Projector questions
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Hey guys, So I picked up a projector (BenQ W1070) from a store with a generous return policy because I wanted to see if I could feasibly set one up in my room. Turns out I can! So now I have a few questions. Is this a good projector for 3d vision? It doesn't come with glasses, so I'll have to shell out for a couple if I decide to keep it. If there's something better (in a similar price range), what should I look for? Several games I launched don't have refresh rate options (namely Titanfall, Arkham Origins), and I was getting the red text warning that 720p/120hz isn't supported despite resolution being set to 720p/60hz in nvidia control panel. Is this a common problem, and is it easily fixed? I've heard of edid overrides - could I do that to make my PC think the projector can't do 120, and automatically force 60? 3d seemed to have a slightly red tint. Is this normal, and will it be eliminated by the glasses? Does 720/60 mean I'll be getting 30fps per eye? How laggy does that feel compared to 1080/120? It's projecting onto a wall at the end of my bed, but I'm going to need some kind of sound. Without going overboard, what's a reasonable way to set that up?
Hey guys,

So I picked up a projector (BenQ W1070) from a store with a generous return policy because I wanted to see if I could feasibly set one up in my room. Turns out I can! So now I have a few questions.

Is this a good projector for 3d vision? It doesn't come with glasses, so I'll have to shell out for a couple if I decide to keep it. If there's something better (in a similar price range), what should I look for?

Several games I launched don't have refresh rate options (namely Titanfall, Arkham Origins), and I was getting the red text warning that 720p/120hz isn't supported despite resolution being set to 720p/60hz in nvidia control panel. Is this a common problem, and is it easily fixed? I've heard of edid overrides - could I do that to make my PC think the projector can't do 120, and automatically force 60?

3d seemed to have a slightly red tint. Is this normal, and will it be eliminated by the glasses?

Does 720/60 mean I'll be getting 30fps per eye? How laggy does that feel compared to 1080/120?

It's projecting onto a wall at the end of my bed, but I'm going to need some kind of sound. Without going overboard, what's a reasonable way to set that up?

#1
Posted 04/09/2014 12:23 PM   
The Benq 1070/1080ST models rate near or at the top of their "class" in picture quality: brightness, dark level and color accuracy. I have the "short throw" version of this projector. If watching 3D-Blueray's or 2D gaming @ 1080P is not important to you there are much less expensive options available. The projector is "3DPlay" compatible but comically may need an EDID overide to work with some games. (I had issues with Metro2033). As a DLP projector it is compatible with "DLPLINK" glasses. Benq has some fairly expensive ($70+) ones available or there are countless less expensive options available. (I'm currently happy with a pair of "True Depth 3D" v3.5 glasses) The projector requires 144Hz compatible glasses. There is a very long thread about compatible glasses over on the AVSForums and some debate as to what is "good enough". (some models don't quite cut it) The "red tint" is the 3D "sync" signal for the glasses which with a decent pair will be completely blocked. 720P/60 equates to 60Fps per eye using "frame packing", top/bottom or L/R. These models are outfitted with a pair of cruddy speakers so you can get some sound out of the unit itself. (I have 3x 3.5MM audio cables out the back of the HTPC feeding a HTreceiver 5.1 sound system)
The Benq 1070/1080ST models rate near or at the top of their "class" in picture quality: brightness, dark level and color accuracy. I have the "short throw" version of this projector. If watching 3D-Blueray's or 2D gaming @ 1080P is not important to you there are much less expensive options available.

The projector is "3DPlay" compatible but comically may need an EDID overide to work with some games. (I had issues with Metro2033).

As a DLP projector it is compatible with "DLPLINK" glasses. Benq has some fairly expensive ($70+) ones available or there are countless less expensive options available. (I'm currently happy with a pair of "True Depth 3D" v3.5 glasses) The projector requires 144Hz compatible glasses. There is a very long thread about compatible glasses over on the AVSForums and some debate as to what is "good enough". (some models don't quite cut it)

The "red tint" is the 3D "sync" signal for the glasses which with a decent pair will be completely blocked. 720P/60 equates to 60Fps per eye using "frame packing", top/bottom or L/R.

