Using NVIDIA Brightness, Contrast, Gamma to enhance visibility in games. Will this help you? vx2268w
I have:
[b]VX2268WM monitor[/b] with the following settings in DVI mode.
50% brightness
80% contrast
[b][size="4"]NVIDIA Control Panel [/size][/b]
I'm curious if anyone else is using this as I am? It helps a lot improving visibility in games that are just too dark. This part of the NVIDIA Control Panel is my best friend. I have different brightness, contrast and gamma settings for each game I play. When I'm browsing the internet, looking at images or any general desktop use my settings are like this. I'm sure I could tweak more but i'm happy where it's all at. [b]The point is that you can tweak if games are too dark.[/b]
[u]NVIDIA Control Panel[/u]
Brightness: +45%
Contrast: +45%
Gamma: 1.60
[i](Looks so much better since ME2 is pretty dark when it first starts)[/i]
[size="3"]When I play Mass Effect 1 & Dragon Age[/size]
Monitor kicks to 100% brightness
[u]NVIDIA Control Panel[/u]
Brightness: +35%
Contrast: +35%
Gamma: 1.35
These are not settings I recommend anyone to use since all monitors are different, but it gives you an example of how I use it to achieve better results depending on what game I'm playing.
[size="4"][b]In Game Gamma[/b][/size]
I'm not sure why but this bleeds out all the color from the game. I try not to use in game gamma at all and just leave it at default. I get better results with the control in the nvidia control panel.
Anyone else have different experiences or different methods? I'm curious what other people do to optimize a game if it's too dark or too bright, etc.
VX2268WM monitor with the following settings in DVI mode.
50% brightness
80% contrast
NVIDIA Control Panel
I'm curious if anyone else is using this as I am? It helps a lot improving visibility in games that are just too dark. This part of the NVIDIA Control Panel is my best friend. I have different brightness, contrast and gamma settings for each game I play. When I'm browsing the internet, looking at images or any general desktop use my settings are like this. I'm sure I could tweak more but i'm happy where it's all at. The point is that you can tweak if games are too dark.
When I play Mass Effect 2
Monitor kicks to 100% brightness
NVIDIA Control Panel
Brightness: +45%
Contrast: +45%
Gamma: 1.60
(Looks so much better since ME2 is pretty dark when it first starts)
When I play Mass Effect 1 & Dragon Age
Monitor kicks to 100% brightness
NVIDIA Control Panel
Brightness: +35%
Contrast: +35%
Gamma: 1.35
These are not settings I recommend anyone to use since all monitors are different, but it gives you an example of how I use it to achieve better results depending on what game I'm playing.
In Game Gamma
I'm not sure why but this bleeds out all the color from the game. I try not to use in game gamma at all and just leave it at default. I get better results with the control in the nvidia control panel.
Anyone else have different experiences or different methods? I'm curious what other people do to optimize a game if it's too dark or too bright, etc.
Oh yeah, i've been using the desktop color settings since I got the 3d vision, but for crosstalk reducing reasons, not so much for brightness. For my 2233rz, I have gamma about 1.2, bright at 50, and contrast at 40 percent on average. I do set it different for different games.
I find that if I make the contrast look a little grey-er, It reduces crosstalk quite significantly. But that also can depend on the game. Some games can utilize a nice high contrast without crosstalk. I'm sure the better the monitor the less one would have to make changes. 2233rz is first gen 120hz LCD, I never expected miracles LOL.
But, by the time I'm ready to buy another monitor, 5th gen better be crosstalk free! /happy.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':happy:' />
Oh yeah, i've been using the desktop color settings since I got the 3d vision, but for crosstalk reducing reasons, not so much for brightness. For my 2233rz, I have gamma about 1.2, bright at 50, and contrast at 40 percent on average. I do set it different for different games.
