checkerboard hdmi1.4 fix, part 2 suppressing the red overlay
When doing the .inf substitution to gain access to hdmi1.4 checkerboard under 3D Vision, you will get a red overlay message. This is the software complaining about the lack of a signal present at the emitters sync jack. To suppress this signal, a fake signal must be inserted. I wikipedia "555 timer" and built the 555 based circuit (astable mode) as shown with just 2x caps, 2x resistors, 1x 555 chip, and a small piece of breadboard. Then I ran the output, +5VDC, ground to a 3/32" plug which goes into the round sync jack on the emitter. These are very cheap, common parts available from many sources, I used radioshack for convenience. See links below.
Instructions:
go to http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/555_timer
Refer to astable mode diagram. The values I used are
R1= 560 ohms
R2 = 10000 ohms (10K ohms)
C= .000001 farads (1 micro farad) tantalum (observe polarity, positive side to R2). A ceramic disc cap should work also.
cap going to pin 5 isn't critical, I used .1 micro farad ceramic disc.
You'll also need 0.1 inch spacing piece of breadboard (small) and a way of running signal/+5VDC/ground to tip/ring/sleeve in that order. After constructing your circuit, bring +5VDC and ground to the circuit (Vcc = +5VDC) as shown (astable circuit). I used +5V/grd from a standard 4 pin molex (red/black wire). Run signal/+5VDC/grd to tip/ring/sleeve, in order, to a 3/32" plug and insert in the round sync hole on the nvidia emitter. Be sure to cover/position the emitter so that the ir sync signal generated will not reach your glasses as it will interfere with the desired ir sync coming from your TVs emitter.
The formula I used for astable frequency is shown for reference only, in case you need to sub different values. Use 0.7 for ln(2) You want to get close to 120Hz, and you want R2 to be much greater than R1 to get close to a 50% duty cycle. Don't go more than 20000 ohms on the resistors. So substitute different values if necessary within these guidelines. Also, If you use a polarized Cap, like tantalum or electrolitic, the positive side goes to R2.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/555_timer
http://www.radioshack.com/category/index.jsp?categoryId=2032230 radio shack caps, res., breadboard, analog ICs (LM555 found here)
http://www.radioshack.com/category/index.jsp?categoryId=2032231 3/32" male connector
When doing the .inf substitution to gain access to hdmi1.4 checkerboard under 3D Vision, you will get a red overlay message. This is the software complaining about the lack of a signal present at the emitters sync jack. To suppress this signal, a fake signal must be inserted. I wikipedia "555 timer" and built the 555 based circuit (astable mode) as shown with just 2x caps, 2x resistors, 1x 555 chip, and a small piece of breadboard. Then I ran the output, +5VDC, ground to a 3/32" plug which goes into the round sync jack on the emitter. These are very cheap, common parts available from many sources, I used radioshack for convenience. See links below.
Refer to astable mode diagram. The values I used are
R1= 560 ohms
R2 = 10000 ohms (10K ohms)
C= .000001 farads (1 micro farad) tantalum (observe polarity, positive side to R2). A ceramic disc cap should work also.
cap going to pin 5 isn't critical, I used .1 micro farad ceramic disc.
You'll also need 0.1 inch spacing piece of breadboard (small) and a way of running signal/+5VDC/ground to tip/ring/sleeve in that order. After constructing your circuit, bring +5VDC and ground to the circuit (Vcc = +5VDC) as shown (astable circuit). I used +5V/grd from a standard 4 pin molex (red/black wire). Run signal/+5VDC/grd to tip/ring/sleeve, in order, to a 3/32" plug and insert in the round sync hole on the nvidia emitter. Be sure to cover/position the emitter so that the ir sync signal generated will not reach your glasses as it will interfere with the desired ir sync coming from your TVs emitter.
The formula I used for astable frequency is shown for reference only, in case you need to sub different values. Use 0.7 for ln(2) You want to get close to 120Hz, and you want R2 to be much greater than R1 to get close to a 50% duty cycle. Don't go more than 20000 ohms on the resistors. So substitute different values if necessary within these guidelines. Also, If you use a polarized Cap, like tantalum or electrolitic, the positive side goes to R2.
