I have a GeForce 7600 GS with 91.31 stereo drivers hooked up to my LCD monitor and DLP projector to play games and watch 3D movies (on the DLP projector). I tried the newer Nvidia STEREO drivers but could not get the 3D to work with my DLP projector. The 91.31 drivers do work - kinda!
When I run the "3D test" from Nvidia's CLASSIC Control Panel (big square, small square in front) it is in 3D, but it's BACKWARDS LOL! The smaller square is BEHIND the bigger square.
Same with the other "3D test" with the Nvidia logo that comes at you (looks like it's in a tunnel). The 3D effect is also reversed.
When I first reverted back to the 91.31 drivers I could rerun the 3D tests several times and eventually get it to display 3D correctly with my DLP projector. Not now. I have closed and rerun both of the 3D tests um-teen times, but it is always backwards or "reverse" 3D. With the "3D Logo" test, I have enabled/disabled 3D mode via the Ctrl-T function, hoping that might make it reverse the 3D eventually, but no go. I don't know what has happened!
The Stereoscopic Player has a "left/right" toggle button in the menu, so watching 3D movies is not a problem. They are all 50/50 anyway (some left/right, some right/left).
I've uninstalled my video card and reinstalled twice, but still the same problem.
Anyone else have this issue or know how to fix it? Thanks.
I have a GeForce 7600 GS with 91.31 stereo drivers hooked up to my LCD monitor and DLP projector to play games and watch 3D movies (on the DLP projector). I tried the newer Nvidia STEREO drivers but could not get the 3D to work with my DLP projector. The 91.31 drivers do work - kinda!
When I run the "3D test" from Nvidia's CLASSIC Control Panel (big square, small square in front) it is in 3D, but it's BACKWARDS LOL! The smaller square is BEHIND the bigger square.
Same with the other "3D test" with the Nvidia logo that comes at you (looks like it's in a tunnel). The 3D effect is also reversed.
When I first reverted back to the 91.31 drivers I could rerun the 3D tests several times and eventually get it to display 3D correctly with my DLP projector. Not now. I have closed and rerun both of the 3D tests um-teen times, but it is always backwards or "reverse" 3D. With the "3D Logo" test, I have enabled/disabled 3D mode via the Ctrl-T function, hoping that might make it reverse the 3D eventually, but no go. I don't know what has happened!
The Stereoscopic Player has a "left/right" toggle button in the menu, so watching 3D movies is not a problem. They are all 50/50 anyway (some left/right, some right/left).
I've uninstalled my video card and reinstalled twice, but still the same problem.
Anyone else have this issue or know how to fix it? Thanks.
Some DLP stereo projecters have an one frame delay, so they are perfectly out of stereo sync. So if you have active stereo glasses, you need to have the stereo emitter reverse the eyes, or you need the application to reverse the eyes. I believe the NuVision emitter has that switch, but the StereoGraphics ones don't. So it all depends what stereo hardware you are using.
Some DLP stereo projecters have an one frame delay, so they are perfectly out of stereo sync. So if you have active stereo glasses, you need to have the stereo emitter reverse the eyes, or you need the application to reverse the eyes. I believe the NuVision emitter has that switch, but the StereoGraphics ones don't. So it all depends what stereo hardware you are using.
Hi
There is a hardwhere and a softwhere solution to this problem. I use the stereoconverter from 3Dflightsim.com and there´s no problems with any games
you can find all info here:
[url="http://www.3dflightsim.com/parallax.htm"]http://www.3dflightsim.com/parallax.htm[/url]
Cheers
I remember that I used the ED-Activator from Edimensional before I got the converter.
Start the activator , select pageflipped and stereo on/resync, this worked for me in some games.
Other responses to your issue have been very good so far but let me add some.
I have the same problem with my viewsonic PJ503D DLP projector and I built a
little switchbox/junction box. It has one input and 5 outputs and a switch to flip
the eye-sync (parallax-inversion) . So I'm talking about wired glasses of course.
Assuming you are using or can use wired glasses, there's a good chance you can just go
to an electronics store or other and buy some cables that will do the job for you.
Normal wired glasses luckily use the same plugs as your mp3-player's earbuds.
Buy two cables with a stereo plug on one end and two RCA plugs on the other.
Buy two little double-ended female RCA adapters. If you use those to connect
the four male RCA plugs on the cables (matching the colors) then you get a longer
audio cable with a male stereo plug on each end. Buy/connect a double-ended female
jack to one end and you then have an audio extension cable. Plug one end into the
S3D dongle, plug your glasses into the other end and you're almost done. Now go
to the middle of the cable you made and swap the RCA plugs/jacks. This will swap
the signals that go to each eye. Last step: enjoy success.
You get the idea hopefully and can improve on it as you see fit using whatever
variation based on cables you already have. It's only good for one person, but you
can buy/make more splitters/adapters to support more wired viewers if you have the
glasses of course. I've heard wired signals can be split for up to at least 10 users but
I've only done five. I prefer the wired glasses because it's easier to tweak the signal
and you never need batteries.
Trivia: It turns out the left/right/ground signals are the same as for your earbuds:
the tip of the plug is the left ear/eye signal,
the middle contact of the plug is for the right eye/ear signal,
and the base contact is the common ground.
Neat huh?
I think it's just a 5 volt - 0 volt square/pulse waveform.
