Hi Forum, im having a real hard time choosing what TV will be the best TV to purchase for gaming.
I'll be gaming on it 90% of the time and the rest of the time watching TV / Movies. I have an alienware M18x with Nvidia 460M (SLI) graphics cards. As far as I can see I have 3d vision and 3dtv play already installed and licensed etc.
Can someone please advise me what is the best technology to look for when buying the TV? Basically I want the most immersive 3d experience. I do understand already that i'll get a better result from a 120hz monitor but my rig is in my living room and needs to be on a 47 inch TV. Im based in the UK so TV's here are 50hz / 100 hz / 200 hz.
So these are my questions:
1. Should I get LCD or Plasma and why?
2. Will I have compatibility issues with 3d TV's or are all of them supported?
3. Is there a list of supported TV's?
4. Active or Passive 3d and why?
5. Is there much difference in user experience if I go for the higher refresh rate TV's (is it worth the extra spend)?
As its January i'd like to buy a TV now as they will be on sale.
Thanks for your help :)
Hi Forum, im having a real hard time choosing what TV will be the best TV to purchase for gaming.
I'll be gaming on it 90% of the time and the rest of the time watching TV / Movies. I have an alienware M18x with Nvidia 460M (SLI) graphics cards. As far as I can see I have 3d vision and 3dtv play already installed and licensed etc.
Can someone please advise me what is the best technology to look for when buying the TV? Basically I want the most immersive 3d experience. I do understand already that i'll get a better result from a 120hz monitor but my rig is in my living room and needs to be on a 47 inch TV. Im based in the UK so TV's here are 50hz / 100 hz / 200 hz.
So these are my questions:
1. Should I get LCD or Plasma and why?
2. Will I have compatibility issues with 3d TV's or are all of them supported?
3. Is there a list of supported TV's?
4. Active or Passive 3d and why?
5. Is there much difference in user experience if I go for the higher refresh rate TV's (is it worth the extra spend)?
As its January i'd like to buy a TV now as they will be on sale.
Plasma is pretty much dead technology now unless you are a film buff looking for the best cinematic image you can find outside of an analogue projector. Most companies don't manufacture them any more, and LCD has pretty much always been recommended for gaming.
I believe only certain TV's are supported by NVidia and you may need to look for an EDID(?) override to fool the nvidia drivers into thinking your TV is a supported one, but I'm no expert and I'm sure there are others here who know what to look for.
Active 3D is better for higher resolution and framerates, but the glasses are pretty expensive and have a battery life to take into account before you need to recharge them.
Passive 3D is better for cheap 3D glasses and brighter images with less colour loss, however resolution loss on passive 720 3D might start to look pretty bad on certain TV's where their 3D processing further reduces resolution, and the fact that passive glasses use polarisation to achieve the 3D effect, so each eye is only seeing 50% of the picture at any given time.
I believe most 3D TV's currently use HDMI which supports 60FPS 3D at 720p resolution maximum. Active 3D monitors can run 3D on powerful enough hardware at 1920x1080 120fps using dual link DVI.
I've never used or seen passive 3D other than watching Transformers 3 at the IMAX, however my friend tried it after having a go with my 27" Asus VG278H and he said his passive 24" screen looked terrible by comparison, and not just because of the reduced size. He said text was difficult to read and the depth was really poor.
Most of the TV sets will not be running at 200hz or 600hz. Higher refresh rates on TV's are usually only emulating the effect of higher refresh rates with clever processing. My 60hz Samsung TV has a 100hz processing mode which works great, but its still only running at 60hz. If you are gaming on a 3D TV you will need to turn off all the extra Post Processing to minimise input lag and picture latency that will hamper your gameplay.
Also, some TV's can suffer from ghosting pretty badly, so it's a good idea to try and test one out in a shop before you buy it, and make sure you can have a go at setting it up for the correct brightness and contrast.
If you want the best experience on something other than an active 3D monitor, a DLP projector is highly recommended. They don't suffer from ghosting and can give you a huge image for less than the cost of a 3D TV. You still need to play at 720p but you get the benefit of full resolution due to using active glasses.
