Can only play at minimal depth
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So I used the EDID override to use 3D vision on my LG Cinema 3D TV (passive). It's working nicely, even better than the Tridef Solution that came with the TV. But: I can only play at minimal depth. I followed all guidelines how to set up the focal point on the main character etc., using the great Helixmods for some games, still it's always like that (with Tridef, too btw.). When I increase depth beyond say 1% or 2% the background starts to blur - everything beyond 10% looks like one giant piece of crosstalk. At 1% I get an actually ok 3D effect making the character pop in front the background and close objects are in 3D, too. So I gave this some thought, may it be that this simply CANT work? I mean, if I want to see the background in 3D, the focal point necessarily would have to be there, wouldn't it? And that would mean the foreground would be crosstalking. Not sure if I'm right with this, cause a lot of places say that you should start with a mild depth and "increase it once your eyes got used to it" - that's not about my eyes getting used to it, no human eyes on the planet could make 3D out of these shifted lines in the background when I increase depth. Any thoughts or tips? Thanks. EDIT: As an example let's take Battlefield 4. Here I set up the focal point so the interface and text are clearly readable, cause it's very important. I reduce depth. Everything good. But: When I zoom (right mouse button) with my weapon, the game's focus is shifted and all the text is now out of 3D focus. Even worse, the focus is on the foreground plane, so the scope of the weapon is clear, but the point where I'm aiming gets blurred. Anyone can understand what I'm trying to explain here by chance?
So I used the EDID override to use 3D vision on my LG Cinema 3D TV (passive).

It's working nicely, even better than the Tridef Solution that came with the TV.

But:
I can only play at minimal depth. I followed all guidelines how to set up the focal point on the main character etc., using the great Helixmods for some games, still it's always like that (with Tridef, too btw.).

When I increase depth beyond say 1% or 2% the background starts to blur - everything beyond 10% looks like one giant piece of crosstalk. At 1% I get an actually ok 3D effect making the character pop in front the background and close objects are in 3D, too.

So I gave this some thought, may it be that this simply CANT work? I mean, if I want to see the background in 3D, the focal point necessarily would have to be there, wouldn't it? And that would mean the foreground would be crosstalking.

Not sure if I'm right with this, cause a lot of places say that you should start with a mild depth and "increase it once your eyes got used to it" - that's not about my eyes getting used to it, no human eyes on the planet could make 3D out of these shifted lines in the background when I increase depth.

Any thoughts or tips? Thanks.

EDIT:
As an example let's take Battlefield 4. Here I set up the focal point so the interface and text are clearly readable, cause it's very important. I reduce depth. Everything good. But: When I zoom (right mouse button) with my weapon, the game's focus is shifted and all the text is now out of 3D focus. Even worse, the focus is on the foreground plane, so the scope of the weapon is clear, but the point where I'm aiming gets blurred. Anyone can understand what I'm trying to explain here by chance?

#1
Posted 08/26/2016 08:32 AM   
Fist question? Did you switch L/R order? It is needed with LG if you use an interlaced edid. Try puting glasses upsidedown. Another possibility would be screen size difference but still you shouldn't be limited to 1-2% separation. How does the image look without glasses. How far away are L and R image? PS: For BF4 You should disable the convergence adjustment on mouse-click. It will give you stutter and framedrops on every press of a button. You can do it in the ini. ( just comment the section Key2)
Fist question? Did you switch L/R order? It is needed with LG if you use an interlaced edid.
Try puting glasses upsidedown.

Another possibility would be screen size difference but still you shouldn't be limited to 1-2% separation.
How does the image look without glasses. How far away are L and R image?