I have a hunch you could tweak it to make some LCD monitors work better in
interlaced/line-blanking mode. I'll try that someday.
Important: Make sure all cables/adaptors you buy are stereo, not mono. It's easy
to buy the wrong one sometimes.
You can change it with some default hotkeys if your 3d-driver version has it available.
Skip to the conclusion if you don't want to read the story of how I figured it out.
Begin Story:
I took a look at the registry settings and was curious about a few new ones I noticed in version 162.15.
Under the NVIDIA Corporation\Global\Stereo3D entries I found these:
GlassesSwitchDelay --- default 0
GlassesDelayPlus --- default 4bb
GlassesDelayMinus --- default 4bd
I don't know which version these first showed up in but anyways...
I started tweaking GlassesSwitchDelay and running nvsttest and I found that when the value
was over 25 (decimal) the 3d was reversed! I kept increasing it to over 256 thinking that it
would switch back but it never did. Then I tried different refresh rates and resolutions.
For 1024x768 the number was over 15 to flip eyes. So the number is dependant on resolution
but not refresh rate (could be untrue on another system).
Then I thought about the other entries: GlassesDelayPlus/Minus. I eventually realized these
represented keystroke combinations for hotkeys. I edited the registry values switching them
with GammaAdjustMore/Less and looked at the nvidia stereo control settings. This showed
me that increase/decrease gamma keystrokes were now mapped to Alt-equals and Alt-minus.
After resetting the default values for these things I started nvsttest and tried increasing the
GlassesSwitchDelay using the GlassesDelayPlus hotkey (Alt-=). Eventually the 3d reversed
and Alt-minus brought it back to normal. Hurray!
End Story.
Conclusion: Just hit Alt-= until the 3d switches or edit the registry setting GlassesSwitchDelay
to over 30 or something. Again this may only work with newer versions. I still have to try
this with older ones. Creating that entry if it doesn't exist may work but I doubt it.
Here are some neat and odd and possibly dorky but good ideas for designers of 3d lcd shutterglasses.
Design them so that you CAN wear them upside-down. Either design them with funky
horizontally symmetric frames with possibly double ear-stems, or design them so that
the ear-stems are removable and reattatchable to the new upside-down configuration.
I think that would be good although not normally needed since the system should always
know how it should be synced. Still, there are times like when watching 3d movies in certain
formats. You wouldn't be dependant on software to switch eye-sync.
Design #2 is for people who already wear glasses. Make a clip-on pair of shutter glasses like
those clip-on sunglasses. Then make them so that you can clip them on either way, frontwards
or flipped around backwards or else upside-down. Probably frontwards/backwards should be fine.
One more modification could be for LCD displays. Either make the LCD lenses rotatable by at least
90 degrees or else allow a second LCD glass to be added to fix polarization of incoming light.
The second glass would have no polarizing film on it. I don't expect everyone to understand this last
part. It's not a complete solution to LCD displays anyway. Still, with rotatable lenses, you could use
the glasses as unpowered polarized glasses if you have a silver screen polarized 3d dual projector setup.
Just some thoughts. I thought they might be interesting to some of you.
Are you listening nvidia? Free ideas here. Use 'em.
Maybe it could be a good project for someone to rebuild their own glasses using these ides.
Please do and tell us about it.
[quote name='iondrive' post='504076' date='Feb 10 2009, 05:19 PM']Here are some neat and odd and possibly dorky but good ideas for designers of 3d lcd shutterglasses.
Design them so that you CAN wear them upside-down. Either design them with funky
horizontally symmetric frames with possibly double ear-stems, or design them so that
the ear-stems are removable and reattatchable to the new upside-down configuration.
I think that would be good although not normally needed since the system should always
know how it should be synced. Still, there are times like when watching 3d movies in certain
formats. You wouldn't be dependant on software to switch eye-sync.
Design #2 is for people who already wear glasses. Make a clip-on pair of shutter glasses like
those clip-on sunglasses. Then make them so that you can clip them on either way, frontwards
or flipped around backwards or else upside-down. Probably frontwards/backwards should be fine.
One more modification could be for LCD displays. Either make the LCD lenses rotatable by at least
90 degrees or else allow a second LCD glass to be added to fix polarization of incoming light.
The second glass would have no polarizing film on it. I don't expect everyone to understand this last
part. It's not a complete solution to LCD displays anyway. Still, with rotatable lenses, you could use
the glasses as unpowered polarized glasses if you have a silver screen polarized 3d dual projector setup.
Just some thoughts. I thought they might be interesting to some of you.
Are you listening nvidia? Free ideas here. Use 'em.[/quote]
Uh, wouldn't it be easier to just have a button or switch on the glasses that reverses the shutter flips?
[quote name='iondrive' post='504076' date='Feb 10 2009, 05:19 PM']Here are some neat and odd and possibly dorky but good ideas for designers of 3d lcd shutterglasses.
Design them so that you CAN wear them upside-down. Either design them with funky
horizontally symmetric frames with possibly double ear-stems, or design them so that
the ear-stems are removable and reattatchable to the new upside-down configuration.
I think that would be good although not normally needed since the system should always
know how it should be synced. Still, there are times like when watching 3d movies in certain
formats. You wouldn't be dependant on software to switch eye-sync.
