Aloha guys. First time posting. I sincerely appreciate any assistance you can provide. While my problem may be affiliated with something other than the Nvidia Vision kit, I hope this is still considered on topic - as I am using the Nvidia 3D Vision 2 kit. If you guys have experience with this, then I'm sure you're also familiar with projectors and Cyberlink. Thanks again for any feedback.
Ok so this is my setup:
-I have a Nvidia 3D Vision 2 kit, with the Vision 2 glasses.
-I have an OPTOMA HD66 projector that is 3D-Ready.
-I use Cyberlink Power DVD 12 Ultra to view 3D movies.
Nvidia 3D Vision 2 - I have successfully installed the software/drivers. The USB IR Emitter is GREEN, and when I run the 3D Stereoscopic test - the projector converts and the 3D images jump out at me. It seems to be working fine. I don't expect there to be a problem here. THats why I think the problem is with the projector or Cyberlink. This should be a relatively easy fix...I just don't know where to begin.
Optoma HD66 Projector - I cannot access the 3D settings in the MENU. They are greyed out and I can't move the cursor down while they're like this. I understand this is likely because the projector is not displaying at 120 hertz - which is required for 3D conversion? I don't know how to fix this and I think that is why Cyberlink is acting up.
Cyberlink Power DVD - I get the red text:"Warning - Attempt to run Stereoscopic 3D in non-stereo display mode, please change to a acceptable mode. See documentation for acceptable stereoscopic 3d mode." - the video imagery is all flashing like crazy, and then I see the SBS trying to do its thing. I'm not seeing any 3D when I put on the glasses. In the past I had this red text problem but could see the background in 3D. I'm not even getting that this time.
So it seems to me that Nvidia is all setup properly...but there is an issue with the projectors resolution/hertz settings, and Cyberlink PowerDVD error messages. If you guys can help me at all I would really appreciate it!!!
Aloha
Aloha guys. First time posting. I sincerely appreciate any assistance you can provide. While my problem may be affiliated with something other than the Nvidia Vision kit, I hope this is still considered on topic - as I am using the Nvidia 3D Vision 2 kit. If you guys have experience with this, then I'm sure you're also familiar with projectors and Cyberlink. Thanks again for any feedback.
Ok so this is my setup:
-I have a Nvidia 3D Vision 2 kit, with the Vision 2 glasses.
-I have an OPTOMA HD66 projector that is 3D-Ready.
-I use Cyberlink Power DVD 12 Ultra to view 3D movies.
Nvidia 3D Vision 2 - I have successfully installed the software/drivers. The USB IR Emitter is GREEN, and when I run the 3D Stereoscopic test - the projector converts and the 3D images jump out at me. It seems to be working fine. I don't expect there to be a problem here. THats why I think the problem is with the projector or Cyberlink. This should be a relatively easy fix...I just don't know where to begin.
Optoma HD66 Projector - I cannot access the 3D settings in the MENU. They are greyed out and I can't move the cursor down while they're like this. I understand this is likely because the projector is not displaying at 120 hertz - which is required for 3D conversion? I don't know how to fix this and I think that is why Cyberlink is acting up.
Cyberlink Power DVD - I get the red text:"Warning - Attempt to run Stereoscopic 3D in non-stereo display mode, please change to a acceptable mode. See documentation for acceptable stereoscopic 3d mode." - the video imagery is all flashing like crazy, and then I see the SBS trying to do its thing. I'm not seeing any 3D when I put on the glasses. In the past I had this red text problem but could see the background in 3D. I'm not even getting that this time.
So it seems to me that Nvidia is all setup properly...but there is an issue with the projectors resolution/hertz settings, and Cyberlink PowerDVD error messages. If you guys can help me at all I would really appreciate it!!!
In the NVIDIA control panel, go to "Change resolution". Can you pick 120hz?
Someone with a projector may be more helpful, I've only ever used monitors.
OMG you guys are the greatest. I had to do both suggestions in order to make it work. Its WORKING AGAIN!!!! Thank you so much.