These models are outfitted with a pair of cruddy speakers so you can get some sound out of the unit itself. (I have 3x 3.5MM audio cables out the back of the HTPC feeding a HTreceiver 5.1 sound system)

i7-2600K-4.5Ghz/Corsair H100i/8GB/GTX780SC-SLI/Win7-64/1200W-PSU/Samsung 840-500GB SSD/Coolermaster-Tower/Benq 1080ST @ 100"

#2
Posted 04/09/2014 12:50 PM   
Nice! Let us know how it goes - it'll be interesting to read your thoughts given that you've been a monitor user all this time (I'm also thinking about getting a projector one day. Since I'm a monitor user I can't help with any of your projector questions, but when it comes to sound, I have found two things, both of which seem to contradict each other a little I guess: (1) 5.1 surround sound is brilliant, and trumps stereo speakers any day (in gaming), I don't care how good those stereo speakers are. As long as your 5.1 system has a good subwoofer, any old crap does fine (music won't sound great, but games will!) Obviously a very high quality 5.1 setup would be best, but you won't find one of those at anything resembling a sane price. So just go with any old crap as long as the subwoofer looks big. (2) Almost conversely to (1), I find that a great set of headphones can actually be more satisfying than 5.1. For a few hundred, you'll get audio quality that would cost you 5x more if you went the 5.1 (or even stereo) route. Another 'benefit' of using headphones is that not all games are well optimised for surround sound, and getting it to work properly can be annoying sometimes. I game exclusively with headphones nowadays, using my Shure SRH1840s (and previously Audio Technica ATH700s - half the price but also great), and an external dedicated USB headphone amp (not necessary, but it does make a noticeable difference in sound clarity and bass). I do miss the positional sound of 5.1, and the floor-rumbling bass of a subwoofer in combat scenes (though my wife doesn't!) but the level of clarity and nuance of decent headphones can't be beaten [except by 5.1 systems approaching the 5-digit price range]. Probably the [url="http://headphones.com.au/"]best place to buy headphones in Australia[/url] happens to be in your neck of the woods. They have a very generous returns policy.
Nice! Let us know how it goes - it'll be interesting to read your thoughts given that you've been a monitor user all this time (I'm also thinking about getting a projector one day.

Since I'm a monitor user I can't help with any of your projector questions, but when it comes to sound, I have found two things, both of which seem to contradict each other a little I guess:

(1) 5.1 surround sound is brilliant, and trumps stereo speakers any day (in gaming), I don't care how good those stereo speakers are. As long as your 5.1 system has a good subwoofer, any old crap does fine (music won't sound great, but games will!) Obviously a very high quality 5.1 setup would be best, but you won't find one of those at anything resembling a sane price. So just go with any old crap as long as the subwoofer looks big.

(2) Almost conversely to (1), I find that a great set of headphones can actually be more satisfying than 5.1. For a few hundred, you'll get audio quality that would cost you 5x more if you went the 5.1 (or even stereo) route. Another 'benefit' of using headphones is that not all games are well optimised for surround sound, and getting it to work properly can be annoying sometimes.

I game exclusively with headphones nowadays, using my Shure SRH1840s (and previously Audio Technica ATH700s - half the price but also great), and an external dedicated USB headphone amp (not necessary, but it does make a noticeable difference in sound clarity and bass).

I do miss the positional sound of 5.1, and the floor-rumbling bass of a subwoofer in combat scenes (though my wife doesn't!) but the level of clarity and nuance of decent headphones can't be beaten [except by 5.1 systems approaching the 5-digit price range]. Probably the best place to buy headphones in Australia happens to be in your neck of the woods. They have a very generous returns policy.

