FOR NVIDIA SUPPORT: 3D VISION FLICKERING ISSUE Please help us fix this problem.
15 / 16
Hello all,
I'm just chiming in with my experience with this issue.
System:
Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit
AMD Athlon II X4 635 Processor
EVGA 9800 GT 512MB
Antec 650W Power Supply
The flickering issue comes and goes. I worked on it for a while with tech support, but they were ultimately not able to reproduce the issue and ended up blaming the problem on my USB ports. I tried rolling back to the 1.20 CD drivers, and that seemed to help for a while, but then the problem came back.
Now I've tried the suggestion of making sure that the IR emitter is alone on its USB hub and connected directly to the motherboard. That seems to have fixed it! I'm not 100% sure, but I think it might have been set up on my front USB port, alone, when it started working before.
Another person commented that he gets flicker when he moves the mouse -- that would make sense if the mouse was on the same hub.
My flickering problem has happened with still pictures, movies, and games, but seemed to be a touch worse in games. Again, that would make sense if actively using the inputs caused the problem. It doesn't make any sense at all for the flickering to happen outside of games -- playing back movies should not tax a modern system.
EDIT: There's nothing quite like the scientific method. I moved my USB mouse to the hub with the emitter and watched a trailer that was clean when the emitter was alone. Result: About 1 flicker every ten seconds. Then I disconnected the mouse and moved it to another hub. Result: The flickering continued. Then I stopped the video playback (leaving 3D mode), and restarted it. Result: No flickering! I'm now a lot more confident that this is the right work-around.
EDIT, to toddmelliott: I also bought this for StarCraft II. Blizzard has announced that they will be adding support, and the latest beta drivers from nVidia have partial support that is pretty significant. I'm going to hang in there and have some faith that it will all work out. Cheers.
EDIT2: Figuring that I'd narrowed the problem down to the USB issue, I tried uninstalling the drivers and reinstalling the 1.34 beta, with SC II support. That brought the flickering back. 1.33 also flickered. 1.20 does not, as discussed above. Grrrr. I expect that the developers are developing to the USB spec, but doing things that are, in practice, unsupported. I sympathize, but unless nVidia wants to limit itself to particular motherboards, it needs to find a solution that is more universal.
I'm just chiming in with my experience with this issue.
System:
Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit
AMD Athlon II X4 635 Processor
EVGA 9800 GT 512MB
Antec 650W Power Supply
The flickering issue comes and goes. I worked on it for a while with tech support, but they were ultimately not able to reproduce the issue and ended up blaming the problem on my USB ports. I tried rolling back to the 1.20 CD drivers, and that seemed to help for a while, but then the problem came back.
Now I've tried the suggestion of making sure that the IR emitter is alone on its USB hub and connected directly to the motherboard. That seems to have fixed it! I'm not 100% sure, but I think it might have been set up on my front USB port, alone, when it started working before.
Another person commented that he gets flicker when he moves the mouse -- that would make sense if the mouse was on the same hub.
My flickering problem has happened with still pictures, movies, and games, but seemed to be a touch worse in games. Again, that would make sense if actively using the inputs caused the problem. It doesn't make any sense at all for the flickering to happen outside of games -- playing back movies should not tax a modern system.
EDIT: There's nothing quite like the scientific method. I moved my USB mouse to the hub with the emitter and watched a trailer that was clean when the emitter was alone. Result: About 1 flicker every ten seconds. Then I disconnected the mouse and moved it to another hub. Result: The flickering continued. Then I stopped the video playback (leaving 3D mode), and restarted it. Result: No flickering! I'm now a lot more confident that this is the right work-around.
EDIT, to toddmelliott: I also bought this for StarCraft II. Blizzard has announced that they will be adding support, and the latest beta drivers from nVidia have partial support that is pretty significant. I'm going to hang in there and have some faith that it will all work out. Cheers.
EDIT2: Figuring that I'd narrowed the problem down to the USB issue, I tried uninstalling the drivers and reinstalling the 1.34 beta, with SC II support. That brought the flickering back. 1.33 also flickered. 1.20 does not, as discussed above. Grrrr. I expect that the developers are developing to the USB spec, but doing things that are, in practice, unsupported. I sympathize, but unless nVidia wants to limit itself to particular motherboards, it needs to find a solution that is more universal.