PS: For BF4 You should disable the convergence adjustment on mouse-click. It will give you stutter and framedrops on every press of a button. You can do it in the ini. ( just comment the section Key2)

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#2
Posted 08/26/2016 08:59 AM   
[quote="joker18"]Fist question? Did you switch L/R order? It is needed with LG if you use an interlaced edid. Try puting glasses upsidedown. [/quote] Yeah I did that, followed the guide exactly and using the 3DVisionEyeSwapper.exe. It's in the correct order now. [quote="joker18"] Another possibility would be screen size difference but still you shouldn't be limited to 1-2% separation. How does the image look without glasses. How far away are L and R image? [/quote] 32" screen. Looking at the screen without glasses gives me the following results: State of [i]ok[/i] 3D at like 2% depth: The image at the focal point (main character in a 3rd person game) is mostly clear, the background images are between 1mm and 5mm apart, increasing with distance. State of [i]not-ok[/i] 3D at like 10% depth: The images at the focal point are about 1cm apart, this doesn't really increase much with distance, maybe 1.2cm in the distance. When I increase depth to 100% the images are up to 10cm apart. [quote="joker18"] PS: For BF4 You should disable the convergence adjustment on mouse-click. It will give you stutter and framedrops on every press of a button. You can do it in the ini. ( just comment the section Key2) [/quote] Ok thanks, I'll give it a try!
joker18 said:Fist question? Did you switch L/R order? It is needed with LG if you use an interlaced edid.
Try puting glasses upsidedown.

Yeah I did that, followed the guide exactly and using the 3DVisionEyeSwapper.exe. It's in the correct order now.

joker18 said:
Another possibility would be screen size difference but still you shouldn't be limited to 1-2% separation.
How does the image look without glasses. How far away are L and R image?

32" screen. Looking at the screen without glasses gives me the following results:
State of ok 3D at like 2% depth: The image at the focal point (main character in a 3rd person game) is mostly clear, the background images are between 1mm and 5mm apart, increasing with distance.

State of not-ok 3D at like 10% depth: The images at the focal point are about 1cm apart, this doesn't really increase much with distance, maybe 1.2cm in the distance. When I increase depth to 100% the images are up to 10cm apart.

joker18 said:
PS: For BF4 You should disable the convergence adjustment on mouse-click. It will give you stutter and framedrops on every press of a button. You can do it in the ini. ( just comment the section Key2)

Ok thanks, I'll give it a try!

#3
Posted 08/26/2016 09:55 AM   
[quote="frMage"]EDIT: As an example let's take Battlefield 4. Here I set up the focal point so the interface and text are clearly readable, cause it's very important. I reduce depth. Everything good. But: When I zoom (right mouse button) with my weapon, the game's focus is shifted and all the text is now out of 3D focus. Even worse, the focus is on the foreground plane, so the scope of the weapon is clear, but the point where I'm aiming gets blurred. Anyone can understand what I'm trying to explain here by chance?[/quote] That sounds like depth of field effect. DOF doesn't work super well in a lot of 3D games. Be worth disabling that to see.
frMage said:EDIT:
As an example let's take Battlefield 4. Here I set up the focal point so the interface and text are clearly readable, cause it's very important. I reduce depth. Everything good. But: When I zoom (right mouse button) with my weapon, the game's focus is shifted and all the text is now out of 3D focus. Even worse, the focus is on the foreground plane, so the scope of the weapon is clear, but the point where I'm aiming gets blurred. Anyone can understand what I'm trying to explain here by chance?

That sounds like depth of field effect. DOF doesn't work super well in a lot of 3D games. Be worth disabling that to see.

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#4
Posted 08/26/2016 10:08 AM   
So what should the real-life distance between the left and right image be? Is that a constant? Would be nice, cause there don't seem to be many constants stereoscopy, all just a huge trial & error (at least it appears to the end-user like that).
So what should the real-life distance between the left and right image be? Is that a constant? Would be nice, cause there don't seem to be many constants stereoscopy, all just a huge trial & error (at least it appears to the end-user like that).

#5
Posted 08/26/2016 11:12 AM   
[quote="frMage"]So what should the real-life distance between the left and right image be? Is that a constant? Would be nice, cause there don't seem to be many constants stereoscopy, all just a huge trial & error (at least it appears to the end-user like that).[/quote] Distance between left and right is your IPD (inter-pupillary-distance). So it's a constant, no matter what screen you use. Things that are at maximum distance, stars, clouds, should be at your IPD. More than that gives you eyestrain and headaches. Less than that gives you less perceived depth. This is why the depth is sort of random depending upon screen. The software tries to know what screen size you have and make the 100% setting IPD. But, for something like a projector, it has no way of knowing exact size. When you do an EDID, it will also throw it off. In general, you'll want to dial it up where it's comfortable. There is no one that is best for everyone.
frMage said:So what should the real-life distance between the left and right image be? Is that a constant? Would be nice, cause there don't seem to be many constants stereoscopy, all just a huge trial & error (at least it appears to the end-user like that).

