new 3D cameras
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There's probable more, but here is what a quick search turned up Google's https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8a8rRGzbqug Kodak's https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5hcjXFwl44Y Two Eye's https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dbnx02LnMYI Lenova's https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2gzzs5rrmUE Lucid Cam https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y4Q3dmOyO5o
There's probable more, but here is what a quick search turned up

Google's







Kodak's







Two Eye's






Lenova's







Lucid Cam


#1
Posted 01/23/2018 12:42 PM   
I would really love to have one of those, anyone any experience here ?
I would really love to have one of those, anyone any experience here ?

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#2
Posted 01/23/2018 08:18 PM   
I think that out of the 4 I listed, only the Lucid cam is currently available. There's footage and reviews on YouTube. Here's a cheap one for phones https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CAHwqJ_1TMM
I think that out of the 4 I listed, only the Lucid cam is currently available. There's footage and reviews on YouTube.

Here's a cheap one for phones

#3
Posted 01/23/2018 08:33 PM   
I just experience with Fujifilm W3 except 4K they are quite similar. A proper macro optionn with like the mocked up W5 with Three optical elements would be great flose up images. Compare that to the manual 3D option in W3.
I just experience with Fujifilm W3 except 4K they are quite similar.

A proper macro optionn with like the mocked up W5 with Three optical elements would be great flose up images.

Compare that to the manual 3D option in W3.

