now I know why you have problems with convergence - its because you have incorrectly set convergence leading to image without depth.
I compared image in Photoshop, overlayed gun and applicated difference blending.
Your epic fail stereo settings are pruducing this difference image:
[url="http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/9262/faileh.jpg"]http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/9262/faileh.jpg[/url]
it is without depth.
I took other image from these forums from more knowledgeable guy and made difference comparision (fixed to end of the gun):
[url="http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/8291/goodvf.jpg"]http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/8291/goodvf.jpg[/url]
this is with depth
Conclusion is that Nvidia should disable all stereo settings in the driver and allow users (losers) only to change depth or maybe to create some quiz in setup so if you pass it stereo settings are unlocked.[/quote]
:)... well glad you figured it out ... yes I was modifying the convergence in the game it was for the technical support... now that you found out what is all about you see that your kit is working ok...mine is not
so...
By the way the images from BigDubs are ghosted because they are not screenshots as mine. So even if he would send you in-game screenshots you wouldn't see the ghosting unless he photographs the screen.
Conclusion is that Nvidia should disable all stereo settings in the driver and allow users (losers) only to change depth or maybe to create some quiz in setup so if you pass it stereo settings are unlocked.
:)... well glad you figured it out ... yes I was modifying the convergence in the game it was for the technical support... now that you found out what is all about you see that your kit is working ok...mine is not
so...
By the way the images from BigDubs are ghosted because they are not screenshots as mine. So even if he would send you in-game screenshots you wouldn't see the ghosting unless he photographs the screen.
CASE: ThermalTake Armor+
CPU: Phenom II 720 X3
GPU: BFG Geforce GTX 295 REV B
RAM: 2 GB Corsair DDR3-1333 CL9
MB: ASUS Crosshair III Formula
PSU: Tagan Piperock 600 W
HDD: Seagate Baracuda 7200.12 1TB
SOUND: Creative X-Fi
DISPLAY: Samsung 2233RZ + Geforce 3D Vision
[quote name='x_phir3' post='945365' date='Nov 4 2009, 01:33 PM']Hope some day you will buy something that you really wanted to work as it should and it won't work even if you change dozens of that kind.
I was just tryin' to say to stick to the topic but there are people that don't really understand the topic.[/quote]
Well, you do not understand what I am saying do you.
It is not about having a bad unit. If you have one like on the picture of that other user then yeah, that sucks, but you try to say that ALL of us have the same crap you have and we are fine living with it and that is ridiculous.
[quote name='x_phir3' post='945365' date='Nov 4 2009, 01:33 PM']Hope some day you will buy something that you really wanted to work as it should and it won't work even if you change dozens of that kind.
I was just tryin' to say to stick to the topic but there are people that don't really understand the topic.
Well, you do not understand what I am saying do you.
It is not about having a bad unit. If you have one like on the picture of that other user then yeah, that sucks, but you try to say that ALL of us have the same crap you have and we are fine living with it and that is ridiculous.
[quote name='shaolin95' post='945374' date='Nov 4 2009, 10:44 PM']Well, you do not understand what I am saying do you.
It is not about having a bad unit. If you have one like on the picture of that other user then yeah, that sucks, but you try to say that ALL of us have the same crap you have and we are fine living with it and that is ridiculous.[/quote]
Yes I have that problem. And yes it sucks. And there are few dozens of people that have the same problem.You were lucky
[quote name='shaolin95' post='945374' date='Nov 4 2009, 10:44 PM']Well, you do not understand what I am saying do you.
It is not about having a bad unit. If you have one like on the picture of that other user then yeah, that sucks, but you try to say that ALL of us have the same crap you have and we are fine living with it and that is ridiculous.
Yes I have that problem. And yes it sucks. And there are few dozens of people that have the same problem.You were lucky
Here's a photo
CASE: ThermalTake Armor+
CPU: Phenom II 720 X3
GPU: BFG Geforce GTX 295 REV B
RAM: 2 GB Corsair DDR3-1333 CL9
MB: ASUS Crosshair III Formula
PSU: Tagan Piperock 600 W
HDD: Seagate Baracuda 7200.12 1TB
SOUND: Creative X-Fi
DISPLAY: Samsung 2233RZ + Geforce 3D Vision
[quote name='x_phir3' post='945401' date='Nov 4 2009, 02:16 PM']Yes I have that problem. And yes it sucks. And there are few dozens of people that have the same problem.You were lucky
[img]http://i33.tinypic.com/20z5sna.jpg[/img]
Here's a photo[/quote]
There a LOT of lucky ones not just me but sorry for your problem though, it sucks to have the image looking so extreme. Heck, now that I got used to the DLP even my LCD looks bad now. lol
[quote name='x_phir3' post='945401' date='Nov 4 2009, 02:16 PM']Yes I have that problem. And yes it sucks. And there are few dozens of people that have the same problem.You were lucky
Here's a photo
There a LOT of lucky ones not just me but sorry for your problem though, it sucks to have the image looking so extreme. Heck, now that I got used to the DLP even my LCD looks bad now. lol
Hey guys, just read through 8 pages of posts, over 7 months!!
I got my kit yesterday and I just want to add, I too am having the same problem, but its no where near as severe as BigDubs or x_phir, for you I am really sorry.
My ghosting is limited to so far in the games I've tried only the top 3cm of the screen and its only very very faint, have all you guys spent a week of so gaming on 15% depth and then gradually increasing it so your eyes get used to it like it says in the manual? If you vamp it straight to like 50% then you'll find it really weird.
I'm running a 8800GT, with 2233RZ, set to 15% depth and running at 120Hz. However even on the 2 tests images (close right eye, close left eye etc) I see ghosting at the top of those images and they are not even full screen. I'm running Windows 7 with 8800GT 190.62 driver and 3D Vision driver of 191.07
Some of you guys with the very severe ghosting, have you changed your graphics settings to what nVidia suggest, the little box in the bottom right Ctrl + Alt + Insert etc? Most of the boxes tell you to turn off Bloom and HDR. Anyway I'll continue using the system and keep checking back with any updates I get.
Hey guys, just read through 8 pages of posts, over 7 months!!
I got my kit yesterday and I just want to add, I too am having the same problem, but its no where near as severe as BigDubs or x_phir, for you I am really sorry.
My ghosting is limited to so far in the games I've tried only the top 3cm of the screen and its only very very faint, have all you guys spent a week of so gaming on 15% depth and then gradually increasing it so your eyes get used to it like it says in the manual? If you vamp it straight to like 50% then you'll find it really weird.
I'm running a 8800GT, with 2233RZ, set to 15% depth and running at 120Hz. However even on the 2 tests images (close right eye, close left eye etc) I see ghosting at the top of those images and they are not even full screen. I'm running Windows 7 with 8800GT 190.62 driver and 3D Vision driver of 191.07
Some of you guys with the very severe ghosting, have you changed your graphics settings to what nVidia suggest, the little box in the bottom right Ctrl + Alt + Insert etc? Most of the boxes tell you to turn off Bloom and HDR. Anyway I'll continue using the system and keep checking back with any updates I get.