ImageVolnaPC.com - Tips, tweaks, performance comparisons (PhysX card, SLI scaling, etc)

#3
Posted 04/09/2014 01:09 PM   
I also recently got the W1070, "upgrading" from my Acer H5360BD 720p 3D projector. Overall I find the image better than my Acer, but it needed some tweeking, and I'm still adjusting settings in the projector here and there. DLP-link glasses, you only need 144hz compatible glasses for 24fps content: 3D Blu-rays, or games at 1080p 24fps 3D. For 720p 60fps 3D, any DLP-link glasses are fine. I continue to use my older 120hz DLP-link glasses for 720p 3D games, as they're more comfortable. I would agree to not go cheap on the glasses though. For sound, I don't know, it depends on your room and budget. A pair of computer speakers aren't bad. A pair of good headphones would be good too. I have an AV receiver powering 5.1 surround speakers, and I would recommend that if possible. You definitely need an EDID override to get 720p 60fps to work in some games. This is a good solution: [url]https://forums.geforce.com/default/topic/573000/3d-vision/benq-w-1080st-3dtv-play-help/2/[/url] It's not so easy if you have a receiver in the mix as I do though. What eventually worked for me was connecting my H5360BD to my PC through my receiver, using MonInfo to create an EDID Inf for that configuration, then installing that with the W1070 in the chain instead of the H5360BD. That allowed my game to work in 720p 3D, as well as all the audio options I expect through my receiver.
I also recently got the W1070, "upgrading" from my Acer H5360BD 720p 3D projector. Overall I find the image better than my Acer, but it needed some tweeking, and I'm still adjusting settings in the projector here and there.

DLP-link glasses, you only need 144hz compatible glasses for 24fps content: 3D Blu-rays, or games at 1080p 24fps 3D. For 720p 60fps 3D, any DLP-link glasses are fine. I continue to use my older 120hz DLP-link glasses for 720p 3D games, as they're more comfortable. I would agree to not go cheap on the glasses though.

For sound, I don't know, it depends on your room and budget. A pair of computer speakers aren't bad. A pair of good headphones would be good too. I have an AV receiver powering 5.1 surround speakers, and I would recommend that if possible.

You definitely need an EDID override to get 720p 60fps to work in some games. This is a good solution: https://forums.geforce.com/default/topic/573000/3d-vision/benq-w-1080st-3dtv-play-help/2/ It's not so easy if you have a receiver in the mix as I do though. What eventually worked for me was connecting my H5360BD to my PC through my receiver, using MonInfo to create an EDID Inf for that configuration, then installing that with the W1070 in the chain instead of the H5360BD. That allowed my game to work in 720p 3D, as well as all the audio options I expect through my receiver.

#4
Posted 04/09/2014 01:29 PM   
[quote="Pirateguybrush"]3d seemed to have a slightly red tint. Is this normal, and will it be eliminated by the glasses?[/quote] Yes, the red tint is normal, and yes, the glasses will fully eliminate it if they're good quality. [quote="Pirateguybrush"]Does 720/60 mean I'll be getting 30fps per eye? How laggy does that feel compared to 1080/120?[/quote] No, 720p 60fps 3D means 60fps per eye. It's the same frame rate you'd get with a 1080p 3D Vision monitor.
Pirateguybrush said:3d seemed to have a slightly red tint. Is this normal, and will it be eliminated by the glasses?


Yes, the red tint is normal, and yes, the glasses will fully eliminate it if they're good quality.

Pirateguybrush said:Does 720/60 mean I'll be getting 30fps per eye? How laggy does that feel compared to 1080/120?


No, 720p 60fps 3D means 60fps per eye. It's the same frame rate you'd get with a 1080p 3D Vision monitor.