Well, I found this thread today as I was tying to figure out this annoying flickering problem. I tried a different USB port (direct to MB of course), I don't use SLI, moved my IR pyramid around... etc, etc. I even had the wild idea to switch Win7 to basic mode, but that didn't work.
Finally, on page 10 Via Sin Dios mentioned the setting during the setup wizard for how many IR emitting devices were in the room. I originally set it up for multiple, but decided to go back and change it to the recommended setting - 3D vision being the only one.
SOLVED - for me anyway... hope this helps others as well!
Well, I found this thread today as I was tying to figure out this annoying flickering problem. I tried a different USB port (direct to MB of course), I don't use SLI, moved my IR pyramid around... etc, etc. I even had the wild idea to switch Win7 to basic mode, but that didn't work.
Finally, on page 10 Via Sin Dios mentioned the setting during the setup wizard for how many IR emitting devices were in the room. I originally set it up for multiple, but decided to go back and change it to the recommended setting - 3D vision being the only one.
SOLVED - for me anyway... hope this helps others as well!
Well, I found this thread today as I was tying to figure out this annoying flickering problem. I tried a different USB port (direct to MB of course), I don't use SLI, moved my IR pyramid around... etc, etc. I even had the wild idea to switch Win7 to basic mode, but that didn't work.
Finally, on page 10 Via Sin Dios mentioned the setting during the setup wizard for how many IR emitting devices were in the room. I originally set it up for multiple, but decided to go back and change it to the recommended setting - 3D vision being the only one.
SOLVED - for me anyway... hope this helps others as well!
Well, I found this thread today as I was tying to figure out this annoying flickering problem. I tried a different USB port (direct to MB of course), I don't use SLI, moved my IR pyramid around... etc, etc. I even had the wild idea to switch Win7 to basic mode, but that didn't work.
Finally, on page 10 Via Sin Dios mentioned the setting during the setup wizard for how many IR emitting devices were in the room. I originally set it up for multiple, but decided to go back and change it to the recommended setting - 3D vision being the only one.
SOLVED - for me anyway... hope this helps others as well!
My IR emitter did flicker ON/OFF in 3D mode, same time as glasses did.
I were thinking that it has to be some power problem with usb. i just removed every machine using USB:s, including mouse, my DVD drive and so on.... then i plugged nvision emitter and it started to work, then i plugged everything back to USB slots, and whatte heck, it still did work! :D
My IR emitter did flicker ON/OFF in 3D mode, same time as glasses did.
I were thinking that it has to be some power problem with usb. i just removed every machine using USB:s, including mouse, my DVD drive and so on.... then i plugged nvision emitter and it started to work, then i plugged everything back to USB slots, and whatte heck, it still did work! :D
My IR emitter did flicker ON/OFF in 3D mode, same time as glasses did.
I were thinking that it has to be some power problem with usb. i just removed every machine using USB:s, including mouse, my DVD drive and so on.... then i plugged nvision emitter and it started to work, then i plugged everything back to USB slots, and whatte heck, it still did work! :D
My IR emitter did flicker ON/OFF in 3D mode, same time as glasses did.
I were thinking that it has to be some power problem with usb. i just removed every machine using USB:s, including mouse, my DVD drive and so on.... then i plugged nvision emitter and it started to work, then i plugged everything back to USB slots, and whatte heck, it still did work! :D
Just something I want to add that might help the engineers, or even some users:
- I get flickers only when playing Modern Warfare 2. No other game. It's the game that makes my graphics card work the most.
- I flicker only when my framerate drops a bit.
- Changing my environment settings in the 3D wizard changes my problem, doesn't fix it. (flickers more, but more subltely...weird)
- I think I can't run games in 3D if my framerate isn't at least 60fps (meaning I run the game fine and enough resources are given to all the peripherals I use.)
EDIT: - Battlefield Bad Company 2 doesn't run at a smoothly 60 fps all the time here, but still retains its perfect synch betwen the IR box and the glasses all the time.
My guess (based on experience and other users input):
- It definitely has to do with resources: the more demanding the game, the more juice it uses up leaving less for the USB ports. Hence the disabling SLI fix... less juice used for other graphics card, more juice given to the USB devices.
- Some games probably ask more from your USB devices (such as an Xbox360 controller) with vibrations and response times so it varies from one game to another.
