in the future (or present?). Some people say they're better than normal anaglyph glasses. Maybe they are, but whatever. There should be a function that you use like a wizard and it figures out the best anaglyph colors to use with your particular set of anaglyph glasses as well as recommend display color tweaks to make.
The next question is off-topic but I didn't really want to start a new thread.
How well does anaglyph work for colorblind people? It should still work right? It would be interesting to hear from anyone in that situation.
Anaglyph works well for colorblind people i think. Their receptors are sensitive for all wavelengths but have problem seeing a specific or even all colors. I don't know if colorblinds actually get a better experience with anaglyph though. Theoretically they should.
About anaglyph: The original light in a monitor device is almost always white (there are exceptions, like crt-monitors and crt-beamers etc...) and after that filtered in each and every pixelelement. The actual stereoseparation is done by the filtering between the basecolors of the monitorspixels and the anaglyph glasses. Better filtering in the glasses as well as better filtering in the monitorpixels gives better ghosting rejection. Theoretically lasers and led's should be optimal for this purpose. Monitors have different properties both in choice of the exact basecolor for r-g-b and also how good and "narrow" the filtering of the pixels is. This makes some monitors working better than others with anaglyph no matter how good glasses you have. The receptors in the eyes aren't too picky when it comes to wavelengths. The different receptors wavelengths might even overlap a little. This is why infitec works as good as it does even if there seems like some colorcorrection needs to be done.
Anyway: Anaglyph is a great way to show 3d since the depth-effect is the same and just as good as with another solution. The nag is of course that colorreproduction suffers (not a tiny nag. /haha.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':haha:' /> ). Wearing colored filters for long periods makes the eyes go goofy for a while. I don't think it's dangerous though.
As is now, i actually always use anaglyph when it comes to one thing: Editing and finding the best alignment for homemade stereovideos and pictures.
Anaglyph works well for colorblind people i think. Their receptors are sensitive for all wavelengths but have problem seeing a specific or even all colors. I don't know if colorblinds actually get a better experience with anaglyph though. Theoretically they should.
About anaglyph: The original light in a monitor device is almost always white (there are exceptions, like crt-monitors and crt-beamers etc...) and after that filtered in each and every pixelelement. The actual stereoseparation is done by the filtering between the basecolors of the monitorspixels and the anaglyph glasses. Better filtering in the glasses as well as better filtering in the monitorpixels gives better ghosting rejection. Theoretically lasers and led's should be optimal for this purpose. Monitors have different properties both in choice of the exact basecolor for r-g-b and also how good and "narrow" the filtering of the pixels is. This makes some monitors working better than others with anaglyph no matter how good glasses you have. The receptors in the eyes aren't too picky when it comes to wavelengths. The different receptors wavelengths might even overlap a little. This is why infitec works as good as it does even if there seems like some colorcorrection needs to be done.
Anyway: Anaglyph is a great way to show 3d since the depth-effect is the same and just as good as with another solution. The nag is of course that colorreproduction suffers (not a tiny nag. /haha.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':haha:' /> ). Wearing colored filters for long periods makes the eyes go goofy for a while. I don't think it's dangerous though.
As is now, i actually always use anaglyph when it comes to one thing: Editing and finding the best alignment for homemade stereovideos and pictures.
I suppose I could try to make my own but I thought someone more professional might have a good one to share already. I searched the web with no good results. I would like multiple ones for red/blue, red/cyan, colortone, any others? I even have magenta/green and red/green but those are less used.
Thanks in advance to all who respond.
I suppose I could try to make my own but I thought someone more professional might have a good one to share already. I searched the web with no good results. I would like multiple ones for red/blue, red/cyan, colortone, any others? I even have magenta/green and red/green but those are less used.
Thanks in advance to all who respond.
Anaglyph:
[img]http://img87.imageshack.us/img87/6726/anaglyph.png[/img]
Colorcode:
[img]http://img522.imageshack.us/img522/6566/colorcodej.png[/img]
I guess it's not really what you're after but it's a start. :D
Anaglyph:
Colorcode:
I guess it's not really what you're after but it's a start. :D
Mb: Asus P5W DH Deluxe
Cpu: C2D E6600
Gb: Nvidia 7900GT + 8800GTX
3D:100" passive projector polarized setup + 22" IZ3D
Stereodrivers: Iz3d & Tridef ignition and nvidia old school.