[quote name='Mouse1989' post='945437' date='Nov 4 2009, 11:46 PM']Hey guys, just read through 8 pages of posts, over 7 months!!
I got my kit yesterday and I just want to add, I too am having the same problem, but its no where near as severe as BigDubs or x_phir, for you I am really sorry.
My ghosting is limited to so far in the games I've tried only the top 3cm of the screen and its only very very faint, have all you guys spent a week of so gaming on 15% depth and then gradually increasing it so your eyes get used to it like it says in the manual? If you vamp it straight to like 50% then you'll find it really weird.
I'm running a 8800GT, with 2233RZ, set to 15% depth and running at 120Hz. However even on the 2 tests images (close right eye, close left eye etc) I see ghosting at the top of those images and they are not even full screen. I'm running Windows 7 with 8800GT 190.62 driver and 3D Vision driver of 191.07
Some of you guys with the very severe ghosting, have you changed your graphics settings to what nVidia suggest, the little box in the bottom right Ctrl + Alt + Insert etc? Most of the boxes tell you to turn off Bloom and HDR. Anyway I'll continue using the system and keep checking back with any updates I get.[/quote]
Well it doesn't matter the depth I use... it ghosts at any depth.
I want to play all the games at 100% depth so I don't think that if I play 2 hours at 15%
and then increase it gradually from time to time will make any difference it makes no sense.
The hints in the right bottom corner are just little adjustments in order to avoid game artifacts due to stereo incompatibility so won't do any magic :)
Why didn't you tried the glasses in the store??! before purchasing? :)
[quote name='Mouse1989' post='945437' date='Nov 4 2009, 11:46 PM']Hey guys, just read through 8 pages of posts, over 7 months!!
I got my kit yesterday and I just want to add, I too am having the same problem, but its no where near as severe as BigDubs or x_phir, for you I am really sorry.
My ghosting is limited to so far in the games I've tried only the top 3cm of the screen and its only very very faint, have all you guys spent a week of so gaming on 15% depth and then gradually increasing it so your eyes get used to it like it says in the manual? If you vamp it straight to like 50% then you'll find it really weird.
I'm running a 8800GT, with 2233RZ, set to 15% depth and running at 120Hz. However even on the 2 tests images (close right eye, close left eye etc) I see ghosting at the top of those images and they are not even full screen. I'm running Windows 7 with 8800GT 190.62 driver and 3D Vision driver of 191.07
Some of you guys with the very severe ghosting, have you changed your graphics settings to what nVidia suggest, the little box in the bottom right Ctrl + Alt + Insert etc? Most of the boxes tell you to turn off Bloom and HDR. Anyway I'll continue using the system and keep checking back with any updates I get.
Well it doesn't matter the depth I use... it ghosts at any depth.
I want to play all the games at 100% depth so I don't think that if I play 2 hours at 15%
and then increase it gradually from time to time will make any difference it makes no sense.
The hints in the right bottom corner are just little adjustments in order to avoid game artifacts due to stereo incompatibility so won't do any magic :)
Why didn't you tried the glasses in the store??! before purchasing? :)
CASE: ThermalTake Armor+
CPU: Phenom II 720 X3
GPU: BFG Geforce GTX 295 REV B
RAM: 2 GB Corsair DDR3-1333 CL9
MB: ASUS Crosshair III Formula
PSU: Tagan Piperock 600 W
HDD: Seagate Baracuda 7200.12 1TB
SOUND: Creative X-Fi
DISPLAY: Samsung 2233RZ + Geforce 3D Vision
[quote name='shaolin95' post='945412' date='Nov 4 2009, 11:28 PM']There a LOT of lucky ones not just me but sorry for your problem though, it sucks to have the image looking so extreme. Heck, now that I got used to the DLP even my LCD looks bad now. lol[/quote]
[quote name='shaolin95' post='945412' date='Nov 4 2009, 11:28 PM']There a LOT of lucky ones not just me but sorry for your problem though, it sucks to have the image looking so extreme. Heck, now that I got used to the DLP even my LCD looks bad now. lol
:) so you have an LCD also?? 2233RZ ?!?
CASE: ThermalTake Armor+
CPU: Phenom II 720 X3
GPU: BFG Geforce GTX 295 REV B
RAM: 2 GB Corsair DDR3-1333 CL9
MB: ASUS Crosshair III Formula
PSU: Tagan Piperock 600 W
HDD: Seagate Baracuda 7200.12 1TB
SOUND: Creative X-Fi
DISPLAY: Samsung 2233RZ + Geforce 3D Vision
[quote name='x_phir3' post='945704' date='Nov 5 2009, 06:29 AM']:) so you have an LCD also?? 2233RZ ?!?[/quote]
I get this issue fairly badly with bright games also, originally I thought it was to do with my glasses being faulty and not completely blacking out the frame but after reading a fair bit it seems that physics and logic is telling me that the monitor that came bundled with the kit (SAMSUNG 2233RZ) might just not be up to the job.
The monitor does have a refresh of 5ms which would allow 200Hz if needed but of course this is in ideal conditions based on certain colour to colour transition at certain pixel positions on the monitor. And I do know from reading Toms Hardware with their in-depth reviews that a monitor’s pixel performance is by no means uniform through the entire viewing screen. In fact form reviews you always see that the performance drops in pixel response is always concentrated at the top and bottom of the monitors (the best performance being viewed in the dead centre of the monitor.)
On top of that the colours being used in games aren’t always a green pixel to a green pixel. In game views that have towers standing in front of the bright sky you will have more of a black to white transition. And black to white transitions will always take longer than the most efficient colour transitions that they would have spec’ed the monitor up with. So the fact that black to white transitions will take a longer amount of time than the 5ms stated monitor spec sheet. And mixed with the fact that performance of non central pixels are not as good as the dead centre pixels you will obviously get a much slower pixel transition than 5ms.
At 120Hz you need your pixel to completely change from the old frame colour to the new frame colour in approximately 8.333ms. But that’s not all you have to think about... The shutter speed of the 3D glasses also comes in to play. If the shutters remained closed on the glasses you will just get a black screen, if you kept the shutters open at all times you will see both screens simultaneously. And if you only kept the shutter closed for 50% of the time then you will only give the monitor 4.166ms to refresh to the next image. So why the glasses seem fairly dark when in use is that they stay dark for roughly 70 – 90% of the time and show you the image on the screen for the remainder of that time. This again knocks off some valuable pixel changing time for your monitor. So what time you have for the change is effectively reduced buy the percentage of time that the shutter remains open.
So the time for the monitor to change the pixel at say shutter close duration of 90% would give you 7.499ms for each pixel to change. So with all these issues taken in to account for a monitor to be completely 3D ready does that not mean that every colour on the monitor should be able to change from one colour to the next on all points of the screen at, at least 7.499ms? I would bet if someone done a test it would show as not being the case.