#5
Posted 04/09/2014 01:45 PM   
Thanks for the replies guys, much appreciated! A few follow-ups if you don't mind? Do you have any suggestions for other models that would provide a similar experience for 720p? Quality is fairly important as I need to project a reasonable image onto a wall instead of a screen, but I could live without 1080p. It seems like the "3d vision" models are largely out of production and hard to find. I'm happy to stick with the 1070 though, as it seems like it's well-regarded. Once I do an EDID override, is it likely to solve all 3dtvplay-related problems, or are some likely to linger? I have headphones (the ATH700 in fact), and I have a decent set of PC speakers. Trouble is, the projector will be watched by multiple people on a regular basis, so I'll need sound that's not just local to my desk. Considering a 5.1 setup, but ideally I'd have a setup where I can quickly swap between 5.1 output, stereo speakers on my desk, and headphones. Currently my headphones plug into the top of my case, and plugging them in disables the speakers - so I'm 2/3rds of the way there. At the moment I'm considering getting a 5.1 set with wireless speakers, at a budget of around $500 (max $600). Something like these: http://www.thegoodguys.com.au/buyonline/Sony_3D_Blu-Ray_Home_Theatre_1000W_BDVN9100B http://www.thegoodguys.com.au/buyonline/LG_3D_Blu-Ray_Home_Theatre_1200W_BH7530WB I was thinking of plugging the receiver in via optical - would that avoid complicating the EDID override? Finally, any recommendations for glasses? There's a million different models, and I'm having trouble picking which are expensive because they can be, and which are expensive because they're worthwhile. I'd rather they be available in Australia (or at least without stupidly high shipping costs). Will the reduced brightness in 3d be a significant problem when projected onto a wall, as opposed to a screen? Are these likely to be awful? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Sintron-2-Pairs-3D-Ready-DLP-LINK-96hz-144hz-Active-Glasses-for-Projectors-/171181890903?pt=AU_3D_Glasses&hash=item27db3c5d57
Thanks for the replies guys, much appreciated! A few follow-ups if you don't mind?

Do you have any suggestions for other models that would provide a similar experience for 720p? Quality is fairly important as I need to project a reasonable image onto a wall instead of a screen, but I could live without 1080p. It seems like the "3d vision" models are largely out of production and hard to find. I'm happy to stick with the 1070 though, as it seems like it's well-regarded.

Once I do an EDID override, is it likely to solve all 3dtvplay-related problems, or are some likely to linger?

I have headphones (the ATH700 in fact), and I have a decent set of PC speakers. Trouble is, the projector will be watched by multiple people on a regular basis, so I'll need sound that's not just local to my desk. Considering a 5.1 setup, but ideally I'd have a setup where I can quickly swap between 5.1 output, stereo speakers on my desk, and headphones. Currently my headphones plug into the top of my case, and plugging them in disables the speakers - so I'm 2/3rds of the way there.

At the moment I'm considering getting a 5.1 set with wireless speakers, at a budget of around $500 (max $600). Something like these:
http://www.thegoodguys.com.au/buyonline/Sony_3D_Blu-Ray_Home_Theatre_1000W_BDVN9100B
http://www.thegoodguys.com.au/buyonline/LG_3D_Blu-Ray_Home_Theatre_1200W_BH7530WB

I was thinking of plugging the receiver in via optical - would that avoid complicating the EDID override?

Finally, any recommendations for glasses? There's a million different models, and I'm having trouble picking which are expensive because they can be, and which are expensive because they're worthwhile. I'd rather they be available in Australia (or at least without stupidly high shipping costs). Will the reduced brightness in 3d be a significant problem when projected onto a wall, as opposed to a screen?

Are these likely to be awful?
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Sintron-2-Pairs-3D-Ready-DLP-LINK-96hz-144hz-Active-Glasses-for-Projectors-/171181890903?pt=AU_3D_Glasses&hash=item27db3c5d57

#6
Posted 04/09/2014 02:47 PM   
Just keep in mind if you plan to get a rift that speakers are kind of bad for it. So you won't be using it for that.
Just keep in mind if you plan to get a rift that speakers are kind of bad for it. So you won't be using it for that.

Co-founder of helixmod.blog.com

If you like one of my helixmod patches and want to donate. Can send to me through paypal - eqzitara@yahoo.com