Plasma is pretty much dead technology now unless you are a film buff looking for the best cinematic image you can find outside of an analogue projector. Most companies don't manufacture them any more, and LCD has pretty much always been recommended for gaming.
I believe only certain TV's are supported by NVidia and you may need to look for an EDID(?) override to fool the nvidia drivers into thinking your TV is a supported one, but I'm no expert and I'm sure there are others here who know what to look for.
Active 3D is better for higher resolution and framerates, but the glasses are pretty expensive and have a battery life to take into account before you need to recharge them.
Passive 3D is better for cheap 3D glasses and brighter images with less colour loss, however resolution loss on passive 720 3D might start to look pretty bad on certain TV's where their 3D processing further reduces resolution, and the fact that passive glasses use polarisation to achieve the 3D effect, so each eye is only seeing 50% of the picture at any given time.
I believe most 3D TV's currently use HDMI which supports 60FPS 3D at 720p resolution maximum. Active 3D monitors can run 3D on powerful enough hardware at 1920x1080 120fps using dual link DVI.
I've never used or seen passive 3D other than watching Transformers 3 at the IMAX, however my friend tried it after having a go with my 27" Asus VG278H and he said his passive 24" screen looked terrible by comparison, and not just because of the reduced size. He said text was difficult to read and the depth was really poor.
Most of the TV sets will not be running at 200hz or 600hz. Higher refresh rates on TV's are usually only emulating the effect of higher refresh rates with clever processing. My 60hz Samsung TV has a 100hz processing mode which works great, but its still only running at 60hz. If you are gaming on a 3D TV you will need to turn off all the extra Post Processing to minimise input lag and picture latency that will hamper your gameplay.
Also, some TV's can suffer from ghosting pretty badly, so it's a good idea to try and test one out in a shop before you buy it, and make sure you can have a go at setting it up for the correct brightness and contrast.
If you want the best experience on something other than an active 3D monitor, a DLP projector is highly recommended. They don't suffer from ghosting and can give you a huge image for less than the cost of a 3D TV. You still need to play at 720p but you get the benefit of full resolution due to using active glasses.
@sporadic_kit
Please do not consider me an expert!, and am only going to speak to my own experiences, the 3dtv and monitors and projectors I've had. And the VERY expensive mistakes and pleasures of 3D.
Since I don't have the time/nor ability to focus for long periods of time, I have "almost" always purchased displays that are Nvidia "certified" to work. I search and asked questions in these forums, google like crazy, and read and search and ask questions here also - http://3dvision-blog.com/
Recently, I was contemplating getting something new, but am definitely holding off on "new" until after CES 2014, and maybe longer.
Ok, my experience:
I started with anaglyph, red/cyan glasses in about 2006?, and shortly thereafter purchased my first 3d vision kit along with a Samsung RZ2233 monitor. Then ended up with 3 of those for surround.
Next was the Planar SA2311W x 3.
Then I wanted big, so went with the Acer H5360 (not H5360BD) This was great as had my PC hooked up to it for gaming and 3D movies on a 100" screen. I also had it hooked up to my cablebox/dvr. No Ghosting and loved it. Note no ghosting, and this is where the benchmark for big started.
Mistake #1. 2012. We moved, and I gave away my H5360/screen/pc to some kids. The kids still love me. I purchased a Mitsubishi Laservue 75"/DLP/Checkerboard. The screen was too shiny, had problems with getting the right resolution to display, etc. Returned it and had to eat some $ on the return.
Mistake #2. Got a Sharp Aquos 80". Ya, works with 3dtv play at 720p/120hz, 1080/24hz (forget it!). Ya, works with 3d blurays on a sony BD player. Problem?, the benchmark for ghosting was established with the Projector/5360. It drives me nuts. Ok, now I have a nice TV that people in the house can watch TV on.
Next project, redo my surround, and have the Asus VG278H x 3, there was some issues getting the IR emitter working right, but very nice and still have as my surround.