- I'm also guessing that changing the environment settings (Nvidia 3D wizard) actually changes the signal update rate of the IR box. Probably lowering it (to avoid interfering with other IR devices) so it uses less resources and therefore stays in synch with the glasses more easily because of the less frequent updates.
My solution:
- Make sure you have a powerful enough power supply that can give enough resources to both your graphics cards and USB ports.
- Make sure you have a powerful enough CPU + GPU combination that can run your game properly. (60 fps or higher)
- Through mouse control panel: lower your mouse response rate.
- Unplug unwanted USB devices such as external hard drives and web cams...
- Make sure IR box is plugged in a fast 2.0 USB port.
- Do not place the IR box in a way that the Nvidia logo faces you, make sure the side of the box is facing you. (the Nvidia button actually blocks the signal...don't bother...)
Just something I want to add that might help the engineers, or even some users:
- I get flickers only when playing Modern Warfare 2. No other game. It's the game that makes my graphics card work the most.
- I flicker only when my framerate drops a bit.
- Changing my environment settings in the 3D wizard changes my problem, doesn't fix it. (flickers more, but more subltely...weird)
- I think I can't run games in 3D if my framerate isn't at least 60fps (meaning I run the game fine and enough resources are given to all the peripherals I use.)
EDIT: - Battlefield Bad Company 2 doesn't run at a smoothly 60 fps all the time here, but still retains its perfect synch betwen the IR box and the glasses all the time.
My guess (based on experience and other users input):
- It definitely has to do with resources: the more demanding the game, the more juice it uses up leaving less for the USB ports. Hence the disabling SLI fix... less juice used for other graphics card, more juice given to the USB devices.
- Some games probably ask more from your USB devices (such as an Xbox360 controller) with vibrations and response times so it varies from one game to another.
- I'm also guessing that changing the environment settings (Nvidia 3D wizard) actually changes the signal update rate of the IR box. Probably lowering it (to avoid interfering with other IR devices) so it uses less resources and therefore stays in synch with the glasses more easily because of the less frequent updates.
My solution:
- Make sure you have a powerful enough power supply that can give enough resources to both your graphics cards and USB ports.
- Make sure you have a powerful enough CPU + GPU combination that can run your game properly. (60 fps or higher)
- Through mouse control panel: lower your mouse response rate.
- Unplug unwanted USB devices such as external hard drives and web cams...
- Make sure IR box is plugged in a fast 2.0 USB port.
- Do not place the IR box in a way that the Nvidia logo faces you, make sure the side of the box is facing you. (the Nvidia button actually blocks the signal...don't bother...)
Just something I want to add that might help the engineers, or even some users:
- I get flickers only when playing Modern Warfare 2. No other game. It's the game that makes my graphics card work the most.
- I flicker only when my framerate drops a bit.
- Changing my environment settings in the 3D wizard changes my problem, doesn't fix it. (flickers more, but more subltely...weird)
- I think I can't run games in 3D if my framerate isn't at least 60fps (meaning I run the game fine and enough resources are given to all the peripherals I use.)
EDIT: - Battlefield Bad Company 2 doesn't run at a smoothly 60 fps all the time here, but still retains its perfect synch betwen the IR box and the glasses all the time.
My guess (based on experience and other users input):
- It definitely has to do with resources: the more demanding the game, the more juice it uses up leaving less for the USB ports. Hence the disabling SLI fix... less juice used for other graphics card, more juice given to the USB devices.
- Some games probably ask more from your USB devices (such as an Xbox360 controller) with vibrations and response times so it varies from one game to another.
- I'm also guessing that changing the environment settings (Nvidia 3D wizard) actually changes the signal update rate of the IR box. Probably lowering it (to avoid interfering with other IR devices) so it uses less resources and therefore stays in synch with the glasses more easily because of the less frequent updates.
My solution:
- Make sure you have a powerful enough power supply that can give enough resources to both your graphics cards and USB ports.
- Make sure you have a powerful enough CPU + GPU combination that can run your game properly. (60 fps or higher)
- Through mouse control panel: lower your mouse response rate.
- Unplug unwanted USB devices such as external hard drives and web cams...
- Make sure IR box is plugged in a fast 2.0 USB port.