But if this logic is sound then changing your refresh on your monitor from 120Hz to 100Hz should in theory give you less ghosting due to the fact that at a 90% closed shutter duration, you then have approximately 9ms for each pixel to fully change its colour.
I am not at my PC for most of today but does anyone mind checking this out?
[quote name='x_phir3' post='945704' date='Nov 5 2009, 06:29 AM']:) so you have an LCD also?? 2233RZ ?!?
I get this issue fairly badly with bright games also, originally I thought it was to do with my glasses being faulty and not completely blacking out the frame but after reading a fair bit it seems that physics and logic is telling me that the monitor that came bundled with the kit (SAMSUNG 2233RZ) might just not be up to the job.
The monitor does have a refresh of 5ms which would allow 200Hz if needed but of course this is in ideal conditions based on certain colour to colour transition at certain pixel positions on the monitor. And I do know from reading Toms Hardware with their in-depth reviews that a monitor’s pixel performance is by no means uniform through the entire viewing screen. In fact form reviews you always see that the performance drops in pixel response is always concentrated at the top and bottom of the monitors (the best performance being viewed in the dead centre of the monitor.)
On top of that the colours being used in games aren’t always a green pixel to a green pixel. In game views that have towers standing in front of the bright sky you will have more of a black to white transition. And black to white transitions will always take longer than the most efficient colour transitions that they would have spec’ed the monitor up with. So the fact that black to white transitions will take a longer amount of time than the 5ms stated monitor spec sheet. And mixed with the fact that performance of non central pixels are not as good as the dead centre pixels you will obviously get a much slower pixel transition than 5ms.
At 120Hz you need your pixel to completely change from the old frame colour to the new frame colour in approximately 8.333ms. But that’s not all you have to think about... The shutter speed of the 3D glasses also comes in to play. If the shutters remained closed on the glasses you will just get a black screen, if you kept the shutters open at all times you will see both screens simultaneously. And if you only kept the shutter closed for 50% of the time then you will only give the monitor 4.166ms to refresh to the next image. So why the glasses seem fairly dark when in use is that they stay dark for roughly 70 – 90% of the time and show you the image on the screen for the remainder of that time. This again knocks off some valuable pixel changing time for your monitor. So what time you have for the change is effectively reduced buy the percentage of time that the shutter remains open.
So the time for the monitor to change the pixel at say shutter close duration of 90% would give you 7.499ms for each pixel to change. So with all these issues taken in to account for a monitor to be completely 3D ready does that not mean that every colour on the monitor should be able to change from one colour to the next on all points of the screen at, at least 7.499ms? I would bet if someone done a test it would show as not being the case.
But if this logic is sound then changing your refresh on your monitor from 120Hz to 100Hz should in theory give you less ghosting due to the fact that at a 90% closed shutter duration, you then have approximately 9ms for each pixel to fully change its colour.
I am not at my PC for most of today but does anyone mind checking this out?
[quote name='Cafuddled' post='945766' date='Nov 5 2009, 01:16 PM']I get this issue fairly badly with bright games also, originally I thought it was to do with my glasses being faulty and not completely blacking out the frame but after reading a fair bit it seems that physics and logic is telling me that the monitor that came bundled with the kit (SAMSUNG 2233RZ) might just not be up to the job.
The monitor does have a refresh of 5ms which would allow 200Hz if needed but of course this is in ideal conditions based on certain colour to colour transition at certain pixel positions on the monitor. And I do know from reading Toms Hardware with their in-depth reviews that a monitor’s pixel performance is by no means uniform through the entire viewing screen. In fact form reviews you always see that the performance drops in pixel response is always concentrated at the top and bottom of the monitors (the best performance being viewed in the dead centre of the monitor.)
On top of that the colours being used in games aren’t always a green pixel to a green pixel. In game views that have towers standing in front of the bright sky you will have more of a black to white transition. And black to white transitions will always take longer than the most efficient colour transitions that they would have spec’ed the monitor up with. So the fact that black to white transitions will take a longer amount of time than the 5ms stated monitor spec sheet. And mixed with the fact that performance of non central pixels are not as good as the dead centre pixels you will obviously get a much slower pixel transition than 5ms.
At 120Hz you need your pixel to completely change from the old frame colour to the new frame colour in approximately 8.333ms. But that’s not all you have to think about... The shutter speed of the 3D glasses also comes in to play. If the shutters remained closed on the glasses you will just get a black screen, if you kept the shutters open at all times you will see both screens simultaneously. And if you only kept the shutter closed for 50% of the time then you will only give the monitor 4.166ms to refresh to the next image. So why the glasses seem fairly dark when in use is that they stay dark for roughly 70 – 90% of the time and show you the image on the screen for the remainder of that time. This again knocks off some valuable pixel changing time for your monitor. So what time you have for the change is effectively reduced buy the percentage of time that the shutter remains open.
So the time for the monitor to change the pixel at say shutter close duration of 90% would give you 7.499ms for each pixel to change. So with all these issues taken in to account for a monitor to be completely 3D ready does that not mean that every colour on the monitor should be able to change from one colour to the next on all points of the screen at, at least 7.499ms? I would bet if someone done a test it would show as not being the case.
But if this logic is sound then changing your refresh on your monitor from 120Hz to 100Hz should in theory give you less ghosting due to the fact that at a 90% closed shutter duration, you then have approximately 9ms for each pixel to fully change its colour.
I am not at my PC for most of today but does anyone mind checking this out?
Thanks for reading :)[/quote]
It does not really matter because the glasses have the same issue on CRT monitors . So everything you wrote maybe it is ok technically but ... not quite to be the issue here
[quote name='Cafuddled' post='945766' date='Nov 5 2009, 01:16 PM']I get this issue fairly badly with bright games also, originally I thought it was to do with my glasses being faulty and not completely blacking out the frame but after reading a fair bit it seems that physics and logic is telling me that the monitor that came bundled with the kit (SAMSUNG 2233RZ) might just not be up to the job.
The monitor does have a refresh of 5ms which would allow 200Hz if needed but of course this is in ideal conditions based on certain colour to colour transition at certain pixel positions on the monitor. And I do know from reading Toms Hardware with their in-depth reviews that a monitor’s pixel performance is by no means uniform through the entire viewing screen. In fact form reviews you always see that the performance drops in pixel response is always concentrated at the top and bottom of the monitors (the best performance being viewed in the dead centre of the monitor.)
On top of that the colours being used in games aren’t always a green pixel to a green pixel. In game views that have towers standing in front of the bright sky you will have more of a black to white transition. And black to white transitions will always take longer than the most efficient colour transitions that they would have spec’ed the monitor up with. So the fact that black to white transitions will take a longer amount of time than the 5ms stated monitor spec sheet. And mixed with the fact that performance of non central pixels are not as good as the dead centre pixels you will obviously get a much slower pixel transition than 5ms.