Ok, but this brings me to something else....all 4 of my Vision 2 3D glasses are dead. Now they've sat for a year without even being used...so I understand this is to be expected. But, it seems like they're not holding a charge...can this happen? If you don't use them for a long time, can they lose their ability to hold/maintain a charge? When its plugged in it works.
Another thing - it appears that this resolution/hertz setting depletes my color a bit. Is this to be expected also? I feel like I will need to just keep my normal 1280/800 res. with 60 hertz setting on the regular...and then just change the settings when I want to watch 3D?
You guys are the best. Saved me $50 from hiring someone and I posted the same thread on 3 different other forums (to include AVS) and not a single reply! You guys were within minutes! Amazing!
OMG you guys are the greatest. I had to do both suggestions in order to make it work. Its WORKING AGAIN!!!! Thank you so much.
Ok, but this brings me to something else....all 4 of my Vision 2 3D glasses are dead. Now they've sat for a year without even being used...so I understand this is to be expected. But, it seems like they're not holding a charge...can this happen? If you don't use them for a long time, can they lose their ability to hold/maintain a charge? When its plugged in it works.
Another thing - it appears that this resolution/hertz setting depletes my color a bit. Is this to be expected also? I feel like I will need to just keep my normal 1280/800 res. with 60 hertz setting on the regular...and then just change the settings when I want to watch 3D?
You guys are the best. Saved me $50 from hiring someone and I posted the same thread on 3 different other forums (to include AVS) and not a single reply! You guys were within minutes! Amazing!
This link takes you to a discussion about my very problem...
http://3dvision-blog.com/350-3d-vision-glasses-might-have-a-battery-charging-issue/
If anybody knows more about this and has done a "revive" on their Nvidia Vision 2 glasses I would love to know how to do it! One of these people explains that using a 9V battery, alligator clip wires, and safety pins did the job for him. I'm not familiar with this kind of stuff...but I might give it a go.
I bought this about 2 years ago, so my warranty is likely long passed I think.
If anybody knows more about this and has done a "revive" on their Nvidia Vision 2 glasses I would love to know how to do it! One of these people explains that using a 9V battery, alligator clip wires, and safety pins did the job for him. I'm not familiar with this kind of stuff...but I might give it a go.
I bought this about 2 years ago, so my warranty is likely long passed I think.
The color losing saturation definitely happens when you put it in 120Hz. This generation of projector loses some sharpness and color when running at 120Hz, it's normal if a bit annoying. You might want to have a color profile setup for 120Hz where you calibrate the display when it's in 120Hz to improve the image. It can do better color, it's more that the settings don't match between 120 and 60. D-Man11's settings are a good place to start.
For the batteries, you might be able to jump start them. The glasses are designed to not charge the battery if it gets too low, under the assumption that the battery has died or is shorted, so sending power could be trouble. Now unfortunately, if they sit around a long time, all batteries have a small parasitic drain, so they can get below that threshold where the glasses will refuse to charge them.
That's the principle of jump starting the battery, just getting a tiny amount of juice into them, so that the protection circuit won't lock them out of the charging loop.
You can get access to the battery and using the wires and external battery give it some pulses. You want to be very, very brief here. 9V is a lot for 3.6V battery, so just tap the terminals, don't hold it down. Keep testing the LiIon temperature, it will get hot if it's too much too fast. If you have a multimeter, you can also see what it starts at, and whether you can get it up a tiny bit.
Where glasses and gloves on the very outside chance that you blow up the battery. Nothing like electrolyte in the eyes to ruin your day.
This overcharging technique is how you can set batteries on fire, in case you every need to do that. :->
The batteries may in fact be totally dead, LiIon does have a shelf life, and it's not clear how old all these glasses are. I think the V2 glasses are a little to young to suffer from shelf life problems, so it's more probable that the parasitic drain has pulled them below the safe charging circuit threshold.
Worth a try I'd expect. If you give it a try, please let us know whether it worked for you or not.
The color losing saturation definitely happens when you put it in 120Hz. This generation of projector loses some sharpness and color when running at 120Hz, it's normal if a bit annoying. You might want to have a color profile setup for 120Hz where you calibrate the display when it's in 120Hz to improve the image. It can do better color, it's more that the settings don't match between 120 and 60. D-Man11's settings are a good place to start.