I haven't found great success in this direction meaning that it might not be worth the time/effort to adjust colors because it looks like there's no ideal settings. Also if you adjust the tint too much then fleshtones get screwed up if you're trying to watch a 3d anaglyph movie or something.
So I wound up making my own and it's not professional so no one should think that it's accurate to calibrate with it but here it is. Thanks goes to Freke1 for the original Ghosting image/ideas that I built on. I made it so that it can be used with red/cyan, green/magenta, and yellow/blue glasses although I don't really think it's accurate to call Colorcode glasses yellow/blue because the colors are not exactly right.
It has been useful when comparing glasses to see which are better. The green lens from "Journey to the Center of the Earth" does a good job of greying out the red and the same goes for the blue (or indigo?) lens from Colorcode glasses. Also one X3D cyan lens worked better than another X3D cyan lens. The tiny glasses were better than the adult-sized. I think it's possible that they made some glasses so that they leak a wide range of colors on purpose so that you can see more of a color image at the expense of more ghosting. Also I think I read that Likay suggested that wearing two pairs at the same time can help with reducing ghosing and I agree.
This image is meant for one-eye use at a time in general. It could be better but I think I'm done with this effort. If anyone wants to improve this, I would recommend putting in a picture with a person so that you can see the effect of your color tweaking on fleshtones.
Later all.
I haven't found great success in this direction meaning that it might not be worth the time/effort to adjust colors because it looks like there's no ideal settings. Also if you adjust the tint too much then fleshtones get screwed up if you're trying to watch a 3d anaglyph movie or something.
So I wound up making my own and it's not professional so no one should think that it's accurate to calibrate with it but here it is. Thanks goes to Freke1 for the original Ghosting image/ideas that I built on. I made it so that it can be used with red/cyan, green/magenta, and yellow/blue glasses although I don't really think it's accurate to call Colorcode glasses yellow/blue because the colors are not exactly right.
It has been useful when comparing glasses to see which are better. The green lens from "Journey to the Center of the Earth" does a good job of greying out the red and the same goes for the blue (or indigo?) lens from Colorcode glasses. Also one X3D cyan lens worked better than another X3D cyan lens. The tiny glasses were better than the adult-sized. I think it's possible that they made some glasses so that they leak a wide range of colors on purpose so that you can see more of a color image at the expense of more ghosting. Also I think I read that Likay suggested that wearing two pairs at the same time can help with reducing ghosing and I agree.
This image is meant for one-eye use at a time in general. It could be better but I think I'm done with this effort. If anyone wants to improve this, I would recommend putting in a picture with a person so that you can see the effect of your color tweaking on fleshtones.
Later all.
I got a tip about getting good filters for anaglyph though. Lee-filters makes a lot of different colornuances and a few of those is very suitable for anaglyph. Try [url="http://www.leefilters.com/lighting/products/finder/act:colourdetails/colourRef:C4630710C4384A/"](HT)026-Bright Red[/url] and [url="http://www.leefilters.com/lighting/products/finder/act:colourdetails/colourRef:C4630710C55187/"](HT)116-Medium Blue Green[/url]. A well sorted disco and light entrepreneur/boutique should be able to get these easily. You don't need to get the (HT) series but usually these are the only filters they have in stock.
I got a tip about getting good filters for anaglyph though. Lee-filters makes a lot of different colornuances and a few of those is very suitable for anaglyph. Try (HT)026-Bright Red and (HT)116-Medium Blue Green. A well sorted disco and light entrepreneur/boutique should be able to get these easily. You don't need to get the (HT) series but usually these are the only filters they have in stock.
Mb: Asus P5W DH Deluxe
Cpu: C2D E6600
Gb: Nvidia 7900GT + 8800GTX
3D:100" passive projector polarized setup + 22" IZ3D
Stereodrivers: Iz3d & Tridef ignition and nvidia old school.
Normally I don't care about anaglyph but it has its advantages like being able to print out a 3d image on paper.
