How to tell....... if either your shutter glasses or the LCD is defect
I've got an issue with my 3D kit for a while now and I reached a point where I'm unsure how to proceed.
It seems to me that the shutter glasses aren't perfectly in sync - f.e. when I start the 3D Installer and work myself through the Wizard I reach the point where you see a hexagon and a triangle. Usually you close one of your eyes and only see one of the objects - unfortunately I always see one of those objects very clear but have a little (noticable) shadow of the second object right behind it.
I had the hope that this may had just been a setup issue and that it would work fine in "real" games or when watching movies (but no luck there). So no matter which game I start or which movie I watch - instead of getting a more or less sharp image with depth I get two images, slightly overlapping (with depth).
So..what's the problem here? Glasses not working, Transmitter kaputt or could it even be the LCD?
I've got an issue with my 3D kit for a while now and I reached a point where I'm unsure how to proceed.
It seems to me that the shutter glasses aren't perfectly in sync - f.e. when I start the 3D Installer and work myself through the Wizard I reach the point where you see a hexagon and a triangle. Usually you close one of your eyes and only see one of the objects - unfortunately I always see one of those objects very clear but have a little (noticable) shadow of the second object right behind it.
I had the hope that this may had just been a setup issue and that it would work fine in "real" games or when watching movies (but no luck there). So no matter which game I start or which movie I watch - instead of getting a more or less sharp image with depth I get two images, slightly overlapping (with depth).
So..what's the problem here? Glasses not working, Transmitter kaputt or could it even be the LCD?
Crosstalk (a.k.a. ghosting) is hard to diagnose. Older monitors had pretty serious problems with it but they have been getting better over the years. You can also get it, as you guessed, by having issues with the glasses or the emitter. Figuring out which is having the problem is a major pain.
What kind of monitor is this? Is it a model that's a couple of years old or a brand new model? Are your glasses fully charged? Have you tried changing the "IR environment" setting? Could your PC be busy doing something else (so it can't send signals down the USB port in a timely manner)? Are you plugged into a USB 2 port or better?
Crosstalk (a.k.a. ghosting) is hard to diagnose. Older monitors had pretty serious problems with it but they have been getting better over the years. You can also get it, as you guessed, by having issues with the glasses or the emitter. Figuring out which is having the problem is a major pain.
What kind of monitor is this? Is it a model that's a couple of years old or a brand new model? Are your glasses fully charged? Have you tried changing the "IR environment" setting? Could your PC be busy doing something else (so it can't send signals down the USB port in a timely manner)? Are you plugged into a USB 2 port or better?
Yeah..ghosting can be a pain indeed; always had a little bit but nothing like this. At least I never had any ghosting in the setup wizard until now.
The monitor is little over one year old - the Acer G245HQ.
For the record, so far I tried the following things:
- switching to another USB port (USB2/USB3)
- unplugging all other non-vital USB components
- switching the frequency down to 100 or 110Mhz
- trying out all environment settings in the wizard
- complete reinstall of Windows (it was due anyway :) )
The glasses have been fully charged - also tried it with the USB cable plugged into the glasses.
As for the busy PC: Hadn't thought about that yet, thanks, but all background tasks currently running combined, I got roughly 2% CPU power in use (20% of physical memory being used) so I don't think that's it.
Yeah..ghosting can be a pain indeed; always had a little bit but nothing like this. At least I never had any ghosting in the setup wizard until now.
The monitor is little over one year old - the Acer G245HQ.
For the record, so far I tried the following things:
- switching to another USB port (USB2/USB3)
- unplugging all other non-vital USB components
- switching the frequency down to 100 or 110Mhz
- trying out all environment settings in the wizard
- complete reinstall of Windows (it was due anyway :) )
The glasses have been fully charged - also tried it with the USB cable plugged into the glasses.
As for the busy PC: Hadn't thought about that yet, thanks, but all background tasks currently running combined, I got roughly 2% CPU power in use (20% of physical memory being used) so I don't think that's it.