Back to big screen. 2 Months ago, I went out and found an Acer H5360, and put that back up on the wall. I use that for big gaming. No ghosting (with the right game and fixes you find here), depth and convergence can be tweaked to make me cry with joy. Using Cyberlink DVD, now use that for all my Bluray 3d, no ghosting... On the screen, I didn't get a pull down one, as the curling corners of my last one drove me nuts, and then the 1.5# weights I had hanging from the corners looked funny and didn't really work that good, so got a flat 110" fixed screen, Cima by Stewart.
What I'm hoping for??? I higher res projector/delivery of higher res from pc to projector actually. And for the time being, sticking to active shutter. All will change in due course.
That's all :-)
Please do not consider me an expert!, and am only going to speak to my own experiences, the 3dtv and monitors and projectors I've had. And the VERY expensive mistakes and pleasures of 3D.
Since I don't have the time/nor ability to focus for long periods of time, I have "almost" always purchased displays that are Nvidia "certified" to work. I search and asked questions in these forums, google like crazy, and read and search and ask questions here also - http://3dvision-blog.com/
Recently, I was contemplating getting something new, but am definitely holding off on "new" until after CES 2014, and maybe longer.
Ok, my experience:
I started with anaglyph, red/cyan glasses in about 2006?, and shortly thereafter purchased my first 3d vision kit along with a Samsung RZ2233 monitor. Then ended up with 3 of those for surround.
Next was the Planar SA2311W x 3.
Then I wanted big, so went with the Acer H5360 (not H5360BD) This was great as had my PC hooked up to it for gaming and 3D movies on a 100" screen. I also had it hooked up to my cablebox/dvr. No Ghosting and loved it. Note no ghosting, and this is where the benchmark for big started.
Mistake #1. 2012. We moved, and I gave away my H5360/screen/pc to some kids. The kids still love me. I purchased a Mitsubishi Laservue 75"/DLP/Checkerboard. The screen was too shiny, had problems with getting the right resolution to display, etc. Returned it and had to eat some $ on the return.
Mistake #2. Got a Sharp Aquos 80". Ya, works with 3dtv play at 720p/120hz, 1080/24hz (forget it!). Ya, works with 3d blurays on a sony BD player. Problem?, the benchmark for ghosting was established with the Projector/5360. It drives me nuts. Ok, now I have a nice TV that people in the house can watch TV on.
Next project, redo my surround, and have the Asus VG278H x 3, there was some issues getting the IR emitter working right, but very nice and still have as my surround.
Back to big screen. 2 Months ago, I went out and found an Acer H5360, and put that back up on the wall. I use that for big gaming. No ghosting (with the right game and fixes you find here), depth and convergence can be tweaked to make me cry with joy. Using Cyberlink DVD, now use that for all my Bluray 3d, no ghosting... On the screen, I didn't get a pull down one, as the curling corners of my last one drove me nuts, and then the 1.5# weights I had hanging from the corners looked funny and didn't really work that good, so got a flat 110" fixed screen, Cima by Stewart.
What I'm hoping for??? I higher res projector/delivery of higher res from pc to projector actually. And for the time being, sticking to active shutter. All will change in due course.
You used to be able to tell which TVs were supported by 3DTV Play from the nvidia site. I can't find any such list there any more. How are you supposed to find out which TVs are supported before buying one?
You used to be able to tell which TVs were supported by 3DTV Play from the nvidia site. I can't find any such list there any more. How are you supposed to find out which TVs are supported before buying one?
If your 3d-tv supports 3d through hdmi 1.4 then 3d-tvplay should work with it (in theory but seems not to be true, look below).
Tv's that supports 3d-vision and 3d-visionglasses needs to be listed. Even if they can handle true refreshrate of 120Hz they still need to be whitelisted by nvidia.
If your 3d-tv supports 3d through hdmi 1.4 then 3d-tvplay should work with it (in theory but seems not to be true, look below).
Tv's that supports 3d-vision and 3d-visionglasses needs to be listed. Even if they can handle true refreshrate of 120Hz they still need to be whitelisted by nvidia.
Well, my current TV was not supported until a certain driver release so its hard to "assume" a tv supports it only to find you can't enable 3DTV Play because the driver does not recognise your TV (speaking from that exact experience) unless they changed something.