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#4
Posted 01/23/2018 08:35 PM   
If you are considering a 3D camera, don't overlook the option of mounting a Loreo 9005 on a crop [D]SLR body - [url]http://www.loreo.com/pages/products/loreo_3dlenscap9005.html[/url]. I wouldn't buy a DSLR camera to get this lens, but if you already have one it is an option worth considering, and at $150 it is cheap enough to be a no-brainer. Example images: [url=https://forums.geforce.com/cmd/default/download-comment-attachment/74440/][img]https://forums.geforce.com/cmd/default/download-comment-attachment/74440/[/img][/url] [url=https://forums.geforce.com/cmd/default/download-comment-attachment/74439/][img]https://forums.geforce.com/cmd/default/download-comment-attachment/74439/[/img][/url] These were taken with my old Canon 500D. Both images have had minor touch ups in rawtherapee, but neither is cropped so you can see the seam in the middle. The first image is my wife, the second is a professional model. [size="XL"][color="green"]Advantages:[/color][/size] [list] [.] [color="green"][size="XL"]Hot Shoe[/size][/color], because this is standard on [D]SLRs! If you've ever used the flash on the Fujifilm W3 you will be familiar with that god awful harsh shadow it creates in opposite directions in each eye. A hot shoe opens up the possibility to use a real flash gun for bounce flash, off-camera flash, flash diffusers or other modifiers, studio strobes, etc. The first image had the flash bounced off the ceiling - IIRC I had it manually set to full power to compensate for the slow F/8 lens and loss of light due to bouncing it. I simply cannot overstate just [color="green"]how significant this advantage is[/color], and this alone trumps a lot of the disadvantages of this lens (if anyone can point me to a better quality DSLR stereo lens that addresses those, please do).[/.] [.] RAW photos, because this is standard on DSLRs. This is especially important for this lens, since you really need to adjust the image in rawtherapee / Lightroom, etc. to compensate for the dull colours that the lens produces out of the camera.[/.] [.] Fast shooting, because you're on a DSLR and you don't have to wait for slow image processors or auto-focus found in point and shoot cameras (but see also the related disadvantage).[/.] [.] Portrait orientation (if that's what you wanted to shoot)[/.] [.] No way you're ever going to cover one of the lenses with a finger and ruin a shot (how many times have I done that on my Fujifilm W3?).[/.] [/list] [size="XL"][color="orange"]Disadvantages:[/color][/size] [list] [.] [size="XL"][color="orange"]Manual focus only[/color][/size] (and modern DSLR cameras lack the microprism or split screen focussing screens necessary to make manual focussing viable, unless you want to risk your camera and sacrifice the AF confirmation light by exchanging it, keeping in mind you will need to find a focussing screen suitable for focussing on the left/right side of the image, not just the center). You *will* lose photos because of this, especially if you didn't have time to properly set up the shot and zoom in to make sure your manual focus was close enough. This issue is exaccerbated by:[/.] [.] [size="XL"][color="orange"]Very dim image in the view-finder[/color][/size] (and remember - if you do replace the focussing screen to address the first point it may make this worse).[/.] [.] The image in the view-finder is not in 3D, and because of the unusual properties of the lens one image will tend to be darker than the other, varying depending on the exact alignment of your eye to the view-finder making it difficult to see both images simultaneously and [color="orange"]very difficult to compose the image[/color].[/.] [.] Poor quality optics (they are all a little soft even when the focus is good, and marvel at the ugly chromatic abberation visible in the second image), but what can you expect for such a cheap lens?[/.] [.] Images are a tad "dull" out of the camera, but can be easily corrected with rawtherapee / Lightroom, etc.[/.] [.] F/8 maximum apperature - [color="orange"]a slow lens needing lots of light[/color] and/or a high ISO gain to compensate.[/.] [.] [color="orange"]The left and right images overlap[/color]. This is something you need to be aware of while shooting, and if you wish to crop these out* you will lose part of the image.[/.] [.] Portrait orientation (if you wanted landscape)[/.] [/list] * To crop images created with this lens: [olist] [.] First apply all processing you need (except crop) with rawtherapee, since SPCT will save the cropped image as JPEG, losing the RAW image. If you forget this or decide to do further editing later, you can still edit the RAW image and save as JPEG, edit the .spct file to point at the new JPEG, then open the .spct file in SPCT and re-save it by pressing S, which will retain your crop settings from last time. Worst case scenario is not bad, since the SPCT workflow only takes about 10 seconds and is easy to redo.[/.] [.] Load it up in my Stereo Photo Cropping Tool v1.2 or later. It will open it as though it was a 2D image, but you can still adjust the stereo parallax: [url]https://github.com/DarkStarSword/StereoCropper/releases/tag/v1.2[/url][/.] [.] Adjust the stereo parallax with [color="green"]middle button + drag upwards[/color]... Keep going... Keep going... I know it looks like you've gone too far, but just keep going... Keep going... I know you can't focus on the image any more, just trust me... <POP> the image is now 3D![/.] [.] Adjust the left and right crops separately with [color="green"]ctrl + right button + drag upwards[/color] near the left/right side of image to remove the extra copies of the image at the side.[/.] [.] Adjust the stereo crop as per usual (ctrl+left/right buttons near the left/right of the image) until you have removed the seam (or chosen to leave it), and the depth crop is comfortable for the image (less important for cross-eyed / distance viewing methods, more important for 3D screens).[/.] [.] Adjust the vertical alignment to correct for the misalignment between both lenses. Zoom in with Z or mouse wheel, then use the middle button + drag to bring part of the image to screen depth, then compare the image and the mouse cursor to see how misaligned the image is. [color="green"]Hold V while dragging the image up/down until the mouse cursor and image are lined up and comfortable to view together.[/color] Repeat this process in other spots on the image, as the misalignment can vary over the image - you will not be able to get it perfect everywhere, but aim to be close everywhere with priority given to regions of the image that are likely to draw the viewers eye.[/.] [.] Adjust the stereo parallax with middle button + drag to place the image depth where you want it, keeping in mind that if you push it too far back and later display it on a larger screen you may be violating infinity.[/.] [/olist] For example, a cropped version of the the above photo with the seam removed looks like this (the black bars are what allows the depth crop to be set independently on each side - here the right side of the image is cropped at a depth that lines up with the mirror, while the left side is lined up with the depth of the model's hair - this is easier to see by opening the image full-screen in Stereo Photo Viewer): [url=https://forums.geforce.com/cmd/default/download-comment-attachment/74438/][img]https://forums.geforce.com/cmd/default/download-comment-attachment/74438/[/img][/url]
If you are considering a 3D camera, don't overlook the option of mounting a Loreo 9005 on a crop [D]SLR body - http://www.loreo.com/pages/products/loreo_3dlenscap9005.html. I wouldn't buy a DSLR camera to get this lens, but if you already have one it is an option worth considering, and at $150 it is cheap enough to be a no-brainer.

Example images:
Image

Image

These were taken with my old Canon 500D. Both images have had minor touch ups in rawtherapee, but neither is cropped so you can see the seam in the middle. The first image is my wife, the second is a professional model.

Advantages:
  • Hot Shoe, because this is standard on [D]SLRs! If you've ever used the flash on the Fujifilm W3 you will be familiar with that god awful harsh shadow it creates in opposite directions in each eye. A hot shoe opens up the possibility to use a real flash gun for bounce flash, off-camera flash, flash diffusers or other modifiers, studio strobes, etc. The first image had the flash bounced off the ceiling - IIRC I had it manually set to full power to compensate for the slow F/8 lens and loss of light due to bouncing it. I simply cannot overstate just how significant this advantage is, and this alone trumps a lot of the disadvantages of this lens (if anyone can point me to a better quality DSLR stereo lens that addresses those, please do).
  • RAW photos, because this is standard on DSLRs. This is especially important for this lens, since you really need to adjust the image in rawtherapee / Lightroom, etc. to compensate for the dull colours that the lens produces out of the camera.
  • Fast shooting, because you're on a DSLR and you don't have to wait for slow image processors or auto-focus found in point and shoot cameras (but see also the related disadvantage).
  • Portrait orientation (if that's what you wanted to shoot)
  • No way you're ever going to cover one of the lenses with a finger and ruin a shot (how many times have I done that on my Fujifilm W3?).


