Not me. All I can offer are suggesstions:
-have you tried charging from a different usb slot?
-have you tried charging from an android smartphone charger (ie. microUSB) charger that connects directly to the wall power socket?
-have you tried charging from a different usb slot?
-have you tried charging from an android smartphone charger (ie. microUSB) charger that connects directly to the wall power socket?
This happened to me as well. I have one set of glasses that will no longer charge at all. They still work fine as long I plug them into USB so that they get power, and thus are wired, but still good for a third viewer.
Careful- it is possible to kill the battery.
What happened in my case was that I had them plugged into a powered USB hub to charge. When the hub power was disconnected overnight, that apparently then used the glasses battery to power the hub until it drained the battery in the glasses. Once the battery is too low, the internal charging system refuses to put any juice into it because it thinks the battery shorted.
When I plug them in the LED flashes green then red, then stays red.
This happened to me as well. I have one set of glasses that will no longer charge at all. They still work fine as long I plug them into USB so that they get power, and thus are wired, but still good for a third viewer.
Careful- it is possible to kill the battery.
What happened in my case was that I had them plugged into a powered USB hub to charge. When the hub power was disconnected overnight, that apparently then used the glasses battery to power the hub until it drained the battery in the glasses. Once the battery is too low, the internal charging system refuses to put any juice into it because it thinks the battery shorted.
When I plug them in the LED flashes green then red, then stays red.
Acer H5360 (1280x720@120Hz) - ASUS VG248QE with GSync mod - 3D Vision 1&2 - Driver 372.54
GTX 970 - i5-4670K@4.2GHz - 12GB RAM - Win7x64+evilKB2670838 - 4 Disk X25 RAID
SAGER NP9870-S - GTX 980 - i7-6700K - Win10 Pro 1607 Latest 3Dmigoto Release Bo3b's School for ShaderHackers
I had the same problem.
I thought that the battery was dead in a pair. I ordered 2 batteries (one for spare to have)
After I opened them I noticed that one of the wires was cut (because of the arm's flipping which eventually cut the cable) I changed that little wire, re-soldered everything and voila...the battery was still working and OK:))
But, if your battery is dead...you can easily find a new one (and very cheap around 1-2 USD/Pounds/Euro) and replace it yourself;))
I thought that the battery was dead in a pair. I ordered 2 batteries (one for spare to have)
After I opened them I noticed that one of the wires was cut (because of the arm's flipping which eventually cut the cable) I changed that little wire, re-soldered everything and voila...the battery was still working and OK:))
But, if your battery is dead...you can easily find a new one (and very cheap around 1-2 USD/Pounds/Euro) and replace it yourself;))
1x Palit RTX 2080Ti Pro Gaming OC(watercooled and overclocked to hell)
3x 3D Vision Ready Asus VG278HE monitors (5760x1080).
Intel i9 9900K (overclocked to 5.3 and watercooled ofc).
Asus Maximus XI Hero Mobo.
16 GB Team Group T-Force Dark Pro DDR4 @ 3600.
Lots of Disks:
- Raid 0 - 256GB Sandisk Extreme SSD.
- Raid 0 - WD Black - 2TB.
- SanDisk SSD PLUS 480 GB.
- Intel 760p 256GB M.2 PCIe NVMe SSD.
Creative Sound Blaster Z.
Windows 10 x64 Pro.
etc
[quote="Cookybiscuit"]Didn't you guys know Nvidia replace them for nothing?[/quote]Even out of warranty? Mine were 2.5 years old when I had the hub incident.
More details:
[url]http://3dvision-blog.com/350-3d-vision-glasses-might-have-a-battery-charging-issue/[/url]
Huh, I'm not sure about that then. I had one of the lenses go screwy (sorted itself out), they offered to straight up replace it but when I gave them my address they said it would be done through the store I bought from.
Huh, I'm not sure about that then. I had one of the lenses go screwy (sorted itself out), they offered to straight up replace it but when I gave them my address they said it would be done through the store I bought from.
Well I´m a Sony 3D TV User and this are my manual instructions: Do not charge the 3D glasses with anything other than a Sony 3D TV.
I thought that that was alot of BS but who knows?
Well I´m a Sony 3D TV User and this are my manual instructions: Do not charge the 3D glasses with anything other than a Sony 3D TV.
I thought that that was alot of BS but who knows?
Volnaiskra, I've already tried those two options, but the result is the same as bo3b said. They just work when they're plugged...
I think I'll try to change the batteries,because it's out of warranty anyway
Volnaiskra, I've already tried those two options, but the result is the same as bo3b said. They just work when they're plugged...
I think I'll try to change the batteries,because it's out of warranty anyway
You might be able to jump-start the battery like 3DVision-blog suggests. If you can get a little bit of juice into the battery, the charging circuit might accept the battery.