Well, my current TV was not supported until a certain driver release so its hard to "assume" a tv supports it only to find you can't enable 3DTV Play because the driver does not recognise your TV (speaking from that exact experience) unless they changed something.
My Visio 32" 3D TV works fine with Nvidia. As I remember I had to use a generic definition file for the monitor driver. It's just an ini file you can find here and there. Most 3D TV's will work if you can find the right definition file. Just saying...
My Visio 32" 3D TV works fine with Nvidia. As I remember I had to use a generic definition file for the monitor driver. It's just an ini file you can find here and there. Most 3D TV's will work if you can find the right definition file. Just saying...
I am the customer. I am always right. And, I am always looking for something better!!!
Re: If a TV works, not sure if still relevant, but I did input my request for one of my TV's a while back when I was fiddling with this. Honestly, don't recall the/any response.
http://nvidia.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/2774/
Re: If a TV works, not sure if still relevant, but I did input my request for one of my TV's a while back when I was fiddling with this. Honestly, don't recall the/any response.
I'll be gaming on it 90% of the time and the rest of the time watching TV / Movies. I have an alienware M18x with Nvidia 460M (SLI) graphics cards. As far as I can see I have 3d vision and 3dtv play already installed and licensed etc.
Can someone please advise me what is the best technology to look for when buying the TV? Basically I want the most immersive 3d experience. I do understand already that i'll get a better result from a 120hz monitor but my rig is in my living room and needs to be on a 47 inch TV. Im based in the UK so TV's here are 50hz / 100 hz / 200 hz.
So these are my questions:
1. Should I get LCD or Plasma and why?
2. Will I have compatibility issues with 3d TV's or are all of them supported?
3. Is there a list of supported TV's?
4. Active or Passive 3d and why?
5. Is there much difference in user experience if I go for the higher refresh rate TV's (is it worth the extra spend)?
As its January i'd like to buy a TV now as they will be on sale.
Thanks for your help :)
I believe only certain TV's are supported by NVidia and you may need to look for an EDID(?) override to fool the nvidia drivers into thinking your TV is a supported one, but I'm no expert and I'm sure there are others here who know what to look for.
Active 3D is better for higher resolution and framerates, but the glasses are pretty expensive and have a battery life to take into account before you need to recharge them.
Passive 3D is better for cheap 3D glasses and brighter images with less colour loss, however resolution loss on passive 720 3D might start to look pretty bad on certain TV's where their 3D processing further reduces resolution, and the fact that passive glasses use polarisation to achieve the 3D effect, so each eye is only seeing 50% of the picture at any given time.
I believe most 3D TV's currently use HDMI which supports 60FPS 3D at 720p resolution maximum. Active 3D monitors can run 3D on powerful enough hardware at 1920x1080 120fps using dual link DVI.
I've never used or seen passive 3D other than watching Transformers 3 at the IMAX, however my friend tried it after having a go with my 27" Asus VG278H and he said his passive 24" screen looked terrible by comparison, and not just because of the reduced size. He said text was difficult to read and the depth was really poor.
Most of the TV sets will not be running at 200hz or 600hz. Higher refresh rates on TV's are usually only emulating the effect of higher refresh rates with clever processing. My 60hz Samsung TV has a 100hz processing mode which works great, but its still only running at 60hz. If you are gaming on a 3D TV you will need to turn off all the extra Post Processing to minimise input lag and picture latency that will hamper your gameplay.
Also, some TV's can suffer from ghosting pretty badly, so it's a good idea to try and test one out in a shop before you buy it, and make sure you can have a go at setting it up for the correct brightness and contrast.
If you want the best experience on something other than an active 3D monitor, a DLP projector is highly recommended. They don't suffer from ghosting and can give you a huge image for less than the cost of a 3D TV. You still need to play at 720p but you get the benefit of full resolution due to using active glasses.
i7 4790k @ 4.6 - 16GB RAM - 2x SLI Titan X
27" ASUS ROG SWIFT, 28" - 65" Samsung UHD8200 4k 3DTV - Oculus Rift CV1 - 34" Acer Predator X34 Ultrawide
Old kit:
i5 2500k @ 4.4 - 8gb RAM
Acer H5360BD projector
GTX 580, SLI 670, GTX 980 EVGA SC
Acer XB280HK 4k 60hz
Oculus DK2
Please do not consider me an expert!, and am only going to speak to my own experiences, the 3dtv and monitors and projectors I've had. And the VERY expensive mistakes and pleasures of 3D.