#7
Posted 04/09/2014 07:57 PM   
[quote="Pirateguybrush"]Considering a 5.1 setup, but ideally I'd have a setup where I can quickly swap between 5.1 output, stereo speakers on my desk, and headphones. [/quote] I have a super-convenient setup that lets me switch between headphones and 5.1 at the single touch of a button. It's somewhat dependent on equipment, but this is how I do it: -My motherboard has an onboard sound chip. I also use this [url="http://headphones.com.au/psingle?productID=813"]headphone amp [/url]that plugs directly into USB. Thus, I have two separate separate "sound devices" as far as Windows is concerned. (You could achieve the same thing with a $30 dedicated sound card) -My headphones are permanently plugged into the headphone amp, and the speakers are permanently plugged into the onboard audio jacks. I never have to unplug or switch any cables. -By enabling one device and disabling the other in Windows Sound settings, I can quickly switch between sound outputs. I use [url="http://funk.eu/ssd/"]a little utility called SSD[/url] to automate this process (it creates a small EXE for each device). -I devote two of the macro keys on my [url="http://gaming.logitech.com/en-au/product/g510s-lcd-gaming-keyboard"]Logitech G510s[/url] keyboard to these EXEs. So when I press one key, it turns on the speakers; when I press the other, it turns on the headphones. I even used my printer to label those keys with icons of speakers and headphones. -Finally, I use a master/slave power board, with the PC in the master socket, and the 5.1 speakers in one of the slave sockets, so that the speakers will turn on/off in sync with the PC without me having to manually turn them on/off. [quote="Pirateguybrush"]I have headphones (the ATH700 in fact)[/quote] Do people laugh at you wearing them? They're the single-most comfortable headphones I've ever worn but man do they look silly :D Amazing soundstage though - but crappy bass if you don't have an amp.
Pirateguybrush said:Considering a 5.1 setup, but ideally I'd have a setup where I can quickly swap between 5.1 output, stereo speakers on my desk, and headphones.

I have a super-convenient setup that lets me switch between headphones and 5.1 at the single touch of a button. It's somewhat dependent on equipment, but this is how I do it:

-My motherboard has an onboard sound chip. I also use this headphone amp that plugs directly into USB. Thus, I have two separate separate "sound devices" as far as Windows is concerned. (You could achieve the same thing with a $30 dedicated sound card)

-My headphones are permanently plugged into the headphone amp, and the speakers are permanently plugged into the onboard audio jacks. I never have to unplug or switch any cables.

-By enabling one device and disabling the other in Windows Sound settings, I can quickly switch between sound outputs. I use a little utility called SSD to automate this process (it creates a small EXE for each device).

-I devote two of the macro keys on my Logitech G510s keyboard to these EXEs. So when I press one key, it turns on the speakers; when I press the other, it turns on the headphones. I even used my printer to label those keys with icons of speakers and headphones.

-Finally, I use a master/slave power board, with the PC in the master socket, and the 5.1 speakers in one of the slave sockets, so that the speakers will turn on/off in sync with the PC without me having to manually turn them on/off.



Pirateguybrush said:I have headphones (the ATH700 in fact)
Do people laugh at you wearing them? They're the single-most comfortable headphones I've ever worn but man do they look silly :D Amazing soundstage though - but crappy bass if you don't have an amp.

ImageVolnaPC.com - Tips, tweaks, performance comparisons (PhysX card, SLI scaling, etc)

#8
Posted 04/09/2014 10:38 PM   
[quote="Pirateguybrush"] Are these likely to be awful? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Sintron-2-Pairs-3D-Ready-DLP-LINK-96hz-144hz-Active-Glasses-for-Projectors-/171181890903?pt=AU_3D_Glasses&hash=item27db3c5d57[/quote] Totally missed this post. Most dlp link glasses are trash for gaming. Though decent for movies. If its just sold on ebay its almost certainly. If its a no-name brand I'd totally disregard it. Of all the dlp-link glasses I've tried the only ones I like are Optoma's. I am sure there are others but I've tried like 8+ pairs and they are mostly bad for gaming.
Pirateguybrush said:

Are these likely to be awful?
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Sintron-2-Pairs-3D-Ready-DLP-LINK-96hz-144hz-Active-Glasses-for-Projectors-/171181890903?pt=AU_3D_Glasses&hash=item27db3c5d57


Totally missed this post. Most dlp link glasses are trash for gaming. Though decent for movies. If its just sold on ebay its almost certainly. If its a no-name brand I'd totally disregard it.
Of all the dlp-link glasses I've tried the only ones I like are Optoma's. I am sure there are others but I've tried like 8+ pairs and they are mostly bad for gaming.