At 120Hz you need your pixel to completely change from the old frame colour to the new frame colour in approximately 8.333ms. But that’s not all you have to think about... The shutter speed of the 3D glasses also comes in to play. If the shutters remained closed on the glasses you will just get a black screen, if you kept the shutters open at all times you will see both screens simultaneously. And if you only kept the shutter closed for 50% of the time then you will only give the monitor 4.166ms to refresh to the next image. So why the glasses seem fairly dark when in use is that they stay dark for roughly 70 – 90% of the time and show you the image on the screen for the remainder of that time. This again knocks off some valuable pixel changing time for your monitor. So what time you have for the change is effectively reduced buy the percentage of time that the shutter remains open.
So the time for the monitor to change the pixel at say shutter close duration of 90% would give you 7.499ms for each pixel to change. So with all these issues taken in to account for a monitor to be completely 3D ready does that not mean that every colour on the monitor should be able to change from one colour to the next on all points of the screen at, at least 7.499ms? I would bet if someone done a test it would show as not being the case.
But if this logic is sound then changing your refresh on your monitor from 120Hz to 100Hz should in theory give you less ghosting due to the fact that at a 90% closed shutter duration, you then have approximately 9ms for each pixel to fully change its colour.
I am not at my PC for most of today but does anyone mind checking this out?
Thanks for reading :)
It does not really matter because the glasses have the same issue on CRT monitors . So everything you wrote maybe it is ok technically but ... not quite to be the issue here
CASE: ThermalTake Armor+
CPU: Phenom II 720 X3
GPU: BFG Geforce GTX 295 REV B
RAM: 2 GB Corsair DDR3-1333 CL9
MB: ASUS Crosshair III Formula
PSU: Tagan Piperock 600 W
HDD: Seagate Baracuda 7200.12 1TB
SOUND: Creative X-Fi
DISPLAY: Samsung 2233RZ + Geforce 3D Vision
[quote name='x_phir3' post='945775' date='Nov 5 2009, 11:57 AM']It does not really matter because the glasses have the same issue on CRT monitors . So everything you wrote maybe it is ok technically but ... not quite to be the issue here[/quote]
Well if that's the case then the only explanation is the 3D glasses don't completely black out each frame completely… But I don’t think this is the case all the time as I have noticed two types of ghosting. The type that happens all over the screen at any angle you look through with the glasses (Half Life 2 Episode 2 – The big blue swirly thing). And the type that happens on the edges of the monitor I still believe this is an issue with the monitor and not the glasses.
Have you tried running games at 100Hz to see if the ghosting issue is reduced?
[quote name='x_phir3' post='945775' date='Nov 5 2009, 11:57 AM']It does not really matter because the glasses have the same issue on CRT monitors . So everything you wrote maybe it is ok technically but ... not quite to be the issue here
Well if that's the case then the only explanation is the 3D glasses don't completely black out each frame completely… But I don’t think this is the case all the time as I have noticed two types of ghosting. The type that happens all over the screen at any angle you look through with the glasses (Half Life 2 Episode 2 – The big blue swirly thing). And the type that happens on the edges of the monitor I still believe this is an issue with the monitor and not the glasses.
Have you tried running games at 100Hz to see if the ghosting issue is reduced?
[quote name='x_phir3' post='945704' date='Nov 4 2009, 11:29 PM']:) so you have an LCD also?? 2233RZ ?!?[/quote]
Yes I do:
[url="http://img340.imageshack.us/i/testor.jpg/"][img]http://img340.imageshack.us/img340/4394/testor.jpg[/img][/url]
[quote]It does not really matter because the glasses have the same issue on CRT monitors . So everything you wrote maybe it is ok technically but ... not quite to be the issue here[/quote]
Yet it does not happen with DLP so something must be going on with the LCD technology here. Not sure on the CRT.
[quote name='x_phir3' post='945704' date='Nov 4 2009, 11:29 PM']:) so you have an LCD also?? 2233RZ ?!?
Yes I do:
It does not really matter because the glasses have the same issue on CRT monitors . So everything you wrote maybe it is ok technically but ... not quite to be the issue here
Yet it does not happen with DLP so something must be going on with the LCD technology here. Not sure on the CRT.
[quote name='Mouse1989' post='945851' date='Nov 5 2009, 04:54 PM']That is a nice setup you got going on there!!
I did try at 100Hz and it did reduce the ghosting but the significantly increases the flickering so thats a no-go[/quote]
Well if I’m right then there is no other choice than to get your money back as the monitors are just not good enough to stop ghosting yet... I heard that the Viewsonics response time was slightly better on a few reviews but only very slightly... Well I am lucky that I purchased this kit 7 days ago and still have another 3 weeks to return it... Unless Nvidia tech support tell me anything that will help, but I somehow don’t think they will :(
Thanks
[EDIT]
I wonder what would happen if you could get the frequency of the Nvidia glasses running at 120Hz while you had the monitor running at 60Hz… Most likely you will get the mid pixel transition stage showing, but it could result in a much better ghost free image… Wonder if anyone can write an override?
[quote name='Mouse1989' post='945851' date='Nov 5 2009, 04:54 PM']That is a nice setup you got going on there!!
I did try at 100Hz and it did reduce the ghosting but the significantly increases the flickering so thats a no-go
Well if I’m right then there is no other choice than to get your money back as the monitors are just not good enough to stop ghosting yet... I heard that the Viewsonics response time was slightly better on a few reviews but only very slightly... Well I am lucky that I purchased this kit 7 days ago and still have another 3 weeks to return it... Unless Nvidia tech support tell me anything that will help, but I somehow don’t think they will :(
Thanks
[EDIT]
I wonder what would happen if you could get the frequency of the Nvidia glasses running at 120Hz while you had the monitor running at 60Hz… Most likely you will get the mid pixel transition stage showing, but it could result in a much better ghost free image… Wonder if anyone can write an override?
Yep I just got home and tried it at 50Hz and while the flicker is now seen in the glasses (I did start to feel a bit of pain behind the eyes and a headaick coming on because of it) I am happy to say the ghosting is reduced by about a good 50% (which means my theory is correct) making games like boarderlands look much better. But ghosting was very much still noticeable in the sky and around the red gun with the yellow sand behind it.
So it's my feeling that ghost free 3D vision is just not here yet, not because of the glasses but because of the monitor thats ment to be '3D Ready' but is more of an 'Almost 3D Ready' monitor...
Shame I dont want to return all this stuff, but I refuse paying £340 for an almost ready technology. If only Nvidia had been a bit more thorough with samsung and the quality of the monitors pixel refresh I would not be here now :(
Hey maybe in another year when good monitors come out at half the price :)
Yep I just got home and tried it at 50Hz and while the flicker is now seen in the glasses (I did start to feel a bit of pain behind the eyes and a headaick coming on because of it) I am happy to say the ghosting is reduced by about a good 50% (which means my theory is correct) making games like boarderlands look much better. But ghosting was very much still noticeable in the sky and around the red gun with the yellow sand behind it.