Since I don't have the time/nor ability to focus for long periods of time, I have "almost" always purchased displays that are Nvidia "certified" to work. I search and asked questions in these forums, google like crazy, and read and search and ask questions here also - http://3dvision-blog.com/
Recently, I was contemplating getting something new, but am definitely holding off on "new" until after CES 2014, and maybe longer.
Ok, my experience:
I started with anaglyph, red/cyan glasses in about 2006?, and shortly thereafter purchased my first 3d vision kit along with a Samsung RZ2233 monitor. Then ended up with 3 of those for surround.
Next was the Planar SA2311W x 3.
Then I wanted big, so went with the Acer H5360 (not H5360BD) This was great as had my PC hooked up to it for gaming and 3D movies on a 100" screen. I also had it hooked up to my cablebox/dvr. No Ghosting and loved it. Note no ghosting, and this is where the benchmark for big started.
Mistake #1. 2012. We moved, and I gave away my H5360/screen/pc to some kids. The kids still love me. I purchased a Mitsubishi Laservue 75"/DLP/Checkerboard. The screen was too shiny, had problems with getting the right resolution to display, etc. Returned it and had to eat some $ on the return.
Mistake #2. Got a Sharp Aquos 80". Ya, works with 3dtv play at 720p/120hz, 1080/24hz (forget it!). Ya, works with 3d blurays on a sony BD player. Problem?, the benchmark for ghosting was established with the Projector/5360. It drives me nuts. Ok, now I have a nice TV that people in the house can watch TV on.
Next project, redo my surround, and have the Asus VG278H x 3, there was some issues getting the IR emitter working right, but very nice and still have as my surround.
Back to big screen. 2 Months ago, I went out and found an Acer H5360, and put that back up on the wall. I use that for big gaming. No ghosting (with the right game and fixes you find here), depth and convergence can be tweaked to make me cry with joy. Using Cyberlink DVD, now use that for all my Bluray 3d, no ghosting... On the screen, I didn't get a pull down one, as the curling corners of my last one drove me nuts, and then the 1.5# weights I had hanging from the corners looked funny and didn't really work that good, so got a flat 110" fixed screen, Cima by Stewart.
What I'm hoping for??? I higher res projector/delivery of higher res from pc to projector actually. And for the time being, sticking to active shutter. All will change in due course.
That's all :-)
Please seriously consider going with a DLP projector, since you want it 90% for gaming.
Acer H5360 (1280x720@120Hz) - ASUS VG248QE with GSync mod - 3D Vision 1&2 - Driver 372.54
GTX 970 - i5-4670K@4.2GHz - 12GB RAM - Win7x64+evilKB2670838 - 4 Disk X25 RAID
SAGER NP9870-S - GTX 980 - i7-6700K - Win10 Pro 1607
Latest 3Dmigoto Release
Bo3b's School for ShaderHackers
Tv's that supports 3d-vision and 3d-visionglasses needs to be listed. Even if they can handle true refreshrate of 120Hz they still need to be whitelisted by nvidia.
Mb: Asus P5W DH Deluxe
Cpu: C2D E6600
Gb: Nvidia 7900GT + 8800GTX
3D:100" passive projector polarized setup + 22" IZ3D
Stereodrivers: Iz3d & Tridef ignition and nvidia old school.
Mb: Asus P5W DH Deluxe
Cpu: C2D E6600
Gb: Nvidia 7900GT + 8800GTX
3D:100" passive projector polarized setup + 22" IZ3D
Stereodrivers: Iz3d & Tridef ignition and nvidia old school.
I am the customer. I am always right. And, I am always looking for something better!!!
http://nvidia.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/2774/