[img]http://pub.paran.com/pyk123/3dvision/3.JPG[/img]
I was very happy :rolleyes:
after i had done it
[b]I thought that durability of 3dvision were little bit poor [/b][size="3"][/size]/whistling.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':whistling:' />
Well done mate, very good and as you said you dident have to wait forever to get them fixed :D
Agreee that they must have don a sloppy job on the soldering their bums LOL
BTW, do you have the Samsung 2233RZ Monitor and if so have you ever seen any ghosting when gaming in 3D?
[quote name='PixelPerfect' post='535395' date='Apr 28 2009, 02:31 PM']Well done mate, very good and as you said you dident have to wait forever to get them fixed :D
Agreee that they must have don a sloppy job on the soldering their bums LOL
BTW, do you have the Samsung 2233RZ Monitor and if so have you ever seen any ghosting when gaming in 3D?[/quote]
i`m sorry i don`t have 2233 monitor
I`m a CRT user
But
may be
i think that 2233RZ is not free of ghosting issue too
[quote name='PixelPerfect' post='535395' date='Apr 28 2009, 02:31 PM']Well done mate, very good and as you said you dident have to wait forever to get them fixed :D
Agreee that they must have don a sloppy job on the soldering their bums LOL
BTW, do you have the Samsung 2233RZ Monitor and if so have you ever seen any ghosting when gaming in 3D?
i`m sorry i don`t have 2233 monitor
I`m a CRT user
But
may be
i think that 2233RZ is not free of ghosting issue too
I opened up my glasses too ...as I had the same issue with no power. The only difference with mine, was that the wires from the battery to the glasses, came out of the white plug (Behind the right lens). My wires were still attached to the battery and the wiring was with the black cable to the middle terminal.
There are ICU's under the terminals, which (In the above picture), may damage the battery, if wired incorrectly.
Unfortunately my glasses shorted out prior to me opening it ... even after re-soldering onto the plug, the glasses only power up now with the following LED combo .... Red green green, Red green green..... but thats all it does now.
I opened up my glasses too ...as I had the same issue with no power. The only difference with mine, was that the wires from the battery to the glasses, came out of the white plug (Behind the right lens). My wires were still attached to the battery and the wiring was with the black cable to the middle terminal.
There are ICU's under the terminals, which (In the above picture), may damage the battery, if wired incorrectly.
Unfortunately my glasses shorted out prior to me opening it ... even after re-soldering onto the plug, the glasses only power up now with the following LED combo .... Red green green, Red green green..... but thats all it does now.
[quote name='Zoolicious' post='544112' date='May 22 2009, 02:28 PM']Unfortunately my glasses shorted out prior to me opening it ... even after re-soldering onto the plug, the glasses only power up now with the following LED combo .... Red green green, Red green green..... but thats all it does now.
Works well as a 3D paper weight !!!![/quote]
too bad but it could be that just the LiIon protection was triggered. You could try to reactivate the battery by "hot-charging" it. For this you need to apply nominavoltage shortly directly to the pins of the battery. I have seen digi-cams brought back to live by this and, hey, there's not much to loose, right?
[quote name='Zoolicious' post='544112' date='May 22 2009, 02:28 PM']Unfortunately my glasses shorted out prior to me opening it ... even after re-soldering onto the plug, the glasses only power up now with the following LED combo .... Red green green, Red green green..... but thats all it does now.
Works well as a 3D paper weight !!!!
too bad but it could be that just the LiIon protection was triggered. You could try to reactivate the battery by "hot-charging" it. For this you need to apply nominavoltage shortly directly to the pins of the battery. I have seen digi-cams brought back to live by this and, hey, there's not much to loose, right?
My glasses don't seem to charge and the charge led doesn't work, so I opened up the other side, but I have no idea what I'm looking for. Only, now when I press the button it won't even blink red anymore, so i was wondering about the battery, so I opened that side as well. Turns out, on my unit the black wire is soldered to the middle terminal and the red one on the right terminal. So much for consistency...
EDIT: If I try to measure with a multimeter over the terminals, I actually get 0 between the middle and right terminal, whereas both middle and left or left and right give 2.7V. Still don't know what I'm doing though.
My glasses don't seem to charge and the charge led doesn't work, so I opened up the other side, but I have no idea what I'm looking for. Only, now when I press the button it won't even blink red anymore, so i was wondering about the battery, so I opened that side as well. Turns out, on my unit the black wire is soldered to the middle terminal and the red one on the right terminal. So much for consistency...
EDIT: If I try to measure with a multimeter over the terminals, I actually get 0 between the middle and right terminal, whereas both middle and left or left and right give 2.7V. Still don't know what I'm doing though.
[quote name='Xerion404' post='544754' date='May 24 2009, 11:55 AM']EDIT: If I try to measure with a multimeter over the terminals, I actually get 0 between the middle and right terminal, whereas both middle and left or left and right give 2.7V. Still don't know what I'm doing though.[/quote]
Just solder the black and red wires to the same place as the successful 2.7v voltameter test.