Disadvantages:
  • Manual focus only (and modern DSLR cameras lack the microprism or split screen focussing screens necessary to make manual focussing viable, unless you want to risk your camera and sacrifice the AF confirmation light by exchanging it, keeping in mind you will need to find a focussing screen suitable for focussing on the left/right side of the image, not just the center). You *will* lose photos because of this, especially if you didn't have time to properly set up the shot and zoom in to make sure your manual focus was close enough. This issue is exaccerbated by:
  • Very dim image in the view-finder (and remember - if you do replace the focussing screen to address the first point it may make this worse).
  • The image in the view-finder is not in 3D, and because of the unusual properties of the lens one image will tend to be darker than the other, varying depending on the exact alignment of your eye to the view-finder making it difficult to see both images simultaneously and very difficult to compose the image.
  • Poor quality optics (they are all a little soft even when the focus is good, and marvel at the ugly chromatic abberation visible in the second image), but what can you expect for such a cheap lens?
  • Images are a tad "dull" out of the camera, but can be easily corrected with rawtherapee / Lightroom, etc.
  • F/8 maximum apperature - a slow lens needing lots of light and/or a high ISO gain to compensate.
  • The left and right images overlap. This is something you need to be aware of while shooting, and if you wish to crop these out* you will lose part of the image.
  • Portrait orientation (if you wanted landscape)


* To crop images created with this lens:
  1. First apply all processing you need (except crop) with rawtherapee, since SPCT will save the cropped image as JPEG, losing the RAW image. If you forget this or decide to do further editing later, you can still edit the RAW image and save as JPEG, edit the .spct file to point at the new JPEG, then open the .spct file in SPCT and re-save it by pressing S, which will retain your crop settings from last time. Worst case scenario is not bad, since the SPCT workflow only takes about 10 seconds and is easy to redo.
  2. Load it up in my Stereo Photo Cropping Tool v1.2 or later. It will open it as though it was a 2D image, but you can still adjust the stereo parallax:
    https://github.com/DarkStarSword/StereoCropper/releases/tag/v1.2
  3. Adjust the stereo parallax with middle button + drag upwards... Keep going... Keep going... I know it looks like you've gone too far, but just keep going... Keep going... I know you can't focus on the image any more, just trust me... <POP> the image is now 3D!
  4. Adjust the left and right crops separately with ctrl + right button + drag upwards near the left/right side of image to remove the extra copies of the image at the side.
  5. Adjust the stereo crop as per usual (ctrl+left/right buttons near the left/right of the image) until you have removed the seam (or chosen to leave it), and the depth crop is comfortable for the image (less important for cross-eyed / distance viewing methods, more important for 3D screens).
  6. Adjust the vertical alignment to correct for the misalignment between both lenses. Zoom in with Z or mouse wheel, then use the middle button + drag to bring part of the image to screen depth, then compare the image and the mouse cursor to see how misaligned the image is. Hold V while dragging the image up/down until the mouse cursor and image are lined up and comfortable to view together. Repeat this process in other spots on the image, as the misalignment can vary over the image - you will not be able to get it perfect everywhere, but aim to be close everywhere with priority given to regions of the image that are likely to draw the viewers eye.
  7. Adjust the stereo parallax with middle button + drag to place the image depth where you want it, keeping in mind that if you push it too far back and later display it on a larger screen you may be violating infinity.

For example, a cropped version of the the above photo with the seam removed looks like this (the black bars are what allows the depth crop to be set independently on each side - here the right side of the image is cropped at a depth that lines up with the mirror, while the left side is lined up with the depth of the model's hair - this is easier to see by opening the image full-screen in Stereo Photo Viewer):

Image

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#5
Posted 01/24/2018 01:55 AM   
[quote="Flugan"]A proper macro optionn with like the mocked up W5 with Three optical elements would be great flose up images.[/quote] Loreo also has stocks a "macro" variant of their lens for DSLRs: http://www.loreo.com/pages/products/loreo_3dmacrocap.html I've got both, but I don't really use the macro* one very often... in fact, I don't think I even have any test shots... Give me a sec, let me fix that... [center][size="M"][color="orange"]*DESPERATELY SEARCHES HOUSE FOR SUITABLE MACRO SUBJECTS*[/color][/size] No.. No... No... Maybe? No... Too large... Not interesting enough in 3D... Oooh, a shell :) [size="XL"][color="orange"]*PHOTOGRAPHY*[/color][/size] [size="L"][color="green"]*RAWTHERAPEE*[/color][/size][/center] [url=https://forums.geforce.com/cmd/default/download-comment-attachment/74442/][img]https://forums.geforce.com/cmd/default/download-comment-attachment/74442/[/img][/url] A few comments - it is much easier to manually judge focus with the subject so close, and the image in the view-finder seemed brighter and I didn't notice it being any darker in either side like it is on the 9005 lens. I'd say this is a decent lens if you want to do stereo photos of small subjects, and at $120 it is cheaper than the above lens. The seam is still present of course, and again you really want to use this with a flash gun (I aimed the flash at the wall to my left and slightly up) or very bright light. That image was taken at the minimum focussing distance of 23cm from the focal plane (as best as I could guess looking through the view-finder) and looks pretty good, though I take some issue to them calling this a "macro" lens, because the same shell in a real 1:1 100mm macro lens with a 30cm minimum focussing distance on the same camera looks like this: [url=https://forums.geforce.com/cmd/default/download-comment-attachment/74441/][img]https://forums.geforce.com/cmd/default/download-comment-attachment/74441/[/img][/url] But good luck constructing a lens that can do stereo on that scale (if the subject is static you might be better off with a macro rail and moving the camera. If the subject is moving forget it), so the Loreo still seems like a decent choice.
Flugan said:A proper macro optionn with like the mocked up W5 with Three optical elements would be great flose up images.