For the batteries, you might be able to jump start them. The glasses are designed to not charge the battery if it gets too low, under the assumption that the battery has died or is shorted, so sending power could be trouble. Now unfortunately, if they sit around a long time, all batteries have a small parasitic drain, so they can get below that threshold where the glasses will refuse to charge them.
That's the principle of jump starting the battery, just getting a tiny amount of juice into them, so that the protection circuit won't lock them out of the charging loop.
You can get access to the battery and using the wires and external battery give it some pulses. You want to be very, very brief here. 9V is a lot for 3.6V battery, so just tap the terminals, don't hold it down. Keep testing the LiIon temperature, it will get hot if it's too much too fast. If you have a multimeter, you can also see what it starts at, and whether you can get it up a tiny bit.
Where glasses and gloves on the very outside chance that you blow up the battery. Nothing like electrolyte in the eyes to ruin your day.
This overcharging technique is how you can set batteries on fire, in case you every need to do that. :->
The batteries may in fact be totally dead, LiIon does have a shelf life, and it's not clear how old all these glasses are. I think the V2 glasses are a little to young to suffer from shelf life problems, so it's more probable that the parasitic drain has pulled them below the safe charging circuit threshold.
Worth a try I'd expect. If you give it a try, please let us know whether it worked for you or not.
Acer H5360 (1280x720@120Hz) - ASUS VG248QE with GSync mod - 3D Vision 1&2 - Driver 372.54
GTX 970 - i5-4670K@4.2GHz - 12GB RAM - Win7x64+evilKB2670838 - 4 Disk X25 RAID
SAGER NP9870-S - GTX 980 - i7-6700K - Win10 Pro 1607 Latest 3Dmigoto Release Bo3b's School for ShaderHackers
bo3b,
I'm in the middle of charging all of them right now. I got some promising results...as I was able to get one off of the charger and it would work - however briefly.
I hope that with hours of charging I see them come back to life! If they don't I will go forward with the reviving method, and I appreciate your concerns! I'll be hiring a friend to help if I go through with that.
I'm in the middle of charging all of them right now. I got some promising results...as I was able to get one off of the charger and it would work - however briefly.
I hope that with hours of charging I see them come back to life! If they don't I will go forward with the reviving method, and I appreciate your concerns! I'll be hiring a friend to help if I go through with that.
[quote="filmmaker31"]bo3b,
I'm in the middle of charging all of them right now. I got some promising results...as I was able to get one off of the charger and it would work - however briefly.
I hope that with hours of charging I see them come back to life! If they don't I will go forward with the reviving method, and I appreciate your concerns! I'll be hiring a friend to help if I go through with that.[/quote]
Good deal. Definitely if they are showing signs of charging, let them sit all night. Also use a higher power/higher quality charger like a cell-phone USB charger. Computer USB ports tend to be underpowered.
I'm in the middle of charging all of them right now. I got some promising results...as I was able to get one off of the charger and it would work - however briefly.
I hope that with hours of charging I see them come back to life! If they don't I will go forward with the reviving method, and I appreciate your concerns! I'll be hiring a friend to help if I go through with that.
Good deal. Definitely if they are showing signs of charging, let them sit all night. Also use a higher power/higher quality charger like a cell-phone USB charger. Computer USB ports tend to be underpowered.
Acer H5360 (1280x720@120Hz) - ASUS VG248QE with GSync mod - 3D Vision 1&2 - Driver 372.54
GTX 970 - i5-4670K@4.2GHz - 12GB RAM - Win7x64+evilKB2670838 - 4 Disk X25 RAID
SAGER NP9870-S - GTX 980 - i7-6700K - Win10 Pro 1607 Latest 3Dmigoto Release Bo3b's School for ShaderHackers
I've charged mine before, using an old phone charger for a Razor 3 that I had, I wonder if you might have better luck with something like that?