- Do not place the IR box in a way that the Nvidia logo faces you, make sure the side of the box is facing you. (the Nvidia button actually blocks the signal...don't bother...)
Just something I want to add that might help the engineers, or even some users:
- I get flickers only when playing Modern Warfare 2. No other game. It's the game that makes my graphics card work the most.
- I flicker only when my framerate drops a bit.
- Changing my environment settings in the 3D wizard changes my problem, doesn't fix it. (flickers more, but more subltely...weird)
- I think I can't run games in 3D if my framerate isn't at least 60fps (meaning I run the game fine and enough resources are given to all the peripherals I use.)
EDIT: - Battlefield Bad Company 2 doesn't run at a smoothly 60 fps all the time here, but still retains its perfect synch betwen the IR box and the glasses all the time.
My guess (based on experience and other users input):
- It definitely has to do with resources: the more demanding the game, the more juice it uses up leaving less for the USB ports. Hence the disabling SLI fix... less juice used for other graphics card, more juice given to the USB devices.
- Some games probably ask more from your USB devices (such as an Xbox360 controller) with vibrations and response times so it varies from one game to another.
- I'm also guessing that changing the environment settings (Nvidia 3D wizard) actually changes the signal update rate of the IR box. Probably lowering it (to avoid interfering with other IR devices) so it uses less resources and therefore stays in synch with the glasses more easily because of the less frequent updates.
My solution:
- Make sure you have a powerful enough power supply that can give enough resources to both your graphics cards and USB ports.
- Make sure you have a powerful enough CPU + GPU combination that can run your game properly. (60 fps or higher)
- Through mouse control panel: lower your mouse response rate.
- Unplug unwanted USB devices such as external hard drives and web cams...
- Make sure IR box is plugged in a fast 2.0 USB port.
- Do not place the IR box in a way that the Nvidia logo faces you, make sure the side of the box is facing you. (the Nvidia button actually blocks the signal...don't bother...)
about 1 week ago i noticed periodical flicker in the right glass, and disabling glasses during the game.
I didn't install programs, and it was everything ok before.
waiting for respond from support, may be i should return my glasses to the shop?
i watched in 3d and played since june
in 2 days i'll test it on my laptop
problem solved by deleting 1 free game - russian fishing
about 1 week ago i noticed periodical flicker in the right glass, and disabling glasses during the game.
I didn't install programs, and it was everything ok before.
waiting for respond from support, may be i should return my glasses to the shop?
i watched in 3d and played since june
in 2 days i'll test it on my laptop
problem solved by deleting 1 free game - russian fishing
I'm just chiming in with my experience with this issue.
System:
Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit
AMD Athlon II X4 635 Processor
EVGA 9800 GT 512MB
Antec 650W Power Supply
The flickering issue comes and goes. I worked on it for a while with tech support, but they were ultimately not able to reproduce the issue and ended up blaming the problem on my USB ports. I tried rolling back to the 1.20 CD drivers, and that seemed to help for a while, but then the problem came back.
Now I've tried the suggestion of making sure that the IR emitter is alone on its USB hub and connected directly to the motherboard. That seems to have fixed it! I'm not 100% sure, but I think it might have been set up on my front USB port, alone, when it started working before.
Another person commented that he gets flicker when he moves the mouse -- that would make sense if the mouse was on the same hub.
My flickering problem has happened with still pictures, movies, and games, but seemed to be a touch worse in games. Again, that would make sense if actively using the inputs caused the problem. It doesn't make any sense at all for the flickering to happen outside of games -- playing back movies should not tax a modern system.
EDIT: There's nothing quite like the scientific method. I moved my USB mouse to the hub with the emitter and watched a trailer that was clean when the emitter was alone. Result: About 1 flicker every ten seconds. Then I disconnected the mouse and moved it to another hub. Result: The flickering continued. Then I stopped the video playback (leaving 3D mode), and restarted it. Result: No flickering! I'm now a lot more confident that this is the right work-around.
EDIT, to toddmelliott: I also bought this for StarCraft II. Blizzard has announced that they will be adding support, and the latest beta drivers from nVidia have partial support that is pretty significant. I'm going to hang in there and have some faith that it will all work out. Cheers.