Loreo also has stocks a "macro" variant of their lens for DSLRs:
http://www.loreo.com/pages/products/loreo_3dmacrocap.html

I've got both, but I don't really use the macro* one very often... in fact, I don't think I even have any test shots... Give me a sec, let me fix that...

*DESPERATELY SEARCHES HOUSE FOR SUITABLE MACRO SUBJECTS*
No.. No... No... Maybe? No... Too large... Not interesting enough in 3D... Oooh, a shell :)

*PHOTOGRAPHY*

*RAWTHERAPEE*


Image

A few comments - it is much easier to manually judge focus with the subject so close, and the image in the view-finder seemed brighter and I didn't notice it being any darker in either side like it is on the 9005 lens. I'd say this is a decent lens if you want to do stereo photos of small subjects, and at $120 it is cheaper than the above lens. The seam is still present of course, and again you really want to use this with a flash gun (I aimed the flash at the wall to my left and slightly up) or very bright light.

That image was taken at the minimum focussing distance of 23cm from the focal plane (as best as I could guess looking through the view-finder) and looks pretty good, though I take some issue to them calling this a "macro" lens, because the same shell in a real 1:1 100mm macro lens with a 30cm minimum focussing distance on the same camera looks like this:

Image

But good luck constructing a lens that can do stereo on that scale (if the subject is static you might be better off with a macro rail and moving the camera. If the subject is moving forget it), so the Loreo still seems like a decent choice.
Attachments

img_3897-cropped.jps

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#6
Posted 01/24/2018 04:02 AM   
If only real life were as interesting as games :p. It would be cool to have one of these to take photos and videos (if possible) of my dog, my family, myself, and some places we may go in the future. I only ask for customizable convergence and separation (but separation will be impossible with fixed lenses :p), apart from good resolution and focus.
If only real life were as interesting as games :p.

It would be cool to have one of these to take photos and videos (if possible) of my dog, my family, myself, and some places we may go in the future.

I only ask for customizable convergence and separation (but separation will be impossible with fixed lenses :p), apart from good resolution and focus.

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#7
Posted 01/24/2018 08:31 AM   
[quote="masterotaku"]I only ask for customizable convergence and separation (but separation will be impossible with fixed lenses :p)[/quote] Actually, separation requires a "tilt-shift" lens to exactly reproduce in a camera (specifically just the shift part). Loreo actually sells a cheap shift lens in a cap that I bought to do some experiments with this - I think I posted the results somewhere on this forum... or maybe I just imagined I did. Anyway, IIRC I found shifting the lens off-axis by about 1-2mm in either direction gave me roughly an equivalent separation to 100% depth on my 17" laptop (targeting a larger screen would need less shifting), but I found that the results were not all that much different to using a regular lens and adjusting the stereo parallax - the biggest difference was really the cropping - the shift lens had both images perfect straight out of the camera, whereas the normal lenses had more junk outside of the 3D part of the image I had to crop off and a little less usable 3D image. Given the cost of a good quality tilt-shift lens and how little it actually needs to be shifted, it's hard to justify going to that length. Convergence is adjusted by adjusting the distance between the lenses. I worked out how to calculate the distance between lenses that would correspond to a given 3D Vision convergence value on a given screen size, and used a rail to move the camera to take multiple photos lined up properly, but this is still pretty hard to judge for a given scene when actually taking a photo. The biggest downside of this system is that things move much faster than you realise - the two images for this shot were only a few seconds apart, yet the clouds moved enough to give a false parallax effect (which by pure dumb luck was in the right direction to make this image viewable - if it were the opposite I would have had to have copied the sky from one image onto the other to pin it at infinity) and broke the shadows on the ground (these images were about 70cm apart for maximum convergence on my rail, taken with ordinary lenses, which place infinity at screen depth and adjusted in SPCT to place infinity where it belongs and SPM to correct the rotation about the Z axis caused by gravity acting on the rail): [url=https://forums.geforce.com/cmd/default/download-comment-attachment/74443/][img]https://forums.geforce.com/cmd/default/download-comment-attachment/74443/[/img][/url] I want to set up both my DSLR cameras synchronised to a single shutter release, but they are mismatched - one is a crop, the other is full frame, and I don't have any matching lenses. I can either use mismatched gear that should give a roughly equivalent result, or maybe just pick up a second one of the dirt cheap 50mm prime lenses and crop the image from the full frame camera to match the crop body.
masterotaku said:I only ask for customizable convergence and separation (but separation will be impossible with fixed lenses :p)
Actually, separation requires a "tilt-shift" lens to exactly reproduce in a camera (specifically just the shift part). Loreo actually sells a cheap shift lens in a cap that I bought to do some experiments with this - I think I posted the results somewhere on this forum... or maybe I just imagined I did. Anyway, IIRC I found shifting the lens off-axis by about 1-2mm in either direction gave me roughly an equivalent separation to 100% depth on my 17" laptop (targeting a larger screen would need less shifting), but I found that the results were not all that much different to using a regular lens and adjusting the stereo parallax - the biggest difference was really the cropping - the shift lens had both images perfect straight out of the camera, whereas the normal lenses had more junk outside of the 3D part of the image I had to crop off and a little less usable 3D image. Given the cost of a good quality tilt-shift lens and how little it actually needs to be shifted, it's hard to justify going to that length.