I find that if I make the contrast look a little grey-er, It reduces crosstalk quite significantly. But that also can depend on the game. Some games can utilize a nice high contrast without crosstalk. I'm sure the better the monitor the less one would have to make changes. 2233rz is first gen 120hz LCD, I never expected miracles LOL.
But, by the time I'm ready to buy another monitor, 5th gen better be crosstalk free! /happy.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':happy:' />
AsRock X58 Extreme6 mobo
Intel Core-i7 950 @ 4ghz
12gb Corsair Dominator DDR3 1600
ASUS DirectCU II GTX 780 3gb
Corsair TX 950w PSU
NZXT Phantom Red/Black Case
3d Vision 1 w/ Samsung 2233rz Monitor
3d Vision 2 w/ ASUS VG278HE Monitor
I had similar results when gaming with the old school drivers with e-dims and crt. Gamma affects darker regions first and increasing gamma helps improving visibility in those but make the image look "washed out". It's "almost" like decreasing contrast+increasing brightness. I recall i usually increased gamma a little (1.15 or something), decreased contrast "a tad" and increasing the brightness "a tad". Unfortunately i don't remember what figure i used for brightness/contrast. I usually did this to see at least something in very dark games...
The principle using shutterglasses and monitor eats a lot of light because:
1: First min 55% is gone through the glasses polarization. The polarizationloss can be decreased using already polarized displays like lcd's.
2: Sometimes with slow reactiontimes of the displays a lower duty cycle (shutterglasses on-time) must be used to decrease crosstalk due to timing.
3: The eyes have to share the remaining light.
Add all these parameters up and you'll end up with a poor transmissionrate.
Dlp's and crt's have quite quick responcetimes (crt's suffers a little from phosphorus afterglow) and can be used with close to 100% duty cycle (with this i mean that each shutterlense is open 50% of the time). Lcd's are already polarized but instead rectiontimes are poor and forces lower duty cycles. One advantage with shutters is that polarization of the glasses eats away min 55% of ambient light. One other advatage is biological: Less light means that eyes compensate for this by opening up the iris more thus making the image brighter.
The best thing when using dark displays/dark stereoscopy solutions is darkening the room as much as possible.
I had similar results when gaming with the old school drivers with e-dims and crt. Gamma affects darker regions first and increasing gamma helps improving visibility in those but make the image look "washed out". It's "almost" like decreasing contrast+increasing brightness. I recall i usually increased gamma a little (1.15 or something), decreased contrast "a tad" and increasing the brightness "a tad". Unfortunately i don't remember what figure i used for brightness/contrast. I usually did this to see at least something in very dark games...
The principle using shutterglasses and monitor eats a lot of light because:
1: First min 55% is gone through the glasses polarization. The polarizationloss can be decreased using already polarized displays like lcd's.
2: Sometimes with slow reactiontimes of the displays a lower duty cycle (shutterglasses on-time) must be used to decrease crosstalk due to timing.
3: The eyes have to share the remaining light.
Add all these parameters up and you'll end up with a poor transmissionrate.
Dlp's and crt's have quite quick responcetimes (crt's suffers a little from phosphorus afterglow) and can be used with close to 100% duty cycle (with this i mean that each shutterlense is open 50% of the time). Lcd's are already polarized but instead rectiontimes are poor and forces lower duty cycles. One advantage with shutters is that polarization of the glasses eats away min 55% of ambient light. One other advatage is biological: Less light means that eyes compensate for this by opening up the iris more thus making the image brighter.
The best thing when using dark displays/dark stereoscopy solutions is darkening the room as much as possible.
[quote name='tritosine' date='19 March 2011 - 08:45 PM' timestamp='1300563933' post='1210123']
neither CRT or DLP does that. Actually IDK if any display does that right now.
CRT has 1.5 ms hold time, that is 1/6 of a frame, and DLP has about 1/3, 1/2 .
They don't do it with DLP because rainbowing would be more apparent ( that is unnoticable right now) .
