1920 X 1080 @120HZ IN 3d yes!!
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I might be wrong mate, but in my experience the manifestation is as follows: 3D glasses are in sync - perfect 3D Blue ghosting starts and progresses to horrendous proportions Green ghosting joins in and progresses to horrendous proportions Red ghosting joins in and progress to horrendous proportions Somewhere along the line, the 3 colours combine, making an inverted back to front 3D image Down the line a tear slowly progresses up or down the screen depending on how the GPU input frequency compares to the projector frequency. Then everything ends back at square one, and the whole process repeats. If there is no tear, perhaps the projector is using some kind of hack to kill tearing - the buffers are simply going out of phase until a certain point, where they then reset. This would manifest itself as a microstutter as a single frame skips every few minutes... The whole thing might look something like as follows (please correct me if I'm wrong): Blue ghosting starts and progresses to horrendous proportions Green ghosting joins in and progresses to horrendous proportions Red ghosting joins in and progress to combine with the other ghosting colour, making a perfect 3D image, only inverted. Blue ghosting starts and progresses to horrendous proportions Green ghosting joins in and progresses to horrendous proportions Red ghosting joins in and progress to combine with the other ghosting colour, making a perfect 3D image, back to square 1. I personally found the tear somewhat useful, because if I could make it slow to a crawl, i.e. stay in the same-ish place for a few hours, then that would be enough to use the ghosting removal circuit to sync the glasses and game for a bit. I'm sure my description is probably just confusing. I'm just sharing my experience in the hopes that better brains than myself such as yourself and Pauldusler can perhaps find a better solution - I was never able to. Actually, I kinda did - I used the ancient iteration of the 3DV driver's blue line output to the right eye frame to rig a Schmitt triggered optical sensor which would sync the glasses to that frame so the eyes would never swap. It worked in that the frames didn't swap eyes, but of course it did nothing for the progressive ghosting... :( The very best of luck to you, I look forward to your future investigation with great anticipation!
I might be wrong mate, but in my experience the manifestation is as follows:

3D glasses are in sync - perfect 3D
Blue ghosting starts and progresses to horrendous proportions
Green ghosting joins in and progresses to horrendous proportions
Red ghosting joins in and progress to horrendous proportions

Somewhere along the line, the 3 colours combine, making an inverted back to front 3D image

Down the line a tear slowly progresses up or down the screen depending on how the GPU input frequency compares to the projector frequency.

Then everything ends back at square one, and the whole process repeats.





If there is no tear, perhaps the projector is using some kind of hack to kill tearing - the buffers are simply going out of phase until a certain point, where they then reset. This would manifest itself as a microstutter as a single frame skips every few minutes...

The whole thing might look something like as follows (please correct me if I'm wrong):
Blue ghosting starts and progresses to horrendous proportions
Green ghosting joins in and progresses to horrendous proportions
Red ghosting joins in and progress to combine with the other ghosting colour, making a perfect 3D image, only inverted.

Blue ghosting starts and progresses to horrendous proportions
Green ghosting joins in and progresses to horrendous proportions
Red ghosting joins in and progress to combine with the other ghosting colour, making a perfect 3D image, back to square 1.





I personally found the tear somewhat useful, because if I could make it slow to a crawl, i.e. stay in the same-ish place for a few hours, then that would be enough to use the ghosting removal circuit to sync the glasses and game for a bit.

I'm sure my description is probably just confusing. I'm just sharing my experience in the hopes that better brains than myself such as yourself and Pauldusler can perhaps find a better solution - I was never able to.

Actually, I kinda did - I used the ancient iteration of the 3DV driver's blue line output to the right eye frame to rig a Schmitt triggered optical sensor which would sync the glasses to that frame so the eyes would never swap. It worked in that the frames didn't swap eyes, but of course it did nothing for the progressive ghosting... :(

The very best of luck to you, I look forward to your future investigation with great anticipation!

Windows 10 64-bit, Intel 7700K @ 5.1GHz, 16GB 3600MHz CL15 DDR4 RAM, 2x GTX 1080 SLI, Asus Maximus IX Hero, Sound Blaster ZxR, PCIe Quad SSD, Oculus Rift CV1, DLP Link PGD-150 glasses, ViewSonic PJD6531w 3D DLP Projector @ 1280x800 120Hz native / 2560x1600 120Hz DSR 3D Gaming.

Posted 01/07/2019 11:21 PM   
Thanks for that, it's not confusing to me because it describes it perfectly and it's exactly what I'm seeing! I read about your fix on MTBS 3d, very impressive! I might take a step back and give it some thought before I try again. The fact that it works at all, kind of supports my assumption that all you need is a 120hz capability combined with mega fast pixel transition times, i.e. DLP. Chief blurbuster assured me that you also need BFI, even with DLP. Maybe that's the case for a completely perfect experience, but I've established that even without that, the potential is there for my DLP to be an extremely good 3d display. Then as you've previously put it, there are 2 remaining issues. 1. Sync shift. Manifests itself as you say by the images slowly blurring into one then back again. 2. Glasses timing. Manifested by seeing a fixed colour shift in the image. Think I'll post on blurbusters again and ask for help! He did mention using an arduino or raspberry pi to make a custom timing circuit. Need to play this back to him over there to see what's feasible. He understands DLP way better than I ever will and there might be a showstopper that I'm unaware of.
Thanks for that, it's not confusing to me because it describes it perfectly and it's exactly what I'm seeing!
I read about your fix on MTBS 3d, very impressive!