Can you trace the event back to a specific upgrade or hardware change? It sounds like you covered it on the OS side of things, but was there anything that triggered this? Have you tried reverting to older drivers? Also what's the rest of your hardware look like? SLI? If so try to disable SLI and see if problem persists. Sounds like it could be any one of the 3 major 3D Vision components, glasses, monitor, usb emitter unfortunately you can't really test any of them to be sure unless you have another set to check against.
Can you trace the event back to a specific upgrade or hardware change? It sounds like you covered it on the OS side of things, but was there anything that triggered this? Have you tried reverting to older drivers? Also what's the rest of your hardware look like? SLI? If so try to disable SLI and see if problem persists. Sounds like it could be any one of the 3 major 3D Vision components, glasses, monitor, usb emitter unfortunately you can't really test any of them to be sure unless you have another set to check against.
Aye, that's exactly my problem - don't have anyone nearby who's using 3D Vision. As for the hardware change: It basically didn't change since I got the 3D kit - only big exception is the LCD. A few weeks ago I had to to send it in - they swapped out the motherboard (still the same panel though). But I am reluctant to send it in again - even more since I am not sure if the error is indeed hardwarebased or just a bad circumstancial mishap (plus the LCD was running fine for a while after I got it back).
Aye, that's exactly my problem - don't have anyone nearby who's using 3D Vision. As for the hardware change: It basically didn't change since I got the 3D kit - only big exception is the LCD. A few weeks ago I had to to send it in - they swapped out the motherboard (still the same panel though). But I am reluctant to send it in again - even more since I am not sure if the error is indeed hardwarebased or just a bad circumstancial mishap (plus the LCD was running fine for a while after I got it back).
I gotta admit..I feel a little embarassed to admit it but after pestering you guys on the forums and after getting two very fast replies I at least own you guys the courtesy of admiring my stupidity.
I literally spent weeks (not at a time but on and off again) to find the curse that has befallen my 3D kit. If you read through the posts you'll find a list of all the (unnecessary) stuff that I did.
Turns out my LCD indeed has an error - also turns out I was stupid enough not to recognize it sooner.
Like most of you I have fiddled with the settings back when I got it to get the optimal 3D-quality - adjusting contrast, colors and so on. I adjusted those settings again when I got it back from the last repair (hey, I remembered that at least). Turns out now the LCD looses my custom settings everytime I turn it off.
Whenever I turn it on I get the standard setting with very high contrast and brightness (which really is deadly for 3D). Turned it down to my settings again and voilá: Flawless 3D once more (until i turn it off).
So...this would be the point where you all can feel free to laugh at me - think I prolly deserved it.
But still..thanks for the help and the suggestions.
I gotta admit..I feel a little embarassed to admit it but after pestering you guys on the forums and after getting two very fast replies I at least own you guys the courtesy of admiring my stupidity.
I literally spent weeks (not at a time but on and off again) to find the curse that has befallen my 3D kit. If you read through the posts you'll find a list of all the (unnecessary) stuff that I did.
Turns out my LCD indeed has an error - also turns out I was stupid enough not to recognize it sooner.
Like most of you I have fiddled with the settings back when I got it to get the optimal 3D-quality - adjusting contrast, colors and so on. I adjusted those settings again when I got it back from the last repair (hey, I remembered that at least). Turns out now the LCD looses my custom settings everytime I turn it off.
Whenever I turn it on I get the standard setting with very high contrast and brightness (which really is deadly for 3D). Turned it down to my settings again and voilá: Flawless 3D once more (until i turn it off).
So...this would be the point where you all can feel free to laugh at me - think I prolly deserved it.
But still..thanks for the help and the suggestions.
Good of you to post this back, its these little tidbits that could really save a guy some frustration. Ill remember this one.