[quote name='roller11' date='30 January 2011 - 01:39 AM' timestamp='1296351599' post='1185790']
When doing the .inf substitution to gain access to hdmi1.4 checkerboard under 3D Vision, you will get a red overlay message. This is the software complaining about the lack of a signal present at the emitters sync jack. To suppress this signal, a fake signal must be inserted. I wikipedia "555 timer" and built the 555 based circuit (astable mode) as shown with just 2x caps, 2x resistors, 1x 555 chip, and a small piece of breadboard. Then I ran the output, +5VDC, ground to a 3/32" plug which goes into the round sync jack on the emitter. These are very cheap, common parts available from many sources, I used radioshack for convenience. See links below.
Instructions:
go to http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/555_timer
Refer to astable mode diagram. The values I used are
R1= 560 ohms
R2 = 10000 ohms (10K ohms)
C= .000001 farads (1 micro farad) tantalum (observe polarity, positive side to R2). A ceramic disc cap should work also.
cap going to pin 5 isn't critical, I used .1 micro farad ceramic disc.
You'll also need 0.1 inch spacing piece of breadboard (small) and a way of running signal/+5VDC/ground to tip/ring/sleeve in that order. After constructing your circuit, bring +5VDC and ground to the circuit (Vcc = +5VDC) as shown (astable circuit). I used +5V/grd from a standard 4 pin molex (red/black wire). Run signal/+5VDC/grd to tip/ring/sleeve, in order, to a 3/32" plug and insert in the round sync hole on the nvidia emitter. Be sure to cover/position the emitter so that the ir sync signal generated will not reach your glasses as it will interfere with the desired ir sync coming from your TVs emitter.
The formula I used for astable frequency is shown for reference only, in case you need to sub different values. Use 0.7 for ln(2) You want to get close to 120Hz, and you want R2 to be much greater than R1 to get close to a 50% duty cycle. Don't go more than 20000 ohms on the resistors. So substitute different values if necessary within these guidelines. Also, If you use a polarized Cap, like tantalum or electrolitic, the positive side goes to R2.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/555_timer
http://www.radioshack.com/category/index.jsp?categoryId=2032230 radio shack caps, res., breadboard, analog ICs (LM555 found here)
http://www.radioshack.com/category/index.jsp?categoryId=2032231 3/32" male connector
[/quote]
Hopefully, Nvidia will take note of what you have done and provide a software solution for those of us without a background in electronics. Thanks for your effort.
[quote name='roller11' date='30 January 2011 - 01:39 AM' timestamp='1296351599' post='1185790']
When doing the .inf substitution to gain access to hdmi1.4 checkerboard under 3D Vision, you will get a red overlay message. This is the software complaining about the lack of a signal present at the emitters sync jack. To suppress this signal, a fake signal must be inserted. I wikipedia "555 timer" and built the 555 based circuit (astable mode) as shown with just 2x caps, 2x resistors, 1x 555 chip, and a small piece of breadboard. Then I ran the output, +5VDC, ground to a 3/32" plug which goes into the round sync jack on the emitter. These are very cheap, common parts available from many sources, I used radioshack for convenience. See links below.
Refer to astable mode diagram. The values I used are
R1= 560 ohms
R2 = 10000 ohms (10K ohms)
C= .000001 farads (1 micro farad) tantalum (observe polarity, positive side to R2). A ceramic disc cap should work also.
cap going to pin 5 isn't critical, I used .1 micro farad ceramic disc.
You'll also need 0.1 inch spacing piece of breadboard (small) and a way of running signal/+5VDC/ground to tip/ring/sleeve in that order. After constructing your circuit, bring +5VDC and ground to the circuit (Vcc = +5VDC) as shown (astable circuit). I used +5V/grd from a standard 4 pin molex (red/black wire). Run signal/+5VDC/grd to tip/ring/sleeve, in order, to a 3/32" plug and insert in the round sync hole on the nvidia emitter. Be sure to cover/position the emitter so that the ir sync signal generated will not reach your glasses as it will interfere with the desired ir sync coming from your TVs emitter.