[quote name='Xerion404' post='544754' date='May 24 2009, 11:55 AM']EDIT: If I try to measure with a multimeter over the terminals, I actually get 0 between the middle and right terminal, whereas both middle and left or left and right give 2.7V. Still don't know what I'm doing though.
Just solder the black and red wires to the same place as the successful 2.7v voltameter test.
1x Intel S5000Xvn Mainboard
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1x EVGA GTX480
8x 2GB FB-DIMM 667 (16GB)
2x 64GB Corsair M4 SSDs in RAID0 (System)
4x 1TB SATA2 64MB Cache Western Digital Black's in RAID0 (Storage)
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1x DVD-RW
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I had a big problem in my 3dvision
3d glasses did not work :wacko:
The light of LED didn`t turn on
[img]http://pub.paran.com/pyk123/3dvision/4.JPG[/img]
Oh my god!
I have lived in Asia
I have to send it to America to fix it
It takes about more than 1 months
(about 50 days.....)
so i decided to fix it myself :blink:
I am a electronic engineer
I opened cover and looked into the glasses
finally i found the reason
The two lines connected to the battery were cut
[img]http://pub.paran.com/pyk123/3dvision/8.JPG[/img]
before soldering I wraped the glasses to prevent from scratching
[img]http://pub.paran.com/pyk123/3dvision/2.JPG[/img]
I reconnected the line by soldering
[img]http://pub.paran.com/pyk123/3dvision/1.JPG[/img]
[img]http://pub.paran.com/pyk123/3dvision/5.JPG[/img]
then
finally the glasses did work again
[img]http://pub.paran.com/pyk123/3dvision/3.JPG[/img]
I was very happy :rolleyes:
after i had done it
[b]I thought that durability of 3dvision were little bit poor [/b][size="3"][/size]
i,m sorry i`m not good at english :rolleyes:
I had a big problem in my 3dvision
3d glasses did not work :wacko:
The light of LED didn`t turn on
Oh my god!
I have lived in Asia
I have to send it to America to fix it
It takes about more than 1 months
(about 50 days.....)
so i decided to fix it myself :blink:
I am a electronic engineer
I opened cover and looked into the glasses
finally i found the reason
The two lines connected to the battery were cut
before soldering I wraped the glasses to prevent from scratching
I reconnected the line by soldering
then
finally the glasses did work again
I was very happy :rolleyes:
after i had done it
I thought that durability of 3dvision were little bit poor
i,m sorry i`m not good at english :rolleyes:
i7 8700K @4.9
GTX1080Ti
Asrock Z370 Gamming K6
Windows10 64bit
LG OLED UHD 3dtv 55E6K
Agreee that they must have don a sloppy job on the soldering their bums LOL
BTW, do you have the Samsung 2233RZ Monitor and if so have you ever seen any ghosting when gaming in 3D?
Agreee that they must have don a sloppy job on the soldering their bums LOL
BTW, do you have the Samsung 2233RZ Monitor and if so have you ever seen any ghosting when gaming in 3D?
Agreee that they must have don a sloppy job on the soldering their bums LOL
BTW, do you have the Samsung 2233RZ Monitor and if so have you ever seen any ghosting when gaming in 3D?[/quote]
i`m sorry i don`t have 2233 monitor
I`m a CRT user
But
may be
i think that 2233RZ is not free of ghosting issue too
[b]http://forums.nvidia.com/index.php?showtopic=91230&hl=ghosting[/b]
according to the replys
many peoples say so! :rolleyes:
Agreee that they must have don a sloppy job on the soldering their bums LOL
BTW, do you have the Samsung 2233RZ Monitor and if so have you ever seen any ghosting when gaming in 3D?
i`m sorry i don`t have 2233 monitor
I`m a CRT user
But
may be
i think that 2233RZ is not free of ghosting issue too
http://forums.nvidia.com/index.php?showtopic=91230&hl=ghosting
according to the replys
many peoples say so! :rolleyes:
i7 8700K @4.9
GTX1080Ti
Asrock Z370 Gamming K6
Windows10 64bit
LG OLED UHD 3dtv 55E6K
so how exactly did that wire get cut in the first place?
so how exactly did that wire get cut in the first place?
so how exactly did that wire get cut in the first place?[/quote]
open and fold legs of glasses frequently
then it branch off from solder by itself
especially right legs is so
The type of the line of left side was made by film type
so the possibility will be rare
but right side isn`t
it is very weak
so how exactly did that wire get cut in the first place?
open and fold legs of glasses frequently
then it branch off from solder by itself
especially right legs is so
The type of the line of left side was made by film type
so the possibility will be rare
but right side isn`t
it is very weak
i7 8700K @4.9
GTX1080Ti
Asrock Z370 Gamming K6
Windows10 64bit
LG OLED UHD 3dtv 55E6K
then it branch off from solder by itself
especially right legs is so
The type of the line of left side was made by film type
so the possibility will be rare
but right side isn`t
it is very weak[/quote]
Interesting. Something to watch out for (I doubt I'd have much luck fixing it myself lol). Thanks :)
then it branch off from solder by itself
especially right legs is so
The type of the line of left side was made by film type
so the possibility will be rare
but right side isn`t
it is very weak
Interesting. Something to watch out for (I doubt I'd have much luck fixing it myself lol). Thanks :)
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3D:100" passive projector polarized setup + 22" IZ3D
Stereodrivers: Iz3d & Tridef ignition and nvidia old school.