EDIT2: Figuring that I'd narrowed the problem down to the USB issue, I tried uninstalling the drivers and reinstalling the 1.34 beta, with SC II support. That brought the flickering back. 1.33 also flickered. 1.20 does not, as discussed above. Grrrr. I expect that the developers are developing to the USB spec, but doing things that are, in practice, unsupported. I sympathize, but unless nVidia wants to limit itself to particular motherboards, it needs to find a solution that is more universal.
I'm just chiming in with my experience with this issue.
System:
Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit
AMD Athlon II X4 635 Processor
EVGA 9800 GT 512MB
Antec 650W Power Supply
The flickering issue comes and goes. I worked on it for a while with tech support, but they were ultimately not able to reproduce the issue and ended up blaming the problem on my USB ports. I tried rolling back to the 1.20 CD drivers, and that seemed to help for a while, but then the problem came back.
Now I've tried the suggestion of making sure that the IR emitter is alone on its USB hub and connected directly to the motherboard. That seems to have fixed it! I'm not 100% sure, but I think it might have been set up on my front USB port, alone, when it started working before.
Another person commented that he gets flicker when he moves the mouse -- that would make sense if the mouse was on the same hub.
My flickering problem has happened with still pictures, movies, and games, but seemed to be a touch worse in games. Again, that would make sense if actively using the inputs caused the problem. It doesn't make any sense at all for the flickering to happen outside of games -- playing back movies should not tax a modern system.
EDIT: There's nothing quite like the scientific method. I moved my USB mouse to the hub with the emitter and watched a trailer that was clean when the emitter was alone. Result: About 1 flicker every ten seconds. Then I disconnected the mouse and moved it to another hub. Result: The flickering continued. Then I stopped the video playback (leaving 3D mode), and restarted it. Result: No flickering! I'm now a lot more confident that this is the right work-around.
EDIT, to toddmelliott: I also bought this for StarCraft II. Blizzard has announced that they will be adding support, and the latest beta drivers from nVidia have partial support that is pretty significant. I'm going to hang in there and have some faith that it will all work out. Cheers.
EDIT2: Figuring that I'd narrowed the problem down to the USB issue, I tried uninstalling the drivers and reinstalling the 1.34 beta, with SC II support. That brought the flickering back. 1.33 also flickered. 1.20 does not, as discussed above. Grrrr. I expect that the developers are developing to the USB spec, but doing things that are, in practice, unsupported. I sympathize, but unless nVidia wants to limit itself to particular motherboards, it needs to find a solution that is more universal.
Finally, on page 10 Via Sin Dios mentioned the setting during the setup wizard for how many IR emitting devices were in the room. I originally set it up for multiple, but decided to go back and change it to the recommended setting - 3D vision being the only one.
SOLVED - for me anyway... hope this helps others as well!
Finally, on page 10 Via Sin Dios mentioned the setting during the setup wizard for how many IR emitting devices were in the room. I originally set it up for multiple, but decided to go back and change it to the recommended setting - 3D vision being the only one.
SOLVED - for me anyway... hope this helps others as well!
Finally, on page 10 Via Sin Dios mentioned the setting during the setup wizard for how many IR emitting devices were in the room. I originally set it up for multiple, but decided to go back and change it to the recommended setting - 3D vision being the only one.
SOLVED - for me anyway... hope this helps others as well!
Finally, on page 10 Via Sin Dios mentioned the setting during the setup wizard for how many IR emitting devices were in the room. I originally set it up for multiple, but decided to go back and change it to the recommended setting - 3D vision being the only one.
SOLVED - for me anyway... hope this helps others as well!
My IR emitter did flicker ON/OFF in 3D mode, same time as glasses did.
I were thinking that it has to be some power problem with usb. i just removed every machine using USB:s, including mouse, my DVD drive and so on.... then i plugged nvision emitter and it started to work, then i plugged everything back to USB slots, and whatte heck, it still did work! :D
My IR emitter did flicker ON/OFF in 3D mode, same time as glasses did.
I were thinking that it has to be some power problem with usb. i just removed every machine using USB:s, including mouse, my DVD drive and so on.... then i plugged nvision emitter and it started to work, then i plugged everything back to USB slots, and whatte heck, it still did work! :D
My IR emitter did flicker ON/OFF in 3D mode, same time as glasses did.