So it's my feeling that ghost free 3D vision is just not here yet, not because of the glasses but because of the monitor thats ment to be '3D Ready' but is more of an 'Almost 3D Ready' monitor...
Shame I dont want to return all this stuff, but I refuse paying £340 for an almost ready technology. If only Nvidia had been a bit more thorough with samsung and the quality of the monitors pixel refresh I would not be here now :(
Hey maybe in another year when good monitors come out at half the price :)
now I know why you have problems with convergence - its because you have incorrectly set convergence leading to image without depth.
I compared image in Photoshop, overlayed gun and applicated difference blending.
Your epic fail stereo settings are pruducing this difference image:
[url="http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/9262/faileh.jpg"]http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/9262/faileh.jpg[/url]
it is without depth.
I took other image from these forums from more knowledgeable guy and made difference comparision (fixed to end of the gun):
[url="http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/8291/goodvf.jpg"]http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/8291/goodvf.jpg[/url]
this is with depth
Conclusion is that Nvidia should disable all stereo settings in the driver and allow users (losers) only to change depth or maybe to create some quiz in setup so if you pass it stereo settings are unlocked.[/quote]
:)... well glad you figured it out ... yes I was modifying the convergence in the game it was for the technical support... now that you found out what is all about you see that your kit is working ok...mine is not
so...
By the way the images from BigDubs are ghosted because they are not screenshots as mine. So even if he would send you in-game screenshots you wouldn't see the ghosting unless he photographs the screen.
now I know why you have problems with convergence - its because you have incorrectly set convergence leading to image without depth.
I compared image in Photoshop, overlayed gun and applicated difference blending.
Your epic fail stereo settings are pruducing this difference image:
http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/9262/faileh.jpg
it is without depth.
I took other image from these forums from more knowledgeable guy and made difference comparision (fixed to end of the gun):
http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/8291/goodvf.jpg
this is with depth
Conclusion is that Nvidia should disable all stereo settings in the driver and allow users (losers) only to change depth or maybe to create some quiz in setup so if you pass it stereo settings are unlocked.
:)... well glad you figured it out ... yes I was modifying the convergence in the game it was for the technical support... now that you found out what is all about you see that your kit is working ok...mine is not
so...
By the way the images from BigDubs are ghosted because they are not screenshots as mine. So even if he would send you in-game screenshots you wouldn't see the ghosting unless he photographs the screen.
CASE: ThermalTake Armor+
CPU: Phenom II 720 X3
GPU: BFG Geforce GTX 295 REV B
RAM: 2 GB Corsair DDR3-1333 CL9
MB: ASUS Crosshair III Formula
PSU: Tagan Piperock 600 W
HDD: Seagate Baracuda 7200.12 1TB
SOUND: Creative X-Fi
DISPLAY: Samsung 2233RZ + Geforce 3D Vision
I was just tryin' to say to stick to the topic but there are people that don't really understand the topic.[/quote]
Well, you do not understand what I am saying do you.
It is not about having a bad unit. If you have one like on the picture of that other user then yeah, that sucks, but you try to say that ALL of us have the same crap you have and we are fine living with it and that is ridiculous.
I was just tryin' to say to stick to the topic but there are people that don't really understand the topic.
Well, you do not understand what I am saying do you.
It is not about having a bad unit. If you have one like on the picture of that other user then yeah, that sucks, but you try to say that ALL of us have the same crap you have and we are fine living with it and that is ridiculous.
*CPU: i7 920 DO @ 4.1Ghz 1.35v HT On*CPU Cooler: Thermaltake Water 2.0 Extreme*Mobo: Evga X58 SLI / RAM: 12GB Crucial Ballistix Tactical Tracer DDR3 1600 7-7-7-21 1.5v*Video Cards:Tri Sli Evga GTX 660 ti x 2 & MSI GTX 660 ti *Speakers:CBM-170 SE*PSU: Corsair HX1000W*Display: Mitusbishi 60" DLP (3D Vision ) Qnix QX2710 27" 1440P*Case: CoolerMaster HAF X (932 side) *Windows 7 64Bit on Samsung 840 256GB*Others: Roccat Kone XTD | Roccat Alumic | Logitech G15 | *Mobile: Galaxy Note 2
It is not about having a bad unit. If you have one like on the picture of that other user then yeah, that sucks, but you try to say that ALL of us have the same crap you have and we are fine living with it and that is ridiculous.[/quote]
Yes I have that problem. And yes it sucks. And there are few dozens of people that have the same problem.You were lucky
[img]http://i33.tinypic.com/20z5sna.jpg[/img]
Here's a photo
It is not about having a bad unit. If you have one like on the picture of that other user then yeah, that sucks, but you try to say that ALL of us have the same crap you have and we are fine living with it and that is ridiculous.
Yes I have that problem. And yes it sucks. And there are few dozens of people that have the same problem.You were lucky
Here's a photo
CASE: ThermalTake Armor+
CPU: Phenom II 720 X3
GPU: BFG Geforce GTX 295 REV B
RAM: 2 GB Corsair DDR3-1333 CL9
MB: ASUS Crosshair III Formula
PSU: Tagan Piperock 600 W
HDD: Seagate Baracuda 7200.12 1TB
SOUND: Creative X-Fi
DISPLAY: Samsung 2233RZ + Geforce 3D Vision
[img]http://i33.tinypic.com/20z5sna.jpg[/img]
Here's a photo[/quote]
There a LOT of lucky ones not just me but sorry for your problem though, it sucks to have the image looking so extreme. Heck, now that I got used to the DLP even my LCD looks bad now. lol
Here's a photo
There a LOT of lucky ones not just me but sorry for your problem though, it sucks to have the image looking so extreme. Heck, now that I got used to the DLP even my LCD looks bad now. lol
*CPU: i7 920 DO @ 4.1Ghz 1.35v HT On*CPU Cooler: Thermaltake Water 2.0 Extreme*Mobo: Evga X58 SLI / RAM: 12GB Crucial Ballistix Tactical Tracer DDR3 1600 7-7-7-21 1.5v*Video Cards:Tri Sli Evga GTX 660 ti x 2 & MSI GTX 660 ti *Speakers:CBM-170 SE*PSU: Corsair HX1000W*Display: Mitusbishi 60" DLP (3D Vision ) Qnix QX2710 27" 1440P*Case: CoolerMaster HAF X (932 side) *Windows 7 64Bit on Samsung 840 256GB*Others: Roccat Kone XTD | Roccat Alumic | Logitech G15 | *Mobile: Galaxy Note 2
I got my kit yesterday and I just want to add, I too am having the same problem, but its no where near as severe as BigDubs or x_phir, for you I am really sorry.
My ghosting is limited to so far in the games I've tried only the top 3cm of the screen and its only very very faint, have all you guys spent a week of so gaming on 15% depth and then gradually increasing it so your eyes get used to it like it says in the manual? If you vamp it straight to like 50% then you'll find it really weird.