Design #2 is for people who already wear glasses. Make a clip-on pair of shutter glasses like
those clip-on sunglasses. Then make them so that you can clip them on either way, frontwards
or flipped around backwards or else upside-down. Probably frontwards/backwards should be fine.
One more modification could be for LCD displays. Either make the LCD lenses rotatable by at least
90 degrees or else allow a second LCD glass to be added to fix polarization of incoming light.
The second glass would have no polarizing film on it. I don't expect everyone to understand this last
part. It's not a complete solution to LCD displays anyway. Still, with rotatable lenses, you could use
the glasses as unpowered polarized glasses if you have a silver screen polarized 3d dual projector setup.
Just some thoughts. I thought they might be interesting to some of you.
Are you listening nvidia? Free ideas here. Use 'em.
Uh, wouldn't it be easier to just have a button or switch on the glasses that reverses the shutter flips?
[quote name='rkuo' post='504078' date='Feb 10 2009, 08:23 PM']Uh, wouldn't it be easier to just have a button or switch on the glasses that reverses the shutter flips?[/quote]
yes, easier for the user if the switch was on the glasses, but if you only have to adjust it once,
like when you use a projector that displays one frame behind, then I think it's not a big deal.
I have a version with a wired control and I would prefer the switch be on the glasses instead,
but I think it would be easier/cheaper to design it reversible, especially if they were clip-ons.
Oh no another idea:
I suppose they could double as sunglass clip-ons, especially if you include a circuit to adjust the voltage
either manually or automatically. Then there's a battery problem, but I guess you could put solar cells on
them. OK this is getting crazy. Too much caffeine. Maybe it's not that bad of an idea if you're going to
spend over $100 on glasses, they might as well be multi-purpose. Many sunglasses are polarized anyway
and so is LCD glass. They can make these so that they are stylish. It would need U-V blocking though.
I just remembered. There are facemasks for welders with LCD glass that turns dark when they start
welding because there's a sensor built in. Pretty slick. I think they're over $200.
[quote name='rkuo' post='504078' date='Feb 10 2009, 08:23 PM']Uh, wouldn't it be easier to just have a button or switch on the glasses that reverses the shutter flips?
yes, easier for the user if the switch was on the glasses, but if you only have to adjust it once,
like when you use a projector that displays one frame behind, then I think it's not a big deal.
I have a version with a wired control and I would prefer the switch be on the glasses instead,
but I think it would be easier/cheaper to design it reversible, especially if they were clip-ons.
Oh no another idea:
I suppose they could double as sunglass clip-ons, especially if you include a circuit to adjust the voltage
either manually or automatically. Then there's a battery problem, but I guess you could put solar cells on
them. OK this is getting crazy. Too much caffeine. Maybe it's not that bad of an idea if you're going to
spend over $100 on glasses, they might as well be multi-purpose. Many sunglasses are polarized anyway
and so is LCD glass. They can make these so that they are stylish. It would need U-V blocking though.
I just remembered. There are facemasks for welders with LCD glass that turns dark when they start
welding because there's a sensor built in. Pretty slick. I think they're over $200.
You can change it with some default hotkeys if your 3d-driver version has it available.
Skip to the conclusion if you don't want to read the story of how I figured it out.
Begin Story:
I took a look at the registry settings and was curious about a few new ones I noticed in version 162.15.
Under the NVIDIA Corporation\Global\Stereo3D entries I found these:
GlassesSwitchDelay --- default 0
GlassesDelayPlus --- default 4bb
GlassesDelayMinus --- default 4bd
I don't know which version these first showed up in but anyways...
I started tweaking GlassesSwitchDelay and running nvsttest and I found that when the value
was over 25 (decimal) the 3d was reversed! I kept increasing it to over 256 thinking that it
would switch back but it never did. Then I tried different refresh rates and resolutions.
For 1024x768 the number was over 15 to flip eyes. So the number is dependant on resolution
but not refresh rate (could be untrue on another system).
Then I thought about the other entries: GlassesDelayPlus/Minus. I eventually realized these
represented keystroke combinations for hotkeys. I edited the registry values switching them
with GammaAdjustMore/Less and looked at the nvidia stereo control settings. This showed
me that increase/decrease gamma keystrokes were now mapped to Alt-equals and Alt-minus.
After resetting the default values for these things I started nvsttest and tried increasing the
GlassesSwitchDelay using the GlassesDelayPlus hotkey (Alt-=). Eventually the 3d reversed
and Alt-minus brought it back to normal. Hurray!
End Story.
Conclusion: Just hit Alt-= until the 3d switches or edit the registry setting GlassesSwitchDelay
to over 30 or something. Again this may only work with newer versions. I still have to try
this with older ones. Creating that entry if it doesn't exist may work but I doubt it.[/quote]
i've tried remapping it also (cause i do not have a US keyboard), also i've tried changing my keyboard to US to get the propper keys but it doesn't seems it works... wich driver you was using during this test?
i'm gone backward till cd driver 1.0 and driver version 180.81... should i go earlier ?
You can change it with some default hotkeys if your 3d-driver version has it available.
Skip to the conclusion if you don't want to read the story of how I figured it out.
Begin Story:
I took a look at the registry settings and was curious about a few new ones I noticed in version 162.15.
Under the NVIDIA Corporation\Global\Stereo3D entries I found these:
GlassesSwitchDelay --- default 0
GlassesDelayPlus --- default 4bb
GlassesDelayMinus --- default 4bd
I don't know which version these first showed up in but anyways...
