Hi,
I am buying an acer H5360 and I am on a tight budget on the screen. I am going to buy an 82" 16:9 pull down matt white screen - with a gain of 1.0. I really need to know if this is adequate for 3d gaming (brightness) I have a bit of ambient lighting in my room - just enough to read in with curtains closed. Please I need a quick reply because I am buying today or tommorow.
Thanks
Corpz
I am buying an acer H5360 and I am on a tight budget on the screen. I am going to buy an 82" 16:9 pull down matt white screen - with a gain of 1.0. I really need to know if this is adequate for 3d gaming (brightness) I have a bit of ambient lighting in my room - just enough to read in with curtains closed. Please I need a quick reply because I am buying today or tommorow.
Those can't be tensioned perfectly and it'll wrinkle and the paint goin to look bad. Better buy more expensive paint, and apply it onto blackout cloth which is tensioned by 4 sides like this:
Those can't be tensioned perfectly and it'll wrinkle and the paint goin to look bad. Better buy more expensive paint, and apply it onto blackout cloth which is tensioned by 4 sides like this:
You dont need a screen at all for 3d vision to work with shutterglasses. You only need a silverscreen if you are using dual projectors and are trying to maintain some polarization by polarizing each projector differently. If you are doing 3d Vision with the 3d shutterglasses, dont bother with a screen until you try a white wall first. If its not good enough, then look into screens. They just will help by being more reflective, its not critical, especially if you are on a budget. Its just a normal projector, the shuttering doesnt change that.
You dont need a screen at all for 3d vision to work with shutterglasses. You only need a silverscreen if you are using dual projectors and are trying to maintain some polarization by polarizing each projector differently. If you are doing 3d Vision with the 3d shutterglasses, dont bother with a screen until you try a white wall first. If its not good enough, then look into screens. They just will help by being more reflective, its not critical, especially if you are on a budget. Its just a normal projector, the shuttering doesnt change that.
The acer H5360 with nvidia 3D vision glasses work on any type of screen.
You can use any screen surface material and coating technology you want, white matte, angular reflective, retro-reflective, grey screen, black screen, semi-transparent, high gain, low gain, anything works.
Just remember to do your homework and do the math to know how bright the picture will be and adjust your screen size and material accordingly.
The acer H5360 with nvidia 3D vision glasses work on any type of screen.
You can use any screen surface material and coating technology you want, white matte, angular reflective, retro-reflective, grey screen, black screen, semi-transparent, high gain, low gain, anything works.
Just remember to do your homework and do the math to know how bright the picture will be and adjust your screen size and material accordingly.
Passive 3D forever
110" DIY dual-projection system
2x Epson EH-TW3500 (1080p) + Linear Polarizers (SPAR)
XtremScreen Daylight 2.0
VNS Geobox501 signal converter
[quote name='scstudios' post='1066628' date='Jun 2 2010, 05:00 PM']You dont need a screen at all for 3d vision to work with shutterglasses. You only need a silverscreen if you are using dual projectors and are trying to maintain some polarization by polarizing each projector differently. If you are doing 3d Vision with the 3d shutterglasses, dont bother with a screen until you try a white wall first. If its not good enough, then look into screens. They just will help by being more reflective, its not critical, especially if you are on a budget. Its just a normal projector, the shuttering doesnt change that.[/quote]
it does, its 2100 lumens in 2d / 60hz, and 750 (!!) in 3d mode. :unsure:
Now you get your glasses on , your starring at 750*0.38. /confused.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':confused:' />
[quote name='scstudios' post='1066628' date='Jun 2 2010, 05:00 PM']You dont need a screen at all for 3d vision to work with shutterglasses. You only need a silverscreen if you are using dual projectors and are trying to maintain some polarization by polarizing each projector differently. If you are doing 3d Vision with the 3d shutterglasses, dont bother with a screen until you try a white wall first. If its not good enough, then look into screens. They just will help by being more reflective, its not critical, especially if you are on a budget. Its just a normal projector, the shuttering doesnt change that.
it does, its 2100 lumens in 2d / 60hz, and 750 (!!) in 3d mode. :unsure:
Now you get your glasses on , your starring at 750*0.38. /confused.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':confused:' />
Have you seen the image of the acer? Numbers don't say a lot, i don't have any problems with the brightness. I'm projecting on a white wall btw. The image is as almost the same as the brightness as my Samsung led tv.
You sound as if there is a problem with the brightness, but i can tell you there is nothing to worry about. Even after 1500 lamp hours.
Have you seen the image of the acer? Numbers don't say a lot, i don't have any problems with the brightness. I'm projecting on a white wall btw. The image is as almost the same as the brightness as my Samsung led tv.
You sound as if there is a problem with the brightness, but i can tell you there is nothing to worry about. Even after 1500 lamp hours.
Less than 200 lumen can still look good.... on a small screen. After all, 3D cinemas are rated at an astoundishingly low minimum of 5 foot lambert (where in 2D it's around 12 foot lambert)
@tritosine : when using single DLP projectors at 120Hz, the transmission rate through the glasses it at best 0.25 (0.50 duty cycle and 0.50 due to the polarizers in the shutter glasses)
I didn't find a measure of the actual value through the nvidia glasses but it falls somewhere between 0.15 and 0.20.
