When I disabled the USB2 the glasses are getting complete out of sync/flickering. Then I reduced the refreshrate from 120Hz to 100Hz and now its working perfect; even Dragon Age 2 which has a fair amount of ghosting, especially with high convergence settings! Nearly no ghosting, only some on very bright surfaces within dark surrounding. 110Hz also fails... Anyone else got this problem with 120Hz? Is ther any fix for this?
Mainboard: Asus P5Q-Pro | Monitor: Asus VG236h | Graphic Card: GTX 480
[/quote]
SUCCESS, reduced the hz from 120 to 100 (110 didnt work either) NO GHOSTING. I knew it was the glasses! there is ghosting still in peripheral (towareds nose and edge of glasses) that go away when looking directly at ghosting. Andrew can you comment on this and perhaps work towards either a fix or better glasses, as i know its not just my screen at fault.
Cheers!
P.S. glasses seem to get more and more out of sink in this mode until its buggy as hell.
[quote name='MikePowers1980' date='20 April 2011 - 09:18 PM' timestamp='1303330688' post='1228038']
Thanks!
When I disabled the USB2 the glasses are getting complete out of sync/flickering. Then I reduced the refreshrate from 120Hz to 100Hz and now its working perfect; even Dragon Age 2 which has a fair amount of ghosting, especially with high convergence settings! Nearly no ghosting, only some on very bright surfaces within dark surrounding. 110Hz also fails... Anyone else got this problem with 120Hz? Is ther any fix for this?
Mainboard: Asus P5Q-Pro | Monitor: Asus VG236h | Graphic Card: GTX 480
SUCCESS, reduced the hz from 120 to 100 (110 didnt work either) NO GHOSTING. I knew it was the glasses! there is ghosting still in peripheral (towareds nose and edge of glasses) that go away when looking directly at ghosting. Andrew can you comment on this and perhaps work towards either a fix or better glasses, as i know its not just my screen at fault.
Cheers!
P.S. glasses seem to get more and more out of sink in this mode until its buggy as hell.
[quote name='foreverseeking' date='20 April 2011 - 06:25 PM' timestamp='1303338347' post='1228098']
SUCCESS, reduced the hz from 120 to 100 (110 didnt work either) NO GHOSTING. I knew it was the glasses! there is ghosting still in peripheral (towareds nose and edge of glasses) that go away when looking directly at ghosting. Andrew can you comment on this and perhaps work towards either a fix or better glasses, as i know its not just my screen at fault.
Cheers!
P.S. glasses seem to get more and more out of sink in this mode until its buggy as hell.
[/quote]
Are you using 270.51? I had sync issues with those. 270.61 and 266.58 don't get out of sync for me.
[quote name='foreverseeking' date='20 April 2011 - 06:25 PM' timestamp='1303338347' post='1228098']
SUCCESS, reduced the hz from 120 to 100 (110 didnt work either) NO GHOSTING. I knew it was the glasses! there is ghosting still in peripheral (towareds nose and edge of glasses) that go away when looking directly at ghosting. Andrew can you comment on this and perhaps work towards either a fix or better glasses, as i know its not just my screen at fault.
Cheers!
P.S. glasses seem to get more and more out of sink in this mode until its buggy as hell.
Are you using 270.51? I had sync issues with those. 270.61 and 266.58 don't get out of sync for me.
Can someone confirm where and what to change please?
Is it; [i][b]Device Manager[/b][/i], then [i][b]Universal Serial Bus Controllers[/b][/i], then find the [i][b]NVIDIA Stereoscopic 3D USB controller[/b][/i] ???
I have no such [i][b]advanced tab[/b][/i] under the properties of that /ermm.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':ermm:' />
Sure would like to see an improvement in the ghosting of my 2233rz!
[quote name='CamRaiD' date='20 April 2011 - 07:57 PM' timestamp='1303343865' post='1228138']
Hi, I am using Win7 64....
Can someone confirm where and what to change please?
Is it; [i][b]Device Manager[/b][/i], then [i][b]Universal Serial Bus Controllers[/b][/i], then find the [i][b]NVIDIA Stereoscopic 3D USB controller[/b][/i] ???
I have no such [i][b]advanced tab[/b][/i] under the properties of that /ermm.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':ermm:' />
Sure would like to see an improvement in the ghosting of my 2233rz!
[/quote]
No, look through the Enhanced controllers, and disable the one that the 3D vision controller uses.