I started tweaking GlassesSwitchDelay and running nvsttest and I found that when the value
was over 25 (decimal) the 3d was reversed! I kept increasing it to over 256 thinking that it
would switch back but it never did. Then I tried different refresh rates and resolutions.
For 1024x768 the number was over 15 to flip eyes. So the number is dependant on resolution
but not refresh rate (could be untrue on another system).
Then I thought about the other entries: GlassesDelayPlus/Minus. I eventually realized these
represented keystroke combinations for hotkeys. I edited the registry values switching them
with GammaAdjustMore/Less and looked at the nvidia stereo control settings. This showed
me that increase/decrease gamma keystrokes were now mapped to Alt-equals and Alt-minus.
After resetting the default values for these things I started nvsttest and tried increasing the
GlassesSwitchDelay using the GlassesDelayPlus hotkey (Alt-=). Eventually the 3d reversed
and Alt-minus brought it back to normal. Hurray!
End Story.
Conclusion: Just hit Alt-= until the 3d switches or edit the registry setting GlassesSwitchDelay
to over 30 or something. Again this may only work with newer versions. I still have to try
this with older ones. Creating that entry if it doesn't exist may work but I doubt it.
i've tried remapping it also (cause i do not have a US keyboard), also i've tried changing my keyboard to US to get the propper keys but it doesn't seems it works... wich driver you was using during this test?
i'm gone backward till cd driver 1.0 and driver version 180.81... should i go earlier ?
You may notice that the last post in this thread was February 12th. This is when these hotkeys worked.
Only in the old drivers do these keys work, not in the new ones, so if you are willing to give up the new updates in the new drivers, you can use old drivers (not sure which version) and use the hotkeys...
Nick
PS I am trying to get NVIDIA to enable these hotkeys again, but it doesnt look likely
You may notice that the last post in this thread was February 12th. This is when these hotkeys worked.
Only in the old drivers do these keys work, not in the new ones, so if you are willing to give up the new updates in the new drivers, you can use old drivers (not sure which version) and use the hotkeys...
Nick
PS I am trying to get NVIDIA to enable these hotkeys again, but it doesnt look likely
Twitter: @Dr_Inkduff
<b>Processor:</b> Intel Core i7 920 D0 (4Ghz) <b>Motherboard:</b> ASUS P6T
[quote name='Dr Nick' post='597565' date='Oct 7 2009, 08:35 AM']You may notice that the last post in this thread was February 12th. This is when these hotkeys worked.
Only in the old drivers do these keys work, not in the new ones, so if you are willing to give up the new updates in the new drivers, you can use old drivers (not sure which version) and use the hotkeys...
Nick
PS I am trying to get NVIDIA to enable these hotkeys again, but it doesnt look likely[/quote]
yes i've nocited, in fact i've taken the cd 1.0 that are from january 2009... but it doesn't seems it works, at least with the samsung 2233rz, tried many times, tried changing also that value to above 30 but i get no difference at all in any way
delay plus and delay minus also doesn't works, tried changing also key binds... /blarg.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':/' />
[quote name='Dr Nick' post='597565' date='Oct 7 2009, 08:35 AM']You may notice that the last post in this thread was February 12th. This is when these hotkeys worked.
Only in the old drivers do these keys work, not in the new ones, so if you are willing to give up the new updates in the new drivers, you can use old drivers (not sure which version) and use the hotkeys...
Nick
PS I am trying to get NVIDIA to enable these hotkeys again, but it doesnt look likely
yes i've nocited, in fact i've taken the cd 1.0 that are from january 2009... but it doesn't seems it works, at least with the samsung 2233rz, tried many times, tried changing also that value to above 30 but i get no difference at all in any way
delay plus and delay minus also doesn't works, tried changing also key binds... /blarg.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':/' />
When I run the "3D test" from Nvidia's CLASSIC Control Panel (big square, small square in front) it is in 3D, but it's BACKWARDS LOL! The smaller square is BEHIND the bigger square.
Same with the other "3D test" with the Nvidia logo that comes at you (looks like it's in a tunnel). The 3D effect is also reversed.
When I first reverted back to the 91.31 drivers I could rerun the 3D tests several times and eventually get it to display 3D correctly with my DLP projector. Not now. I have closed and rerun both of the 3D tests um-teen times, but it is always backwards or "reverse" 3D. With the "3D Logo" test, I have enabled/disabled 3D mode via the Ctrl-T function, hoping that might make it reverse the 3D eventually, but no go. I don't know what has happened!
The Stereoscopic Player has a "left/right" toggle button in the menu, so watching 3D movies is not a problem. They are all 50/50 anyway (some left/right, some right/left).
I've uninstalled my video card and reinstalled twice, but still the same problem.
Anyone else have this issue or know how to fix it? Thanks.
When I run the "3D test" from Nvidia's CLASSIC Control Panel (big square, small square in front) it is in 3D, but it's BACKWARDS LOL! The smaller square is BEHIND the bigger square.
Same with the other "3D test" with the Nvidia logo that comes at you (looks like it's in a tunnel). The 3D effect is also reversed.
