Can you recommend me a 3D camera for videos and pictures?
2 / 2
If you don't mind just taking pics of still-life, or just want to jump right in and start playing with something right away. There are 3D Camera Apps for [url=https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/3d-camera-lite/id323212178]iOS[/url] and [url=https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.onemanwithstereo]Android[/url], I've messed with the iOS paid(but got it for free) version quite a bit. You snap the Left view and then the Right, then you can fine tune alignment and view and/or save it in either cross-eyed, wiggle, parallel or anaglyph.
For my DSLR, I made a couple slides that mount on my tripod and allow me to slide the camera left/right... I was pretty psyched about it all until that one day I came to the sad realization that unfortunately stereo photography isn't exactly one size fits all and that once the separation is 'baked' in it can go from jaw-dropping to absolute meh to ripping your eyeballs out all dependent on the viewing size/method.
It's still fun to play with though...
If you don't mind just taking pics of still-life, or just want to jump right in and start playing with something right away. There are 3D Camera Apps for iOS and Android, I've messed with the iOS paid(but got it for free) version quite a bit. You snap the Left view and then the Right, then you can fine tune alignment and view and/or save it in either cross-eyed, wiggle, parallel or anaglyph.
For my DSLR, I made a couple slides that mount on my tripod and allow me to slide the camera left/right... I was pretty psyched about it all until that one day I came to the sad realization that unfortunately stereo photography isn't exactly one size fits all and that once the separation is 'baked' in it can go from jaw-dropping to absolute meh to ripping your eyeballs out all dependent on the viewing size/method.
I've just ordered one of these to do some experiments with a perspective control lens:
http://www.loreo.com/pages/manuals/manual_pccap.html
Obviously not as sophisticated as a full blown tilt-shift lens, but I don't need the tilt function for what I'm doing and this is a hell of a lot cheaper just to experiment with it and see if my theory pans out in practice.
According to the specs, the lens focuses from 1m-infinity at f/22, or 1.5m-infinity at f/11.
It's a 35mm lens, but since I'm mounting it on a 1.6x crop body it will be closer to a 50mm lens, which is about right for portraits. Ideally this would be mounted on a full frame camera, but I'm not quite ready to buy a 6D just yet.
By my calculations, if I want to put a subject that is 1m away from the lens at screen depth on my 17" laptop, I'd need to move the camera [s]17.3cm[/s] 5.5cm between shots assuming an IPD of 6.5cm and given my sensor size and the focal length of the lens. To do the same calibrated for my 80" projector screen I'd need to move the camera [s]3.7cm[/s]1.1cm between shots. Since that's only the minimum focus for this lens at f/22 I'd probably want the subject to be a little further away - if the subject is two meters away I'd double that to put it at screen depth, three meters away would triple it, etc. This is [s]IPD / screen width * convergence[/s] Edit: I forgot to unproject this back into a real world coordinate system. It should be IPD / screen width * convergence * sensor width / focal length / 2
I still need to work out exactly how much I'd need to adjust the lens shift though - I think it should be set to correct the perspective for the distance off center that the camera (or is that lens given that it is no longer flush with the body?) has shifted (maybe... I'm pretty sure the target separation and convergence should be included in this calculation). The perspective controlled photo of the mirror in the manual I linked to above is similar to what I believe I would want to achieve, but from two perspectives on either side. The lens can shift up to 3.5mm off-center - that might be a limiting factor, but I haven't worked out the maths of this part to know if that will be a problem or not. Given that a small shift can correct the perspective of a tall building, I'm guessing that it will be fine.
Can anyone recommend a rail system to mount the camera on? Ideally this would allow for two mounts for a potential twin camera setup in the future, and can sit on top of a tripod. Needs to be fairly long for these experiments - I'm probably be looking at no less than 60cm, no more than a meter (sure could go longer for higher convergence, but let's keep this realistic). Ideally it would use the same Arca-Swiss style quick release mechanism as my tripod so I don't have to get my Allen key out to switch mounts, but it's not a deal breaker if it's something custom.
Edit: I've picked an 80cm rail for the experiment. It doesn't fulfill all my wishlist items, but not even the more expensive ones seemed to either. Edit 2: Because I missed part of the calculation this is way more than I will actually need. But on the flip side, I'll be able to set my convergence for my 17" laptop to 14.5 meters on this rail, or a whopping 68 meters calibrated for my 80" projector. Should make for an interesting experiment anyway :-p
Obviously not as sophisticated as a full blown tilt-shift lens, but I don't need the tilt function for what I'm doing and this is a hell of a lot cheaper just to experiment with it and see if my theory pans out in practice.
According to the specs, the lens focuses from 1m-infinity at f/22, or 1.5m-infinity at f/11.
It's a 35mm lens, but since I'm mounting it on a 1.6x crop body it will be closer to a 50mm lens, which is about right for portraits. Ideally this would be mounted on a full frame camera, but I'm not quite ready to buy a 6D just yet.
