No 3D using NVIDIA Vision 3D 2, ASUS VG278HE, GeForce 560ti, Win 7sp1
  1 / 2    
So I decided to jump into 3d this weekend and picked up an ASUS VG278HE and 3D kit. My problem is that I am unable to get past the set-up - I fail the right eye/left eye test. - I have cleaned and fresh installed and tried the following drivers: -- 332.21, 327.23, 320.18, and 314.07 - I am currently using 327.23 -- Complete video driver wipes, even in safe mode - I have two GF 560tis. They are both plugged in, but they are *not* in SLI mode. -- I have not tried unplugging one or putting them into SLI - I have the ASUS monitor plugged into the DVI using the dual-link cable provided. I have tried 144, 120, and 100 mhz -- I am currently testing only on 120mhz (based on it being supported) with same results - I have 1 monitor only - ASUS VG278HE - Running Windows 7SP1 -- Fully updated and current -- I have not reinstalled Windows (please God, no...) I get no errors installing the many drivers (many times) and when I go into setting up the Stereoscopic 3D, all hardware is recognized. There is a faint green light on the IR emitter initially, and when I get to the right/left eye test, it glows bright green as if it is working. The IR emitter is also responsive to setting the depth at this point (via the slider bar on the bottom) when I spin the wheel. I see a faint red light through the emitter which I assume is the actual IR inside working. I just never am able to differentiate with the right eye/left eye test - like it isn't kicking off the glasses. The glasses are fully charged - the green light comes on. At one point while I was beating my head into the desk after a failed test and googling, I noticed what must have been the 10 minute point on the glasses where they turn off automatically as the left lens flicked. To confirm no 3d, many many drivers ago, I did try the registry hack and confirmed that indeed I was not getting 3d. I've read that the VG278H (I have a different one, the HE mind you) has issues like this and unplugging the power cord for 20 seconds resets it. Still, I tried that, and no joy - still didn't work. I have no idea what kind of problem I have - config, glasses, monitor, IR emitter, or what and no idea what troubleshooting path to go down to start narrowing the problem. All equipment is brand new. I have a feeling there is something silly missing, but no clue what it could be. Any help is greatly appreciated.
So I decided to jump into 3d this weekend and picked up an ASUS VG278HE and 3D kit. My problem is that I am unable to get past the set-up - I fail the right eye/left eye test.

- I have cleaned and fresh installed and tried the following drivers:
-- 332.21, 327.23, 320.18, and 314.07 - I am currently using 327.23
-- Complete video driver wipes, even in safe mode

- I have two GF 560tis. They are both plugged in, but they are *not* in SLI mode.
-- I have not tried unplugging one or putting them into SLI

- I have the ASUS monitor plugged into the DVI using the dual-link cable provided. I have tried 144, 120, and 100 mhz
-- I am currently testing only on 120mhz (based on it being supported) with same results

- I have 1 monitor only - ASUS VG278HE

- Running Windows 7SP1
-- Fully updated and current
-- I have not reinstalled Windows (please God, no...)


I get no errors installing the many drivers (many times) and when I go into setting up the Stereoscopic 3D, all hardware is recognized. There is a faint green light on the IR emitter initially, and when I get to the right/left eye test, it glows bright green as if it is working. The IR emitter is also responsive to setting the depth at this point (via the slider bar on the bottom) when I spin the wheel. I see a faint red light through the emitter which I assume is the actual IR inside working. I just never am able to differentiate with the right eye/left eye test - like it isn't kicking off the glasses.

The glasses are fully charged - the green light comes on. At one point while I was beating my head into the desk after a failed test and googling, I noticed what must have been the 10 minute point on the glasses where they turn off automatically as the left lens flicked.

To confirm no 3d, many many drivers ago, I did try the registry hack and confirmed that indeed I was not getting 3d.

I've read that the VG278H (I have a different one, the HE mind you) has issues like this and unplugging the power cord for 20 seconds resets it. Still, I tried that, and no joy - still didn't work.

I have no idea what kind of problem I have - config, glasses, monitor, IR emitter, or what and no idea what troubleshooting path to go down to start narrowing the problem. All equipment is brand new. I have a feeling there is something silly missing, but no clue what it could be.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

#1
Posted 01/23/2014 06:55 PM   
You mention you have 2 GPUs (non-SLI), have you tried plugging the DVI cable into the other GPU? As far as not being able to pass the L/R eye part of the test, have you tried just lying to it and choosing the opposite of what you see?
You mention you have 2 GPUs (non-SLI), have you tried plugging the DVI cable into the other GPU?