I'm running a 8800GT, with 2233RZ, set to 15% depth and running at 120Hz. However even on the 2 tests images (close right eye, close left eye etc) I see ghosting at the top of those images and they are not even full screen. I'm running Windows 7 with 8800GT 190.62 driver and 3D Vision driver of 191.07
Some of you guys with the very severe ghosting, have you changed your graphics settings to what nVidia suggest, the little box in the bottom right Ctrl + Alt + Insert etc? Most of the boxes tell you to turn off Bloom and HDR. Anyway I'll continue using the system and keep checking back with any updates I get.
I got my kit yesterday and I just want to add, I too am having the same problem, but its no where near as severe as BigDubs or x_phir, for you I am really sorry.
My ghosting is limited to so far in the games I've tried only the top 3cm of the screen and its only very very faint, have all you guys spent a week of so gaming on 15% depth and then gradually increasing it so your eyes get used to it like it says in the manual? If you vamp it straight to like 50% then you'll find it really weird.
I'm running a 8800GT, with 2233RZ, set to 15% depth and running at 120Hz. However even on the 2 tests images (close right eye, close left eye etc) I see ghosting at the top of those images and they are not even full screen. I'm running Windows 7 with 8800GT 190.62 driver and 3D Vision driver of 191.07
Some of you guys with the very severe ghosting, have you changed your graphics settings to what nVidia suggest, the little box in the bottom right Ctrl + Alt + Insert etc? Most of the boxes tell you to turn off Bloom and HDR. Anyway I'll continue using the system and keep checking back with any updates I get.
I got my kit yesterday and I just want to add, I too am having the same problem, but its no where near as severe as BigDubs or x_phir, for you I am really sorry.
My ghosting is limited to so far in the games I've tried only the top 3cm of the screen and its only very very faint, have all you guys spent a week of so gaming on 15% depth and then gradually increasing it so your eyes get used to it like it says in the manual? If you vamp it straight to like 50% then you'll find it really weird.
I'm running a 8800GT, with 2233RZ, set to 15% depth and running at 120Hz. However even on the 2 tests images (close right eye, close left eye etc) I see ghosting at the top of those images and they are not even full screen. I'm running Windows 7 with 8800GT 190.62 driver and 3D Vision driver of 191.07
Some of you guys with the very severe ghosting, have you changed your graphics settings to what nVidia suggest, the little box in the bottom right Ctrl + Alt + Insert etc? Most of the boxes tell you to turn off Bloom and HDR. Anyway I'll continue using the system and keep checking back with any updates I get.[/quote]
Well it doesn't matter the depth I use... it ghosts at any depth.
I want to play all the games at 100% depth so I don't think that if I play 2 hours at 15%
and then increase it gradually from time to time will make any difference it makes no sense.
The hints in the right bottom corner are just little adjustments in order to avoid game artifacts due to stereo incompatibility so won't do any magic :)
Why didn't you tried the glasses in the store??! before purchasing? :)
I got my kit yesterday and I just want to add, I too am having the same problem, but its no where near as severe as BigDubs or x_phir, for you I am really sorry.
My ghosting is limited to so far in the games I've tried only the top 3cm of the screen and its only very very faint, have all you guys spent a week of so gaming on 15% depth and then gradually increasing it so your eyes get used to it like it says in the manual? If you vamp it straight to like 50% then you'll find it really weird.
I'm running a 8800GT, with 2233RZ, set to 15% depth and running at 120Hz. However even on the 2 tests images (close right eye, close left eye etc) I see ghosting at the top of those images and they are not even full screen. I'm running Windows 7 with 8800GT 190.62 driver and 3D Vision driver of 191.07
Some of you guys with the very severe ghosting, have you changed your graphics settings to what nVidia suggest, the little box in the bottom right Ctrl + Alt + Insert etc? Most of the boxes tell you to turn off Bloom and HDR. Anyway I'll continue using the system and keep checking back with any updates I get.
Well it doesn't matter the depth I use... it ghosts at any depth.
I want to play all the games at 100% depth so I don't think that if I play 2 hours at 15%
and then increase it gradually from time to time will make any difference it makes no sense.
The hints in the right bottom corner are just little adjustments in order to avoid game artifacts due to stereo incompatibility so won't do any magic :)
Why didn't you tried the glasses in the store??! before purchasing? :)
CASE: ThermalTake Armor+
CPU: Phenom II 720 X3
GPU: BFG Geforce GTX 295 REV B
RAM: 2 GB Corsair DDR3-1333 CL9
MB: ASUS Crosshair III Formula
PSU: Tagan Piperock 600 W
HDD: Seagate Baracuda 7200.12 1TB
SOUND: Creative X-Fi
DISPLAY: Samsung 2233RZ + Geforce 3D Vision
:) so you have an LCD also?? 2233RZ ?!?
:) so you have an LCD also?? 2233RZ ?!?
CASE: ThermalTake Armor+
CPU: Phenom II 720 X3
GPU: BFG Geforce GTX 295 REV B
RAM: 2 GB Corsair DDR3-1333 CL9
MB: ASUS Crosshair III Formula
PSU: Tagan Piperock 600 W
HDD: Seagate Baracuda 7200.12 1TB
SOUND: Creative X-Fi
DISPLAY: Samsung 2233RZ + Geforce 3D Vision
I get this issue fairly badly with bright games also, originally I thought it was to do with my glasses being faulty and not completely blacking out the frame but after reading a fair bit it seems that physics and logic is telling me that the monitor that came bundled with the kit (SAMSUNG 2233RZ) might just not be up to the job.
The monitor does have a refresh of 5ms which would allow 200Hz if needed but of course this is in ideal conditions based on certain colour to colour transition at certain pixel positions on the monitor. And I do know from reading Toms Hardware with their in-depth reviews that a monitor’s pixel performance is by no means uniform through the entire viewing screen. In fact form reviews you always see that the performance drops in pixel response is always concentrated at the top and bottom of the monitors (the best performance being viewed in the dead centre of the monitor.)
On top of that the colours being used in games aren’t always a green pixel to a green pixel. In game views that have towers standing in front of the bright sky you will have more of a black to white transition. And black to white transitions will always take longer than the most efficient colour transitions that they would have spec’ed the monitor up with. So the fact that black to white transitions will take a longer amount of time than the 5ms stated monitor spec sheet. And mixed with the fact that performance of non central pixels are not as good as the dead centre pixels you will obviously get a much slower pixel transition than 5ms.
At 120Hz you need your pixel to completely change from the old frame colour to the new frame colour in approximately 8.333ms. But that’s not all you have to think about... The shutter speed of the 3D glasses also comes in to play. If the shutters remained closed on the glasses you will just get a black screen, if you kept the shutters open at all times you will see both screens simultaneously. And if you only kept the shutter closed for 50% of the time then you will only give the monitor 4.166ms to refresh to the next image. So why the glasses seem fairly dark when in use is that they stay dark for roughly 70 – 90% of the time and show you the image on the screen for the remainder of that time. This again knocks off some valuable pixel changing time for your monitor. So what time you have for the change is effectively reduced buy the percentage of time that the shutter remains open.