When I first reverted back to the 91.31 drivers I could rerun the 3D tests several times and eventually get it to display 3D correctly with my DLP projector. Not now. I have closed and rerun both of the 3D tests um-teen times, but it is always backwards or "reverse" 3D. With the "3D Logo" test, I have enabled/disabled 3D mode via the Ctrl-T function, hoping that might make it reverse the 3D eventually, but no go. I don't know what has happened!
The Stereoscopic Player has a "left/right" toggle button in the menu, so watching 3D movies is not a problem. They are all 50/50 anyway (some left/right, some right/left).
I've uninstalled my video card and reinstalled twice, but still the same problem.
Anyone else have this issue or know how to fix it? Thanks.
These ones have a reverse switch: [url="http://www.xforce3d.com/"]http://www.xforce3d.com/[/url]
These ones have a reverse switch: http://www.xforce3d.com/
There is a hardwhere and a softwhere solution to this problem. I use the stereoconverter from 3Dflightsim.com and there´s no problems with any games
you can find all info here:
[url="http://www.3dflightsim.com/parallax.htm"]http://www.3dflightsim.com/parallax.htm[/url]
Cheers
There is a hardwhere and a softwhere solution to this problem. I use the stereoconverter from 3Dflightsim.com and there´s no problems with any games
you can find all info here:
http://www.3dflightsim.com/parallax.htm
Cheers
Start the activator , select pageflipped and stereo on/resync, this worked for me in some games.
Start the activator , select pageflipped and stereo on/resync, this worked for me in some games.
Other responses to your issue have been very good so far but let me add some.
I have the same problem with my viewsonic PJ503D DLP projector and I built a
little switchbox/junction box. It has one input and 5 outputs and a switch to flip
the eye-sync (parallax-inversion) . So I'm talking about wired glasses of course.
Assuming you are using or can use wired glasses, there's a good chance you can just go
to an electronics store or other and buy some cables that will do the job for you.
Normal wired glasses luckily use the same plugs as your mp3-player's earbuds.
Buy two cables with a stereo plug on one end and two RCA plugs on the other.
Buy two little double-ended female RCA adapters. If you use those to connect
the four male RCA plugs on the cables (matching the colors) then you get a longer
audio cable with a male stereo plug on each end. Buy/connect a double-ended female
jack to one end and you then have an audio extension cable. Plug one end into the
S3D dongle, plug your glasses into the other end and you're almost done. Now go
to the middle of the cable you made and swap the RCA plugs/jacks. This will swap
the signals that go to each eye. Last step: enjoy success.
You get the idea hopefully and can improve on it as you see fit using whatever
variation based on cables you already have. It's only good for one person, but you
can buy/make more splitters/adapters to support more wired viewers if you have the
glasses of course. I've heard wired signals can be split for up to at least 10 users but
I've only done five. I prefer the wired glasses because it's easier to tweak the signal
and you never need batteries.
Trivia: It turns out the left/right/ground signals are the same as for your earbuds:
the tip of the plug is the left ear/eye signal,
the middle contact of the plug is for the right eye/ear signal,
and the base contact is the common ground.
Neat huh?
I think it's just a 5 volt - 0 volt square/pulse waveform.
I have a hunch you could tweak it to make some LCD monitors work better in
interlaced/line-blanking mode. I'll try that someday.
Important: Make sure all cables/adaptors you buy are stereo, not mono. It's easy
to buy the wrong one sometimes.
good luck improvising your own solution.
Other responses to your issue have been very good so far but let me add some.
I have the same problem with my viewsonic PJ503D DLP projector and I built a
little switchbox/junction box. It has one input and 5 outputs and a switch to flip
the eye-sync (parallax-inversion) . So I'm talking about wired glasses of course.
Assuming you are using or can use wired glasses, there's a good chance you can just go
to an electronics store or other and buy some cables that will do the job for you.
Normal wired glasses luckily use the same plugs as your mp3-player's earbuds.
Buy two cables with a stereo plug on one end and two RCA plugs on the other.
Buy two little double-ended female RCA adapters. If you use those to connect
the four male RCA plugs on the cables (matching the colors) then you get a longer
audio cable with a male stereo plug on each end. Buy/connect a double-ended female
jack to one end and you then have an audio extension cable. Plug one end into the
S3D dongle, plug your glasses into the other end and you're almost done. Now go
to the middle of the cable you made and swap the RCA plugs/jacks. This will swap
the signals that go to each eye. Last step: enjoy success.
You get the idea hopefully and can improve on it as you see fit using whatever
variation based on cables you already have. It's only good for one person, but you
can buy/make more splitters/adapters to support more wired viewers if you have the
glasses of course. I've heard wired signals can be split for up to at least 10 users but
I've only done five. I prefer the wired glasses because it's easier to tweak the signal
and you never need batteries.
Trivia: It turns out the left/right/ground signals are the same as for your earbuds:
the tip of the plug is the left ear/eye signal,
the middle contact of the plug is for the right eye/ear signal,
and the base contact is the common ground.
Neat huh?
I think it's just a 5 volt - 0 volt square/pulse waveform.
I have a hunch you could tweak it to make some LCD monitors work better in
interlaced/line-blanking mode. I'll try that someday.
Important: Make sure all cables/adaptors you buy are stereo, not mono. It's easy
to buy the wrong one sometimes.
good luck improvising your own solution.
You can change it with some default hotkeys if your 3d-driver version has it available.
Skip to the conclusion if you don't want to read the story of how I figured it out.