I might take a step back and give it some thought before I try again. The fact that it works at all, kind of supports my assumption that all you need is a 120hz capability combined with mega fast pixel transition times, i.e. DLP. Chief blurbuster assured me that you also need BFI, even with DLP. Maybe that's the case for a completely perfect experience, but I've established that even without that, the potential is there for my DLP to be an extremely good 3d display.

Then as you've previously put it, there are 2 remaining issues.

1. Sync shift. Manifests itself as you say by the images slowly blurring into one then back again.
2. Glasses timing. Manifested by seeing a fixed colour shift in the image.

Think I'll post on blurbusters again and ask for help! He did mention using an arduino or raspberry pi to make a custom timing circuit. Need to play this back to him over there to see what's feasible. He understands DLP way better than I ever will and there might be a showstopper that I'm unaware of.

Gigabyte RTX2080TI Gaming OC, I7-6700k ~ 4.4Ghz, 3x BenQ XL2420T, BenQ TK800, LG 55EG960V (3D OLED), Samsung 850 EVO SSD, Crucial M4 SSD, 3D vision kit, Xpand x104 glasses, Corsair HX1000i, Win 10 pro 64/Win 7 64https://www.3dmark.com/fs/9529310

Posted 01/08/2019 12:04 PM   
[quote="jeanabdelnour"]@metal-o-holic Yeah you are right , i have a completely dark room treated with black velvet everywhere so basically a bat cave. Would the new optoma uhd51A/51ALV work then with 3dvision? i use 3d vision on my OLED c6 55inch via edid fix and its glorious, i bet it ll be 10 times better on a 135inch screen but ofcourse with 1080p res ( tried 720p via 3dtv on my jvc and didnt look good due to low res. [/quote] Can you explain which configs did you use for enabling 120Hz specifically in the LG OLED C6? I've tried messing in CRU but without luck, can't enable more than 74Hz (and even then, 61Hz-74Hz skips frames)...
jeanabdelnour said:@metal-o-holic

Yeah you are right , i have a completely dark room treated with black velvet everywhere so basically a bat cave.
Would the new optoma uhd51A/51ALV work then with 3dvision? i use 3d vision on my OLED c6 55inch via edid fix and its glorious, i bet it ll be 10 times better on a 135inch screen but ofcourse with 1080p res ( tried 720p via 3dtv on my jvc and didnt look good due to low res.



Can you explain which configs did you use for enabling 120Hz specifically in the LG OLED C6?
I've tried messing in CRU but without luck, can't enable more than 74Hz (and even then, 61Hz-74Hz skips frames)...

Posted 02/16/2019 08:56 PM   
[quote="jeanabdelnour"]i use 3d vision on my OLED c6 55inch via edid fix and its glorious[/quote] [quote="marco_silva85"]Can you explain which configs did you use for enabling 120Hz specifically in the LG OLED C6? I've tried messing in CRU but without luck, can't enable more than 74Hz (and even then, 61Hz-74Hz skips frames)...[/quote] I'm pretty sure that he is not using 120Hz or 3D Vision with his C6. He is most likely using Nvidia's Line Interlaced Format, that is only available as an output option in "Optimized for Nvidia GeForce" Which was only officially supported on a few displays, thus requiring an EDID override to hack in support https://www.nvidia.com/object/optimized-for-geforce-3d-overview.html I blame Nvidia for their bad naming practice. They should have generally called their stereoscopic support NvidiaS3D or something and then broke it down from there into 3D Vision, 3D Vision Discover, 3DTV Play and Optimized for Nvidia GeForce. There's also Generic CRT and Generic DLP
jeanabdelnour said:i use 3d vision on my OLED c6 55inch via edid fix and its glorious


marco_silva85 said:Can you explain which configs did you use for enabling 120Hz specifically in the LG OLED C6?
I've tried messing in CRU but without luck, can't enable more than 74Hz (and even then, 61Hz-74Hz skips frames)...


I'm pretty sure that he is not using 120Hz or 3D Vision with his C6. He is most likely using Nvidia's Line Interlaced Format, that is only available as an output option in "Optimized for Nvidia GeForce"

Which was only officially supported on a few displays, thus requiring an EDID override to hack in support

https://www.nvidia.com/object/optimized-for-geforce-3d-overview.html



I blame Nvidia for their bad naming practice. They should have generally called their stereoscopic support NvidiaS3D or something and then broke it down from there into 3D Vision, 3D Vision Discover, 3DTV Play and Optimized for Nvidia GeForce.

There's also Generic CRT and Generic DLP

Posted 02/16/2019 09:53 PM   
  18 / 18    
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