[quote name='monkeysocks' date='20 April 2011 - 11:58 PM' timestamp='1303340321' post='1228111']
Are you using 270.51? I had sync issues with those. 270.61 and 266.58 don't get out of sync for me.
[/quote]
I think it made mine slightly worse. Hard to tell as mine is also fairly faint.
BUT...
a negative result is still a result - USB settings do seem to affect top of screen ghosting.
Lord, grant me the serenity to accept the things I cannot change, the courage to change the things I can, and the wisdom to know the difference.
-------------------
Vitals: Windows 7 64bit, i5 2500 @ 4.4ghz, SLI GTX670, 8GB, Viewsonic VX2268WM
Same here, the result is worse using 100 hz (110 and 120 hz doesn´t sync).
I´m using Windows 7 64bits + last 270whql driver, and my motherboard is Asus P6X58D. I have test with two different USB ports (usb3 and usb2) with exactly the same result.
Same here, the result is worse using 100 hz (110 and 120 hz doesn´t sync).
I´m using Windows 7 64bits + last 270whql driver, and my motherboard is Asus P6X58D. I have test with two different USB ports (usb3 and usb2) with exactly the same result.
Imazing!! I tried a lot of monitor before, but the solution was very simple, I have a saumsung monitor 2233zr with 270.61 driver and gtx480 I disabled the USB option like the tutorial say and it work perfect for me in 100hz, thanks user I am very happy becouse I finally after one year to fight with 3d vision I can play with the screen at 100% 3D (not really, jet i have a little of ghosting, but is indetectable).
Imazing!! I tried a lot of monitor before, but the solution was very simple, I have a saumsung monitor 2233zr with 270.61 driver and gtx480 I disabled the USB option like the tutorial say and it work perfect for me in 100hz, thanks user I am very happy becouse I finally after one year to fight with 3d vision I can play with the screen at 100% 3D (not really, jet i have a little of ghosting, but is indetectable).
Ok i just tested this and it looks just like my acer 27" using the integrated IR.
since its not connected by usb maybe thats why this monitor reduces sooo much ghosting?
For those who reported success with this hack, can you provide your motherboard make and model? Also, make sure you have installed your motherboard chipset drivers, especially if you have an Intel chipset motherboard as it provides better USB performance.
For those who reported success with this hack, can you provide your motherboard make and model? Also, make sure you have installed your motherboard chipset drivers, especially if you have an Intel chipset motherboard as it provides better USB performance.
We can't fix your bug if we can't reproduce it. Please provide as much details as possible including specs, steps to reproduce, graphics settings used, etc..
For GeForce driver issues, please leave feedback in driver feedback form: Driver Feedback
For GeForce Now PC issues, please fill out feedback form below: GFN PC Feedback
For SHIELD Android TV issues/requests, please leave feedback in the SHIELD feedback form: SHIELD Feedback
Using USB 1.x, USB 2.0 or USB 3.0 should normally not affect the level of ghosting if everything is working properly.
However if there is some problem with the specific USB hub like too much connected devices using a lot of power or bandwidth the 3D Vision glasses sync may be affected and in result lead to more visible ghosting, you should be able to get better results even by just changing the USB connector to a one that uses a separate USB hub.
I just did a quick test with a system where everything works properly and an Acer HN274H with built in IR transmitter, checked the level of ghosting, then I connected an external IR transmitter to a USB 2.0 port, USB port set to USB 1.0 and USB 3.0 port on external controller... not even a slight difference in the level of crosstalk... as was expected.
Using USB 1.x, USB 2.0 or USB 3.0 should normally not affect the level of ghosting if everything is working properly.
However if there is some problem with the specific USB hub like too much connected devices using a lot of power or bandwidth the 3D Vision glasses sync may be affected and in result lead to more visible ghosting, you should be able to get better results even by just changing the USB connector to a one that uses a separate USB hub.
I just did a quick test with a system where everything works properly and an Acer HN274H with built in IR transmitter, checked the level of ghosting, then I connected an external IR transmitter to a USB 2.0 port, USB port set to USB 1.0 and USB 3.0 port on external controller... not even a slight difference in the level of crosstalk... as was expected.
[quote name='Bloody' date='26 April 2011 - 10:09 PM' timestamp='1303855755' post='1230640']
Using USB 1.x, USB 2.0 or USB 3.0 should normally not affect the level of ghosting if everything is working properly.