Begin Story:
I took a look at the registry settings and was curious about a few new ones I noticed in version 162.15.
Under the NVIDIA Corporation\Global\Stereo3D entries I found these:
GlassesSwitchDelay --- default 0
GlassesDelayPlus --- default 4bb
GlassesDelayMinus --- default 4bd
I don't know which version these first showed up in but anyways...
I started tweaking GlassesSwitchDelay and running nvsttest and I found that when the value
was over 25 (decimal) the 3d was reversed! I kept increasing it to over 256 thinking that it
would switch back but it never did. Then I tried different refresh rates and resolutions.
For 1024x768 the number was over 15 to flip eyes. So the number is dependant on resolution
but not refresh rate (could be untrue on another system).
Then I thought about the other entries: GlassesDelayPlus/Minus. I eventually realized these
represented keystroke combinations for hotkeys. I edited the registry values switching them
with GammaAdjustMore/Less and looked at the nvidia stereo control settings. This showed
me that increase/decrease gamma keystrokes were now mapped to Alt-equals and Alt-minus.
After resetting the default values for these things I started nvsttest and tried increasing the
GlassesSwitchDelay using the GlassesDelayPlus hotkey (Alt-=). Eventually the 3d reversed
and Alt-minus brought it back to normal. Hurray!
End Story.
Conclusion: Just hit Alt-= until the 3d switches or edit the registry setting GlassesSwitchDelay
to over 30 or something. Again this may only work with newer versions. I still have to try
this with older ones. Creating that entry if it doesn't exist may work but I doubt it.
You can change it with some default hotkeys if your 3d-driver version has it available.
Skip to the conclusion if you don't want to read the story of how I figured it out.
Begin Story:
I took a look at the registry settings and was curious about a few new ones I noticed in version 162.15.
Under the NVIDIA Corporation\Global\Stereo3D entries I found these:
GlassesSwitchDelay --- default 0
GlassesDelayPlus --- default 4bb
GlassesDelayMinus --- default 4bd
I don't know which version these first showed up in but anyways...
I started tweaking GlassesSwitchDelay and running nvsttest and I found that when the value
was over 25 (decimal) the 3d was reversed! I kept increasing it to over 256 thinking that it
would switch back but it never did. Then I tried different refresh rates and resolutions.
For 1024x768 the number was over 15 to flip eyes. So the number is dependant on resolution
but not refresh rate (could be untrue on another system).
Then I thought about the other entries: GlassesDelayPlus/Minus. I eventually realized these
represented keystroke combinations for hotkeys. I edited the registry values switching them
with GammaAdjustMore/Less and looked at the nvidia stereo control settings. This showed
me that increase/decrease gamma keystrokes were now mapped to Alt-equals and Alt-minus.
After resetting the default values for these things I started nvsttest and tried increasing the
GlassesSwitchDelay using the GlassesDelayPlus hotkey (Alt-=). Eventually the 3d reversed
and Alt-minus brought it back to normal. Hurray!
End Story.
Conclusion: Just hit Alt-= until the 3d switches or edit the registry setting GlassesSwitchDelay
to over 30 or something. Again this may only work with newer versions. I still have to try
this with older ones. Creating that entry if it doesn't exist may work but I doubt it.
Design them so that you CAN wear them upside-down. Either design them with funky
horizontally symmetric frames with possibly double ear-stems, or design them so that
the ear-stems are removable and reattatchable to the new upside-down configuration.
I think that would be good although not normally needed since the system should always
know how it should be synced. Still, there are times like when watching 3d movies in certain
formats. You wouldn't be dependant on software to switch eye-sync.
Design #2 is for people who already wear glasses. Make a clip-on pair of shutter glasses like
those clip-on sunglasses. Then make them so that you can clip them on either way, frontwards
or flipped around backwards or else upside-down. Probably frontwards/backwards should be fine.
One more modification could be for LCD displays. Either make the LCD lenses rotatable by at least
90 degrees or else allow a second LCD glass to be added to fix polarization of incoming light.
The second glass would have no polarizing film on it. I don't expect everyone to understand this last
part. It's not a complete solution to LCD displays anyway. Still, with rotatable lenses, you could use
the glasses as unpowered polarized glasses if you have a silver screen polarized 3d dual projector setup.
Just some thoughts. I thought they might be interesting to some of you.
Are you listening nvidia? Free ideas here. Use 'em.
Maybe it could be a good project for someone to rebuild their own glasses using these ides.
Please do and tell us about it.
Design them so that you CAN wear them upside-down. Either design them with funky
horizontally symmetric frames with possibly double ear-stems, or design them so that
the ear-stems are removable and reattatchable to the new upside-down configuration.
I think that would be good although not normally needed since the system should always
know how it should be synced. Still, there are times like when watching 3d movies in certain
formats. You wouldn't be dependant on software to switch eye-sync.
Design #2 is for people who already wear glasses. Make a clip-on pair of shutter glasses like
those clip-on sunglasses. Then make them so that you can clip them on either way, frontwards
or flipped around backwards or else upside-down. Probably frontwards/backwards should be fine.
One more modification could be for LCD displays. Either make the LCD lenses rotatable by at least
90 degrees or else allow a second LCD glass to be added to fix polarization of incoming light.