Co-founder of helixmod.blog.com

If you like one of my helixmod patches and want to donate. Can send to me through paypal - eqzitara@yahoo.com

#9
Posted 04/09/2014 11:00 PM   
[i]Do you have any suggestions for other models that would provide a similar experience for 720p?[/i] If you plan to use it for anything else, 2D, Blu-rays, etc, I wouldn't recommend anything other than the W1070. [i] Once I do an EDID override, is it likely to solve all 3dtvplay-related problems, or are some likely to linger?[/i] It should solve all problems. [i]I was thinking of plugging the receiver in via optical - would that avoid complicating the EDID override?[/i] Yes, it would avoid the EDID complication, but you'd be hurting the sound in the process. I think some sound cards support Dolby Digital encoding for surround sound from games, but generally you would just get two channel sound through optical. I could give you my EDID override for H5360BD through Pioneer VSX-821 receiver, and that would probably work as long as you configure sound in Windows to match what you know works with your receiver. Also keep in mind that most games work just fine without an override, and some others can be fixed by other means. The EDID override is just a last resort for a handful of stubborn games. [i] Will the reduced brightness in 3d be a significant problem when projected onto a wall, as opposed to a screen?[/i] I white wall is as good as a 1.0 gain screen for brightness. Whether that's bright enough for you will depend on how large the image is. You can always choose to get a high gain screen later if you want to boost brightness. Personally I use a 90" 2.5 gain screen with the lamp in Smart Eco for 3D, and it's nice and bright with the glasses on. About glasses, if reviews say they remove all the red (DLP-link flash) from blacks, then you know the glasses are good and doing their job. If reviews say blacks are a little reddish, avoid them, even if the review says they're otherwise fine (they're not).
Do you have any suggestions for other models that would provide a similar experience for 720p?

If you plan to use it for anything else, 2D, Blu-rays, etc, I wouldn't recommend anything other than the W1070.

Once I do an EDID override, is it likely to solve all 3dtvplay-related problems, or are some likely to linger?


It should solve all problems.

I was thinking of plugging the receiver in via optical - would that avoid complicating the EDID override?

Yes, it would avoid the EDID complication, but you'd be hurting the sound in the process. I think some sound cards support Dolby Digital encoding for surround sound from games, but generally you would just get two channel sound through optical. I could give you my EDID override for H5360BD through Pioneer VSX-821 receiver, and that would probably work as long as you configure sound in Windows to match what you know works with your receiver. Also keep in mind that most games work just fine without an override, and some others can be fixed by other means. The EDID override is just a last resort for a handful of stubborn games.

Will the reduced brightness in 3d be a significant problem when projected onto a wall, as opposed to a screen?


I white wall is as good as a 1.0 gain screen for brightness. Whether that's bright enough for you will depend on how large the image is. You can always choose to get a high gain screen later if you want to boost brightness. Personally I use a 90" 2.5 gain screen with the lamp in Smart Eco for 3D, and it's nice and bright with the glasses on.

About glasses, if reviews say they remove all the red (DLP-link flash) from blacks, then you know the glasses are good and doing their job. If reviews say blacks are a little reddish, avoid them, even if the review says they're otherwise fine (they're not).

#10
Posted 04/10/2014 03:08 AM   
@eqzitara - I have headphones for the rift. The speakers are for video and non-rift games. :) @Volnaiskra - I don't really have the space for a sound card under my SLI 770s (I think, have to check). Is a USB amplifier like that going to make a significant difference? That costs almost as much as the speakers I'm looking at. @Airion - In that case, what's the best way to connect everything? I have two HDMI ports on my graphics cards and one on my motherboard, so should I run one HDMI to the projector, and another to the receiver for audio (disabling the video output on it)? I'm concerned about introducing input lag if I run the video feed through the receiver first. Your software side of things sounds great though, I'll have to look in to that. As for glasses, which Optoma model are you talking about? I should be able to get ZD301 or ZD302. I'm leaning towards ZD302, but it's going to cost an extra $15 each. Or are there others worth looking at?
@eqzitara - I have headphones for the rift. The speakers are for video and non-rift games. :)

@Volnaiskra - I don't really have the space for a sound card under my SLI 770s (I think, have to check). Is a USB amplifier like that going to make a significant difference? That costs almost as much as the speakers I'm looking at.