By my calculations, if I want to put a subject that is 1m away from the lens at screen depth on my 17" laptop, I'd need to move the camera 17.3cm 5.5cm between shots assuming an IPD of 6.5cm and given my sensor size and the focal length of the lens. To do the same calibrated for my 80" projector screen I'd need to move the camera 3.7cm1.1cm between shots. Since that's only the minimum focus for this lens at f/22 I'd probably want the subject to be a little further away - if the subject is two meters away I'd double that to put it at screen depth, three meters away would triple it, etc. This is IPD / screen width * convergence Edit: I forgot to unproject this back into a real world coordinate system. It should be IPD / screen width * convergence * sensor width / focal length / 2
I still need to work out exactly how much I'd need to adjust the lens shift though - I think it should be set to correct the perspective for the distance off center that the camera (or is that lens given that it is no longer flush with the body?) has shifted (maybe... I'm pretty sure the target separation and convergence should be included in this calculation). The perspective controlled photo of the mirror in the manual I linked to above is similar to what I believe I would want to achieve, but from two perspectives on either side. The lens can shift up to 3.5mm off-center - that might be a limiting factor, but I haven't worked out the maths of this part to know if that will be a problem or not. Given that a small shift can correct the perspective of a tall building, I'm guessing that it will be fine.
Can anyone recommend a rail system to mount the camera on? Ideally this would allow for two mounts for a potential twin camera setup in the future, and can sit on top of a tripod. Needs to be fairly long for these experiments - I'm probably be looking at no less than 60cm, no more than a meter (sure could go longer for higher convergence, but let's keep this realistic). Ideally it would use the same Arca-Swiss style quick release mechanism as my tripod so I don't have to get my Allen key out to switch mounts, but it's not a deal breaker if it's something custom.
Edit: I've picked an 80cm rail for the experiment. It doesn't fulfill all my wishlist items, but not even the more expensive ones seemed to either. Edit 2: Because I missed part of the calculation this is way more than I will actually need. But on the flip side, I'll be able to set my convergence for my 17" laptop to 14.5 meters on this rail, or a whopping 68 meters calibrated for my 80" projector. Should make for an interesting experiment anyway :-p
2x Geforce GTX 980 in SLI provided by NVIDIA, i7 6700K 4GHz CPU, Asus 27" VG278HE 144Hz 3D Monitor, BenQ W1070 3D Projector, 120" Elite Screens YardMaster 2, 32GB Corsair DDR4 3200MHz RAM, Samsung 850 EVO 500G SSD, 4x750GB HDD in RAID5, Gigabyte Z170X-Gaming 7 Motherboard, Corsair Obsidian 750D Airflow Edition Case, Corsair RM850i PSU, HTC Vive, Win 10 64bit
Actually... that perspective controlled photo of the mirror in the manual:
[img]http://www.loreo.com/pict/samples/800/sample_pccap_007_800.jpg[/img]
is already very close to what I want to achieve, though if you put that full screen it's apparent that it's not quite lined up properly... that could be a problem given just how much a small error in the shift amount could throw out one of the perspectives. If it's a small enough error it can be fixed using the perspective correction tool in the GIMP, but software perspective control is not exactly the same as doing it in the lens.
Actually... that perspective controlled photo of the mirror in the manual:
is already very close to what I want to achieve, though if you put that full screen it's apparent that it's not quite lined up properly... that could be a problem given just how much a small error in the shift amount could throw out one of the perspectives. If it's a small enough error it can be fixed using the perspective correction tool in the GIMP, but software perspective control is not exactly the same as doing it in the lens.
2x Geforce GTX 980 in SLI provided by NVIDIA, i7 6700K 4GHz CPU, Asus 27" VG278HE 144Hz 3D Monitor, BenQ W1070 3D Projector, 120" Elite Screens YardMaster 2, 32GB Corsair DDR4 3200MHz RAM, Samsung 850 EVO 500G SSD, 4x750GB HDD in RAID5, Gigabyte Z170X-Gaming 7 Motherboard, Corsair Obsidian 750D Airflow Edition Case, Corsair RM850i PSU, HTC Vive, Win 10 64bit
For my DSLR, I made a couple slides that mount on my tripod and allow me to slide the camera left/right... I was pretty psyched about it all until that one day I came to the sad realization that unfortunately stereo photography isn't exactly one size fits all and that once the separation is 'baked' in it can go from jaw-dropping to absolute meh to ripping your eyeballs out all dependent on the viewing size/method.
It's still fun to play with though...
[MonitorSizeOverride][Global/Base Profile Tweaks][Depth=IPD]
http://www.loreo.com/pages/manuals/manual_pccap.html
Obviously not as sophisticated as a full blown tilt-shift lens, but I don't need the tilt function for what I'm doing and this is a hell of a lot cheaper just to experiment with it and see if my theory pans out in practice.