The formula I used for astable frequency is shown for reference only, in case you need to sub different values. Use 0.7 for ln(2) You want to get close to 120Hz, and you want R2 to be much greater than R1 to get close to a 50% duty cycle. Don't go more than 20000 ohms on the resistors. So substitute different values if necessary within these guidelines. Also, If you use a polarized Cap, like tantalum or electrolitic, the positive side goes to R2.
Hopefully, Nvidia will take note of what you have done and provide a software solution for those of us without a background in electronics. Thanks for your effort.
[quote name='Flint Eastwood' date='30 January 2011 - 12:25 PM' timestamp='1296383154' post='1185937']
I guess it is possible to use +5VDC and GND from an USB-Connector too?
[/quote]
Of course, I power my frequency generator with an USB connection. I also noticed that the nVidia enitter is not very restrictive regarding the frequency. I initially used a function generator do so some testing and found that the overlay disappears when the frequency of the signal is somewhere above 20Hz. Tested up to 2kHz, which did still work. Since the nVidia emitter is not used to sync the glasses, there is no need to have exactly 60Hz.
I guess it is possible to use +5VDC and GND from an USB-Connector too?
Of course, I power my frequency generator with an USB connection. I also noticed that the nVidia enitter is not very restrictive regarding the frequency. I initially used a function generator do so some testing and found that the overlay disappears when the frequency of the signal is somewhere above 20Hz. Tested up to 2kHz, which did still work. Since the nVidia emitter is not used to sync the glasses, there is no need to have exactly 60Hz.
[quote name='Flint Eastwood' date='30 January 2011 - 03:25 AM' timestamp='1296383154' post='1185937']
Thats a nice and simple example for a frequency-generator - easy to build one.
I guess it is possible to use +5VDC and GND from an USB-Connector too?
[/quote]
My post could have been simplified to:
To suppress overlay, build the astable 555 timer circuit shown on wikipedia
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/555_timer
Use component values 560/10K/one microfarad for R1/R2/C. VCC=+5V. 3/32 inch connector mapping is signal/+5VDC/gnd to tip/ring/sleeve.
All parts available at radioshack for about $10 USD.
THere is still the problem of the left/right images being reversed everytime 3D checkerboard is manually enabled through the Samsung menu. This can be corrected with Samsung's 'picture correction' option, but it's inconvenient because the fix resets itself when 2D is choosen.
This reversal does not happen without the .inf hack, any ideas?
Thats a nice and simple example for a frequency-generator - easy to build one.
I guess it is possible to use +5VDC and GND from an USB-Connector too?
My post could have been simplified to:
To suppress overlay, build the astable 555 timer circuit shown on wikipedia
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/555_timer
Use component values 560/10K/one microfarad for R1/R2/C. VCC=+5V. 3/32 inch connector mapping is signal/+5VDC/gnd to tip/ring/sleeve.
All parts available at radioshack for about $10 USD.
THere is still the problem of the left/right images being reversed everytime 3D checkerboard is manually enabled through the Samsung menu. This can be corrected with Samsung's 'picture correction' option, but it's inconvenient because the fix resets itself when 2D is choosen.
This reversal does not happen without the .inf hack, any ideas?
[quote name='roller11' date='30 January 2011 - 04:30 PM' timestamp='1296405005' post='1186057']
My post could have been simplified to:
To suppress overlay, build the astable 555 timer circuit shown on wikipedia
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/555_timer
Use component values 560/10K/one microfarad for R1/R2/C. VCC=+5V. 3/32 inch connector mapping is signal/+5VDC/gnd to tip/ring/sleeve.
All parts available at radioshack for about $10 USD.
THere is still the problem of the left/right images being reversed everytime 3D checkerboard is manually enabled through the Samsung menu. This can be corrected with Samsung's 'picture correction' option, but it's inconvenient because the fix resets itself when 2D is choosen.
This reversal does not happen without the .inf hack, any ideas?