I were thinking that it has to be some power problem with usb. i just removed every machine using USB:s, including mouse, my DVD drive and so on.... then i plugged nvision emitter and it started to work, then i plugged everything back to USB slots, and whatte heck, it still did work! :D
My IR emitter did flicker ON/OFF in 3D mode, same time as glasses did.
I were thinking that it has to be some power problem with usb. i just removed every machine using USB:s, including mouse, my DVD drive and so on.... then i plugged nvision emitter and it started to work, then i plugged everything back to USB slots, and whatte heck, it still did work! :D
- I get flickers only when playing Modern Warfare 2. No other game. It's the game that makes my graphics card work the most.
- I flicker only when my framerate drops a bit.
- Changing my environment settings in the 3D wizard changes my problem, doesn't fix it. (flickers more, but more subltely...weird)
- I think I can't run games in 3D if my framerate isn't at least 60fps (meaning I run the game fine and enough resources are given to all the peripherals I use.)
EDIT: - Battlefield Bad Company 2 doesn't run at a smoothly 60 fps all the time here, but still retains its perfect synch betwen the IR box and the glasses all the time.
My guess (based on experience and other users input):
- It definitely has to do with resources: the more demanding the game, the more juice it uses up leaving less for the USB ports. Hence the disabling SLI fix... less juice used for other graphics card, more juice given to the USB devices.
- Some games probably ask more from your USB devices (such as an Xbox360 controller) with vibrations and response times so it varies from one game to another.
- I'm also guessing that changing the environment settings (Nvidia 3D wizard) actually changes the signal update rate of the IR box. Probably lowering it (to avoid interfering with other IR devices) so it uses less resources and therefore stays in synch with the glasses more easily because of the less frequent updates.
My solution:
- Make sure you have a powerful enough power supply that can give enough resources to both your graphics cards and USB ports.
- Make sure you have a powerful enough CPU + GPU combination that can run your game properly. (60 fps or higher)
- Through mouse control panel: lower your mouse response rate.
- Unplug unwanted USB devices such as external hard drives and web cams...
- Make sure IR box is plugged in a fast 2.0 USB port.
- Do not place the IR box in a way that the Nvidia logo faces you, make sure the side of the box is facing you. (the Nvidia button actually blocks the signal...don't bother...)
Hope this helps some users.
MQ
- I get flickers only when playing Modern Warfare 2. No other game. It's the game that makes my graphics card work the most.
- I flicker only when my framerate drops a bit.
- Changing my environment settings in the 3D wizard changes my problem, doesn't fix it. (flickers more, but more subltely...weird)
- I think I can't run games in 3D if my framerate isn't at least 60fps (meaning I run the game fine and enough resources are given to all the peripherals I use.)
EDIT: - Battlefield Bad Company 2 doesn't run at a smoothly 60 fps all the time here, but still retains its perfect synch betwen the IR box and the glasses all the time.
My guess (based on experience and other users input):
- It definitely has to do with resources: the more demanding the game, the more juice it uses up leaving less for the USB ports. Hence the disabling SLI fix... less juice used for other graphics card, more juice given to the USB devices.
- Some games probably ask more from your USB devices (such as an Xbox360 controller) with vibrations and response times so it varies from one game to another.
- I'm also guessing that changing the environment settings (Nvidia 3D wizard) actually changes the signal update rate of the IR box. Probably lowering it (to avoid interfering with other IR devices) so it uses less resources and therefore stays in synch with the glasses more easily because of the less frequent updates.
My solution:
- Make sure you have a powerful enough power supply that can give enough resources to both your graphics cards and USB ports.
- Make sure you have a powerful enough CPU + GPU combination that can run your game properly. (60 fps or higher)
- Through mouse control panel: lower your mouse response rate.
- Unplug unwanted USB devices such as external hard drives and web cams...
- Make sure IR box is plugged in a fast 2.0 USB port.
- Do not place the IR box in a way that the Nvidia logo faces you, make sure the side of the box is facing you. (the Nvidia button actually blocks the signal...don't bother...)
Hope this helps some users.
MQ
- I get flickers only when playing Modern Warfare 2. No other game. It's the game that makes my graphics card work the most.
- I flicker only when my framerate drops a bit.
- Changing my environment settings in the 3D wizard changes my problem, doesn't fix it. (flickers more, but more subltely...weird)
- I think I can't run games in 3D if my framerate isn't at least 60fps (meaning I run the game fine and enough resources are given to all the peripherals I use.)