The second glass would have no polarizing film on it. I don't expect everyone to understand this last
part. It's not a complete solution to LCD displays anyway. Still, with rotatable lenses, you could use
the glasses as unpowered polarized glasses if you have a silver screen polarized 3d dual projector setup.
Just some thoughts. I thought they might be interesting to some of you.
Are you listening nvidia? Free ideas here. Use 'em.
Maybe it could be a good project for someone to rebuild their own glasses using these ides.
Please do and tell us about it.
Design them so that you CAN wear them upside-down. Either design them with funky
horizontally symmetric frames with possibly double ear-stems, or design them so that
the ear-stems are removable and reattatchable to the new upside-down configuration.
I think that would be good although not normally needed since the system should always
know how it should be synced. Still, there are times like when watching 3d movies in certain
formats. You wouldn't be dependant on software to switch eye-sync.
Design #2 is for people who already wear glasses. Make a clip-on pair of shutter glasses like
those clip-on sunglasses. Then make them so that you can clip them on either way, frontwards
or flipped around backwards or else upside-down. Probably frontwards/backwards should be fine.
One more modification could be for LCD displays. Either make the LCD lenses rotatable by at least
90 degrees or else allow a second LCD glass to be added to fix polarization of incoming light.
The second glass would have no polarizing film on it. I don't expect everyone to understand this last
part. It's not a complete solution to LCD displays anyway. Still, with rotatable lenses, you could use
the glasses as unpowered polarized glasses if you have a silver screen polarized 3d dual projector setup.
Just some thoughts. I thought they might be interesting to some of you.
Are you listening nvidia? Free ideas here. Use 'em.[/quote]
Uh, wouldn't it be easier to just have a button or switch on the glasses that reverses the shutter flips?
Design them so that you CAN wear them upside-down. Either design them with funky
horizontally symmetric frames with possibly double ear-stems, or design them so that
the ear-stems are removable and reattatchable to the new upside-down configuration.
I think that would be good although not normally needed since the system should always
know how it should be synced. Still, there are times like when watching 3d movies in certain
formats. You wouldn't be dependant on software to switch eye-sync.
Design #2 is for people who already wear glasses. Make a clip-on pair of shutter glasses like
those clip-on sunglasses. Then make them so that you can clip them on either way, frontwards
or flipped around backwards or else upside-down. Probably frontwards/backwards should be fine.
One more modification could be for LCD displays. Either make the LCD lenses rotatable by at least
90 degrees or else allow a second LCD glass to be added to fix polarization of incoming light.
The second glass would have no polarizing film on it. I don't expect everyone to understand this last
part. It's not a complete solution to LCD displays anyway. Still, with rotatable lenses, you could use
the glasses as unpowered polarized glasses if you have a silver screen polarized 3d dual projector setup.
Just some thoughts. I thought they might be interesting to some of you.
Are you listening nvidia? Free ideas here. Use 'em.
Uh, wouldn't it be easier to just have a button or switch on the glasses that reverses the shutter flips?
yes, easier for the user if the switch was on the glasses, but if you only have to adjust it once,
like when you use a projector that displays one frame behind, then I think it's not a big deal.
I have a version with a wired control and I would prefer the switch be on the glasses instead,
but I think it would be easier/cheaper to design it reversible, especially if they were clip-ons.
Oh no another idea:
I suppose they could double as sunglass clip-ons, especially if you include a circuit to adjust the voltage
either manually or automatically. Then there's a battery problem, but I guess you could put solar cells on
them. OK this is getting crazy. Too much caffeine. Maybe it's not that bad of an idea if you're going to
spend over $100 on glasses, they might as well be multi-purpose. Many sunglasses are polarized anyway
and so is LCD glass. They can make these so that they are stylish. It would need U-V blocking though.
I just remembered. There are facemasks for welders with LCD glass that turns dark when they start
welding because there's a sensor built in. Pretty slick. I think they're over $200.
later
yes, easier for the user if the switch was on the glasses, but if you only have to adjust it once,
like when you use a projector that displays one frame behind, then I think it's not a big deal.
I have a version with a wired control and I would prefer the switch be on the glasses instead,
but I think it would be easier/cheaper to design it reversible, especially if they were clip-ons.
Oh no another idea:
I suppose they could double as sunglass clip-ons, especially if you include a circuit to adjust the voltage
either manually or automatically. Then there's a battery problem, but I guess you could put solar cells on
them. OK this is getting crazy. Too much caffeine. Maybe it's not that bad of an idea if you're going to
spend over $100 on glasses, they might as well be multi-purpose. Many sunglasses are polarized anyway
and so is LCD glass. They can make these so that they are stylish. It would need U-V blocking though.
I just remembered. There are facemasks for welders with LCD glass that turns dark when they start
welding because there's a sensor built in. Pretty slick. I think they're over $200.
later
You can change it with some default hotkeys if your 3d-driver version has it available.
Skip to the conclusion if you don't want to read the story of how I figured it out.
Begin Story:
I took a look at the registry settings and was curious about a few new ones I noticed in version 162.15.
Under the NVIDIA Corporation\Global\Stereo3D entries I found these:
GlassesSwitchDelay --- default 0
GlassesDelayPlus --- default 4bb
GlassesDelayMinus --- default 4bd
I don't know which version these first showed up in but anyways...
I started tweaking GlassesSwitchDelay and running nvsttest and I found that when the value
was over 25 (decimal) the 3d was reversed! I kept increasing it to over 256 thinking that it
would switch back but it never did. Then I tried different refresh rates and resolutions.