Less than 200 lumen can still look good.... on a small screen. After all, 3D cinemas are rated at an astoundishingly low minimum of 5 foot lambert (where in 2D it's around 12 foot lambert)
@tritosine : when using single DLP projectors at 120Hz, the transmission rate through the glasses it at best 0.25 (0.50 duty cycle and 0.50 due to the polarizers in the shutter glasses)
I didn't find a measure of the actual value through the nvidia glasses but it falls somewhere between 0.15 and 0.20.
Passive 3D forever
110" DIY dual-projection system
2x Epson EH-TW3500 (1080p) + Linear Polarizers (SPAR)
XtremScreen Daylight 2.0
VNS Geobox501 signal converter
I have a 123" Screen Goo White painted screen (was designed for CRT which I used to have). It may be me, but it's bright enough to do anything I want.
Yes the brightness goes down when it is in 120hz and 3D mode, but I find it bright enough. I also have a light controlled room - ie; can be pitched dark if I want.
A small trick, make a black matte non-reflective frame around your screen. It gives a nice definition and definitely will "look brighter" even if it is not.
I have a 123" Screen Goo White painted screen (was designed for CRT which I used to have). It may be me, but it's bright enough to do anything I want.
Yes the brightness goes down when it is in 120hz and 3D mode, but I find it bright enough. I also have a light controlled room - ie; can be pitched dark if I want.
A small trick, make a black matte non-reflective frame around your screen. It gives a nice definition and definitely will "look brighter" even if it is not.
[quote name='sdumas' post='1066996' date='Jun 3 2010, 01:00 AM']I have a 123" Screen Goo White painted screen (was designed for CRT which I used to have). It may be me, but it's bright enough to do anything I want.
Yes the brightness goes down when it is in 120hz and 3D mode, but I find it bright enough. I also have a light controlled room - ie; can be pitched dark if I want.
A small trick, make a black matte non-reflective frame around your screen. It gives a nice definition and definitely will "look brighter" even if it is not.[/quote]
No. This is just way too much loss. You can read the DepthQ PJ has no brightness loss either. IDK why you guys handicap yourselves. Bart even has a second PJ , It could be stacked for 2x brightness Im goin to try that too.
Maybe the DLP micromirrors dont have enough time to obtain enough light. Sadly DepthQ wont respond whether or how they managed to stay constant.
[quote name='sdumas' post='1066996' date='Jun 3 2010, 01:00 AM']I have a 123" Screen Goo White painted screen (was designed for CRT which I used to have). It may be me, but it's bright enough to do anything I want.
Yes the brightness goes down when it is in 120hz and 3D mode, but I find it bright enough. I also have a light controlled room - ie; can be pitched dark if I want.
A small trick, make a black matte non-reflective frame around your screen. It gives a nice definition and definitely will "look brighter" even if it is not.
No. This is just way too much loss. You can read the DepthQ PJ has no brightness loss either. IDK why you guys handicap yourselves. Bart even has a second PJ , It could be stacked for 2x brightness Im goin to try that too.
Maybe the DLP micromirrors dont have enough time to obtain enough light. Sadly DepthQ wont respond whether or how they managed to stay constant.
Thanks alot for all the replies - I have gone ahead and bought the projector with an optoma 84" 16:9 matt white screen which I got cheaply, and I will spray if it is too dark as tritosine suggested
Thanks alot for all the replies - I have gone ahead and bought the projector with an optoma 84" 16:9 matt white screen which I got cheaply, and I will spray if it is too dark as tritosine suggested
I am buying an acer H5360 and I am on a tight budget on the screen. I am going to buy an 82" 16:9 pull down matt white screen - with a gain of 1.0. I really need to know if this is adequate for 3d gaming (brightness) I have a bit of ambient lighting in my room - just enough to read in with curtains closed. Please I need a quick reply because I am buying today or tommorow.
Thanks
Corpz
I am buying an acer H5360 and I am on a tight budget on the screen. I am going to buy an 82" 16:9 pull down matt white screen - with a gain of 1.0. I really need to know if this is adequate for 3d gaming (brightness) I have a bit of ambient lighting in my room - just enough to read in with curtains closed. Please I need a quick reply because I am buying today or tommorow.
Thanks
Corpz
Those can't be tensioned perfectly and it'll wrinkle and the paint goin to look bad. Better buy more expensive paint, and apply it onto blackout cloth which is tensioned by 4 sides like this:
[url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bHFis3j6O0w"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bHFis3j6O0w[/url]
Look for my older posts I had many comments about DLP + matte white (which wont really work).
Those can't be tensioned perfectly and it'll wrinkle and the paint goin to look bad. Better buy more expensive paint, and apply it onto blackout cloth which is tensioned by 4 sides like this:
" rel="nofollow" target = "_blank">
Look for my older posts I had many comments about DLP + matte white (which wont really work).