I've also wondered if you might be able to pulse a charge into them by flicking the power source of and on. There are some car battery chargers that do this to try to revive a battery. So if you had USB wall charger and plugged it into a wall socket that was controlled via a light switch or a power strip, you could toggle it on and off. Chargers send an initial testing pulse and then shut down if the desired result isn't achieved. So if you repeatedly send an initial pulse, you eventually build up a small charge.
No idea if it works with lithium-ion batteries.
Edit: I just reread Bloody's article and he talks about pulsing his glasses.
BTW, it should have a blinking amber light while charging, next to where the cable plugs in. It takes about 3 Hrs to charge.
I've charged mine before, using an old phone charger for a Razor 3 that I had, I wonder if you might have better luck with something like that?
I've also wondered if you might be able to pulse a charge into them by flicking the power source of and on. There are some car battery chargers that do this to try to revive a battery. So if you had USB wall charger and plugged it into a wall socket that was controlled via a light switch or a power strip, you could toggle it on and off. Chargers send an initial testing pulse and then shut down if the desired result isn't achieved. So if you repeatedly send an initial pulse, you eventually build up a small charge.
No idea if it works with lithium-ion batteries.
Edit: I just reread Bloody's article and he talks about pulsing his glasses.
BTW, it should have a blinking amber light while charging, next to where the cable plugs in. It takes about 3 Hrs to charge.
2 of them blink. 2 of them don't. None of them work off the cable now. I appreciate the advice and I'll try to jumpstart it tomorrow as you said D-man
It just seems like every time I figure it out...something else goes wrong.
Now I've discovered that my Vision 2 3d (or perhaps more specifically - the IR EMITTER) is conflicting with the projector. When the IR Emitter is on...I literally have to press the MENU button on the Optoma HD66 projector 50 times before I get to the menu. From there, another 50 times to do anything - to include turning OFF AND ON...
If I unplug the IR Emitter, then my remote controller works perfectly fine with the projector. It opens the menu on command -1 press of the button, and I can use the arrows to navigate around with no problems at all.
So WHY would the IR Emitter interfere with my Optoma Hd66 remote control for the projector?
--------------------------------------
Besides that, I also can't do anything OUTSIDE OF 3D. If I open a videogame - I get the red text. If I watch a non-SBS movie...I get the red text. If I TURN OFF the IR Emitter then my game goes from trying to run in 3D with the screen going crazy to the old RED/BLUE style of 3D - which my glasses don't recognize.
Does this seriously have to be such a pain or am I missing a simple step?
2 of them blink. 2 of them don't. None of them work off the cable now. I appreciate the advice and I'll try to jumpstart it tomorrow as you said D-man
It just seems like every time I figure it out...something else goes wrong.
Now I've discovered that my Vision 2 3d (or perhaps more specifically - the IR EMITTER) is conflicting with the projector. When the IR Emitter is on...I literally have to press the MENU button on the Optoma HD66 projector 50 times before I get to the menu. From there, another 50 times to do anything - to include turning OFF AND ON...
If I unplug the IR Emitter, then my remote controller works perfectly fine with the projector. It opens the menu on command -1 press of the button, and I can use the arrows to navigate around with no problems at all.
So WHY would the IR Emitter interfere with my Optoma Hd66 remote control for the projector?
--------------------------------------
Besides that, I also can't do anything OUTSIDE OF 3D. If I open a videogame - I get the red text. If I watch a non-SBS movie...I get the red text. If I TURN OFF the IR Emitter then my game goes from trying to run in 3D with the screen going crazy to the old RED/BLUE style of 3D - which my glasses don't recognize.
Does this seriously have to be such a pain or am I missing a simple step?
lol, stop trying them on the cable, if the charge light is blinking, let them charge.
It's normal for the IR of the emitter to interfere with the IR of the PJ's remote, all you to do is temporarily cover the emitter while using it. Nvidia also allows you to choose 2 weaker IR settings while using the setup wizard, but typically you want the strongest setting.
The reason you are getting the red text is likely because you are trying to use a 1280x800 resolution.
lol, stop trying them on the cable, if the charge light is blinking, let them charge.