Convergence is adjusted by adjusting the distance between the lenses. I worked out how to calculate the distance between lenses that would correspond to a given 3D Vision convergence value on a given screen size, and used a rail to move the camera to take multiple photos lined up properly, but this is still pretty hard to judge for a given scene when actually taking a photo. The biggest downside of this system is that things move much faster than you realise - the two images for this shot were only a few seconds apart, yet the clouds moved enough to give a false parallax effect (which by pure dumb luck was in the right direction to make this image viewable - if it were the opposite I would have had to have copied the sky from one image onto the other to pin it at infinity) and broke the shadows on the ground (these images were about 70cm apart for maximum convergence on my rail, taken with ordinary lenses, which place infinity at screen depth and adjusted in SPCT to place infinity where it belongs and SPM to correct the rotation about the Z axis caused by gravity acting on the rail):

Image

I want to set up both my DSLR cameras synchronised to a single shutter release, but they are mismatched - one is a crop, the other is full frame, and I don't have any matching lenses. I can either use mismatched gear that should give a roughly equivalent result, or maybe just pick up a second one of the dirt cheap 50mm prime lenses and crop the image from the full frame camera to match the crop body.

2x Geforce GTX 980 in SLI provided by NVIDIA, i7 6700K 4GHz CPU, Asus 27" VG278HE 144Hz 3D Monitor, BenQ W1070 3D Projector, 120" Elite Screens YardMaster 2, 32GB Corsair DDR4 3200MHz RAM, Samsung 850 EVO 500G SSD, 4x750GB HDD in RAID5, Gigabyte Z170X-Gaming 7 Motherboard, Corsair Obsidian 750D Airflow Edition Case, Corsair RM850i PSU, HTC Vive, Win 10 64bit

Alienware M17x R4 w/ built in 3D, Intel i7 3740QM, GTX 680m 2GB, 16GB DDR3 1600MHz RAM, Win7 64bit, 1TB SSD, 1TB HDD, 750GB HDD

Pre-release 3D fixes, shadertool.py and other goodies: http://github.com/DarkStarSword/3d-fixes
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#8
Posted 01/24/2018 08:58 AM   
[quote="DarkStarSword"]if it were the opposite I would have had to have copied the sky from one image onto the other to pin it at infinity [/quote] Real life pictures 3D Vision fix :p. That picture is great (crossing my eyes, not at home). It's the kind I'd like to do, if I went outside more. Can you check the results with your current method when you make them, or do you have to go home and pray that you did it the best way you could?
DarkStarSword said:if it were the opposite I would have had to have copied the sky from one image onto the other to pin it at infinity


Real life pictures 3D Vision fix :p. That picture is great (crossing my eyes, not at home). It's the kind I'd like to do, if I went outside more. Can you check the results with your current method when you make them, or do you have to go home and pray that you did it the best way you could?