However if there is some problem with the specific USB hub like too much connected devices using a lot of power or bandwidth the 3D Vision glasses sync may be affected and in result lead to more visible ghosting, you should be able to get better results even by just changing the USB connector to a one that uses a separate USB hub.
I just did a quick test with a system where everything works properly and an Acer HN274H with built in IR transmitter, checked the level of ghosting, then I connected an external IR transmitter to a USB 2.0 port, USB port set to USB 1.0 and USB 3.0 port on external controller... not even a slight difference in the level of crosstalk... as was expected.
[/quote]
I have the emitter connected through USB and tried the OP's fix and for me I got MORE ghosting with 100 and 120 refresh rate. The game tested was Dragon Age Origins which has always had the same level of ghosting at the top of the screen on my viewsonic vx2268wm. When I restored everything back to normal (enhanced usb) I had less ghosting.
I'm pretty sure I was thorough and can re-test but I think Bloody is correct in his assessment.
[quote name='Bloody' date='26 April 2011 - 10:09 PM' timestamp='1303855755' post='1230640']
Using USB 1.x, USB 2.0 or USB 3.0 should normally not affect the level of ghosting if everything is working properly.
However if there is some problem with the specific USB hub like too much connected devices using a lot of power or bandwidth the 3D Vision glasses sync may be affected and in result lead to more visible ghosting, you should be able to get better results even by just changing the USB connector to a one that uses a separate USB hub.
I just did a quick test with a system where everything works properly and an Acer HN274H with built in IR transmitter, checked the level of ghosting, then I connected an external IR transmitter to a USB 2.0 port, USB port set to USB 1.0 and USB 3.0 port on external controller... not even a slight difference in the level of crosstalk... as was expected.
I have the emitter connected through USB and tried the OP's fix and for me I got MORE ghosting with 100 and 120 refresh rate. The game tested was Dragon Age Origins which has always had the same level of ghosting at the top of the screen on my viewsonic vx2268wm. When I restored everything back to normal (enhanced usb) I had less ghosting.
I'm pretty sure I was thorough and can re-test but I think Bloody is correct in his assessment.
As does a different refresh rate (lower rates have each image last longer - and consequently easier to time the glasses against).
Screens refresh top to bottom, so you're seeing the top of the NEXT eye's image start to draw before the glasses swap - hence the ghosting along the top.
To make things even harder, various monitors also have different input lags, so its hard to nail down timing perfectly for all models.
HDTV's with their own emitter won't suffer as many timing issues, since the display drives the glasses and knows exactly when the images are swapping (rather than the PC, which is not aware of the exact amount of USB delays or monitor input lag).
The real issue here is that nvidia doesn't have a phase shift adjustment where users can adjust exact timing for the glasses - to make it 'just right'.
(eg. adjustments such as : command glasses to flip 0.5 milliseconds sooner than default, or later than default)
The interface (last I used it - which I admit has been a few months - since I started running my display 120hz 2D for smooooooothness) was a real hindrance. Too dumbed down to be useful.
As does a different refresh rate (lower rates have each image last longer - and consequently easier to time the glasses against).
Screens refresh top to bottom, so you're seeing the top of the NEXT eye's image start to draw before the glasses swap - hence the ghosting along the top.
To make things even harder, various monitors also have different input lags, so its hard to nail down timing perfectly for all models.
HDTV's with their own emitter won't suffer as many timing issues, since the display drives the glasses and knows exactly when the images are swapping (rather than the PC, which is not aware of the exact amount of USB delays or monitor input lag).
The real issue here is that nvidia doesn't have a phase shift adjustment where users can adjust exact timing for the glasses - to make it 'just right'.
(eg. adjustments such as : command glasses to flip 0.5 milliseconds sooner than default, or later than default)
The interface (last I used it - which I admit has been a few months - since I started running my display 120hz 2D for smooooooothness) was a real hindrance. Too dumbed down to be useful.
[quote name='ManuelG' date='26 April 2011 - 09:52 PM' timestamp='1303851141' post='1230604']
For those who reported success with this hack, can you provide your motherboard make and model? Also, make sure you have installed your motherboard chipset drivers, especially if you have an Intel chipset motherboard as it provides better USB performance.
[/quote]
[quote name='ManuelG' date='26 April 2011 - 09:52 PM' timestamp='1303851141' post='1230604']
For those who reported success with this hack, can you provide your motherboard make and model? Also, make sure you have installed your motherboard chipset drivers, especially if you have an Intel chipset motherboard as it provides better USB performance.
