Old projector dying, looking for a new one
  2 / 2    
Enough creating this 2 custom resolutions? Or I need ToastyX & clock unlocker and other manipulations?
Enough creating this 2 custom resolutions? Or I need ToastyX & clock unlocker and other manipulations?

4K3D on passive LG OLED 4K TV 65C6V, GTX 1080 Ti, Win 8.1 64 Pro, i7-7700, 3D-Vision 2 on Benq LW61-LED PJ. HTC Vive. Panasonic Z-10000 3D Camcorder

#16
Posted 12/14/2015 03:06 PM   
No idea, you just have to try it. I was using an Acer H530 EDID override and I think it was driver 309.00
No idea, you just have to try it.

I was using an Acer H530 EDID override and I think it was driver 309.00

#17
Posted 12/14/2015 03:12 PM   
The cables are fine; tried different cable and second port, problem remained only on projector, colors were fine when I connected to TV. Flickering happened for certain vivid reds last week. Although I don't get the flickering anymore, those same reds that flickered are now gone from my color spectrum. no more vivid reds, just plain orange. Here's a picture of the test pattern: [url]https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6Xql6Q_IBP-YzVkakFNVl81UjQ/view?usp=docslist_api[/url] I lost the saturated reds, magentas, blues and greens (all saturated colors basically) and some whites are tinted red and yellow. My color settings are unchanged. I tried resetting to defaults, same problem. The small gradient at the top of the projector menu also doesn't have smooth color transition. Dust could be the culprit, I should look into dust filters in the future. I think the problem started when I saw some colorful smoke like patterns at the edge of the screen (it wasn't the hot air from the air vent causing it). It stayed for about an hour then disappeared. I guess something might have gotten fried inside? I can turn the HT1085ST 3DTV Play compatible if I use EDID override, right?
The cables are fine; tried different cable and second port, problem remained only on projector, colors were fine when I connected to TV.
Flickering happened for certain vivid reds last week. Although I don't get the flickering anymore, those same reds that flickered are now gone from my color spectrum. no more vivid reds, just plain orange. Here's a picture of the test pattern:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6Xql6Q_IBP-YzVkakFNVl81UjQ/view?usp=docslist_api
I lost the saturated reds, magentas, blues and greens (all saturated colors basically) and some whites are tinted red and yellow. My color settings are unchanged. I tried resetting to defaults, same problem.
The small gradient at the top of the projector menu also doesn't have smooth color transition.
Dust could be the culprit, I should look into dust filters in the future.
I think the problem started when I saw some colorful smoke like patterns at the edge of the screen (it wasn't the hot air from the air vent causing it). It stayed for about an hour then disappeared. I guess something might have gotten fried inside?
I can turn the HT1085ST 3DTV Play compatible if I use EDID override, right?

#18
Posted 12/14/2015 11:10 PM   
The HT1085ST is HDMI 1.4 compliant, it will be supported by 3DTV Play out of the box. The HT1085ST supports multiple forms of 3D with amazing 1080p Full HD quality--including HDMI 1.4a, 3D Blu-ray, 3D broadcasting, video games and NVIDIA 3DTV PC connectivity This video might help https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ssmnjX8QU8A
The HT1085ST is HDMI 1.4 compliant, it will be supported by 3DTV Play out of the box.

The HT1085ST supports multiple forms of 3D with amazing 1080p Full HD quality--including HDMI 1.4a, 3D Blu-ray, 3D broadcasting, video games and NVIDIA 3DTV PC connectivity