EDIT: - Battlefield Bad Company 2 doesn't run at a smoothly 60 fps all the time here, but still retains its perfect synch betwen the IR box and the glasses all the time.
My guess (based on experience and other users input):
- It definitely has to do with resources: the more demanding the game, the more juice it uses up leaving less for the USB ports. Hence the disabling SLI fix... less juice used for other graphics card, more juice given to the USB devices.
- Some games probably ask more from your USB devices (such as an Xbox360 controller) with vibrations and response times so it varies from one game to another.
- I'm also guessing that changing the environment settings (Nvidia 3D wizard) actually changes the signal update rate of the IR box. Probably lowering it (to avoid interfering with other IR devices) so it uses less resources and therefore stays in synch with the glasses more easily because of the less frequent updates.
My solution:
- Make sure you have a powerful enough power supply that can give enough resources to both your graphics cards and USB ports.
- Make sure you have a powerful enough CPU + GPU combination that can run your game properly. (60 fps or higher)
- Through mouse control panel: lower your mouse response rate.
- Unplug unwanted USB devices such as external hard drives and web cams...
- Make sure IR box is plugged in a fast 2.0 USB port.
- Do not place the IR box in a way that the Nvidia logo faces you, make sure the side of the box is facing you. (the Nvidia button actually blocks the signal...don't bother...)
Hope this helps some users.
MQ
- I get flickers only when playing Modern Warfare 2. No other game. It's the game that makes my graphics card work the most.
- I flicker only when my framerate drops a bit.
- Changing my environment settings in the 3D wizard changes my problem, doesn't fix it. (flickers more, but more subltely...weird)
- I think I can't run games in 3D if my framerate isn't at least 60fps (meaning I run the game fine and enough resources are given to all the peripherals I use.)
EDIT: - Battlefield Bad Company 2 doesn't run at a smoothly 60 fps all the time here, but still retains its perfect synch betwen the IR box and the glasses all the time.
My guess (based on experience and other users input):
- It definitely has to do with resources: the more demanding the game, the more juice it uses up leaving less for the USB ports. Hence the disabling SLI fix... less juice used for other graphics card, more juice given to the USB devices.
- Some games probably ask more from your USB devices (such as an Xbox360 controller) with vibrations and response times so it varies from one game to another.
- I'm also guessing that changing the environment settings (Nvidia 3D wizard) actually changes the signal update rate of the IR box. Probably lowering it (to avoid interfering with other IR devices) so it uses less resources and therefore stays in synch with the glasses more easily because of the less frequent updates.
My solution:
- Make sure you have a powerful enough power supply that can give enough resources to both your graphics cards and USB ports.
- Make sure you have a powerful enough CPU + GPU combination that can run your game properly. (60 fps or higher)
- Through mouse control panel: lower your mouse response rate.
- Unplug unwanted USB devices such as external hard drives and web cams...
- Make sure IR box is plugged in a fast 2.0 USB port.
- Do not place the IR box in a way that the Nvidia logo faces you, make sure the side of the box is facing you. (the Nvidia button actually blocks the signal...don't bother...)
Hope this helps some users.
MQ
I didn't install programs, and it was everything ok before.
waiting for respond from support, may be i should return my glasses to the shop?
i watched in 3d and played since june
in 2 days i'll test it on my laptop
problem solved by deleting 1 free game - russian fishing
I didn't install programs, and it was everything ok before.
waiting for respond from support, may be i should return my glasses to the shop?
i watched in 3d and played since june
in 2 days i'll test it on my laptop
problem solved by deleting 1 free game - russian fishing
I didn't install programs, and it was everything ok before.
waiting for respond from support, may be i should return my glasses to the shop?
i watched in 3d and played since june
in 2 days i'll test it on my laptop
problem solved by deleting 1 free game - russian fishing
I didn't install programs, and it was everything ok before.
waiting for respond from support, may be i should return my glasses to the shop?
i watched in 3d and played since june
in 2 days i'll test it on my laptop
problem solved by deleting 1 free game - russian fishing
Everyone install it!
Everyone install it!
Everyone install it!
Everyone install it!
Better luck next time!
Better luck next time!
Better luck next time!
Better luck next time!