Thanks!
When I disabled the USB2 the glasses are getting complete out of sync/flickering. Then I reduced the refreshrate from 120Hz to 100Hz and now its working perfect; even Dragon Age 2 which has a fair amount of ghosting, especially with high convergence settings! Nearly no ghosting, only some on very bright surfaces within dark surrounding. 110Hz also fails... Anyone else got this problem with 120Hz? Is ther any fix for this?
Mainboard: Asus P5Q-Pro | Monitor: Asus VG236h | Graphic Card: GTX 480
[/quote]
SUCCESS, reduced the hz from 120 to 100 (110 didnt work either) NO GHOSTING. I knew it was the glasses! there is ghosting still in peripheral (towareds nose and edge of glasses) that go away when looking directly at ghosting. Andrew can you comment on this and perhaps work towards either a fix or better glasses, as i know its not just my screen at fault.
Cheers!
P.S. glasses seem to get more and more out of sink in this mode until its buggy as hell.
Thanks!
When I disabled the USB2 the glasses are getting complete out of sync/flickering. Then I reduced the refreshrate from 120Hz to 100Hz and now its working perfect; even Dragon Age 2 which has a fair amount of ghosting, especially with high convergence settings! Nearly no ghosting, only some on very bright surfaces within dark surrounding. 110Hz also fails... Anyone else got this problem with 120Hz? Is ther any fix for this?
Mainboard: Asus P5Q-Pro | Monitor: Asus VG236h | Graphic Card: GTX 480
SUCCESS, reduced the hz from 120 to 100 (110 didnt work either) NO GHOSTING. I knew it was the glasses! there is ghosting still in peripheral (towareds nose and edge of glasses) that go away when looking directly at ghosting. Andrew can you comment on this and perhaps work towards either a fix or better glasses, as i know its not just my screen at fault.
Cheers!
P.S. glasses seem to get more and more out of sink in this mode until its buggy as hell.
OS: Win 8 CPU: I7 4770k 3.5GZ GPU: GTX 780ti
SUCCESS, reduced the hz from 120 to 100 (110 didnt work either) NO GHOSTING. I knew it was the glasses! there is ghosting still in peripheral (towareds nose and edge of glasses) that go away when looking directly at ghosting. Andrew can you comment on this and perhaps work towards either a fix or better glasses, as i know its not just my screen at fault.
Cheers!
P.S. glasses seem to get more and more out of sink in this mode until its buggy as hell.
[/quote]
Are you using 270.51? I had sync issues with those. 270.61 and 266.58 don't get out of sync for me.
SUCCESS, reduced the hz from 120 to 100 (110 didnt work either) NO GHOSTING. I knew it was the glasses! there is ghosting still in peripheral (towareds nose and edge of glasses) that go away when looking directly at ghosting. Andrew can you comment on this and perhaps work towards either a fix or better glasses, as i know its not just my screen at fault.
Cheers!
P.S. glasses seem to get more and more out of sink in this mode until its buggy as hell.
Are you using 270.51? I had sync issues with those. 270.61 and 266.58 don't get out of sync for me.
Can someone confirm where and what to change please?
Is it; [i][b]Device Manager[/b][/i], then [i][b]Universal Serial Bus Controllers[/b][/i], then find the [i][b]NVIDIA Stereoscopic 3D USB controller[/b][/i] ???
I have no such [i][b]advanced tab[/b][/i] under the properties of that
Sure would like to see an improvement in the ghosting of my 2233rz!
Can someone confirm where and what to change please?
Is it; Device Manager, then Universal Serial Bus Controllers, then find the NVIDIA Stereoscopic 3D USB controller ???
I have no such advanced tab under the properties of that
Sure would like to see an improvement in the ghosting of my 2233rz!
Hi, I am using Win7 64....
Can someone confirm where and what to change please?
Is it; [i][b]Device Manager[/b][/i], then [i][b]Universal Serial Bus Controllers[/b][/i], then find the [i][b]NVIDIA Stereoscopic 3D USB controller[/b][/i] ???
I have no such [i][b]advanced tab[/b][/i] under the properties of that
Sure would like to see an improvement in the ghosting of my 2233rz!
[/quote]
No, look through the Enhanced controllers, and disable the one that the 3D vision controller uses.
Hi, I am using Win7 64....
Can someone confirm where and what to change please?