Thanks for posting this as I'm sure it will come in handy for others in the future.
Thanks for posting this as I'm sure it will come in handy for others in the future.
1x Intel S5000Xvn Mainboard
2x Quad 2.66GHz Xeons (X5355, 8 Cores)
1x EVGA GTX480
8x 2GB FB-DIMM 667 (16GB)
2x 64GB Corsair M4 SSDs in RAID0 (System)
4x 1TB SATA2 64MB Cache Western Digital Black's in RAID0 (Storage)
1x Sound Blaster X-Fi Elite Pro
1x BD-ROM
1x DVD-RW
1x Antec High Current Pro HCP-1200 1200W Power Supply
1x Dell 30" 2560x1600 LCD
1x Samsung 22" 120hz GeForce 3D Vision Display
1x APC 1500VAC SmartUPS Battery Backup
1x Windows 7 Professional 64-Bit
I would have never attempted myself, but good to know if I have problems later.
Nice work!
I would have never attempted myself, but good to know if I have problems later.
Nice work!
Windows 10 x64 Pro
1 x 980 GTX
3D Vision on 65" DLP
This is incorrect soldering.
I opened up my glasses too ...as I had the same issue with no power. The only difference with mine, was that the wires from the battery to the glasses, came out of the white plug (Behind the right lens). My wires were still attached to the battery and the wiring was with the black cable to the middle terminal.
There are ICU's under the terminals, which (In the above picture), may damage the battery, if wired incorrectly.
Unfortunately my glasses shorted out prior to me opening it ... even after re-soldering onto the plug, the glasses only power up now with the following LED combo .... Red green green, Red green green..... but thats all it does now.
Works well as a 3D paper weight !!!!
This is incorrect soldering.
I opened up my glasses too ...as I had the same issue with no power. The only difference with mine, was that the wires from the battery to the glasses, came out of the white plug (Behind the right lens). My wires were still attached to the battery and the wiring was with the black cable to the middle terminal.
There are ICU's under the terminals, which (In the above picture), may damage the battery, if wired incorrectly.
Unfortunately my glasses shorted out prior to me opening it ... even after re-soldering onto the plug, the glasses only power up now with the following LED combo .... Red green green, Red green green..... but thats all it does now.
Works well as a 3D paper weight !!!!
Works well as a 3D paper weight !!!![/quote]
too bad but it could be that just the LiIon protection was triggered. You could try to reactivate the battery by "hot-charging" it. For this you need to apply nominavoltage shortly directly to the pins of the battery. I have seen digi-cams brought back to live by this and, hey, there's not much to loose, right?
Good luck!
Works well as a 3D paper weight !!!!
too bad but it could be that just the LiIon protection was triggered. You could try to reactivate the battery by "hot-charging" it. For this you need to apply nominavoltage shortly directly to the pins of the battery. I have seen digi-cams brought back to live by this and, hey, there's not much to loose, right?
Good luck!
EDIT: If I try to measure with a multimeter over the terminals, I actually get 0 between the middle and right terminal, whereas both middle and left or left and right give 2.7V. Still don't know what I'm doing though.
EDIT: If I try to measure with a multimeter over the terminals, I actually get 0 between the middle and right terminal, whereas both middle and left or left and right give 2.7V. Still don't know what I'm doing though.
Current Rig: |Intel Core i7 920 @ 3.6GHz, EVGA X58 Classified 4-way SLI, 6 GB ram, Geforce GTX670| -> |Acer H5360 + Nvidia 3D Vision|
Just solder the black and red wires to the same place as the successful 2.7v voltameter test.
Just solder the black and red wires to the same place as the successful 2.7v voltameter test.
1x Intel S5000Xvn Mainboard
2x Quad 2.66GHz Xeons (X5355, 8 Cores)
1x EVGA GTX480
8x 2GB FB-DIMM 667 (16GB)
2x 64GB Corsair M4 SSDs in RAID0 (System)
4x 1TB SATA2 64MB Cache Western Digital Black's in RAID0 (Storage)
1x Sound Blaster X-Fi Elite Pro
1x BD-ROM
1x DVD-RW
1x Antec High Current Pro HCP-1200 1200W Power Supply
1x Dell 30" 2560x1600 LCD
1x Samsung 22" 120hz GeForce 3D Vision Display
1x APC 1500VAC SmartUPS Battery Backup
1x Windows 7 Professional 64-Bit
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