@Airion - In that case, what's the best way to connect everything? I have two HDMI ports on my graphics cards and one on my motherboard, so should I run one HDMI to the projector, and another to the receiver for audio (disabling the video output on it)? I'm concerned about introducing input lag if I run the video feed through the receiver first. Your software side of things sounds great though, I'll have to look in to that.

As for glasses, which Optoma model are you talking about? I should be able to get ZD301 or ZD302. I'm leaning towards ZD302, but it's going to cost an extra $15 each. Or are there others worth looking at?

#11
Posted 04/10/2014 05:14 AM   
A sound card like [url="http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=211&products_id=21183"]this $40 one[/url] will take up an old-style PCIx1 slot, rather than the PCIx16 slots that your 770s use. So you quite likely will be able to fit it. Most motherboards seem to have one or two of these older slots hanging around at the bottom. Would the USB amp that I use be worth it for you? Probably not. Yes, you'd notice the difference, and yes it'd bring out the bass from your ATH700s, which will sound great in shooters. It may also reduce the chance of getting electronic interference/distortion that can sometimes come from using onboard audio or cheap amps. But it won't give you a massive enough difference to justify the price. But if you want to go the USB route, something like this [url="http://headphones.com.au/psingle?productID=608"]$100 Fiio E10[/url] would probably be worth it. Fiio are a good brand of budget headphone amps. Before I used the ADL amp, I used to use a little [url="http://headphones.com.au/psingle?productID=574"]$40 Fiio E6[/url] with my ATH700s. It brought out the bass nicely and was well worth it. My only gripe was having to recharge the battery all the time. Also, it was more of an ipod amp (no USB), and wouldn't have registered as a separate "sound device" (hence making the easy switching between sound outputs that I described above impossible). The Fiio E10 however shouldn't have either of those problems, as it's a USB-powered device that seems intended for use with PCs (doesn't even have a battery). It wouldn't have quite the crispness of a better amp, but it should do just fine with bringing out the bass. As I understand it, bringing out good bass is actually very easy (compared to all the other things audiophiles like, like soundstage, crispness, separation, etc.) - you just need a bit of extra electricity to support it, which is why big headphones like the ATH700s don't manage it well without the help of an amp.
A sound card like this $40 one will take up an old-style PCIx1 slot, rather than the PCIx16 slots that your 770s use. So you quite likely will be able to fit it. Most motherboards seem to have one or two of these older slots hanging around at the bottom.

Would the USB amp that I use be worth it for you? Probably not. Yes, you'd notice the difference, and yes it'd bring out the bass from your ATH700s, which will sound great in shooters. It may also reduce the chance of getting electronic interference/distortion that can sometimes come from using onboard audio or cheap amps. But it won't give you a massive enough difference to justify the price. But if you want to go the USB route, something like this $100 Fiio E10 would probably be worth it.

Fiio are a good brand of budget headphone amps. Before I used the ADL amp, I used to use a little $40 Fiio E6 with my ATH700s. It brought out the bass nicely and was well worth it. My only gripe was having to recharge the battery all the time. Also, it was more of an ipod amp (no USB), and wouldn't have registered as a separate "sound device" (hence making the easy switching between sound outputs that I described above impossible).

The Fiio E10 however shouldn't have either of those problems, as it's a USB-powered device that seems intended for use with PCs (doesn't even have a battery). It wouldn't have quite the crispness of a better amp, but it should do just fine with bringing out the bass. As I understand it, bringing out good bass is actually very easy (compared to all the other things audiophiles like, like soundstage, crispness, separation, etc.) - you just need a bit of extra electricity to support it, which is why big headphones like the ATH700s don't manage it well without the help of an amp.