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#9
Posted 01/24/2018 09:51 AM   
I haven't practised the method I used for that landscape enough to get good at it - that photo was taken the first day I experimented with it once I had the rail and some messed up shit happened in my personal life the very next day after that and I haven't tried again since. On a single camera you can flick between two images to get an idea, but I didn't catch the problem with the clouds or the shadows at the time. My workflow that day was highly experimental and needs refining - the camera was on a rail, which was on my tripod, but I wasn't certain how far I'd need to move the camera to get a good convergence - I'd done the maths, but I wasn't sure it was right and I couldn't really estimate the distance anyway. I wasn't sure if the rail I was using was going to be too long, or not long enough. So I focussed the lens, switched it to manual focus so it wouldn't change between shots, then moved it to the far left of the rail, took a photo, moved it 10cm to the right, took another, etc. until I got to the other side. I didn't really have any idea of how it had turned out until I was back at the B&B and able to process the photos - I ended up picking the two taken at the extreme edges for that - it was an 80cm Fomito rail, and I'd blocked the ends to make sure the camera couldn't fall off, so those photos were about 70cm apart. I did take several other photos, but I found the ones with trees in the foreground were better - I think I would have needed a much, much longer rail to get a good stereoscopic photo of just the cliffs. But the rail I had chosen turned out to be about right with the trees in the foreground. My plans to refine this include: - Using a second camera as I mentioned and synchronising the shutters (either via a pair of modified remote shutter release cables, or possibly adding a feature to Magic Lantern to do so by some other means - I'd actually like to do that, because the software could also potentially synchronise the focus, f-stop, ISO, white balance, etc. on both cameras (but not the focal length - I'm not aware of any lenses that can drive that from software)... But, I don't think ML already has such a feature and it would mean finding my way around a new code base and risking bricking my cameras, so I'll probably start with the simpler hardware solution first. - Use a shorter rail that is less cumbersome. For that particular landscape shot 80cm was a decent choice, and that's not too bad if it's in the car, but for most shots I'd want things to be a little more portable or I won't take any photos at all. I've picked up a smaller rail to attempt this - I chose one that I could mount two cameras on (search ebay for LP-03 macro - this was also cheaper than buying a second Fomito rail just to get a second slider to go on my existing rail), but haven't tried this yet so cannot report on my results. - Find some way to preview it live. With two cameras I can maybe move the screens close together and go crosseyed, but I'm thinking more about the possibility of using the WiFi built into the Canon 6D and a Transcend WiFi SD card I happen to have lying around in the 500D to transfer photos from both to my phone where I could display them both side by side (or maybe something else with a built in 3D screen, but I'm not sure what). In practice I haven't had much luck getting the WiFi in these cameras working with anything much at all. Other options include using the video out or USB ports to get the image somewhere I can see it, or if I wanted to get really funky, use the fact that the Transcend WiFi SD card runs Linux and that it is possible to hack into it and run arbitrary software to use it to receive the photos on my Fujifilm W3 camera with the built in 3D screen, converting the images to .mpo on the fly so that camera can read them. In practice - all these solutions have too many moving parts, and will serve as a proof of concept, but probably not something practical to use day to day unless they are mounted to the rail itself.
I haven't practised the method I used for that landscape enough to get good at it - that photo was taken the first day I experimented with it once I had the rail and some messed up shit happened in my personal life the very next day after that and I haven't tried again since.

On a single camera you can flick between two images to get an idea, but I didn't catch the problem with the clouds or the shadows at the time. My workflow that day was highly experimental and needs refining - the camera was on a rail, which was on my tripod, but I wasn't certain how far I'd need to move the camera to get a good convergence - I'd done the maths, but I wasn't sure it was right and I couldn't really estimate the distance anyway. I wasn't sure if the rail I was using was going to be too long, or not long enough. So I focussed the lens, switched it to manual focus so it wouldn't change between shots, then moved it to the far left of the rail, took a photo, moved it 10cm to the right, took another, etc. until I got to the other side. I didn't really have any idea of how it had turned out until I was back at the B&B and able to process the photos - I ended up picking the two taken at the extreme edges for that - it was an 80cm Fomito rail, and I'd blocked the ends to make sure the camera couldn't fall off, so those photos were about 70cm apart.

I did take several other photos, but I found the ones with trees in the foreground were better - I think I would have needed a much, much longer rail to get a good stereoscopic photo of just the cliffs. But the rail I had chosen turned out to be about right with the trees in the foreground.

My plans to refine this include:
- Using a second camera as I mentioned and synchronising the shutters (either via a pair of modified remote shutter release cables, or possibly adding a feature to Magic Lantern to do so by some other means - I'd actually like to do that, because the software could also potentially synchronise the focus, f-stop, ISO, white balance, etc. on both cameras (but not the focal length - I'm not aware of any lenses that can drive that from software)... But, I don't think ML already has such a feature and it would mean finding my way around a new code base and risking bricking my cameras, so I'll probably start with the simpler hardware solution first.

- Use a shorter rail that is less cumbersome. For that particular landscape shot 80cm was a decent choice, and that's not too bad if it's in the car, but for most shots I'd want things to be a little more portable or I won't take any photos at all. I've picked up a smaller rail to attempt this - I chose one that I could mount two cameras on (search ebay for LP-03 macro - this was also cheaper than buying a second Fomito rail just to get a second slider to go on my existing rail), but haven't tried this yet so cannot report on my results.