Distance between left and right is your IPD (inter-pupillary-distance). So it's a constant, no matter what screen you use.

Things that are at maximum distance, stars, clouds, should be at your IPD. More than that gives you eyestrain and headaches. Less than that gives you less perceived depth.


This is why the depth is sort of random depending upon screen. The software tries to know what screen size you have and make the 100% setting IPD. But, for something like a projector, it has no way of knowing exact size. When you do an EDID, it will also throw it off.

In general, you'll want to dial it up where it's comfortable. There is no one that is best for everyone.

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#6
Posted 08/26/2016 11:15 AM   
[quote="bo3b"] Distance between left and right is your IPD (inter-pupillary-distance). So it's a constant, no matter what screen you use. Things that are at maximum distance, stars, clouds, should be at your IPD. More than that gives you eyestrain and headaches. Less than that gives you less perceived depth. This is why the depth is sort of random depending upon screen. The software tries to know what screen size you have and make the 100% setting IPD. But, for something like a projector, it has no way of knowing exact size. When you do an EDID, it will also throw it off. In general, you'll want to dial it up where it's comfortable. There is no one that is best for everyone.[/quote] So but what is that in mm / cm / inches on the screen, what distance between left and right image? What's an average value? I mean it's clear that it depends on the distance of the viewer from the screen, let's assume 1m for that.
bo3b said:
Distance between left and right is your IPD (inter-pupillary-distance). So it's a constant, no matter what screen you use.

Things that are at maximum distance, stars, clouds, should be at your IPD. More than that gives you eyestrain and headaches. Less than that gives you less perceived depth.


This is why the depth is sort of random depending upon screen. The software tries to know what screen size you have and make the 100% setting IPD. But, for something like a projector, it has no way of knowing exact size. When you do an EDID, it will also throw it off.

In general, you'll want to dial it up where it's comfortable. There is no one that is best for everyone.

So but what is that in mm / cm / inches on the screen, what distance between left and right image? What's an average value? I mean it's clear that it depends on the distance of the viewer from the screen, let's assume 1m for that.

#7
Posted 08/26/2016 11:37 AM   
[quote="frMage"][quote="bo3b"]Distance between left and right is your IPD (inter-pupillary-distance). So it's a constant, no matter what screen you use. Things that are at maximum distance, stars, clouds, should be at your IPD. More than that gives you eyestrain and headaches. Less than that gives you less perceived depth. This is why the depth is sort of random depending upon screen. The software tries to know what screen size you have and make the 100% setting IPD. But, for something like a projector, it has no way of knowing exact size. When you do an EDID, it will also throw it off. In general, you'll want to dial it up where it's comfortable. There is no one that is best for everyone.[/quote]So but what is that in mm / cm / inches on the screen, what distance between left and right image? What's an average value? I mean it's clear that it depends on the distance of the viewer from the screen, let's assume 1m for that.[/quote] No, it's a [i]maximum [/i]of your [url=https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Interpupillary_distance]IPD[/url]. Things that are closer to you in the image will have less distance between them. Things that are at full distance like stars will be at max. Things that are at screen depth will have zero difference between them. Things that are in popout state will have negative distance (swapped eyes). It doesn't have any connection to distance from the screen. The only factor that distance to the screen affects is how much of your field of view is taken up. Screen size matters, but not distance. On a projector on the wall, the same max IPD is in use for something like stars and clouds. On a close up monitor, the same IPD will be used. The difference is that it takes up a larger proportion of the screen size. On projector one eye-width might be maybe 5% of a screen width. On a close up monitor it might be 20% of the screen.
frMage said:
bo3b said:Distance between left and right is your IPD (inter-pupillary-distance). So it's a constant, no matter what screen you use.

Things that are at maximum distance, stars, clouds, should be at your IPD. More than that gives you eyestrain and headaches. Less than that gives you less perceived depth.