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#12
Posted 04/10/2014 05:29 AM   
Here's a decent thread with some discussion of glasses. One interesting take away is that not all glasses are the same, even from the same line. Some people had bad luck with 3D Vision 2 glasses for example, whereas for most people they work great. [url]https://forums.geforce.com/default/topic/512965/3d-vision/3d-glasses-reviews-dlp-user-perspective-/3/[/url] For audio, you might do something like the older Logitech Z-5500, 5.1 setup. This has the very nice ability to support two outputs from your motherboard. 6 channel old school plugs, and an optical input that your motherboard audio probably already provies. You can then configure games to use the audio plugs, and the blu-ray to use optical. In this case, the optical supports all 5 channels, including ProLogic and DTS. Weird that the price has gone up, as they are out of manufacturing. I paid $300 for them, and now they are $470 used. Newer model [i]might [/i]be as good, not sure.
Here's a decent thread with some discussion of glasses. One interesting take away is that not all glasses are the same, even from the same line. Some people had bad luck with 3D Vision 2 glasses for example, whereas for most people they work great.

https://forums.geforce.com/default/topic/512965/3d-vision/3d-glasses-reviews-dlp-user-perspective-/3/

For audio, you might do something like the older Logitech Z-5500, 5.1 setup. This has the very nice ability to support two outputs from your motherboard. 6 channel old school plugs, and an optical input that your motherboard audio probably already provies.

You can then configure games to use the audio plugs, and the blu-ray to use optical. In this case, the optical supports all 5 channels, including ProLogic and DTS.

Weird that the price has gone up, as they are out of manufacturing. I paid $300 for them, and now they are $470 used. Newer model might be as good, not sure.

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#13
Posted 04/10/2014 06:14 AM   
[i]I have two HDMI ports on my graphics cards and one on my motherboard, so should I run one HDMI to the projector, and another to the receiver for audio (disabling the video output on it)?[/i] I've tried connecting my projector with HDMI from the video card, and the receiver with HDMI from the motherboard, but no good. Windows doesn't recognize the receiver and the receiver gets nothing. It sounds like it should work though, right? Maybe there's a way to get it to work deeper into Windows settings, but I don't know. [i] I'm concerned about introducing input lag if I run the video feed through the receiver first.[/i] Depends on the receiver I think. Some have options for "direct video" or "game mode." Lower end receivers like mine don't/can't touch video at all, so I would think there is little if any input lag from the receiver. With PCM from games it shouldn't take any time decoding audio either.
I have two HDMI ports on my graphics cards and one on my motherboard, so should I run one HDMI to the projector, and another to the receiver for audio (disabling the video output on it)?

I've tried connecting my projector with HDMI from the video card, and the receiver with HDMI from the motherboard, but no good. Windows doesn't recognize the receiver and the receiver gets nothing. It sounds like it should work though, right? Maybe there's a way to get it to work deeper into Windows settings, but I don't know.

I'm concerned about introducing input lag if I run the video feed through the receiver first.


Depends on the receiver I think. Some have options for "direct video" or "game mode." Lower end receivers like mine don't/can't touch video at all, so I would think there is little if any input lag from the receiver. With PCM from games it shouldn't take any time decoding audio either.

#14
Posted 04/10/2014 06:42 AM   
[quote="Pirateguybrush"] As for glasses, which Optoma model are you talking about? I should be able to get ZD301 or ZD302. I'm leaning towards ZD302, but it's going to cost an extra $15 each. Or are there others worth looking at?[/quote] Ive tried the 301's. They are great but massive. They use "watch" batteries. Real cheap last like 100 hours. 302 I heard good things about but havent tried. Rechargeable though.
Pirateguybrush said:
As for glasses, which Optoma model are you talking about? I should be able to get ZD301 or ZD302. I'm leaning towards ZD302, but it's going to cost an extra $15 each. Or are there others worth looking at?


Ive tried the 301's. They are great but massive. They use "watch" batteries. Real cheap last like 100 hours.
302 I heard good things about but havent tried. Rechargeable though.

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#15
Posted 04/10/2014 07:48 PM   
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