For 1024x768 the number was over 15 to flip eyes. So the number is dependant on resolution
but not refresh rate (could be untrue on another system).
Then I thought about the other entries: GlassesDelayPlus/Minus. I eventually realized these
represented keystroke combinations for hotkeys. I edited the registry values switching them
with GammaAdjustMore/Less and looked at the nvidia stereo control settings. This showed
me that increase/decrease gamma keystrokes were now mapped to Alt-equals and Alt-minus.
After resetting the default values for these things I started nvsttest and tried increasing the
GlassesSwitchDelay using the GlassesDelayPlus hotkey (Alt-=). Eventually the 3d reversed
and Alt-minus brought it back to normal. Hurray!
End Story.
Conclusion: Just hit Alt-= until the 3d switches or edit the registry setting GlassesSwitchDelay
to over 30 or something. Again this may only work with newer versions. I still have to try
this with older ones. Creating that entry if it doesn't exist may work but I doubt it.[/quote]
i've tried remapping it also (cause i do not have a US keyboard), also i've tried changing my keyboard to US to get the propper keys but it doesn't seems it works... wich driver you was using during this test?
i'm gone backward till cd driver 1.0 and driver version 180.81... should i go earlier ?
thanks
You can change it with some default hotkeys if your 3d-driver version has it available.
Skip to the conclusion if you don't want to read the story of how I figured it out.
Begin Story:
I took a look at the registry settings and was curious about a few new ones I noticed in version 162.15.
Under the NVIDIA Corporation\Global\Stereo3D entries I found these:
GlassesSwitchDelay --- default 0
GlassesDelayPlus --- default 4bb
GlassesDelayMinus --- default 4bd
I don't know which version these first showed up in but anyways...
I started tweaking GlassesSwitchDelay and running nvsttest and I found that when the value
was over 25 (decimal) the 3d was reversed! I kept increasing it to over 256 thinking that it
would switch back but it never did. Then I tried different refresh rates and resolutions.
For 1024x768 the number was over 15 to flip eyes. So the number is dependant on resolution
but not refresh rate (could be untrue on another system).
Then I thought about the other entries: GlassesDelayPlus/Minus. I eventually realized these
represented keystroke combinations for hotkeys. I edited the registry values switching them
with GammaAdjustMore/Less and looked at the nvidia stereo control settings. This showed
me that increase/decrease gamma keystrokes were now mapped to Alt-equals and Alt-minus.
After resetting the default values for these things I started nvsttest and tried increasing the
GlassesSwitchDelay using the GlassesDelayPlus hotkey (Alt-=). Eventually the 3d reversed
and Alt-minus brought it back to normal. Hurray!
End Story.
Conclusion: Just hit Alt-= until the 3d switches or edit the registry setting GlassesSwitchDelay
to over 30 or something. Again this may only work with newer versions. I still have to try
this with older ones. Creating that entry if it doesn't exist may work but I doubt it.
i've tried remapping it also (cause i do not have a US keyboard), also i've tried changing my keyboard to US to get the propper keys but it doesn't seems it works... wich driver you was using during this test?
i'm gone backward till cd driver 1.0 and driver version 180.81... should i go earlier ?
thanks
Only in the old drivers do these keys work, not in the new ones, so if you are willing to give up the new updates in the new drivers, you can use old drivers (not sure which version) and use the hotkeys...
Nick
PS I am trying to get NVIDIA to enable these hotkeys again, but it doesnt look likely
Only in the old drivers do these keys work, not in the new ones, so if you are willing to give up the new updates in the new drivers, you can use old drivers (not sure which version) and use the hotkeys...
Nick
PS I am trying to get NVIDIA to enable these hotkeys again, but it doesnt look likely
Twitter: @Dr_Inkduff
<b>Processor:</b> Intel Core i7 920 D0 (4Ghz) <b>Motherboard:</b> ASUS P6T
<b>Memory:</b> 6GB DDR3 RAM (Kingston) <b>Graphics:</b> GTX 260 (216 cores, physX); EVGA GTX 480 SC
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<b>Monitors:</b> 24" ACER GD245HQbd 120Hz 1920*1080 + 22" widescreen LCD 1680x1050
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Only in the old drivers do these keys work, not in the new ones, so if you are willing to give up the new updates in the new drivers, you can use old drivers (not sure which version) and use the hotkeys...
Nick
PS I am trying to get NVIDIA to enable these hotkeys again, but it doesnt look likely[/quote]
yes i've nocited, in fact i've taken the cd 1.0 that are from january 2009... but it doesn't seems it works, at least with the samsung 2233rz, tried many times, tried changing also that value to above 30 but i get no difference at all in any way
delay plus and delay minus also doesn't works, tried changing also key binds...
Only in the old drivers do these keys work, not in the new ones, so if you are willing to give up the new updates in the new drivers, you can use old drivers (not sure which version) and use the hotkeys...
Nick
PS I am trying to get NVIDIA to enable these hotkeys again, but it doesnt look likely
yes i've nocited, in fact i've taken the cd 1.0 that are from january 2009... but it doesn't seems it works, at least with the samsung 2233rz, tried many times, tried changing also that value to above 30 but i get no difference at all in any way
delay plus and delay minus also doesn't works, tried changing also key binds...