According to the specs, the lens focuses from 1m-infinity at f/22, or 1.5m-infinity at f/11.
It's a 35mm lens, but since I'm mounting it on a 1.6x crop body it will be closer to a 50mm lens, which is about right for portraits. Ideally this would be mounted on a full frame camera, but I'm not quite ready to buy a 6D just yet.
By my calculations, if I want to put a subject that is 1m away from the lens at screen depth on my 17" laptop, I'd need to move the camera
17.3cm5.5cm between shots assuming an IPD of 6.5cm and given my sensor size and the focal length of the lens. To do the same calibrated for my 80" projector screen I'd need to move the camera3.7cm1.1cm between shots. Since that's only the minimum focus for this lens at f/22 I'd probably want the subject to be a little further away - if the subject is two meters away I'd double that to put it at screen depth, three meters away would triple it, etc. This isIPD / screen width * convergenceEdit: I forgot to unproject this back into a real world coordinate system. It should be IPD / screen width * convergence * sensor width / focal length / 2I still need to work out exactly how much I'd need to adjust the lens shift though - I think it should be set to correct the perspective for the distance off center that the camera (or is that lens given that it is no longer flush with the body?) has shifted (maybe... I'm pretty sure the target separation and convergence should be included in this calculation). The perspective controlled photo of the mirror in the manual I linked to above is similar to what I believe I would want to achieve, but from two perspectives on either side. The lens can shift up to 3.5mm off-center - that might be a limiting factor, but I haven't worked out the maths of this part to know if that will be a problem or not. Given that a small shift can correct the perspective of a tall building, I'm guessing that it will be fine.
Can anyone recommend a rail system to mount the camera on? Ideally this would allow for two mounts for a potential twin camera setup in the future, and can sit on top of a tripod. Needs to be fairly long for these experiments - I'm probably be looking at no less than 60cm, no more than a meter (sure could go longer for higher convergence, but let's keep this realistic). Ideally it would use the same Arca-Swiss style quick release mechanism as my tripod so I don't have to get my Allen key out to switch mounts, but it's not a deal breaker if it's something custom.
Edit: I've picked an 80cm rail for the experiment. It doesn't fulfill all my wishlist items, but not even the more expensive ones seemed to either. Edit 2: Because I missed part of the calculation this is way more than I will actually need. But on the flip side, I'll be able to set my convergence for my 17" laptop to 14.5 meters on this rail, or a whopping 68 meters calibrated for my 80" projector. Should make for an interesting experiment anyway :-p
2x Geforce GTX 980 in SLI provided by NVIDIA, i7 6700K 4GHz CPU, Asus 27" VG278HE 144Hz 3D Monitor, BenQ W1070 3D Projector, 120" Elite Screens YardMaster 2, 32GB Corsair DDR4 3200MHz RAM, Samsung 850 EVO 500G SSD, 4x750GB HDD in RAID5, Gigabyte Z170X-Gaming 7 Motherboard, Corsair Obsidian 750D Airflow Edition Case, Corsair RM850i PSU, HTC Vive, Win 10 64bit
Alienware M17x R4 w/ built in 3D, Intel i7 3740QM, GTX 680m 2GB, 16GB DDR3 1600MHz RAM, Win7 64bit, 1TB SSD, 1TB HDD, 750GB HDD
Pre-release 3D fixes, shadertool.py and other goodies: http://github.com/DarkStarSword/3d-fixes
Support me on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/DarkStarSword or PayPal: https://www.paypal.me/DarkStarSword
is already very close to what I want to achieve, though if you put that full screen it's apparent that it's not quite lined up properly... that could be a problem given just how much a small error in the shift amount could throw out one of the perspectives. If it's a small enough error it can be fixed using the perspective correction tool in the GIMP, but software perspective control is not exactly the same as doing it in the lens.
2x Geforce GTX 980 in SLI provided by NVIDIA, i7 6700K 4GHz CPU, Asus 27" VG278HE 144Hz 3D Monitor, BenQ W1070 3D Projector, 120" Elite Screens YardMaster 2, 32GB Corsair DDR4 3200MHz RAM, Samsung 850 EVO 500G SSD, 4x750GB HDD in RAID5, Gigabyte Z170X-Gaming 7 Motherboard, Corsair Obsidian 750D Airflow Edition Case, Corsair RM850i PSU, HTC Vive, Win 10 64bit
Alienware M17x R4 w/ built in 3D, Intel i7 3740QM, GTX 680m 2GB, 16GB DDR3 1600MHz RAM, Win7 64bit, 1TB SSD, 1TB HDD, 750GB HDD
Pre-release 3D fixes, shadertool.py and other goodies: http://github.com/DarkStarSword/3d-fixes
Support me on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/DarkStarSword or PayPal: https://www.paypal.me/DarkStarSword