For what it's worth though, I'm fairly handy and can even do micro-soldering, but I was unable to get the battery connector disconnected without damaging the wires. Motivation was somewhat lacking since it's a backup set, but just know that these are hard to work on.
You might be able to jump-start the battery like 3DVision-blog suggests. If you can get a little bit of juice into the battery, the charging circuit might accept the battery.
For what it's worth though, I'm fairly handy and can even do micro-soldering, but I was unable to get the battery connector disconnected without damaging the wires. Motivation was somewhat lacking since it's a backup set, but just know that these are hard to work on.
Acer H5360 (1280x720@120Hz) - ASUS VG248QE with GSync mod - 3D Vision 1&2 - Driver 372.54
GTX 970 - i5-4670K@4.2GHz - 12GB RAM - Win7x64+evilKB2670838 - 4 Disk X25 RAID
SAGER NP9870-S - GTX 980 - i7-6700K - Win10 Pro 1607 Latest 3Dmigoto Release Bo3b's School for ShaderHackers
[quote="bo3b"]You might be able to jump-start the battery like 3DVision-blog suggests. If you can get a little bit of juice into the battery, the charging circuit might accept the battery.
For what it's worth though, I'm fairly handy and can even do micro-soldering, but I was unable to get the battery connector disconnected without damaging the wires. Motivation was somewhat lacking since it's a backup set, but just know that these are hard to work on.[/quote]
Ah yes;)) You need a micro engineering screwdriver (like the ones used in for wrist watches/clocks) and you need to take your time easily and gently detaching it.
I had more trouble connecting it back though:)) Another thing I had to do was to remove the little metal pole holding the right glass arm /bracket in order for me to be able to work there;))
bo3b said:You might be able to jump-start the battery like 3DVision-blog suggests. If you can get a little bit of juice into the battery, the charging circuit might accept the battery.
For what it's worth though, I'm fairly handy and can even do micro-soldering, but I was unable to get the battery connector disconnected without damaging the wires. Motivation was somewhat lacking since it's a backup set, but just know that these are hard to work on.
Ah yes;)) You need a micro engineering screwdriver (like the ones used in for wrist watches/clocks) and you need to take your time easily and gently detaching it.
I had more trouble connecting it back though:)) Another thing I had to do was to remove the little metal pole holding the right glass arm /bracket in order for me to be able to work there;))
1x Palit RTX 2080Ti Pro Gaming OC(watercooled and overclocked to hell)
3x 3D Vision Ready Asus VG278HE monitors (5760x1080).
Intel i9 9900K (overclocked to 5.3 and watercooled ofc).
Asus Maximus XI Hero Mobo.
16 GB Team Group T-Force Dark Pro DDR4 @ 3600.
Lots of Disks:
- Raid 0 - 256GB Sandisk Extreme SSD.
- Raid 0 - WD Black - 2TB.
- SanDisk SSD PLUS 480 GB.
- Intel 760p 256GB M.2 PCIe NVMe SSD.
Creative Sound Blaster Z.
Windows 10 x64 Pro.
etc
[quote="bo3b"]What happened in my case was that I had them plugged into a powered USB hub to charge. When the hub power was disconnected overnight, that apparently then used the glasses battery to power the hub until it drained the battery in the glasses. Once the battery is too low, the internal charging system refuses to put any juice into it because it thinks the battery shorted.[/quote]That's nuts. What a rude USB hub!
bo3b said:What happened in my case was that I had them plugged into a powered USB hub to charge. When the hub power was disconnected overnight, that apparently then used the glasses battery to power the hub until it drained the battery in the glasses. Once the battery is too low, the internal charging system refuses to put any juice into it because it thinks the battery shorted.
Happened to me once. It didn't charge, and only worked while connected to the USB cable. After sometime, not even this made it work and I couldn't use it anymore.
The way I "fixed" it was buying another pair of glasses.
Happened to me once. It didn't charge, and only worked while connected to the USB cable. After sometime, not even this made it work and I couldn't use it anymore.
The way I "fixed" it was buying another pair of glasses.
-have you tried charging from a different usb slot?
-have you tried charging from an android smartphone charger (ie. microUSB) charger that connects directly to the wall power socket?
Careful- it is possible to kill the battery.
What happened in my case was that I had them plugged into a powered USB hub to charge. When the hub power was disconnected overnight, that apparently then used the glasses battery to power the hub until it drained the battery in the glasses. Once the battery is too low, the internal charging system refuses to put any juice into it because it thinks the battery shorted.
When I plug them in the LED flashes green then red, then stays red.