[/quote]
I haven't yet implemented your fix, but I know there is a setup wizard for 3dtv play that asks you to close one eye then the other eye. I assume this is what tells the system which eye is which initially. Just a thought, but maybe a setup wizard needs to be run again?
Once again, good job. Even if you have to use the samsung eye switch gizmo, it seems to me a small price to pay for better quality!
[quote name='roller11' date='30 January 2011 - 04:30 PM' timestamp='1296405005' post='1186057']
My post could have been simplified to:
To suppress overlay, build the astable 555 timer circuit shown on wikipedia
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/555_timer
Use component values 560/10K/one microfarad for R1/R2/C. VCC=+5V. 3/32 inch connector mapping is signal/+5VDC/gnd to tip/ring/sleeve.
All parts available at radioshack for about $10 USD.
THere is still the problem of the left/right images being reversed everytime 3D checkerboard is manually enabled through the Samsung menu. This can be corrected with Samsung's 'picture correction' option, but it's inconvenient because the fix resets itself when 2D is choosen.
This reversal does not happen without the .inf hack, any ideas?
I haven't yet implemented your fix, but I know there is a setup wizard for 3dtv play that asks you to close one eye then the other eye. I assume this is what tells the system which eye is which initially. Just a thought, but maybe a setup wizard needs to be run again?
Once again, good job. Even if you have to use the samsung eye switch gizmo, it seems to me a small price to pay for better quality!
[quote name='churnobull' date='30 January 2011 - 10:41 AM' timestamp='1296409302' post='1186090']
I haven't yet implemented your fix, but I know there is a setup wizard for 3dtv play that asks you to close one eye then the other eye. I assume this is what tells the system which eye is which initially. Just a thought, but maybe a setup wizard needs to be run again?[/quote]I've run setup time and again, same result. I even tried a different setup that works with CD1.38, same result.
[quote]Once again, good job. Even if you have to use the samsung eye switch gizmo, it seems to me a small price to pay for better quality!
[/quote]
Thanks! Totally agree, switching manually eye order everytime is worth avoiding 720P.
If you need help with your circuit, let me know.
[quote name='churnobull' date='30 January 2011 - 10:41 AM' timestamp='1296409302' post='1186090']
I haven't yet implemented your fix, but I know there is a setup wizard for 3dtv play that asks you to close one eye then the other eye. I assume this is what tells the system which eye is which initially. Just a thought, but maybe a setup wizard needs to be run again?I've run setup time and again, same result. I even tried a different setup that works with CD1.38, same result.
Once again, good job. Even if you have to use the samsung eye switch gizmo, it seems to me a small price to pay for better quality!
Thanks! Totally agree, switching manually eye order everytime is worth avoiding 720P.
Instructions:
go to http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/555_timer
Refer to astable mode diagram. The values I used are
R1= 560 ohms
R2 = 10000 ohms (10K ohms)
C= .000001 farads (1 micro farad) tantalum (observe polarity, positive side to R2). A ceramic disc cap should work also.
cap going to pin 5 isn't critical, I used .1 micro farad ceramic disc.
You'll also need 0.1 inch spacing piece of breadboard (small) and a way of running signal/+5VDC/ground to tip/ring/sleeve in that order. After constructing your circuit, bring +5VDC and ground to the circuit (Vcc = +5VDC) as shown (astable circuit). I used +5V/grd from a standard 4 pin molex (red/black wire). Run signal/+5VDC/grd to tip/ring/sleeve, in order, to a 3/32" plug and insert in the round sync hole on the nvidia emitter. Be sure to cover/position the emitter so that the ir sync signal generated will not reach your glasses as it will interfere with the desired ir sync coming from your TVs emitter.