This is why the depth is sort of random depending upon screen. The software tries to know what screen size you have and make the 100% setting IPD. But, for something like a projector, it has no way of knowing exact size. When you do an EDID, it will also throw it off.

In general, you'll want to dial it up where it's comfortable. There is no one that is best for everyone.
So but what is that in mm / cm / inches on the screen, what distance between left and right image? What's an average value? I mean it's clear that it depends on the distance of the viewer from the screen, let's assume 1m for that.

No, it's a maximum of your IPD. Things that are closer to you in the image will have less distance between them. Things that are at full distance like stars will be at max. Things that are at screen depth will have zero difference between them. Things that are in popout state will have negative distance (swapped eyes).

It doesn't have any connection to distance from the screen. The only factor that distance to the screen affects is how much of your field of view is taken up. Screen size matters, but not distance.

On a projector on the wall, the same max IPD is in use for something like stars and clouds. On a close up monitor, the same IPD will be used. The difference is that it takes up a larger proportion of the screen size. On projector one eye-width might be maybe 5% of a screen width. On a close up monitor it might be 20% of the screen.

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#8
Posted 08/26/2016 01:57 PM   
I don't really get it, honestly. I can understand the IPD thingy, when I glance at max distance my eyes would be "parallel", so things can't be further apart, cause otherwise my eyes would have to squint outwards. But distance from the screen totally "scales" the display, the further I'm away, the smaller the display, relatively. Also the actual game doesn't scale the 3D content relatively to the display, on smaller displays the character would absolutely be smaller than on a larger one. Nevertheless, my personal IDP is around 6cm, that would mean, my eyes should be able to recognize a left-right-image distance of 6cm on the screen as a 3D image. But they definitely don't, I have to go much smaller, around 1cm or less, as I said. Sorry, I don't really understand that concept.
I don't really get it, honestly. I can understand the IPD thingy, when I glance at max distance my eyes would be "parallel", so things can't be further apart, cause otherwise my eyes would have to squint outwards.

But distance from the screen totally "scales" the display, the further I'm away, the smaller the display, relatively. Also the actual game doesn't scale the 3D content relatively to the display, on smaller displays the character would absolutely be smaller than on a larger one.

Nevertheless, my personal IDP is around 6cm, that would mean, my eyes should be able to recognize a left-right-image distance of 6cm on the screen as a 3D image. But they definitely don't, I have to go much smaller, around 1cm or less, as I said.

Sorry, I don't really understand that concept.

#9
Posted 08/26/2016 03:49 PM   
I came across an article that kinda expresses better what I mean: http://www.rogerebert.com/rogers-journal/why-3d-doesnt-work-and-never-will-case-closed
I came across an article that kinda expresses better what I mean:

http://www.rogerebert.com/rogers-journal/why-3d-doesnt-work-and-never-will-case-closed

#10
Posted 08/26/2016 03:54 PM   
[quote="frMage"]I came across an article that kinda expresses better what I mean: http://www.rogerebert.com/rogers-journal/why-3d-doesnt-work-and-never-will-case-closed[/quote] Interesting to read, but that article is 100% wrong. That's old school movie people talking about why they hate 3D, not rational discourse. Separate 3D gaming from 3D movies. They are totally different, and experiences from one do not apply in the other. For one critical difference- in 3D gaming, you can specify the amount of depth and convergence you want. 3D movies have a fixed, very low, depth, because they need to handle large movie screens with children in the audience. In 3D gaming, your observation is right, that as you move the set further away from you, the images get smaller. This is true of 2D as well of course. That's one reason people tend to prefer to have a screen up close, like a monitor, or a very large screen, like a projector. A 3D TV at distance is OK, but will have less immersion and make the characters smaller. However, the 3D effect itself is unchanged from the TV distance itself. That's because you can change the depth and convergence at will. So if you have projector image, depth set nicely and 3D seems good. If you move that exact setting to a monitor up close, it will seem all flat and very low 3D effect. That's because up close, you need to increase the depth to give the same effect. For a 3D TV at distance, you can still get a stunning 3D effect with the proper settings. But let's cut to the chase here- the reason you are skeptical of 3D, and looking for reasons why it doesn't work is because you've never seen it work correctly. You need to work out the details on your current hardware to make it work properly, not look for reasons why the whole thing doesn't work. I'm here to tell you that when it's working it's better than anything in gaming today, including VR (I have 3 HMD). Something is wrong or broken on your setup so that it blurs after small depth. Using EDID's is not a slam dunk, if you use the wrong one you can have problems like this. Why are you using an EDID? For 3D TV Play, you should be able to use your 3D TV straight up. No need for hacks. You use your TVs glasses for the 3D. Make sure the TV is working correctly. Put it in 3D mode, and see what the settings are available. Try using something like 3D screenshots or pictures, 3D Movies tend to be too low depth to help understand. Edit: If your TV supports 3D SBS, look for native 3D Games that support SBS like Trine and Tomb Raider. Using those games doesn't require 3D TV Play and are good test cases.
frMage said:I came across an article that kinda expresses better what I mean:
http://www.rogerebert.com/rogers-journal/why-3d-doesnt-work-and-never-will-case-closed