Acer H5360 (1280x720@120Hz) - ASUS VG248QE with GSync mod - 3D Vision 1&2 - Driver 372.54
GTX 970 - i5-4670K@4.2GHz - 12GB RAM - Win7x64+evilKB2670838 - 4 Disk X25 RAID
SAGER NP9870-S - GTX 980 - i7-6700K - Win10 Pro 1607
Latest 3Dmigoto Release
Bo3b's School for ShaderHackers
I thought that the battery was dead in a pair. I ordered 2 batteries (one for spare to have)
After I opened them I noticed that one of the wires was cut (because of the arm's flipping which eventually cut the cable) I changed that little wire, re-soldered everything and voila...the battery was still working and OK:))
But, if your battery is dead...you can easily find a new one (and very cheap around 1-2 USD/Pounds/Euro) and replace it yourself;))
1x Palit RTX 2080Ti Pro Gaming OC(watercooled and overclocked to hell)
3x 3D Vision Ready Asus VG278HE monitors (5760x1080).
Intel i9 9900K (overclocked to 5.3 and watercooled ofc).
Asus Maximus XI Hero Mobo.
16 GB Team Group T-Force Dark Pro DDR4 @ 3600.
Lots of Disks:
- Raid 0 - 256GB Sandisk Extreme SSD.
- Raid 0 - WD Black - 2TB.
- SanDisk SSD PLUS 480 GB.
- Intel 760p 256GB M.2 PCIe NVMe SSD.
Creative Sound Blaster Z.
Windows 10 x64 Pro.
etc
My website with my fixes and OpenGL to 3D Vision wrapper:
http://3dsurroundgaming.com
(If you like some of the stuff that I've done and want to donate something, you can do it with PayPal at tavyhome@gmail.com)
More details:
http://3dvision-blog.com/350-3d-vision-glasses-might-have-a-battery-charging-issue/
Acer H5360 (1280x720@120Hz) - ASUS VG248QE with GSync mod - 3D Vision 1&2 - Driver 372.54
GTX 970 - i5-4670K@4.2GHz - 12GB RAM - Win7x64+evilKB2670838 - 4 Disk X25 RAID
SAGER NP9870-S - GTX 980 - i7-6700K - Win10 Pro 1607
Latest 3Dmigoto Release
Bo3b's School for ShaderHackers
I thought that that was alot of BS but who knows?
I think I'll try to change the batteries,because it's out of warranty anyway
For what it's worth though, I'm fairly handy and can even do micro-soldering, but I was unable to get the battery connector disconnected without damaging the wires. Motivation was somewhat lacking since it's a backup set, but just know that these are hard to work on.
Acer H5360 (1280x720@120Hz) - ASUS VG248QE with GSync mod - 3D Vision 1&2 - Driver 372.54
GTX 970 - i5-4670K@4.2GHz - 12GB RAM - Win7x64+evilKB2670838 - 4 Disk X25 RAID
SAGER NP9870-S - GTX 980 - i7-6700K - Win10 Pro 1607
Latest 3Dmigoto Release
Bo3b's School for ShaderHackers
Ah yes;)) You need a micro engineering screwdriver (like the ones used in for wrist watches/clocks) and you need to take your time easily and gently detaching it.
I had more trouble connecting it back though:)) Another thing I had to do was to remove the little metal pole holding the right glass arm /bracket in order for me to be able to work there;))
1x Palit RTX 2080Ti Pro Gaming OC(watercooled and overclocked to hell)
3x 3D Vision Ready Asus VG278HE monitors (5760x1080).
Intel i9 9900K (overclocked to 5.3 and watercooled ofc).
Asus Maximus XI Hero Mobo.
16 GB Team Group T-Force Dark Pro DDR4 @ 3600.
Lots of Disks:
- Raid 0 - 256GB Sandisk Extreme SSD.
- Raid 0 - WD Black - 2TB.
- SanDisk SSD PLUS 480 GB.
- Intel 760p 256GB M.2 PCIe NVMe SSD.
Creative Sound Blaster Z.
Windows 10 x64 Pro.
etc
My website with my fixes and OpenGL to 3D Vision wrapper:
http://3dsurroundgaming.com
(If you like some of the stuff that I've done and want to donate something, you can do it with PayPal at tavyhome@gmail.com)
Acer H5360 (1280x720@120Hz) - ASUS VG248QE with GSync mod - 3D Vision 1&2 - Driver 372.54
GTX 970 - i5-4670K@4.2GHz - 12GB RAM - Win7x64+evilKB2670838 - 4 Disk X25 RAID
SAGER NP9870-S - GTX 980 - i7-6700K - Win10 Pro 1607
Latest 3Dmigoto Release
Bo3b's School for ShaderHackers
The way I "fixed" it was buying another pair of glasses.