Is it; Device Manager, then Universal Serial Bus Controllers, then find the NVIDIA Stereoscopic 3D USB controller ???
I have no such advanced tab under the properties of that
Sure would like to see an improvement in the ghosting of my 2233rz!
No, look through the Enhanced controllers, and disable the one that the 3D vision controller uses.
Are you using 270.51? I had sync issues with those. 270.61 and 266.58 don't get out of sync for me.
[/quote]
270.61 is what im using.
Are you using 270.51? I had sync issues with those. 270.61 and 266.58 don't get out of sync for me.
270.61 is what im using.
OS: Win 8 CPU: I7 4770k 3.5GZ GPU: GTX 780ti
BUT...
a negative result is still a result - USB settings do seem to affect top of screen ghosting.
BUT...
a negative result is still a result - USB settings do seem to affect top of screen ghosting.
Lord, grant me the serenity to accept the things I cannot change, the courage to change the things I can, and the wisdom to know the difference.
-------------------
Vitals: Windows 7 64bit, i5 2500 @ 4.4ghz, SLI GTX670, 8GB, Viewsonic VX2268WM
Handy Driver Discussion
Helix Mod - community fixes
Bo3b's Shaderhacker School - How to fix 3D in games
3dsolutionsgaming.com - videos, reviews and 3D fixes
I´m using Windows 7 64bits + last 270whql driver, and my motherboard is Asus P6X58D. I have test with two different USB ports (usb3 and usb2) with exactly the same result.
I´m using Windows 7 64bits + last 270whql driver, and my motherboard is Asus P6X58D. I have test with two different USB ports (usb3 and usb2) with exactly the same result.
- Windows 7 64bits (SSD OCZ-Vertez2 128Gb)
- "ASUS P6X58D-E" motherboard
- "MSI GTX 660 TI"
- "Intel Xeon X5670" @4000MHz CPU (20.0[12-25]x200MHz)
- RAM 16 Gb DDR3 1600
- "Dell S2716DG" monitor (2560x1440 @144Hz)
- "Corsair Carbide 600C" case
- Labrador dog (cinnamon edition)
Amazing diference! thanks!
I hope the futures driver do this automatically.
Amazing diference! thanks!
I hope the futures driver do this automatically.
since its not connected by usb maybe thats why this monitor reduces sooo much ghosting?
since its not connected by usb maybe thats why this monitor reduces sooo much ghosting?
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Acer HN274H
30" IPS Pro Monitor WQXGA 2560x1600
Mitsubishi 60737 60" DLP HDTV
Core i7 3820 @4.8ghz
16GB DDR3 1600
ASRock Fatal1ty X79 Professional LGA 2011
SeaSonic X-SERIES X-1050 1050W
Windows 7 Ultimate x64
ASUS GTX titan SLI
Sennheiser pc 360 with Asus Xonar Essence STX
Bose Companion 3 Series II
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
We can't fix your bug if we can't reproduce it. Please provide as much details as possible including specs, steps to reproduce, graphics settings used, etc..
For GeForce driver issues, please leave feedback in driver feedback form: Driver Feedback
For GeForce Now PC issues, please fill out feedback form below:
GFN PC Feedback
For SHIELD Android TV issues/requests, please leave feedback in the SHIELD feedback form: SHIELD Feedback
I am also available on Twitter:
www.twitter.com/manuelguzman
However if there is some problem with the specific USB hub like too much connected devices using a lot of power or bandwidth the 3D Vision glasses sync may be affected and in result lead to more visible ghosting, you should be able to get better results even by just changing the USB connector to a one that uses a separate USB hub.
I just did a quick test with a system where everything works properly and an Acer HN274H with built in IR transmitter, checked the level of ghosting, then I connected an external IR transmitter to a USB 2.0 port, USB port set to USB 1.0 and USB 3.0 port on external controller... not even a slight difference in the level of crosstalk... as was expected.
However if there is some problem with the specific USB hub like too much connected devices using a lot of power or bandwidth the 3D Vision glasses sync may be affected and in result lead to more visible ghosting, you should be able to get better results even by just changing the USB connector to a one that uses a separate USB hub.
I just did a quick test with a system where everything works properly and an Acer HN274H with built in IR transmitter, checked the level of ghosting, then I connected an external IR transmitter to a USB 2.0 port, USB port set to USB 1.0 and USB 3.0 port on external controller... not even a slight difference in the level of crosstalk... as was expected.