- Find some way to preview it live. With two cameras I can maybe move the screens close together and go crosseyed, but I'm thinking more about the possibility of using the WiFi built into the Canon 6D and a Transcend WiFi SD card I happen to have lying around in the 500D to transfer photos from both to my phone where I could display them both side by side (or maybe something else with a built in 3D screen, but I'm not sure what). In practice I haven't had much luck getting the WiFi in these cameras working with anything much at all. Other options include using the video out or USB ports to get the image somewhere I can see it, or if I wanted to get really funky, use the fact that the Transcend WiFi SD card runs Linux and that it is possible to hack into it and run arbitrary software to use it to receive the photos on my Fujifilm W3 camera with the built in 3D screen, converting the images to .mpo on the fly so that camera can read them. In practice - all these solutions have too many moving parts, and will serve as a proof of concept, but probably not something practical to use day to day unless they are mounted to the rail itself.

2x Geforce GTX 980 in SLI provided by NVIDIA, i7 6700K 4GHz CPU, Asus 27" VG278HE 144Hz 3D Monitor, BenQ W1070 3D Projector, 120" Elite Screens YardMaster 2, 32GB Corsair DDR4 3200MHz RAM, Samsung 850 EVO 500G SSD, 4x750GB HDD in RAID5, Gigabyte Z170X-Gaming 7 Motherboard, Corsair Obsidian 750D Airflow Edition Case, Corsair RM850i PSU, HTC Vive, Win 10 64bit

Alienware M17x R4 w/ built in 3D, Intel i7 3740QM, GTX 680m 2GB, 16GB DDR3 1600MHz RAM, Win7 64bit, 1TB SSD, 1TB HDD, 750GB HDD

Pre-release 3D fixes, shadertool.py and other goodies: http://github.com/DarkStarSword/3d-fixes
Support me on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/DarkStarSword or PayPal: https://www.paypal.me/DarkStarSword

#10
Posted 01/24/2018 02:29 PM   
Cool pics here, wish they were in cross-view instead of parallel so I can see in 3D. On my website I share many pics with a viewer I modified to offer many viewing methods. I still own my W3 and wish there was a newer model. I'm not into 360 and would prefer a great 3D camera than one of the above but thanks for all those links, interesting to see 3D made a little return. Can I say that?
Cool pics here, wish they were in cross-view instead of parallel so I can see in 3D. On my website I share many pics with a viewer I modified to offer many viewing methods.

I still own my W3 and wish there was a newer model. I'm not into 360 and would prefer a great 3D camera than one of the above but thanks for all those links, interesting to see 3D made a little return. Can I say that?

3D Vision must live! NVIDIA, don't let us down!

#11
Posted 01/25/2018 02:30 AM   
[quote="Rhialto"]Cool pics here, wish they were in cross-view instead of parallel so I can see in 3D[/quote]It's because the Loreo lens combines the light from two separate perspectives onto a single image sensor, so that's the orientation they come out of the camera, and why there is a seam visible on those images where you can see some overlap between both perspectives. Only takes a moment to convert them to .jps / cross-eyed in SPCT using the procedure I outlined above - here you go (the landscape was already .jps): [url=https://forums.geforce.com/cmd/default/download-comment-attachment/74463/][img]https://forums.geforce.com/cmd/default/download-comment-attachment/74463/[/img][/url] [url=https://forums.geforce.com/cmd/default/download-comment-attachment/74438/][img]https://forums.geforce.com/cmd/default/download-comment-attachment/74438/[/img][/url] [url=https://forums.geforce.com/cmd/default/download-comment-attachment/74464/][img]https://forums.geforce.com/cmd/default/download-comment-attachment/74464/[/img][/url] [quote]On my website I share many pics with a viewer I modified to offer many viewing methods.[/quote]I wrote some scripts to do the same for my website: http://valen.darkstarsword.net/photos/stereo/ I really need to go and clean that up to look a little more professional at some point - it was the easiest way I could think of to share the photos with the models and to link a few example photos for my blog, but isn't really something I could use as a proper portfolio just yet. This is still my favourite, taken with the Fujifilm W3: [url=http://valen.darkstarsword.net/photos/stereo/workshops/crosseyed/DSCF3195-cropped.jpg][img]http://valen.darkstarsword.net/photos/stereo/workshops/crosseyed/DSCF3195-cropped.jpg[/img][/url] This model didn't need any direction to work out what poses would work in 3D: [url=http://valen.darkstarsword.net/photos/stereo/workshops/crosseyed/reaching.jpg][img]http://valen.darkstarsword.net/photos/stereo/workshops/crosseyed/reaching.jpg[/img][/url] [quote] I still own my W3 and wish there was a newer model. I'm not into 360 and would prefer a great 3D camera than one of the above but thanks for all those links, interesting to see 3D made a little return. Can I say that? [/quote]100% agree with you there :)
Rhialto said:Cool pics here, wish they were in cross-view instead of parallel so I can see in 3D
It's because the Loreo lens combines the light from two separate perspectives onto a single image sensor, so that's the orientation they come out of the camera, and why there is a seam visible on those images where you can see some overlap between both perspectives.