As far as not being able to pass the L/R eye part of the test, have you tried just lying to it and choosing the opposite of what you see?
#2
Posted 01/23/2014 08:13 PM   
Thank you for your quick reply! No, I haven't tried using the other GPU at all. I guess from a process of elimination, I should probably take 1 GPU and try flipping them into different slots - using only 1 card at a time. If I get the same results with both cards in both slots, that would rule out the cards - yeah? In regards to lying to it, I actually see both shapes on the L/R eye test. I know what the right answer is, but the images are overlayed - like I would expect if the glasses aren't shuttering. :(
Thank you for your quick reply!

No, I haven't tried using the other GPU at all. I guess from a process of elimination, I should probably take 1 GPU and try flipping them into different slots - using only 1 card at a time. If I get the same results with both cards in both slots, that would rule out the cards - yeah?


In regards to lying to it, I actually see both shapes on the L/R eye test. I know what the right answer is, but the images are overlayed - like I would expect if the glasses aren't shuttering. :(

#3
Posted 01/23/2014 09:02 PM   
Yeah, definitely not shuttering, you should only see one in each eye ... sorry, skimmed over that bit "I just never am able to differentiate with the right eye/left eye test - like it isn't kicking off the glasses." ... I'm not sure but from what you're describing it seems like everything but the glasses are working or if they are shuttering, they're out of sync with the monitor. There's nothing blocking the line of sight between the glasses and the emitter? You could try moving the glasses closer to the emitter when it's enabled, I'm using DLP-Link glasses in my setup so I'm not exactly sure if anything 'lights' up on them when their actually receiving the IR signal to sync but you should at least notice them darken when they start shuttering.
Yeah, definitely not shuttering, you should only see one in each eye ... sorry, skimmed over that bit "I just never am able to differentiate with the right eye/left eye test - like it isn't kicking off the glasses." ... I'm not sure but from what you're describing it seems like everything but the glasses are working or if they are shuttering, they're out of sync with the monitor.

There's nothing blocking the line of sight between the glasses and the emitter? You could try moving the glasses closer to the emitter when it's enabled, I'm using DLP-Link glasses in my setup so I'm not exactly sure if anything 'lights' up on them when their actually receiving the IR signal to sync but you should at least notice them darken when they start shuttering.
#4
Posted 01/23/2014 09:44 PM   
Having a visual cue would be nice, right? Unfortunately, there doesn't seem to be any light on them or another visible way to see if the glasses are working or getting the signal - at least that I can see or know of. When you turn them on, a green light goes on for 30 seconds and then supposedly the glasses turn off in about 10 minutes. I've tried using them at some varying distances, but I have it arranged about 2 feet in front of me naturally, about 6" lower than my monitor. It's actually another really good idea to mess with, I DO have the IR tucked an inch or so under an under hang. Considering the upward angle of the IR emitter in order to hit my glasses, it's worth checking. I can't imagine that it is having a "line of sight" problem, but at this point it's worth moving around to check and that would definitely fall into the silly problem category. :) I did visibly see a lens flicker one time which I chalked up to them turning off. This happened when they were sitting on the desk while I was searching forums. I'm not sure if there is any way to explicitly or visibly check the glasses, or even to "hard reset" them? Any other ideas? At this point, I am going to: [olist] [.]Play with the line of sight of the IR emitter to the glasses[/.] [.]Go single GPU, trying each card in each slot individually[/.] [/olist] Again - thank you SOOO much for your ideas and your responses. I really appreciate it.
Having a visual cue would be nice, right?

Unfortunately, there doesn't seem to be any light on them or another visible way to see if the glasses are working or getting the signal - at least that I can see or know of. When you turn them on, a green light goes on for 30 seconds and then supposedly the glasses turn off in about 10 minutes.

I've tried using them at some varying distances, but I have it arranged about 2 feet in front of me naturally, about 6" lower than my monitor. It's actually another really good idea to mess with, I DO have the IR tucked an inch or so under an under hang. Considering the upward angle of the IR emitter in order to hit my glasses, it's worth checking. I can't imagine that it is having a "line of sight" problem, but at this point it's worth moving around to check and that would definitely fall into the silly problem category. :)

I did visibly see a lens flicker one time which I chalked up to them turning off. This happened when they were sitting on the desk while I was searching forums.

I'm not sure if there is any way to explicitly or visibly check the glasses, or even to "hard reset" them?