You can use any screen surface material and coating technology you want, white matte, angular reflective, retro-reflective, grey screen, black screen, semi-transparent, high gain, low gain, anything works.
Just remember to do your homework and do the math to know how bright the picture will be and adjust your screen size and material accordingly.
You can use any screen surface material and coating technology you want, white matte, angular reflective, retro-reflective, grey screen, black screen, semi-transparent, high gain, low gain, anything works.
Just remember to do your homework and do the math to know how bright the picture will be and adjust your screen size and material accordingly.
Passive 3D forever
110" DIY dual-projection system
2x Epson EH-TW3500 (1080p) + Linear Polarizers (SPAR)
XtremScreen Daylight 2.0
VNS Geobox501 signal converter
it does, its 2100 lumens in 2d / 60hz, and 750 (!!) in 3d mode. :unsure:
Now you get your glasses on , your starring at 750*0.38.
Apply shuttering.
.
it does, its 2100 lumens in 2d / 60hz, and 750 (!!) in 3d mode. :unsure:
Now you get your glasses on , your starring at 750*0.38.
Apply shuttering.
.
Now you get your glasses on , your starring at 750*0.38.
Apply shuttering.
.[/quote]
Have you seen the image of the acer? Numbers don't say a lot, i don't have any problems with the brightness. I'm projecting on a white wall btw. The image is as almost the same as the brightness as my Samsung led tv.
You sound as if there is a problem with the brightness, but i can tell you there is nothing to worry about. Even after 1500 lamp hours.
Now you get your glasses on , your starring at 750*0.38.
Apply shuttering.
.
Have you seen the image of the acer? Numbers don't say a lot, i don't have any problems with the brightness. I'm projecting on a white wall btw. The image is as almost the same as the brightness as my Samsung led tv.
You sound as if there is a problem with the brightness, but i can tell you there is nothing to worry about. Even after 1500 lamp hours.
Less than 200 lumen can still look good.... on a small screen. After all, 3D cinemas are rated at an astoundishingly low minimum of 5 foot lambert (where in 2D it's around 12 foot lambert)
@tritosine : when using single DLP projectors at 120Hz, the transmission rate through the glasses it at best 0.25 (0.50 duty cycle and 0.50 due to the polarizers in the shutter glasses)
I didn't find a measure of the actual value through the nvidia glasses but it falls somewhere between 0.15 and 0.20.
Less than 200 lumen can still look good.... on a small screen. After all, 3D cinemas are rated at an astoundishingly low minimum of 5 foot lambert (where in 2D it's around 12 foot lambert)
@tritosine : when using single DLP projectors at 120Hz, the transmission rate through the glasses it at best 0.25 (0.50 duty cycle and 0.50 due to the polarizers in the shutter glasses)
I didn't find a measure of the actual value through the nvidia glasses but it falls somewhere between 0.15 and 0.20.
Passive 3D forever
110" DIY dual-projection system
2x Epson EH-TW3500 (1080p) + Linear Polarizers (SPAR)
XtremScreen Daylight 2.0
VNS Geobox501 signal converter
Hell I have problems with ghosting as well.
Oh , hopefully the second acer arrives intact.
Hell I have problems with ghosting as well.
Oh , hopefully the second acer arrives intact.
Yes the brightness goes down when it is in 120hz and 3D mode, but I find it bright enough. I also have a light controlled room - ie; can be pitched dark if I want.
A small trick, make a black matte non-reflective frame around your screen. It gives a nice definition and definitely will "look brighter" even if it is not.
Yes the brightness goes down when it is in 120hz and 3D mode, but I find it bright enough. I also have a light controlled room - ie; can be pitched dark if I want.
A small trick, make a black matte non-reflective frame around your screen. It gives a nice definition and definitely will "look brighter" even if it is not.
Yes the brightness goes down when it is in 120hz and 3D mode, but I find it bright enough. I also have a light controlled room - ie; can be pitched dark if I want.
A small trick, make a black matte non-reflective frame around your screen. It gives a nice definition and definitely will "look brighter" even if it is not.[/quote]
No. This is just way too much loss. You can read the DepthQ PJ has no brightness loss either. IDK why you guys handicap yourselves. Bart even has a second PJ , It could be stacked for 2x brightness Im goin to try that too.
Maybe the DLP micromirrors dont have enough time to obtain enough light. Sadly DepthQ wont respond whether or how they managed to stay constant.
Yes the brightness goes down when it is in 120hz and 3D mode, but I find it bright enough. I also have a light controlled room - ie; can be pitched dark if I want.
A small trick, make a black matte non-reflective frame around your screen. It gives a nice definition and definitely will "look brighter" even if it is not.
No. This is just way too much loss. You can read the DepthQ PJ has no brightness loss either. IDK why you guys handicap yourselves. Bart even has a second PJ , It could be stacked for 2x brightness Im goin to try that too.
Maybe the DLP micromirrors dont have enough time to obtain enough light. Sadly DepthQ wont respond whether or how they managed to stay constant.