[/quote]Note that i did say "close to". /wink.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=';)' />
[b]VX2268WM monitor[/b] with the following settings in DVI mode.
50% brightness
80% contrast
[b][size="4"]NVIDIA Control Panel [/size][/b]
I'm curious if anyone else is using this as I am? It helps a lot improving visibility in games that are just too dark. This part of the NVIDIA Control Panel is my best friend. I have different brightness, contrast and gamma settings for each game I play. When I'm browsing the internet, looking at images or any general desktop use my settings are like this. I'm sure I could tweak more but i'm happy where it's all at. [b]The point is that you can tweak if games are too dark.[/b]
[img]http://img143.imageshack.us/img143/4069/nv2f.jpg[/img]
[size="3"]When I play Mass Effect 2[/size]
Monitor kicks to 100% brightness
[u]NVIDIA Control Panel[/u]
Brightness: +45%
Contrast: +45%
Gamma: 1.60
[i](Looks so much better since ME2 is pretty dark when it first starts)[/i]
[size="3"]When I play Mass Effect 1 & Dragon Age[/size]
Monitor kicks to 100% brightness
[u]NVIDIA Control Panel[/u]
Brightness: +35%
Contrast: +35%
Gamma: 1.35
These are not settings I recommend anyone to use since all monitors are different, but it gives you an example of how I use it to achieve better results depending on what game I'm playing.
[size="4"][b]In Game Gamma[/b][/size]
I'm not sure why but this bleeds out all the color from the game. I try not to use in game gamma at all and just leave it at default. I get better results with the control in the nvidia control panel.
Anyone else have different experiences or different methods? I'm curious what other people do to optimize a game if it's too dark or too bright, etc.
VX2268WM monitor with the following settings in DVI mode.
50% brightness
80% contrast
NVIDIA Control Panel
I'm curious if anyone else is using this as I am? It helps a lot improving visibility in games that are just too dark. This part of the NVIDIA Control Panel is my best friend. I have different brightness, contrast and gamma settings for each game I play. When I'm browsing the internet, looking at images or any general desktop use my settings are like this. I'm sure I could tweak more but i'm happy where it's all at. The point is that you can tweak if games are too dark.
When I play Mass Effect 2
Monitor kicks to 100% brightness
NVIDIA Control Panel
Brightness: +45%
Contrast: +45%
Gamma: 1.60
(Looks so much better since ME2 is pretty dark when it first starts)
When I play Mass Effect 1 & Dragon Age
Monitor kicks to 100% brightness
NVIDIA Control Panel
Brightness: +35%
Contrast: +35%
Gamma: 1.35
These are not settings I recommend anyone to use since all monitors are different, but it gives you an example of how I use it to achieve better results depending on what game I'm playing.
In Game Gamma
I'm not sure why but this bleeds out all the color from the game. I try not to use in game gamma at all and just leave it at default. I get better results with the control in the nvidia control panel.
Anyone else have different experiences or different methods? I'm curious what other people do to optimize a game if it's too dark or too bright, etc.
I find that if I make the contrast look a little grey-er, It reduces crosstalk quite significantly. But that also can depend on the game. Some games can utilize a nice high contrast without crosstalk. I'm sure the better the monitor the less one would have to make changes. 2233rz is first gen 120hz LCD, I never expected miracles LOL.
But, by the time I'm ready to buy another monitor, 5th gen better be crosstalk free!
I find that if I make the contrast look a little grey-er, It reduces crosstalk quite significantly. But that also can depend on the game. Some games can utilize a nice high contrast without crosstalk. I'm sure the better the monitor the less one would have to make changes. 2233rz is first gen 120hz LCD, I never expected miracles LOL.
But, by the time I'm ready to buy another monitor, 5th gen better be crosstalk free!