The formula I used for astable frequency is shown for reference only, in case you need to sub different values. Use 0.7 for ln(2) You want to get close to 120Hz, and you want R2 to be much greater than R1 to get close to a 50% duty cycle. Don't go more than 20000 ohms on the resistors. So substitute different values if necessary within these guidelines. Also, If you use a polarized Cap, like tantalum or electrolitic, the positive side goes to R2.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/555_timer
http://www.radioshack.com/category/index.jsp?categoryId=2032230 radio shack caps, res., breadboard, analog ICs (LM555 found here)
http://www.radioshack.com/category/index.jsp?categoryId=2032231 3/32" male connector
Instructions:
go to http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/555_timer
Refer to astable mode diagram. The values I used are
R1= 560 ohms
R2 = 10000 ohms (10K ohms)
C= .000001 farads (1 micro farad) tantalum (observe polarity, positive side to R2). A ceramic disc cap should work also.
cap going to pin 5 isn't critical, I used .1 micro farad ceramic disc.
You'll also need 0.1 inch spacing piece of breadboard (small) and a way of running signal/+5VDC/ground to tip/ring/sleeve in that order. After constructing your circuit, bring +5VDC and ground to the circuit (Vcc = +5VDC) as shown (astable circuit). I used +5V/grd from a standard 4 pin molex (red/black wire). Run signal/+5VDC/grd to tip/ring/sleeve, in order, to a 3/32" plug and insert in the round sync hole on the nvidia emitter. Be sure to cover/position the emitter so that the ir sync signal generated will not reach your glasses as it will interfere with the desired ir sync coming from your TVs emitter.
The formula I used for astable frequency is shown for reference only, in case you need to sub different values. Use 0.7 for ln(2) You want to get close to 120Hz, and you want R2 to be much greater than R1 to get close to a 50% duty cycle. Don't go more than 20000 ohms on the resistors. So substitute different values if necessary within these guidelines. Also, If you use a polarized Cap, like tantalum or electrolitic, the positive side goes to R2.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/555_timer
http://www.radioshack.com/category/index.jsp?categoryId=2032230 radio shack caps, res., breadboard, analog ICs (LM555 found here)
http://www.radioshack.com/category/index.jsp?categoryId=2032231 3/32" male connector
When doing the .inf substitution to gain access to hdmi1.4 checkerboard under 3D Vision, you will get a red overlay message. This is the software complaining about the lack of a signal present at the emitters sync jack. To suppress this signal, a fake signal must be inserted. I wikipedia "555 timer" and built the 555 based circuit (astable mode) as shown with just 2x caps, 2x resistors, 1x 555 chip, and a small piece of breadboard. Then I ran the output, +5VDC, ground to a 3/32" plug which goes into the round sync jack on the emitter. These are very cheap, common parts available from many sources, I used radioshack for convenience. See links below.
Instructions:
go to http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/555_timer
Refer to astable mode diagram. The values I used are
R1= 560 ohms
R2 = 10000 ohms (10K ohms)
C= .000001 farads (1 micro farad) tantalum (observe polarity, positive side to R2). A ceramic disc cap should work also.
cap going to pin 5 isn't critical, I used .1 micro farad ceramic disc.
You'll also need 0.1 inch spacing piece of breadboard (small) and a way of running signal/+5VDC/ground to tip/ring/sleeve in that order. After constructing your circuit, bring +5VDC and ground to the circuit (Vcc = +5VDC) as shown (astable circuit). I used +5V/grd from a standard 4 pin molex (red/black wire). Run signal/+5VDC/grd to tip/ring/sleeve, in order, to a 3/32" plug and insert in the round sync hole on the nvidia emitter. Be sure to cover/position the emitter so that the ir sync signal generated will not reach your glasses as it will interfere with the desired ir sync coming from your TVs emitter.
The formula I used for astable frequency is shown for reference only, in case you need to sub different values. Use 0.7 for ln(2) You want to get close to 120Hz, and you want R2 to be much greater than R1 to get close to a 50% duty cycle. Don't go more than 20000 ohms on the resistors. So substitute different values if necessary within these guidelines. Also, If you use a polarized Cap, like tantalum or electrolitic, the positive side goes to R2.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/555_timer
http://www.radioshack.com/category/index.jsp?categoryId=2032230 radio shack caps, res., breadboard, analog ICs (LM555 found here)
http://www.radioshack.com/category/index.jsp?categoryId=2032231 3/32" male connector
[/quote]
Hopefully, Nvidia will take note of what you have done and provide a software solution for those of us without a background in electronics. Thanks for your effort.