This video might help

#19
Posted 12/14/2015 11:21 PM   
[quote="enthralled"]The cables are fine; tried different cable and second port, problem remained only on projector, colors were fine when I connected to TV. Flickering happened for certain vivid reds last week. Although I don't get the flickering anymore, those same reds that flickered are now gone from my color spectrum. no more vivid reds, just plain orange. Here's a picture of the test pattern: [url]https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6Xql6Q_IBP-YzVkakFNVl81UjQ/view?usp=docslist_api[/url] I lost the saturated reds, magentas, blues and greens (all saturated colors basically) and some whites are tinted red and yellow. My color settings are unchanged. I tried resetting to defaults, same problem. The small gradient at the top of the projector menu also doesn't have smooth color transition. Dust could be the culprit, I should look into dust filters in the future. I think the problem started when I saw some colorful smoke like patterns at the edge of the screen (it wasn't the hot air from the air vent causing it). It stayed for about an hour then disappeared. I guess something might have gotten fried inside? I can turn the HT1085ST 3DTV Play compatible if I use EDID override, right?[/quote] Based on your test pattern, and D-Man11's video there, that definitely looks like a color wheel problem. Nearly identical images problems. [url]https://youtu.be/ssmnjX8QU8A?t=44[/url] Could easily be dust or film on the color wheel. Pretty easy to fix actually, no replace parts needed, just cleaning.
enthralled said:The cables are fine; tried different cable and second port, problem remained only on projector, colors were fine when I connected to TV.
Flickering happened for certain vivid reds last week. Although I don't get the flickering anymore, those same reds that flickered are now gone from my color spectrum. no more vivid reds, just plain orange. Here's a picture of the test pattern:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6Xql6Q_IBP-YzVkakFNVl81UjQ/view?usp=docslist_api
I lost the saturated reds, magentas, blues and greens (all saturated colors basically) and some whites are tinted red and yellow. My color settings are unchanged. I tried resetting to defaults, same problem.
The small gradient at the top of the projector menu also doesn't have smooth color transition.
Dust could be the culprit, I should look into dust filters in the future.
I think the problem started when I saw some colorful smoke like patterns at the edge of the screen (it wasn't the hot air from the air vent causing it). It stayed for about an hour then disappeared. I guess something might have gotten fried inside?
I can turn the HT1085ST 3DTV Play compatible if I use EDID override, right?

Based on your test pattern, and D-Man11's video there, that definitely looks like a color wheel problem. Nearly identical images problems. https://youtu.be/ssmnjX8QU8A?t=44

Could easily be dust or film on the color wheel. Pretty easy to fix actually, no replace parts needed, just cleaning.

Acer H5360 (1280x720@120Hz) - ASUS VG248QE with GSync mod - 3D Vision 1&2 - Driver 372.54
GTX 970 - i5-4670K@4.2GHz - 12GB RAM - Win7x64+evilKB2670838 - 4 Disk X25 RAID
SAGER NP9870-S - GTX 980 - i7-6700K - Win10 Pro 1607
Latest 3Dmigoto Release
Bo3b's School for ShaderHackers

#20
Posted 12/15/2015 06:41 AM   
I just finished a cleaning session. I cleaned the lamp, and the color wheel from both sides. And the result is... nothing changed; I can see no difference at all between before and after cleaning :/
I just finished a cleaning session. I cleaned the lamp, and the color wheel from both sides. And the result is... nothing changed; I can see no difference at all between before and after cleaning :/

#21
Posted 12/15/2015 04:54 PM   
Dang, that's not good. It makes me worry more about my projector. Did you clean the pickup sensor and the thing for it on the color wheel? Did you completely remove it for cleaning or do it in place? Did you double check for loose and/or burnt connections? Also it always a good idea to look for popped capacitors, but I do not think this is your problem. Example [img]http://electronics-diy.com/schematics/1260/repairing-switching-power-supply-3.jpg[/img]
Dang, that's not good. It makes me worry more about my projector.

Did you clean the pickup sensor and the thing for it on the color wheel?

Did you completely remove it for cleaning or do it in place?

Did you double check for loose and/or burnt connections?

Also it always a good idea to look for popped capacitors, but I do not think this is your problem.

Example Image

#22
Posted 12/15/2015 05:07 PM   
I only removed the black metal part covering the wheel, and I cleaned the wheel in place using cotton buds and cleaning alcohol. I couldn't see much dirt or haze spots by the way. It seemed too messy for me to take everything apart... So I couldn't reach the sensor. I didn't check connections either. Maybe I would take it apart after I get a replacement projector by end of Jan or Feb, I don't know how to live with a smaller screen anymore (in case I mess up while taking it apart).
I only removed the black metal part covering the wheel, and I cleaned the wheel in place using cotton buds and cleaning alcohol. I couldn't see much dirt or haze spots by the way. It seemed too messy for me to take everything apart... So I couldn't reach the sensor. I didn't check connections either. Maybe I would take it apart after I get a replacement projector by end of Jan or Feb, I don't know how to live with a smaller screen anymore (in case I mess up while taking it apart).