Any other ideas? At this point, I am going to:

  1. Play with the line of sight of the IR emitter to the glasses
  2. Go single GPU, trying each card in each slot individually


Again - thank you SOOO much for your ideas and your responses. I really appreciate it.

#5
Posted 01/23/2014 10:26 PM   
Yeah, from your description I agree with TsaebehT that the glasses don't seem to be shuttering. Since you get green LED, it seems like they are missing the infra-red signal. You do get a slight indication of operation- when the 3D is enabled and they sync up, you get a darkening effect on the glasses as they shutter half time. When you let them sit for 10 minutes and they hit power down, you'll see the left lens blink on and off at a 1 second interval. Do you have two emitters? The Asus has a built in emitter, and if the kit you got also has an emitter, you could have some conflict. If they were both active for example, the glasses get confused and stop working.
Yeah, from your description I agree with TsaebehT that the glasses don't seem to be shuttering.

Since you get green LED, it seems like they are missing the infra-red signal.

You do get a slight indication of operation- when the 3D is enabled and they sync up, you get a darkening effect on the glasses as they shutter half time. When you let them sit for 10 minutes and they hit power down, you'll see the left lens blink on and off at a 1 second interval.


Do you have two emitters? The Asus has a built in emitter, and if the kit you got also has an emitter, you could have some conflict. If they were both active for example, the glasses get confused and stop working.

Acer H5360 (1280x720@120Hz) - ASUS VG248QE with GSync mod - 3D Vision 1&2 - Driver 372.54
GTX 970 - i5-4670K@4.2GHz - 12GB RAM - Win7x64+evilKB2670838 - 4 Disk X25 RAID
SAGER NP9870-S - GTX 980 - i7-6700K - Win10 Pro 1607
Latest 3Dmigoto Release
Bo3b's School for ShaderHackers

#6
Posted 01/23/2014 11:23 PM   
Hmmmm.... I've not noticed any indication like you described when they sync up. Although what you described in regards to the left lens blinking at shut down is EXACTLY what I noticed that one time. The monitor I have, ASUS VG278H[b]E[/b] actually doesn't have an IR emitter, the VG278H does though. That said, it's not supposed to and I haven't noticed one but if there is a mutant HE monitor that got through with one, I'm certain I would be the one to receive it. I'll check over the monitor just the same. Do you think that since the IR Emitter and the Glasses seem to work independently that it suggests a connection problem between the two? In other words LOS or possibly IR interference. I wonder if there is a physical way to test to see if an IR signal is coming out of the IR Emitter? Just continuing to try to narrow down the possibilities. THANK YOU
Hmmmm.... I've not noticed any indication like you described when they sync up. Although what you described in regards to the left lens blinking at shut down is EXACTLY what I noticed that one time.

The monitor I have, ASUS VG278HE actually doesn't have an IR emitter, the VG278H does though. That said, it's not supposed to and I haven't noticed one but if there is a mutant HE monitor that got through with one, I'm certain I would be the one to receive it. I'll check over the monitor just the same.

Do you think that since the IR Emitter and the Glasses seem to work independently that it suggests a connection problem between the two? In other words LOS or possibly IR interference. I wonder if there is a physical way to test to see if an IR signal is coming out of the IR Emitter?

Just continuing to try to narrow down the possibilities.

THANK YOU

#7
Posted 01/23/2014 11:58 PM   
You can see the IR signal with most cameras (including phone cameras). Look through the camera at the emitter when it's on and you should see lights.
You can see the IR signal with most cameras (including phone cameras). Look through the camera at the emitter when it's on and you should see lights.

#8
Posted 01/24/2014 12:12 AM   
Great advice Pirate (and a bit spooky). So, based on this trick, I know the transmitter is transmitting. Still no joy though. [img]http://s11.postimg.org/72towqa0z/IMG_20140123_165827.jpg[/img] Need to keep working through the list...
Great advice Pirate (and a bit spooky). So, based on this trick, I know the transmitter is transmitting. Still no joy though.

Image

Need to keep working through the list...

#9
Posted 01/24/2014 01:08 AM   
No success :( Tried using each one of the cards in each slot individually. Tried using SLI and not using SLI. Based on the pictute above, the IR seems to be on. During the test, the monitor automatically turned on backlighting which it is supposed to do. Defective?
No success :(

Tried using each one of the cards in each slot individually. Tried using SLI and not using SLI. Based on the pictute above, the IR seems to be on. During the test, the monitor automatically turned on backlighting which it is supposed to do.

Defective?