When doing the .inf substitution to gain access to hdmi1.4 checkerboard under 3D Vision, you will get a red overlay message. This is the software complaining about the lack of a signal present at the emitters sync jack. To suppress this signal, a fake signal must be inserted. I wikipedia "555 timer" and built the 555 based circuit (astable mode) as shown with just 2x caps, 2x resistors, 1x 555 chip, and a small piece of breadboard. Then I ran the output, +5VDC, ground to a 3/32" plug which goes into the round sync jack on the emitter. These are very cheap, common parts available from many sources, I used radioshack for convenience. See links below.
Instructions:
go to http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/555_timer
Refer to astable mode diagram. The values I used are
R1= 560 ohms
R2 = 10000 ohms (10K ohms)
C= .000001 farads (1 micro farad) tantalum (observe polarity, positive side to R2). A ceramic disc cap should work also.
cap going to pin 5 isn't critical, I used .1 micro farad ceramic disc.
You'll also need 0.1 inch spacing piece of breadboard (small) and a way of running signal/+5VDC/ground to tip/ring/sleeve in that order. After constructing your circuit, bring +5VDC and ground to the circuit (Vcc = +5VDC) as shown (astable circuit). I used +5V/grd from a standard 4 pin molex (red/black wire). Run signal/+5VDC/grd to tip/ring/sleeve, in order, to a 3/32" plug and insert in the round sync hole on the nvidia emitter. Be sure to cover/position the emitter so that the ir sync signal generated will not reach your glasses as it will interfere with the desired ir sync coming from your TVs emitter.
The formula I used for astable frequency is shown for reference only, in case you need to sub different values. Use 0.7 for ln(2) You want to get close to 120Hz, and you want R2 to be much greater than R1 to get close to a 50% duty cycle. Don't go more than 20000 ohms on the resistors. So substitute different values if necessary within these guidelines. Also, If you use a polarized Cap, like tantalum or electrolitic, the positive side goes to R2.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/555_timer
http://www.radioshack.com/category/index.jsp?categoryId=2032230 radio shack caps, res., breadboard, analog ICs (LM555 found here)
http://www.radioshack.com/category/index.jsp?categoryId=2032231 3/32" male connector
Hopefully, Nvidia will take note of what you have done and provide a software solution for those of us without a background in electronics. Thanks for your effort.
I guess it is possible to use +5VDC and GND from an USB-Connector too?
I guess it is possible to use +5VDC and GND from an USB-Connector too?
Desktop-PC
i7 870 @ 3.8GHz + MSI GTX1070 Gaming X + 16GB RAM + Win10 64Bit Home + AW2310+3D-Vision
I guess it is possible to use +5VDC and GND from an USB-Connector too?
[/quote]
Of course, I power my frequency generator with an USB connection. I also noticed that the nVidia enitter is not very restrictive regarding the frequency. I initially used a function generator do so some testing and found that the overlay disappears when the frequency of the signal is somewhere above 20Hz. Tested up to 2kHz, which did still work. Since the nVidia emitter is not used to sync the glasses, there is no need to have exactly 60Hz.
I guess it is possible to use +5VDC and GND from an USB-Connector too?
Of course, I power my frequency generator with an USB connection. I also noticed that the nVidia enitter is not very restrictive regarding the frequency. I initially used a function generator do so some testing and found that the overlay disappears when the frequency of the signal is somewhere above 20Hz. Tested up to 2kHz, which did still work. Since the nVidia emitter is not used to sync the glasses, there is no need to have exactly 60Hz.
Thats a nice and simple example for a frequency-generator - easy to build one.
I guess it is possible to use +5VDC and GND from an USB-Connector too?
[/quote]
My post could have been simplified to:
To suppress overlay, build the astable 555 timer circuit shown on wikipedia
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/555_timer
Use component values 560/10K/one microfarad for R1/R2/C. VCC=+5V. 3/32 inch connector mapping is signal/+5VDC/gnd to tip/ring/sleeve.