#23
Posted 12/15/2015 05:41 PM   
The video I posted in reply #14. On the YouTube page the guy states... "I had a problem with an Acer Projector where I'd cleaned it and it then failed to start up (or if it did the colours would flicker randomly on the screen. I removed all the dust I could find from the colour wheel and the detection circuitry that tells how fast it is rotating and the problem was solved." Here's a video showing a guy cleaning the sensor (if you look around YouTube, you could probably find a better one) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CcL823L9lps
The video I posted in reply #14.

On the YouTube page the guy states...

"I had a problem with an Acer Projector where I'd cleaned it and it then failed to start up (or if it did the colours would flicker randomly on the screen. I removed all the dust I could find from the colour wheel and the detection circuitry that tells how fast it is rotating and the problem was solved."


Here's a video showing a guy cleaning the sensor

(if you look around YouTube, you could probably find a better one)

#24
Posted 12/15/2015 05:51 PM   
I opened it again, tried reaching the color wheel sensor, but there are 2 screws I just can't reach without taking the whole thing apart! I'm afraid to take that risk, it just seems like too much headache... The screws: [url]https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6Xql6Q_IBP-X2N2cE54ZmV1LW8/view?usp=docslist_api[/url] [url]https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6Xql6Q_IBP-M0tzZzZUUnZMcFU/view?usp=docslist_api[/url]
I opened it again, tried reaching the color wheel sensor, but there are 2 screws I just can't reach without taking the whole thing apart! I'm afraid to take that risk, it just seems like too much headache... The screws: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6Xql6Q_IBP-X2N2cE54ZmV1LW8/view?usp=docslist_api
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6Xql6Q_IBP-M0tzZzZUUnZMcFU/view?usp=docslist_api

#25
Posted 12/16/2015 03:23 PM   
kind of weird, from the angle of the photo they look like anti-tamper screws. it does look like you could use some vice grips to take then out, getting them back in might be the tricky part, unless you have infant sized fingers :) http://www.amazon.com/Tools-VISE-GRIP-Locking-Original-1602L3/dp/B0000BYD9A/ref=sr_1_18?ie=UTF8&qid=1450282973&sr=8-18&keywords=vise+grips Or something like these if you can find them in a "mini" version http://www.amazon.com/Tools-VISE-GRIP-GrooveLock-10-inch-2078110/dp/B000A0OW22/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1450283093&sr=8-1&keywords=locking+channel+locks You also might be able to clean it out using a can of compressed air. You should make a YouTube video of the repair for all of our other W1070 owners in the community :P
kind of weird, from the angle of the photo they look like anti-tamper screws.

it does look like you could use some vice grips to take then out, getting them back in might be the tricky part, unless you have infant sized fingers :)


http://www.amazon.com/Tools-VISE-GRIP-Locking-Original-1602L3/dp/B0000BYD9A/ref=sr_1_18?ie=UTF8&qid=1450282973&sr=8-18&keywords=vise+grips


Or something like these if you can find them in a "mini" version

http://www.amazon.com/Tools-VISE-GRIP-GrooveLock-10-inch-2078110/dp/B000A0OW22/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1450283093&sr=8-1&keywords=locking+channel+locks


You also might be able to clean it out using a can of compressed air.

You should make a YouTube video of the repair for all of our other W1070 owners in the community :P

#26
Posted 12/16/2015 04:36 PM   
The sensor is placed in a tight place, I think compressed air will do more harm than good (could move more dust onto the sensor. The screws are smooth round Phillips screws, they're too small to grip (although I doubt I could find a grip which can fit in there)... Anyway, I noticed colors are getting worse. Gonna order a new one by next month. What are my best options for a short throw 1080p? I'm thinking the HT1085ST?
The sensor is placed in a tight place, I think compressed air will do more harm than good (could move more dust onto the sensor. The screws are smooth round Phillips screws, they're too small to grip (although I doubt I could find a grip which can fit in there)... Anyway, I noticed colors are getting worse. Gonna order a new one by next month.
What are my best options for a short throw 1080p? I'm thinking the HT1085ST?

#27
Posted 12/16/2015 04:45 PM   
The only thing I can recommend, is that if you had it ceiling mounted and have a fixed screen size, try to find one with the same throw ratio. Also make sure that you read all of the available reviews that you can find.
The only thing I can recommend, is that if you had it ceiling mounted and have a fixed screen size, try to find one with the same throw ratio. Also make sure that you read all of the available reviews that you can find.

#28
Posted 12/16/2015 04:56 PM   
  2 / 2    
Scroll To Top