What brought me to this was the dissatisfaction of watching anaglyph 3d movies at home. I get the sense that the movie companies will continue to give us only anaglyph on disc and not any other 3d format for some time still into the future. That's why I was hoping to be able to adjust my projector's color so the 3d is better but right now I'm not too hopeful and will probably not buy any more anaglyph movies unless I can convert them to frame-sequential. I know there's some software to do that and I've tried some of my own ideas but it looks like it's easy to reach a certain level of quality, then it gets hard to improve on that. I hope to go further in that direction eventually but for now I have other things to do.
The other reason for calibration is to take advantage of the Left/Right anaglyph color filter settings in the registry but this might need a different kind of test image. What's that nvidia Discover function? I guess I'll look that up myself.
later.
Normally I don't care about anaglyph but it has its advantages like being able to print out a 3d image on paper.
What brought me to this was the dissatisfaction of watching anaglyph 3d movies at home. I get the sense that the movie companies will continue to give us only anaglyph on disc and not any other 3d format for some time still into the future. That's why I was hoping to be able to adjust my projector's color so the 3d is better but right now I'm not too hopeful and will probably not buy any more anaglyph movies unless I can convert them to frame-sequential. I know there's some software to do that and I've tried some of my own ideas but it looks like it's easy to reach a certain level of quality, then it gets hard to improve on that. I hope to go further in that direction eventually but for now I have other things to do.
The other reason for calibration is to take advantage of the Left/Right anaglyph color filter settings in the registry but this might need a different kind of test image. What's that nvidia Discover function? I guess I'll look that up myself.
later.
The next question is off-topic but I didn't really want to start a new thread.
How well does anaglyph work for colorblind people? It should still work right? It would be interesting to hear from anyone in that situation.
OK,
later.
The next question is off-topic but I didn't really want to start a new thread.
How well does anaglyph work for colorblind people? It should still work right? It would be interesting to hear from anyone in that situation.
OK,
later.
About anaglyph: The original light in a monitor device is almost always white (there are exceptions, like crt-monitors and crt-beamers etc...) and after that filtered in each and every pixelelement. The actual stereoseparation is done by the filtering between the basecolors of the monitorspixels and the anaglyph glasses. Better filtering in the glasses as well as better filtering in the monitorpixels gives better ghosting rejection. Theoretically lasers and led's should be optimal for this purpose. Monitors have different properties both in choice of the exact basecolor for r-g-b and also how good and "narrow" the filtering of the pixels is. This makes some monitors working better than others with anaglyph no matter how good glasses you have. The receptors in the eyes aren't too picky when it comes to wavelengths. The different receptors wavelengths might even overlap a little. This is why infitec works as good as it does even if there seems like some colorcorrection needs to be done.
Anyway: Anaglyph is a great way to show 3d since the depth-effect is the same and just as good as with another solution. The nag is of course that colorreproduction suffers (not a tiny nag.
As is now, i actually always use anaglyph when it comes to one thing: Editing and finding the best alignment for homemade stereovideos and pictures.
About anaglyph: The original light in a monitor device is almost always white (there are exceptions, like crt-monitors and crt-beamers etc...) and after that filtered in each and every pixelelement. The actual stereoseparation is done by the filtering between the basecolors of the monitorspixels and the anaglyph glasses. Better filtering in the glasses as well as better filtering in the monitorpixels gives better ghosting rejection. Theoretically lasers and led's should be optimal for this purpose. Monitors have different properties both in choice of the exact basecolor for r-g-b and also how good and "narrow" the filtering of the pixels is. This makes some monitors working better than others with anaglyph no matter how good glasses you have. The receptors in the eyes aren't too picky when it comes to wavelengths. The different receptors wavelengths might even overlap a little. This is why infitec works as good as it does even if there seems like some colorcorrection needs to be done.
Anyway: Anaglyph is a great way to show 3d since the depth-effect is the same and just as good as with another solution. The nag is of course that colorreproduction suffers (not a tiny nag.
As is now, i actually always use anaglyph when it comes to one thing: Editing and finding the best alignment for homemade stereovideos and pictures.
Mb: Asus P5W DH Deluxe
Cpu: C2D E6600
Gb: Nvidia 7900GT + 8800GTX
3D:100" passive projector polarized setup + 22" IZ3D
Stereodrivers: Iz3d & Tridef ignition and nvidia old school.