So the time for the monitor to change the pixel at say shutter close duration of 90% would give you 7.499ms for each pixel to change. So with all these issues taken in to account for a monitor to be completely 3D ready does that not mean that every colour on the monitor should be able to change from one colour to the next on all points of the screen at, at least 7.499ms? I would bet if someone done a test it would show as not being the case.
But if this logic is sound then changing your refresh on your monitor from 120Hz to 100Hz should in theory give you less ghosting due to the fact that at a 90% closed shutter duration, you then have approximately 9ms for each pixel to fully change its colour.
I am not at my PC for most of today but does anyone mind checking this out?
Thanks for reading :)
I get this issue fairly badly with bright games also, originally I thought it was to do with my glasses being faulty and not completely blacking out the frame but after reading a fair bit it seems that physics and logic is telling me that the monitor that came bundled with the kit (SAMSUNG 2233RZ) might just not be up to the job.
The monitor does have a refresh of 5ms which would allow 200Hz if needed but of course this is in ideal conditions based on certain colour to colour transition at certain pixel positions on the monitor. And I do know from reading Toms Hardware with their in-depth reviews that a monitor’s pixel performance is by no means uniform through the entire viewing screen. In fact form reviews you always see that the performance drops in pixel response is always concentrated at the top and bottom of the monitors (the best performance being viewed in the dead centre of the monitor.)
On top of that the colours being used in games aren’t always a green pixel to a green pixel. In game views that have towers standing in front of the bright sky you will have more of a black to white transition. And black to white transitions will always take longer than the most efficient colour transitions that they would have spec’ed the monitor up with. So the fact that black to white transitions will take a longer amount of time than the 5ms stated monitor spec sheet. And mixed with the fact that performance of non central pixels are not as good as the dead centre pixels you will obviously get a much slower pixel transition than 5ms.
At 120Hz you need your pixel to completely change from the old frame colour to the new frame colour in approximately 8.333ms. But that’s not all you have to think about... The shutter speed of the 3D glasses also comes in to play. If the shutters remained closed on the glasses you will just get a black screen, if you kept the shutters open at all times you will see both screens simultaneously. And if you only kept the shutter closed for 50% of the time then you will only give the monitor 4.166ms to refresh to the next image. So why the glasses seem fairly dark when in use is that they stay dark for roughly 70 – 90% of the time and show you the image on the screen for the remainder of that time. This again knocks off some valuable pixel changing time for your monitor. So what time you have for the change is effectively reduced buy the percentage of time that the shutter remains open.
So the time for the monitor to change the pixel at say shutter close duration of 90% would give you 7.499ms for each pixel to change. So with all these issues taken in to account for a monitor to be completely 3D ready does that not mean that every colour on the monitor should be able to change from one colour to the next on all points of the screen at, at least 7.499ms? I would bet if someone done a test it would show as not being the case.
But if this logic is sound then changing your refresh on your monitor from 120Hz to 100Hz should in theory give you less ghosting due to the fact that at a 90% closed shutter duration, you then have approximately 9ms for each pixel to fully change its colour.
I am not at my PC for most of today but does anyone mind checking this out?
Thanks for reading :)
The monitor does have a refresh of 5ms which would allow 200Hz if needed but of course this is in ideal conditions based on certain colour to colour transition at certain pixel positions on the monitor. And I do know from reading Toms Hardware with their in-depth reviews that a monitor’s pixel performance is by no means uniform through the entire viewing screen. In fact form reviews you always see that the performance drops in pixel response is always concentrated at the top and bottom of the monitors (the best performance being viewed in the dead centre of the monitor.)
On top of that the colours being used in games aren’t always a green pixel to a green pixel. In game views that have towers standing in front of the bright sky you will have more of a black to white transition. And black to white transitions will always take longer than the most efficient colour transitions that they would have spec’ed the monitor up with. So the fact that black to white transitions will take a longer amount of time than the 5ms stated monitor spec sheet. And mixed with the fact that performance of non central pixels are not as good as the dead centre pixels you will obviously get a much slower pixel transition than 5ms.
At 120Hz you need your pixel to completely change from the old frame colour to the new frame colour in approximately 8.333ms. But that’s not all you have to think about... The shutter speed of the 3D glasses also comes in to play. If the shutters remained closed on the glasses you will just get a black screen, if you kept the shutters open at all times you will see both screens simultaneously. And if you only kept the shutter closed for 50% of the time then you will only give the monitor 4.166ms to refresh to the next image. So why the glasses seem fairly dark when in use is that they stay dark for roughly 70 – 90% of the time and show you the image on the screen for the remainder of that time. This again knocks off some valuable pixel changing time for your monitor. So what time you have for the change is effectively reduced buy the percentage of time that the shutter remains open.
So the time for the monitor to change the pixel at say shutter close duration of 90% would give you 7.499ms for each pixel to change. So with all these issues taken in to account for a monitor to be completely 3D ready does that not mean that every colour on the monitor should be able to change from one colour to the next on all points of the screen at, at least 7.499ms? I would bet if someone done a test it would show as not being the case.
But if this logic is sound then changing your refresh on your monitor from 120Hz to 100Hz should in theory give you less ghosting due to the fact that at a 90% closed shutter duration, you then have approximately 9ms for each pixel to fully change its colour.
I am not at my PC for most of today but does anyone mind checking this out?
Thanks for reading :)[/quote]
It does not really matter because the glasses have the same issue on CRT monitors . So everything you wrote maybe it is ok technically but ... not quite to be the issue here
The monitor does have a refresh of 5ms which would allow 200Hz if needed but of course this is in ideal conditions based on certain colour to colour transition at certain pixel positions on the monitor. And I do know from reading Toms Hardware with their in-depth reviews that a monitor’s pixel performance is by no means uniform through the entire viewing screen. In fact form reviews you always see that the performance drops in pixel response is always concentrated at the top and bottom of the monitors (the best performance being viewed in the dead centre of the monitor.)
On top of that the colours being used in games aren’t always a green pixel to a green pixel. In game views that have towers standing in front of the bright sky you will have more of a black to white transition. And black to white transitions will always take longer than the most efficient colour transitions that they would have spec’ed the monitor up with. So the fact that black to white transitions will take a longer amount of time than the 5ms stated monitor spec sheet. And mixed with the fact that performance of non central pixels are not as good as the dead centre pixels you will obviously get a much slower pixel transition than 5ms.
At 120Hz you need your pixel to completely change from the old frame colour to the new frame colour in approximately 8.333ms. But that’s not all you have to think about... The shutter speed of the 3D glasses also comes in to play. If the shutters remained closed on the glasses you will just get a black screen, if you kept the shutters open at all times you will see both screens simultaneously. And if you only kept the shutter closed for 50% of the time then you will only give the monitor 4.166ms to refresh to the next image. So why the glasses seem fairly dark when in use is that they stay dark for roughly 70 – 90% of the time and show you the image on the screen for the remainder of that time. This again knocks off some valuable pixel changing time for your monitor. So what time you have for the change is effectively reduced buy the percentage of time that the shutter remains open.