I had an issue with 3dtv play on my samsung 3d tv. When ever i used the 3d test app (spinning nvidia logo) in NVCP it would look like complete crap, really blurry. Tryed for days to clean it up. Turns out that the 2d-3d conversion was the problems...sort of. In my zest to get better popout and depth i move the slider bars to max in the tv 3d settings. This had a drastic effect when pushing 3dtv play software to the tv ( the tv and nvidia were fighting to control depth and convergence) causing major fuzzy and crosstalk. By returning the tv 3d settings to factory default it instantly cleared up the nvidia 3d test app in the nvcp. Not once did i come across this while searching the web. So once again that little update could be gold to someone else.
Good of you to post this back, its these little tidbits that could really save a guy some frustration. Ill remember this one.
I had an issue with 3dtv play on my samsung 3d tv. When ever i used the 3d test app (spinning nvidia logo) in NVCP it would look like complete crap, really blurry. Tryed for days to clean it up. Turns out that the 2d-3d conversion was the problems...sort of. In my zest to get better popout and depth i move the slider bars to max in the tv 3d settings. This had a drastic effect when pushing 3dtv play software to the tv ( the tv and nvidia were fighting to control depth and convergence) causing major fuzzy and crosstalk. By returning the tv 3d settings to factory default it instantly cleared up the nvidia 3d test app in the nvcp. Not once did i come across this while searching the web. So once again that little update could be gold to someone else.
It seems to me that the shutter glasses aren't perfectly in sync - f.e. when I start the 3D Installer and work myself through the Wizard I reach the point where you see a hexagon and a triangle. Usually you close one of your eyes and only see one of the objects - unfortunately I always see one of those objects very clear but have a little (noticable) shadow of the second object right behind it.
I had the hope that this may had just been a setup issue and that it would work fine in "real" games or when watching movies (but no luck there). So no matter which game I start or which movie I watch - instead of getting a more or less sharp image with depth I get two images, slightly overlapping (with depth).
So..what's the problem here? Glasses not working, Transmitter kaputt or could it even be the LCD?
It seems to me that the shutter glasses aren't perfectly in sync - f.e. when I start the 3D Installer and work myself through the Wizard I reach the point where you see a hexagon and a triangle. Usually you close one of your eyes and only see one of the objects - unfortunately I always see one of those objects very clear but have a little (noticable) shadow of the second object right behind it.
I had the hope that this may had just been a setup issue and that it would work fine in "real" games or when watching movies (but no luck there). So no matter which game I start or which movie I watch - instead of getting a more or less sharp image with depth I get two images, slightly overlapping (with depth).
So..what's the problem here? Glasses not working, Transmitter kaputt or could it even be the LCD?
What kind of monitor is this? Is it a model that's a couple of years old or a brand new model? Are your glasses fully charged? Have you tried changing the "IR environment" setting? Could your PC be busy doing something else (so it can't send signals down the USB port in a timely manner)? Are you plugged into a USB 2 port or better?
What kind of monitor is this? Is it a model that's a couple of years old or a brand new model? Are your glasses fully charged? Have you tried changing the "IR environment" setting? Could your PC be busy doing something else (so it can't send signals down the USB port in a timely manner)? Are you plugged into a USB 2 port or better?
The monitor is little over one year old - the Acer G245HQ.
For the record, so far I tried the following things:
- switching to another USB port (USB2/USB3)
- unplugging all other non-vital USB components
- switching the frequency down to 100 or 110Mhz
- trying out all environment settings in the wizard
- complete reinstall of Windows (it was due anyway :) )
The glasses have been fully charged - also tried it with the USB cable plugged into the glasses.
As for the busy PC: Hadn't thought about that yet, thanks, but all background tasks currently running combined, I got roughly 2% CPU power in use (20% of physical memory being used) so I don't think that's it.
The monitor is little over one year old - the Acer G245HQ.
For the record, so far I tried the following things:
- switching to another USB port (USB2/USB3)
- unplugging all other non-vital USB components
- switching the frequency down to 100 or 110Mhz
- trying out all environment settings in the wizard
- complete reinstall of Windows (it was due anyway :) )
The glasses have been fully charged - also tried it with the USB cable plugged into the glasses.