It's normal for the IR of the emitter to interfere with the IR of the PJ's remote, all you to do is temporarily cover the emitter while using it. Nvidia also allows you to choose 2 weaker IR settings while using the setup wizard, but typically you want the strongest setting.
The reason you are getting the red text is likely because you are trying to use a 1280x800 resolution.
Ctrl+T turns of 3D in-game, I go over most of the basics [url=https://forums.geforce.com/default/topic/824725/3d-vision/beginners-guide-to-understanding-and-using-nvidia-3d-vision-3dtv-play-wip-/]here[/url] but it's still a bit of a WIP, there's things I want to add when I get the chance. :)
Ok so this is my setup:
-I have a Nvidia 3D Vision 2 kit, with the Vision 2 glasses.
-I have an OPTOMA HD66 projector that is 3D-Ready.
-I use Cyberlink Power DVD 12 Ultra to view 3D movies.
Nvidia 3D Vision 2 - I have successfully installed the software/drivers. The USB IR Emitter is GREEN, and when I run the 3D Stereoscopic test - the projector converts and the 3D images jump out at me. It seems to be working fine. I don't expect there to be a problem here. THats why I think the problem is with the projector or Cyberlink. This should be a relatively easy fix...I just don't know where to begin.
Optoma HD66 Projector - I cannot access the 3D settings in the MENU. They are greyed out and I can't move the cursor down while they're like this. I understand this is likely because the projector is not displaying at 120 hertz - which is required for 3D conversion? I don't know how to fix this and I think that is why Cyberlink is acting up.
Cyberlink Power DVD - I get the red text:"Warning - Attempt to run Stereoscopic 3D in non-stereo display mode, please change to a acceptable mode. See documentation for acceptable stereoscopic 3d mode." - the video imagery is all flashing like crazy, and then I see the SBS trying to do its thing. I'm not seeing any 3D when I put on the glasses. In the past I had this red text problem but could see the background in 3D. I'm not even getting that this time.
So it seems to me that Nvidia is all setup properly...but there is an issue with the projectors resolution/hertz settings, and Cyberlink PowerDVD error messages. If you guys can help me at all I would really appreciate it!!!
Aloha
Someone with a projector may be more helpful, I've only ever used monitors.
Set your desktop to 1280x720@120Hz and use alt + enter to maximize the window.
Ok, but this brings me to something else....all 4 of my Vision 2 3D glasses are dead. Now they've sat for a year without even being used...so I understand this is to be expected. But, it seems like they're not holding a charge...can this happen? If you don't use them for a long time, can they lose their ability to hold/maintain a charge? When its plugged in it works.
Another thing - it appears that this resolution/hertz setting depletes my color a bit. Is this to be expected also? I feel like I will need to just keep my normal 1280/800 res. with 60 hertz setting on the regular...and then just change the settings when I want to watch 3D?
You guys are the best. Saved me $50 from hiring someone and I posted the same thread on 3 different other forums (to include AVS) and not a single reply! You guys were within minutes! Amazing!
http://3dvision-blog.com/350-3d-vision-glasses-might-have-a-battery-charging-issue/
If anybody knows more about this and has done a "revive" on their Nvidia Vision 2 glasses I would love to know how to do it! One of these people explains that using a 9V battery, alligator clip wires, and safety pins did the job for him. I'm not familiar with this kind of stuff...but I might give it a go.
I bought this about 2 years ago, so my warranty is likely long passed I think.
Check "With the Nvidia settings" option
Advanced.... Dynamic Range: Full (0-255)
For the batteries, you might be able to jump start them. The glasses are designed to not charge the battery if it gets too low, under the assumption that the battery has died or is shorted, so sending power could be trouble. Now unfortunately, if they sit around a long time, all batteries have a small parasitic drain, so they can get below that threshold where the glasses will refuse to charge them.
That's the principle of jump starting the battery, just getting a tiny amount of juice into them, so that the protection circuit won't lock them out of the charging loop.
You can get access to the battery and using the wires and external battery give it some pulses. You want to be very, very brief here. 9V is a lot for 3.6V battery, so just tap the terminals, don't hold it down. Keep testing the LiIon temperature, it will get hot if it's too much too fast. If you have a multimeter, you can also see what it starts at, and whether you can get it up a tiny bit.