Interesting to read, but that article is 100% wrong. That's old school movie people talking about why they hate 3D, not rational discourse.

Separate 3D gaming from 3D movies. They are totally different, and experiences from one do not apply in the other. For one critical difference- in 3D gaming, you can specify the amount of depth and convergence you want. 3D movies have a fixed, very low, depth, because they need to handle large movie screens with children in the audience.


In 3D gaming, your observation is right, that as you move the set further away from you, the images get smaller. This is true of 2D as well of course. That's one reason people tend to prefer to have a screen up close, like a monitor, or a very large screen, like a projector. A 3D TV at distance is OK, but will have less immersion and make the characters smaller.

However, the 3D effect itself is unchanged from the TV distance itself. That's because you can change the depth and convergence at will. So if you have projector image, depth set nicely and 3D seems good. If you move that exact setting to a monitor up close, it will seem all flat and very low 3D effect. That's because up close, you need to increase the depth to give the same effect.

For a 3D TV at distance, you can still get a stunning 3D effect with the proper settings.


But let's cut to the chase here- the reason you are skeptical of 3D, and looking for reasons why it doesn't work is because you've never seen it work correctly.

You need to work out the details on your current hardware to make it work properly, not look for reasons why the whole thing doesn't work.

I'm here to tell you that when it's working it's better than anything in gaming today, including VR (I have 3 HMD).


Something is wrong or broken on your setup so that it blurs after small depth. Using EDID's is not a slam dunk, if you use the wrong one you can have problems like this.

Why are you using an EDID? For 3D TV Play, you should be able to use your 3D TV straight up. No need for hacks. You use your TVs glasses for the 3D.

Make sure the TV is working correctly. Put it in 3D mode, and see what the settings are available. Try using something like 3D screenshots or pictures, 3D Movies tend to be too low depth to help understand.


Edit: If your TV supports 3D SBS, look for native 3D Games that support SBS like Trine and Tomb Raider. Using those games doesn't require 3D TV Play and are good test cases.

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#11
Posted 08/28/2016 01:44 AM   
[quote="bo3b"]the reason you are skeptical of 3D, and looking for reasons why it doesn't work is because you've never seen it work correctly.[/quote] Thanks a lot for you in-depth answer, I appreciate! I guess I understand better now what you're saying. The reason I'm using the EDID override is that I'm not able to use 3D vision otherwise. I got an LG Cinema 3D TV - that means it's a passive, polarized screen with polarized glasses to wear for stereoscopy. I assume it's not the best 3D display out there, but I had a smaller polarized 3D monitor before that honestly wasn't any better. I'm neither a fan of those flickering glasses nor of a huge VR helmet costing thousands (and potentially giving me neck pain). My TV came with Tridef, but a very outdated version that is no longer updated and I don't wanna buy the real version, as I found it very uncomfortable anyway (and it's designed for AMD cards I guess). Just adding another launcher to today's setups, consisting usually of 4 different game stores like Steam, UPlay, Origin etc., an optional game launcher, then fiddling with 3D settings in-game, in the Nvidia control panel (optional: Nvidia inspector), optional modding (e.g. to add controller support), make sure all of that works with Nvidia game stream to my shield tablet etc. pp. :D :D So 3D vision way more comfortable on that. There's another reason for 3D vision, yeah there are games that support stereoscopy out-of-the-box, but neither are those my favourite games nor did the in-game 3D work very well with my TV, not sure why (e.g. Crysis 3). My screen supports line-interlaced without having to change the mode, just put on the glasses, there's also SBS and Top/Bottom as well as a fake-3d mode (all of which is translated into line-interlaced output anyway). For movies I found the SBS format working best. [b] I think my best chances would be to somehow fine tune the EDID resp. the setting that "calculates depth" - I mean I could likely setup depth much easier if it was tuning between 0 and 100 instead of 0 and 3, which I have to do now. Any clue where I could modify that?[/b] I got it running for some game very nice, Mass Effect 3 works mostly perfect with the helix mod. Especially cause you're not moving around that much as in a FPS game, and also the story-telling cutscenes are rendered stereoscopically. (EDIT: and the levels are usually rather small structures) Thanks again for your time.
bo3b said:the reason you are skeptical of 3D, and looking for reasons why it doesn't work is because you've never seen it work correctly.