As for the busy PC: Hadn't thought about that yet, thanks, but all background tasks currently running combined, I got roughly 2% CPU power in use (20% of physical memory being used) so I don't think that's it.
-=HeliX=- Mod 3DV Game Fixes
My 3D Vision Games List Ratings
Intel Core i7 5930K @4.5GHz | Gigabyte X99 Gaming 5 | Win10 x64 Pro | Corsair H105
Nvidia GeForce Titan X SLI Hybrid | ROG Swift PG278Q 144Hz + 3D Vision/G-Sync | 32GB Adata DDR4 2666
Intel Samsung 950Pro SSD | Samsung EVO 4x1 RAID 0 |
Yamaha VX-677 A/V Receiver | Polk Audio RM6880 7.1 | LG Blu-Ray
Auzen X-Fi HT HD | Logitech G710/G502/G27 | Corsair Air 540 | EVGA P2-1200W
I literally spent weeks (not at a time but on and off again) to find the curse that has befallen my 3D kit. If you read through the posts you'll find a list of all the (unnecessary) stuff that I did.
Turns out my LCD indeed has an error - also turns out I was stupid enough not to recognize it sooner.
Like most of you I have fiddled with the settings back when I got it to get the optimal 3D-quality - adjusting contrast, colors and so on. I adjusted those settings again when I got it back from the last repair (hey, I remembered that at least). Turns out now the LCD looses my custom settings everytime I turn it off.
Whenever I turn it on I get the standard setting with very high contrast and brightness (which really is deadly for 3D). Turned it down to my settings again and voilá: Flawless 3D once more (until i turn it off).
So...this would be the point where you all can feel free to laugh at me - think I prolly deserved it.
But still..thanks for the help and the suggestions.
I literally spent weeks (not at a time but on and off again) to find the curse that has befallen my 3D kit. If you read through the posts you'll find a list of all the (unnecessary) stuff that I did.
Turns out my LCD indeed has an error - also turns out I was stupid enough not to recognize it sooner.
Like most of you I have fiddled with the settings back when I got it to get the optimal 3D-quality - adjusting contrast, colors and so on. I adjusted those settings again when I got it back from the last repair (hey, I remembered that at least). Turns out now the LCD looses my custom settings everytime I turn it off.
Whenever I turn it on I get the standard setting with very high contrast and brightness (which really is deadly for 3D). Turned it down to my settings again and voilá: Flawless 3D once more (until i turn it off).
So...this would be the point where you all can feel free to laugh at me - think I prolly deserved it.
But still..thanks for the help and the suggestions.
I had an issue with 3dtv play on my samsung 3d tv. When ever i used the 3d test app (spinning nvidia logo) in NVCP it would look like complete crap, really blurry. Tryed for days to clean it up. Turns out that the 2d-3d conversion was the problems...sort of. In my zest to get better popout and depth i move the slider bars to max in the tv 3d settings. This had a drastic effect when pushing 3dtv play software to the tv ( the tv and nvidia were fighting to control depth and convergence) causing major fuzzy and crosstalk. By returning the tv 3d settings to factory default it instantly cleared up the nvidia 3d test app in the nvcp. Not once did i come across this while searching the web. So once again that little update could be gold to someone else.
I had an issue with 3dtv play on my samsung 3d tv. When ever i used the 3d test app (spinning nvidia logo) in NVCP it would look like complete crap, really blurry. Tryed for days to clean it up. Turns out that the 2d-3d conversion was the problems...sort of. In my zest to get better popout and depth i move the slider bars to max in the tv 3d settings. This had a drastic effect when pushing 3dtv play software to the tv ( the tv and nvidia were fighting to control depth and convergence) causing major fuzzy and crosstalk. By returning the tv 3d settings to factory default it instantly cleared up the nvidia 3d test app in the nvcp. Not once did i come across this while searching the web. So once again that little update could be gold to someone else.
Watercool any gpu cheap, AKA- "The Mod"