All parts available at radioshack for about $10 USD.
THere is still the problem of the left/right images being reversed everytime 3D checkerboard is manually enabled through the Samsung menu. This can be corrected with Samsung's 'picture correction' option, but it's inconvenient because the fix resets itself when 2D is choosen.
This reversal does not happen without the .inf hack, any ideas?
Thats a nice and simple example for a frequency-generator - easy to build one.
I guess it is possible to use +5VDC and GND from an USB-Connector too?
My post could have been simplified to:
To suppress overlay, build the astable 555 timer circuit shown on wikipedia
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/555_timer
Use component values 560/10K/one microfarad for R1/R2/C. VCC=+5V. 3/32 inch connector mapping is signal/+5VDC/gnd to tip/ring/sleeve.
All parts available at radioshack for about $10 USD.
THere is still the problem of the left/right images being reversed everytime 3D checkerboard is manually enabled through the Samsung menu. This can be corrected with Samsung's 'picture correction' option, but it's inconvenient because the fix resets itself when 2D is choosen.
This reversal does not happen without the .inf hack, any ideas?
My post could have been simplified to:
To suppress overlay, build the astable 555 timer circuit shown on wikipedia
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/555_timer
Use component values 560/10K/one microfarad for R1/R2/C. VCC=+5V. 3/32 inch connector mapping is signal/+5VDC/gnd to tip/ring/sleeve.
All parts available at radioshack for about $10 USD.
THere is still the problem of the left/right images being reversed everytime 3D checkerboard is manually enabled through the Samsung menu. This can be corrected with Samsung's 'picture correction' option, but it's inconvenient because the fix resets itself when 2D is choosen.
This reversal does not happen without the .inf hack, any ideas?
[/quote]
I haven't yet implemented your fix, but I know there is a setup wizard for 3dtv play that asks you to close one eye then the other eye. I assume this is what tells the system which eye is which initially. Just a thought, but maybe a setup wizard needs to be run again?
Once again, good job. Even if you have to use the samsung eye switch gizmo, it seems to me a small price to pay for better quality!
My post could have been simplified to:
To suppress overlay, build the astable 555 timer circuit shown on wikipedia
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/555_timer
Use component values 560/10K/one microfarad for R1/R2/C. VCC=+5V. 3/32 inch connector mapping is signal/+5VDC/gnd to tip/ring/sleeve.
All parts available at radioshack for about $10 USD.
THere is still the problem of the left/right images being reversed everytime 3D checkerboard is manually enabled through the Samsung menu. This can be corrected with Samsung's 'picture correction' option, but it's inconvenient because the fix resets itself when 2D is choosen.
This reversal does not happen without the .inf hack, any ideas?
I haven't yet implemented your fix, but I know there is a setup wizard for 3dtv play that asks you to close one eye then the other eye. I assume this is what tells the system which eye is which initially. Just a thought, but maybe a setup wizard needs to be run again?
Once again, good job. Even if you have to use the samsung eye switch gizmo, it seems to me a small price to pay for better quality!
I haven't yet implemented your fix, but I know there is a setup wizard for 3dtv play that asks you to close one eye then the other eye. I assume this is what tells the system which eye is which initially. Just a thought, but maybe a setup wizard needs to be run again?[/quote]I've run setup time and again, same result. I even tried a different setup that works with CD1.38, same result.
[quote]Once again, good job. Even if you have to use the samsung eye switch gizmo, it seems to me a small price to pay for better quality!
[/quote]
Thanks! Totally agree, switching manually eye order everytime is worth avoiding 720P.
If you need help with your circuit, let me know.
I haven't yet implemented your fix, but I know there is a setup wizard for 3dtv play that asks you to close one eye then the other eye. I assume this is what tells the system which eye is which initially. Just a thought, but maybe a setup wizard needs to be run again?I've run setup time and again, same result. I even tried a different setup that works with CD1.38, same result.
Thanks! Totally agree, switching manually eye order everytime is worth avoiding 720P.
If you need help with your circuit, let me know.
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