So the time for the monitor to change the pixel at say shutter close duration of 90% would give you 7.499ms for each pixel to change. So with all these issues taken in to account for a monitor to be completely 3D ready does that not mean that every colour on the monitor should be able to change from one colour to the next on all points of the screen at, at least 7.499ms? I would bet if someone done a test it would show as not being the case.
But if this logic is sound then changing your refresh on your monitor from 120Hz to 100Hz should in theory give you less ghosting due to the fact that at a 90% closed shutter duration, you then have approximately 9ms for each pixel to fully change its colour.
I am not at my PC for most of today but does anyone mind checking this out?
Thanks for reading :)
It does not really matter because the glasses have the same issue on CRT monitors . So everything you wrote maybe it is ok technically but ... not quite to be the issue here
CASE: ThermalTake Armor+
CPU: Phenom II 720 X3
GPU: BFG Geforce GTX 295 REV B
RAM: 2 GB Corsair DDR3-1333 CL9
MB: ASUS Crosshair III Formula
PSU: Tagan Piperock 600 W
HDD: Seagate Baracuda 7200.12 1TB
SOUND: Creative X-Fi
DISPLAY: Samsung 2233RZ + Geforce 3D Vision
Well if that's the case then the only explanation is the 3D glasses don't completely black out each frame completely… But I don’t think this is the case all the time as I have noticed two types of ghosting. The type that happens all over the screen at any angle you look through with the glasses (Half Life 2 Episode 2 – The big blue swirly thing). And the type that happens on the edges of the monitor I still believe this is an issue with the monitor and not the glasses.
Have you tried running games at 100Hz to see if the ghosting issue is reduced?
Well if that's the case then the only explanation is the 3D glasses don't completely black out each frame completely… But I don’t think this is the case all the time as I have noticed two types of ghosting. The type that happens all over the screen at any angle you look through with the glasses (Half Life 2 Episode 2 – The big blue swirly thing). And the type that happens on the edges of the monitor I still believe this is an issue with the monitor and not the glasses.
Have you tried running games at 100Hz to see if the ghosting issue is reduced?
Yes I do:
[url="http://img340.imageshack.us/i/testor.jpg/"][img]http://img340.imageshack.us/img340/4394/testor.jpg[/img][/url]
[quote]It does not really matter because the glasses have the same issue on CRT monitors . So everything you wrote maybe it is ok technically but ... not quite to be the issue here[/quote]
Yet it does not happen with DLP so something must be going on with the LCD technology here. Not sure on the CRT.
Yes I do:
Yet it does not happen with DLP so something must be going on with the LCD technology here. Not sure on the CRT.
*CPU: i7 920 DO @ 4.1Ghz 1.35v HT On*CPU Cooler: Thermaltake Water 2.0 Extreme*Mobo: Evga X58 SLI / RAM: 12GB Crucial Ballistix Tactical Tracer DDR3 1600 7-7-7-21 1.5v*Video Cards:Tri Sli Evga GTX 660 ti x 2 & MSI GTX 660 ti *Speakers:CBM-170 SE*PSU: Corsair HX1000W*Display: Mitusbishi 60" DLP (3D Vision ) Qnix QX2710 27" 1440P*Case: CoolerMaster HAF X (932 side) *Windows 7 64Bit on Samsung 840 256GB*Others: Roccat Kone XTD | Roccat Alumic | Logitech G15 | *Mobile: Galaxy Note 2
Yet it does not happen with DLP so something must be going on with the LCD technology here. Not sure on the CRT.[/quote]
And you don't have the type of ghosting like I do?
Yet it does not happen with DLP so something must be going on with the LCD technology here. Not sure on the CRT.
And you don't have the type of ghosting like I do?
CASE: ThermalTake Armor+
CPU: Phenom II 720 X3
GPU: BFG Geforce GTX 295 REV B
RAM: 2 GB Corsair DDR3-1333 CL9
MB: ASUS Crosshair III Formula
PSU: Tagan Piperock 600 W
HDD: Seagate Baracuda 7200.12 1TB
SOUND: Creative X-Fi
DISPLAY: Samsung 2233RZ + Geforce 3D Vision
I did try at 100Hz and it did reduce the ghosting but the significantly increases the flickering so thats a no-go
I did try at 100Hz and it did reduce the ghosting but the significantly increases the flickering so thats a no-go
I did try at 100Hz and it did reduce the ghosting but the significantly increases the flickering so thats a no-go[/quote]
Well if I’m right then there is no other choice than to get your money back as the monitors are just not good enough to stop ghosting yet... I heard that the Viewsonics response time was slightly better on a few reviews but only very slightly... Well I am lucky that I purchased this kit 7 days ago and still have another 3 weeks to return it... Unless Nvidia tech support tell me anything that will help, but I somehow don’t think they will :(
Thanks
[EDIT]
I wonder what would happen if you could get the frequency of the Nvidia glasses running at 120Hz while you had the monitor running at 60Hz… Most likely you will get the mid pixel transition stage showing, but it could result in a much better ghost free image… Wonder if anyone can write an override?
I did try at 100Hz and it did reduce the ghosting but the significantly increases the flickering so thats a no-go
Well if I’m right then there is no other choice than to get your money back as the monitors are just not good enough to stop ghosting yet... I heard that the Viewsonics response time was slightly better on a few reviews but only very slightly... Well I am lucky that I purchased this kit 7 days ago and still have another 3 weeks to return it... Unless Nvidia tech support tell me anything that will help, but I somehow don’t think they will :(
Thanks
[EDIT]
I wonder what would happen if you could get the frequency of the Nvidia glasses running at 120Hz while you had the monitor running at 60Hz… Most likely you will get the mid pixel transition stage showing, but it could result in a much better ghost free image… Wonder if anyone can write an override?
So it's my feeling that ghost free 3D vision is just not here yet, not because of the glasses but because of the monitor thats ment to be '3D Ready' but is more of an 'Almost 3D Ready' monitor...
Shame I dont want to return all this stuff, but I refuse paying £340 for an almost ready technology. If only Nvidia had been a bit more thorough with samsung and the quality of the monitors pixel refresh I would not be here now :(
Hey maybe in another year when good monitors come out at half the price :)
So it's my feeling that ghost free 3D vision is just not here yet, not because of the glasses but because of the monitor thats ment to be '3D Ready' but is more of an 'Almost 3D Ready' monitor...
Shame I dont want to return all this stuff, but I refuse paying £340 for an almost ready technology. If only Nvidia had been a bit more thorough with samsung and the quality of the monitors pixel refresh I would not be here now :(
Hey maybe in another year when good monitors come out at half the price :)