Only takes a moment to convert them to .jps / cross-eyed in SPCT using the procedure I outlined above - here you go (the landscape was already .jps):

Image

Image

Image

On my website I share many pics with a viewer I modified to offer many viewing methods.
I wrote some scripts to do the same for my website:

http://valen.darkstarsword.net/photos/stereo/

I really need to go and clean that up to look a little more professional at some point - it was the easiest way I could think of to share the photos with the models and to link a few example photos for my blog, but isn't really something I could use as a proper portfolio just yet. This is still my favourite, taken with the Fujifilm W3:

Image

This model didn't need any direction to work out what poses would work in 3D:

Image

I still own my W3 and wish there was a newer model. I'm not into 360 and would prefer a great 3D camera than one of the above but thanks for all those links, interesting to see 3D made a little return. Can I say that?
100% agree with you there :)

2x Geforce GTX 980 in SLI provided by NVIDIA, i7 6700K 4GHz CPU, Asus 27" VG278HE 144Hz 3D Monitor, BenQ W1070 3D Projector, 120" Elite Screens YardMaster 2, 32GB Corsair DDR4 3200MHz RAM, Samsung 850 EVO 500G SSD, 4x750GB HDD in RAID5, Gigabyte Z170X-Gaming 7 Motherboard, Corsair Obsidian 750D Airflow Edition Case, Corsair RM850i PSU, HTC Vive, Win 10 64bit

Alienware M17x R4 w/ built in 3D, Intel i7 3740QM, GTX 680m 2GB, 16GB DDR3 1600MHz RAM, Win7 64bit, 1TB SSD, 1TB HDD, 750GB HDD

Pre-release 3D fixes, shadertool.py and other goodies: http://github.com/DarkStarSword/3d-fixes
Support me on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/DarkStarSword or PayPal: https://www.paypal.me/DarkStarSword

#12
Posted 01/25/2018 03:42 AM   
I have a Lucid Cam gathering dust. Among my chief concerns and issues are NO VIEWFINDER (must use smartphone as viewfinder, held close to camera) and 1080p rectangular picture extracted from spherical 4K image has obvious non-uniform resolution. I still prefer my older W3 for 3D photos, even though its great lenticular 3D viewfinder is badly cracked. VR cameras are really focused upon using a smartphone in a VR headset like Daydream or Cardboard as a display, also. My Lucid Cam cannot display its VR images in higher-end HMDs like Rift or Vive, either (no viewing app or support).
I have a Lucid Cam gathering dust. Among my chief concerns and issues are NO VIEWFINDER (must use smartphone as viewfinder, held close to camera) and 1080p rectangular picture extracted from spherical 4K image has obvious non-uniform resolution. I still prefer my older W3 for 3D photos, even though its great lenticular 3D viewfinder is badly cracked.

VR cameras are really focused upon using a smartphone in a VR headset like Daydream or Cardboard as a display, also. My Lucid Cam cannot display its VR images in higher-end HMDs like Rift or Vive, either (no viewing app or support).

#13
Posted 01/25/2018 02:28 PM   
[quote="DarkStarSword"]This is still my favourite, taken with the Fujifilm W3: [url=http://valen.darkstarsword.net/photos/stereo/workshops/crosseyed/DSCF3195-cropped.jpg][img]http://valen.darkstarsword.net/photos/stereo/workshops/crosseyed/DSCF3195-cropped.jpg[/img][/url] [/quote] Very nice, easy to spend a few seconds here and there in the picture looking at all the different depths, lighting is also great. Have a look in my Stereoscopic section on Rhialto.com if you want to see a few, Is your favorite viewing method // or X?
DarkStarSword said:This is still my favourite, taken with the Fujifilm W3:

Image

Very nice, easy to spend a few seconds here and there in the picture looking at all the different depths, lighting is also great. Have a look in my Stereoscopic section on Rhialto.com if you want to see a few, Is your favorite viewing method // or X?

3D Vision must live! NVIDIA, don't let us down!

#14
Posted 01/26/2018 01:44 AM   
This new camera looks promising for it's cheap price. https://www.weeview.co/sid https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/698407115/sid-the-next-revolution-in-3d-storytelling https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c5838F_6WMU https://www.amazon.com/SID-Camera-Weeview-Stabilizer-Cinematic/dp/B077H8N6TJ/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1536451464&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=weeview&psc=1
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