#10
Posted 01/24/2014 02:49 AM   
Seems like the glasses are at least mostly working too, because you wouldn't see that power off sequence after 10 minutes otherwise. Pyramid looks right based on the picture, although I'd expect the red leds on the front with the green button, not on the side. Maybe rotate the pyramid 90 degrees as a test. Definitely no signal is making it to the glasses to get them to shutter. Version 2 glasses, I assume? Infra red receiver is in the center between your eyes. Look with your camera at the monitor to be sure you don't have an emitter there (easy test, not likely.) Look for other infra-red emitters in your room. It is possible to swamp their signal with something else like an IR blaster for a TV or something. Bring the glasses up close to the emitter to make signal stronger.
Seems like the glasses are at least mostly working too, because you wouldn't see that power off sequence after 10 minutes otherwise.

Pyramid looks right based on the picture, although I'd expect the red leds on the front with the green button, not on the side. Maybe rotate the pyramid 90 degrees as a test.


Definitely no signal is making it to the glasses to get them to shutter.

Version 2 glasses, I assume? Infra red receiver is in the center between your eyes.

Look with your camera at the monitor to be sure you don't have an emitter there (easy test, not likely.)

Look for other infra-red emitters in your room. It is possible to swamp their signal with something else like an IR blaster for a TV or something. Bring the glasses up close to the emitter to make signal stronger.

Acer H5360 (1280x720@120Hz) - ASUS VG248QE with GSync mod - 3D Vision 1&2 - Driver 372.54
GTX 970 - i5-4670K@4.2GHz - 12GB RAM - Win7x64+evilKB2670838 - 4 Disk X25 RAID
SAGER NP9870-S - GTX 980 - i7-6700K - Win10 Pro 1607
Latest 3Dmigoto Release
Bo3b's School for ShaderHackers

#11
Posted 01/24/2014 08:33 AM   
Just did a room check with the camera, no other IR that I can find. Version 2 glasses - yes. Taking the IR picture of the emitter was rather enlightening from a line of sight point of view. It lights up like a Christmas tree. I definitely have it head on now. Here is another picture taken from the distance of my goggles naturally. [img]http://s21.postimg.org/p82a0p6c7/IMG_20140124_070447_1.jpg[/img] I just performed another test with the glasses on while typing this holding the emitter right in front (3 inches or so) of the receiver on the glasses and the glasses shut off during the test (left lens blinked), so I can definitely confirm that functionality in the glasses. It's gotta be the IR receiver or electronics in the glasses, I would think.
Just did a room check with the camera, no other IR that I can find.

Version 2 glasses - yes.

Taking the IR picture of the emitter was rather enlightening from a line of sight point of view. It lights up like a Christmas tree. I definitely have it head on now. Here is another picture taken from the distance of my goggles naturally.

Image

I just performed another test with the glasses on while typing this holding the emitter right in front (3 inches or so) of the receiver on the glasses and the glasses shut off during the test (left lens blinked), so I can definitely confirm that functionality in the glasses.

It's gotta be the IR receiver or electronics in the glasses, I would think.

#12
Posted 01/24/2014 03:21 PM   
Try a windows reinstall. It's a last-ditch effort to rule out software issues, after that you can confidently take the hardware in and say it's faulty. I suggest doing an image-based backup (my personal preference is Acronis), so you can restore back if it doesn't solve the issue.
Try a windows reinstall. It's a last-ditch effort to rule out software issues, after that you can confidently take the hardware in and say it's faulty. I suggest doing an image-based backup (my personal preference is Acronis), so you can restore back if it doesn't solve the issue.

#13
Posted 01/24/2014 03:37 PM   
Thanks Pirate, much appreciated and the advice on imaging software as well. Win7 reinstall, good times...
Thanks Pirate, much appreciated and the advice on imaging software as well. Win7 reinstall, good times...

#14
Posted 01/24/2014 04:51 PM   
Anyway you can get your hand on another pair of glasses? Or perhaps another PC with an NVIDIA GPU in it? It really sucks that NVIDIA/Linux doesn't support 3D Vision, it'd be really nice to be able to boot off of a 'Live' CD/USB to test everything out, rule out the OS without having to reinstall. If you have a spare HDD maybe you could just swap them out ...
Anyway you can get your hand on another pair of glasses? Or perhaps another PC with an NVIDIA GPU in it? It really sucks that NVIDIA/Linux doesn't support 3D Vision, it'd be really nice to be able to boot off of a 'Live' CD/USB to test everything out, rule out the OS without having to reinstall. If you have a spare HDD maybe you could just swap them out ...
#15
Posted 01/24/2014 05:05 PM   
  1 / 2    
Scroll To Top