3D Vision replacement battery
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Depending on which connection is broken you might be able to bypass it with a very fine shielded wire, like if it's one(or both) of the power connections on the right side of the glasses you could probably trace where it's going... ...most likely straight to the board on left side of the glasses, I haven't had the 'pleasure' of opening any of mine up so far... odd that they'd put the battery that far away from everything, but if you could find a spot to solder to directly after the connector it might do the trick.
Depending on which connection is broken you might be able to bypass it with a very fine shielded wire, like if it's one(or both) of the power connections on the right side of the glasses you could probably trace where it's going...

...most likely straight to the board on left side of the glasses, I haven't had the 'pleasure' of opening any of mine up so far... odd that they'd put the battery that far away from everything, but if you could find a spot to solder to directly after the connector it might do the trick.
#16
Posted 02/20/2017 04:53 PM   
I remember hardwire reversing my LCD lenses years ago by scraping off the plastic jacket on the ribbon and soldering directly onto the ribbon wire traces. If I recall correctly, the lenses are connected by 2 power lines. They are easy to bypass using any old wire, although the thinner the better. It doesn't even have to be jacketed, as you can create your own ribbon cable by simply using 2 pieces of scotch tape around naked wire. I would personally not recommend "paint on" tracks as good stuff is difficult to come by, but even then, there is a definite resistance to the paint which is multiplied depending on length, which will dissipate power intended for your LCDs, meaning ghosting.
I remember hardwire reversing my LCD lenses years ago by scraping off the plastic jacket on the ribbon and soldering directly onto the ribbon wire traces. If I recall correctly, the lenses are connected by 2 power lines. They are easy to bypass using any old wire, although the thinner the better. It doesn't even have to be jacketed, as you can create your own ribbon cable by simply using 2 pieces of scotch tape around naked wire.

I would personally not recommend "paint on" tracks as good stuff is difficult to come by, but even then, there is a definite resistance to the paint which is multiplied depending on length, which will dissipate power intended for your LCDs, meaning ghosting.

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#17
Posted 02/20/2017 10:39 PM   
Sorry to bump an old thread, but is there a specific battery I need for v1 glasses? Will any 70mah lipo battery on ebay work? What's the largest capacity I can use? I would've bought v2 glasses if they weren't so expensive, a few months ago they were $20usd.
Sorry to bump an old thread, but is there a specific battery I need for v1 glasses? Will any 70mah lipo battery on ebay work? What's the largest capacity I can use?

I would've bought v2 glasses if they weren't so expensive, a few months ago they were $20usd.

#18
Posted 06/25/2019 06:34 AM   
[quote="Hiphoppapotamus"]Sorry to bump an old thread, but is there a specific battery I need for v1 glasses? Will any 70mah lipo battery on ebay work? What's the largest capacity I can use? I would've bought v2 glasses if they weren't so expensive, a few months ago they were $20usd. [/quote] Yes, any LiPo battery should work here. The one that 3DVisionBlog suggested was a higher capacity battery that still fits in the earpiece well. Be sure the batteries have not been sitting on the shelf for 10 years. I bought a set from an eBay seller that were direct replacements (including the connector), but both of them were dead on arrival and could not be pulse charged to life.
Hiphoppapotamus said:Sorry to bump an old thread, but is there a specific battery I need for v1 glasses? Will any 70mah lipo battery on ebay work? What's the largest capacity I can use?

I would've bought v2 glasses if they weren't so expensive, a few months ago they were $20usd.

Yes, any LiPo battery should work here. The one that 3DVisionBlog suggested was a higher capacity battery that still fits in the earpiece well.

Be sure the batteries have not been sitting on the shelf for 10 years. I bought a set from an eBay seller that were direct replacements (including the connector), but both of them were dead on arrival and could not be pulse charged to life.

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#19
Posted 06/26/2019 01:24 AM   
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