Thanks a lot for you in-depth answer, I appreciate!

I guess I understand better now what you're saying. The reason I'm using the EDID override is that I'm not able to use 3D vision otherwise. I got an LG Cinema 3D TV - that means it's a passive, polarized screen with polarized glasses to wear for stereoscopy. I assume it's not the best 3D display out there, but I had a smaller polarized 3D monitor before that honestly wasn't any better. I'm neither a fan of those flickering glasses nor of a huge VR helmet costing thousands (and potentially giving me neck pain).

My TV came with Tridef, but a very outdated version that is no longer updated and I don't wanna buy the real version, as I found it very uncomfortable anyway (and it's designed for AMD cards I guess).

Just adding another launcher to today's setups, consisting usually of 4 different game stores like Steam, UPlay, Origin etc., an optional game launcher, then fiddling with 3D settings in-game, in the Nvidia control panel (optional: Nvidia inspector), optional modding (e.g. to add controller support), make sure all of that works with Nvidia game stream to my shield tablet etc. pp. :D :D
So 3D vision way more comfortable on that.

There's another reason for 3D vision, yeah there are games that support stereoscopy out-of-the-box, but neither are those my favourite games nor did the in-game 3D work very well with my TV, not sure why (e.g. Crysis 3). My screen supports line-interlaced without having to change the mode, just put on the glasses, there's also SBS and Top/Bottom as well as a fake-3d mode (all of which is translated into line-interlaced output anyway). For movies I found the SBS format working best.

I think my best chances would be to somehow fine tune the EDID resp. the setting that "calculates depth" - I mean I could likely setup depth much easier if it was tuning between 0 and 100 instead of 0 and 3, which I have to do now. Any clue where I could modify that?


I got it running for some game very nice, Mass Effect 3 works mostly perfect with the helix mod. Especially cause you're not moving around that much as in a FPS game, and also the story-telling cutscenes are rendered stereoscopically. (EDIT: and the levels are usually rather small structures)

Thanks again for your time.

#12
Posted 08/28/2016 12:55 PM   
- accidental double post -
- accidental double post -

#13
Posted 08/28/2016 12:59 PM   
Well, I'm not sure about passive displays, I've never used one. Maybe someone with a similar setup can chime in if there is something unique that is necessary. What happens when you try to use 3D TV Play with no EDID override? Can you do the 3D setup wizard? I would expect that to work straight up, but I'm not familiar with the 4K setups. Assuming you need the EDID, I don't think you can tweak the EDID. That also doesn't have anything to do with the actual 3D effect that you, it only has to do with resolutions and timings on the TV. It doesn't specify type of 3D or any depth or other parameter. The important thing is to get it working correctly in a known good scenario. There is a lot of complexity with the 3D stuff, and it's easy to just keep trying stuff without figuring out what is wrong. Crysis3 is an interesting case, because it does have built in 3D- but... it's fake 3D. And the convergence is locked, and the depth is artificially low. So, it's not a great test case. If you use the HelixMod fix for it, that would give good results. Since it doesn't seem to be working correctly, back up to the NVidia stereo test. Control Panel, Test Stereoscopic 3D. That brings up a floating logo and background. This is the one you should concentrate on getting working properly. It's simple and known to work in all scenarios. It supports convergence and depth changes. If you can't get this to work, something is busted. Run this and play with the settings. Use Ctrl-F3 (less) and Ctrl-F4 (more) for depth. For a TV at normal viewing distance, I'd expect you to be able to get at least 50% of full depth. If that still seems to blur background or something, try taking pictures through the lens and post here.
Well, I'm not sure about passive displays, I've never used one. Maybe someone with a similar setup can chime in if there is something unique that is necessary.