Where glasses and gloves on the very outside chance that you blow up the battery. Nothing like electrolyte in the eyes to ruin your day.
This overcharging technique is how you can set batteries on fire, in case you every need to do that. :->
The batteries may in fact be totally dead, LiIon does have a shelf life, and it's not clear how old all these glasses are. I think the V2 glasses are a little to young to suffer from shelf life problems, so it's more probable that the parasitic drain has pulled them below the safe charging circuit threshold.
Worth a try I'd expect. If you give it a try, please let us know whether it worked for you or not.
Acer H5360 (1280x720@120Hz) - ASUS VG248QE with GSync mod - 3D Vision 1&2 - Driver 372.54
GTX 970 - i5-4670K@4.2GHz - 12GB RAM - Win7x64+evilKB2670838 - 4 Disk X25 RAID
SAGER NP9870-S - GTX 980 - i7-6700K - Win10 Pro 1607
Latest 3Dmigoto Release
Bo3b's School for ShaderHackers
I'm in the middle of charging all of them right now. I got some promising results...as I was able to get one off of the charger and it would work - however briefly.
I hope that with hours of charging I see them come back to life! If they don't I will go forward with the reviving method, and I appreciate your concerns! I'll be hiring a friend to help if I go through with that.
Good deal. Definitely if they are showing signs of charging, let them sit all night. Also use a higher power/higher quality charger like a cell-phone USB charger. Computer USB ports tend to be underpowered.
Acer H5360 (1280x720@120Hz) - ASUS VG248QE with GSync mod - 3D Vision 1&2 - Driver 372.54
GTX 970 - i5-4670K@4.2GHz - 12GB RAM - Win7x64+evilKB2670838 - 4 Disk X25 RAID
SAGER NP9870-S - GTX 980 - i7-6700K - Win10 Pro 1607
Latest 3Dmigoto Release
Bo3b's School for ShaderHackers
I've also wondered if you might be able to pulse a charge into them by flicking the power source of and on. There are some car battery chargers that do this to try to revive a battery. So if you had USB wall charger and plugged it into a wall socket that was controlled via a light switch or a power strip, you could toggle it on and off. Chargers send an initial testing pulse and then shut down if the desired result isn't achieved. So if you repeatedly send an initial pulse, you eventually build up a small charge.
No idea if it works with lithium-ion batteries.
Edit: I just reread Bloody's article and he talks about pulsing his glasses.
BTW, it should have a blinking amber light while charging, next to where the cable plugs in. It takes about 3 Hrs to charge.
It just seems like every time I figure it out...something else goes wrong.
Now I've discovered that my Vision 2 3d (or perhaps more specifically - the IR EMITTER) is conflicting with the projector. When the IR Emitter is on...I literally have to press the MENU button on the Optoma HD66 projector 50 times before I get to the menu. From there, another 50 times to do anything - to include turning OFF AND ON...
If I unplug the IR Emitter, then my remote controller works perfectly fine with the projector. It opens the menu on command -1 press of the button, and I can use the arrows to navigate around with no problems at all.
So WHY would the IR Emitter interfere with my Optoma Hd66 remote control for the projector?
--------------------------------------
Besides that, I also can't do anything OUTSIDE OF 3D. If I open a videogame - I get the red text. If I watch a non-SBS movie...I get the red text. If I TURN OFF the IR Emitter then my game goes from trying to run in 3D with the screen going crazy to the old RED/BLUE style of 3D - which my glasses don't recognize.
Does this seriously have to be such a pain or am I missing a simple step?
It's normal for the IR of the emitter to interfere with the IR of the PJ's remote, all you to do is temporarily cover the emitter while using it. Nvidia also allows you to choose 2 weaker IR settings while using the setup wizard, but typically you want the strongest setting.
The reason you are getting the red text is likely because you are trying to use a 1280x800 resolution.
[MonitorSizeOverride][Global/Base Profile Tweaks][Depth=IPD]