My 3D Vision Blog - 3dvision-blog.com
Using USB 1.x, USB 2.0 or USB 3.0 should normally not affect the level of ghosting if everything is working properly.
However if there is some problem with the specific USB hub like too much connected devices using a lot of power or bandwidth the 3D Vision glasses sync may be affected and in result lead to more visible ghosting, you should be able to get better results even by just changing the USB connector to a one that uses a separate USB hub.
I just did a quick test with a system where everything works properly and an Acer HN274H with built in IR transmitter, checked the level of ghosting, then I connected an external IR transmitter to a USB 2.0 port, USB port set to USB 1.0 and USB 3.0 port on external controller... not even a slight difference in the level of crosstalk... as was expected.
[/quote]
I have the emitter connected through USB and tried the OP's fix and for me I got MORE ghosting with 100 and 120 refresh rate. The game tested was Dragon Age Origins which has always had the same level of ghosting at the top of the screen on my viewsonic vx2268wm. When I restored everything back to normal (enhanced usb) I had less ghosting.
I'm pretty sure I was thorough and can re-test but I think Bloody is correct in his assessment.
Using USB 1.x, USB 2.0 or USB 3.0 should normally not affect the level of ghosting if everything is working properly.
However if there is some problem with the specific USB hub like too much connected devices using a lot of power or bandwidth the 3D Vision glasses sync may be affected and in result lead to more visible ghosting, you should be able to get better results even by just changing the USB connector to a one that uses a separate USB hub.
I just did a quick test with a system where everything works properly and an Acer HN274H with built in IR transmitter, checked the level of ghosting, then I connected an external IR transmitter to a USB 2.0 port, USB port set to USB 1.0 and USB 3.0 port on external controller... not even a slight difference in the level of crosstalk... as was expected.
I have the emitter connected through USB and tried the OP's fix and for me I got MORE ghosting with 100 and 120 refresh rate. The game tested was Dragon Age Origins which has always had the same level of ghosting at the top of the screen on my viewsonic vx2268wm. When I restored everything back to normal (enhanced usb) I had less ghosting.
I'm pretty sure I was thorough and can re-test but I think Bloody is correct in his assessment.
As does a different refresh rate (lower rates have each image last longer - and consequently easier to time the glasses against).
Screens refresh top to bottom, so you're seeing the top of the NEXT eye's image start to draw before the glasses swap - hence the ghosting along the top.
To make things even harder, various monitors also have different input lags, so its hard to nail down timing perfectly for all models.
HDTV's with their own emitter won't suffer as many timing issues, since the display drives the glasses and knows exactly when the images are swapping (rather than the PC, which is not aware of the exact amount of USB delays or monitor input lag).
The real issue here is that nvidia doesn't have a phase shift adjustment where users can adjust exact timing for the glasses - to make it 'just right'.
(eg. adjustments such as : command glasses to flip 0.5 milliseconds sooner than default, or later than default)
The interface (last I used it - which I admit has been a few months - since I started running my display 120hz 2D for smooooooothness) was a real hindrance. Too dumbed down to be useful.
-scheherazade
As does a different refresh rate (lower rates have each image last longer - and consequently easier to time the glasses against).
Screens refresh top to bottom, so you're seeing the top of the NEXT eye's image start to draw before the glasses swap - hence the ghosting along the top.
To make things even harder, various monitors also have different input lags, so its hard to nail down timing perfectly for all models.
HDTV's with their own emitter won't suffer as many timing issues, since the display drives the glasses and knows exactly when the images are swapping (rather than the PC, which is not aware of the exact amount of USB delays or monitor input lag).
The real issue here is that nvidia doesn't have a phase shift adjustment where users can adjust exact timing for the glasses - to make it 'just right'.
(eg. adjustments such as : command glasses to flip 0.5 milliseconds sooner than default, or later than default)
The interface (last I used it - which I admit has been a few months - since I started running my display 120hz 2D for smooooooothness) was a real hindrance. Too dumbed down to be useful.
-scheherazade
For those who reported success with this hack, can you provide your motherboard make and model? Also, make sure you have installed your motherboard chipset drivers, especially if you have an Intel chipset motherboard as it provides better USB performance.
[/quote]
Gigabyte GA-MA78GM-S2H
For those who reported success with this hack, can you provide your motherboard make and model? Also, make sure you have installed your motherboard chipset drivers, especially if you have an Intel chipset motherboard as it provides better USB performance.
Gigabyte GA-MA78GM-S2H