AsRock X58 Extreme6 mobo
Intel Core-i7 950 @ 4ghz
12gb Corsair Dominator DDR3 1600
ASUS DirectCU II GTX 780 3gb
Corsair TX 950w PSU
NZXT Phantom Red/Black Case
3d Vision 1 w/ Samsung 2233rz Monitor
3d Vision 2 w/ ASUS VG278HE Monitor
The principle using shutterglasses and monitor eats a lot of light because:
1: First min 55% is gone through the glasses polarization. The polarizationloss can be decreased using already polarized displays like lcd's.
2: Sometimes with slow reactiontimes of the displays a lower duty cycle (shutterglasses on-time) must be used to decrease crosstalk due to timing.
3: The eyes have to share the remaining light.
Add all these parameters up and you'll end up with a poor transmissionrate.
Dlp's and crt's have quite quick responcetimes (crt's suffers a little from phosphorus afterglow) and can be used with close to 100% duty cycle (with this i mean that each shutterlense is open 50% of the time). Lcd's are already polarized but instead rectiontimes are poor and forces lower duty cycles. One advantage with shutters is that polarization of the glasses eats away min 55% of ambient light. One other advatage is biological: Less light means that eyes compensate for this by opening up the iris more thus making the image brighter.
The best thing when using dark displays/dark stereoscopy solutions is darkening the room as much as possible.
The principle using shutterglasses and monitor eats a lot of light because:
1: First min 55% is gone through the glasses polarization. The polarizationloss can be decreased using already polarized displays like lcd's.
2: Sometimes with slow reactiontimes of the displays a lower duty cycle (shutterglasses on-time) must be used to decrease crosstalk due to timing.
3: The eyes have to share the remaining light.
Add all these parameters up and you'll end up with a poor transmissionrate.
Dlp's and crt's have quite quick responcetimes (crt's suffers a little from phosphorus afterglow) and can be used with close to 100% duty cycle (with this i mean that each shutterlense is open 50% of the time). Lcd's are already polarized but instead rectiontimes are poor and forces lower duty cycles. One advantage with shutters is that polarization of the glasses eats away min 55% of ambient light. One other advatage is biological: Less light means that eyes compensate for this by opening up the iris more thus making the image brighter.
The best thing when using dark displays/dark stereoscopy solutions is darkening the room as much as possible.
Mb: Asus P5W DH Deluxe
Cpu: C2D E6600
Gb: Nvidia 7900GT + 8800GTX
3D:100" passive projector polarized setup + 22" IZ3D
Stereodrivers: Iz3d & Tridef ignition and nvidia old school.
neither CRT or DLP does that. Actually IDK if any display does that right now.
CRT has 1.5 ms hold time, that is 1/6 of a frame, and DLP has about 1/3, 1/2 .
They don't do it with DLP because rainbowing would be more apparent ( that is unnoticable right now) .
neither CRT or DLP does that. Actually IDK if any display does that right now.
CRT has 1.5 ms hold time, that is 1/6 of a frame, and DLP has about 1/3, 1/2 .
They don't do it with DLP because rainbowing would be more apparent ( that is unnoticable right now) .
neither CRT or DLP does that. Actually IDK if any display does that right now.
CRT has 1.5 ms hold time, that is 1/6 of a frame, and DLP has about 1/3, 1/2 .
They don't do it with DLP because rainbowing would be more apparent ( that is unnoticable right now) .
[/quote]Note that i did say "close to".
neither CRT or DLP does that. Actually IDK if any display does that right now.
CRT has 1.5 ms hold time, that is 1/6 of a frame, and DLP has about 1/3, 1/2 .
They don't do it with DLP because rainbowing would be more apparent ( that is unnoticable right now) .
Note that i did say "close to".
Mb: Asus P5W DH Deluxe
Cpu: C2D E6600
Gb: Nvidia 7900GT + 8800GTX
3D:100" passive projector polarized setup + 22" IZ3D
Stereodrivers: Iz3d & Tridef ignition and nvidia old school.