What happens when you try to use 3D TV Play with no EDID override? Can you do the 3D setup wizard? I would expect that to work straight up, but I'm not familiar with the 4K setups.


Assuming you need the EDID, I don't think you can tweak the EDID. That also doesn't have anything to do with the actual 3D effect that you, it only has to do with resolutions and timings on the TV. It doesn't specify type of 3D or any depth or other parameter.


The important thing is to get it working correctly in a known good scenario. There is a lot of complexity with the 3D stuff, and it's easy to just keep trying stuff without figuring out what is wrong.

Crysis3 is an interesting case, because it does have built in 3D- but... it's fake 3D. And the convergence is locked, and the depth is artificially low. So, it's not a great test case. If you use the HelixMod fix for it, that would give good results.


Since it doesn't seem to be working correctly, back up to the NVidia stereo test. Control Panel, Test Stereoscopic 3D. That brings up a floating logo and background.

This is the one you should concentrate on getting working properly. It's simple and known to work in all scenarios. It supports convergence and depth changes. If you can't get this to work, something is busted.

Run this and play with the settings. Use Ctrl-F3 (less) and Ctrl-F4 (more) for depth. For a TV at normal viewing distance, I'd expect you to be able to get at least 50% of full depth.

If that still seems to blur background or something, try taking pictures through the lens and post here.

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#14
Posted 08/29/2016 06:48 AM   
[quote="bo3b"]What happens when you try to use 3D TV Play with no EDID override? Can you do the 3D setup wizard? I would expect that to work straight up, but I'm not familiar with the 4K setups. [/quote] Without the EDID I simply don't have the stereoscopic option on the Nvidia control panel, nor could I run the setup wizard. I found a way to tweak the depth in relation to the monitor, you have to enter the Windows registry via regedit, somewhere there are Nvidia 3D settings with a key for the monitor size - strangely mine is set to 54 (the topic where I found this setting is here in the forums and it claims that this size is in inches) - I'd expected it to be smaller than my real screen size of 32". I can change that value and it has an effect on how deep the depth actually is. The downside is that this value is constantly overwritten (reset) by the Nvidia driver every time you start a 3D game. Together with the EyeSwapper this creates an awkward situation, cause changing the value while running the game works, but then EyeSwapper complains that 3D Vision is not enabled (and doesnt swap eyes anymore). TL;DR Tweaking this value doesn't help with the depth on any level cause it complicates things too much and only has little effect on how good you can setup depth in-game. BTW: this is not a 4k display, it's just plain HD.
bo3b said:What happens when you try to use 3D TV Play with no EDID override? Can you do the 3D setup wizard? I would expect that to work straight up, but I'm not familiar with the 4K setups.


Without the EDID I simply don't have the stereoscopic option on the Nvidia control panel, nor could I run the setup wizard.

I found a way to tweak the depth in relation to the monitor, you have to enter the Windows registry via regedit, somewhere there are Nvidia 3D settings with a key for the monitor size - strangely mine is set to 54 (the topic where I found this setting is here in the forums and it claims that this size is in inches) - I'd expected it to be smaller than my real screen size of 32".
I can change that value and it has an effect on how deep the depth actually is.
The downside is that this value is constantly overwritten (reset) by the Nvidia driver every time you start a 3D game. Together with the EyeSwapper this creates an awkward situation, cause changing the value while running the game works, but then EyeSwapper complains that 3D Vision is not enabled (and doesnt swap eyes anymore).
TL;DR Tweaking this value doesn't help with the depth on any level cause it complicates things too much and only has little effect on how good you can setup depth in-game.

BTW: this is not a 4k display, it's just plain HD.

#15
Posted 08/31/2016 01:07 PM   
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