3D Vision - Darkened image if shutters closed 50% of the time?
Hi I am thinking of buying the kit, but have a couple of questions.

1. As the shutters on the glasses open and close, the user will effectively be looking at just black for 50% of the time. Doesn't this cause the image quality to be seemingly darkened by 50%?

2. Where can i try the kit. I'm not happy buying it without seeing it in action for myself. I'm in the UK and no high-street stores stock it!

Thanks in advance.
Hi I am thinking of buying the kit, but have a couple of questions.



1. As the shutters on the glasses open and close, the user will effectively be looking at just black for 50% of the time. Doesn't this cause the image quality to be seemingly darkened by 50%?



2. Where can i try the kit. I'm not happy buying it without seeing it in action for myself. I'm in the UK and no high-street stores stock it!



Thanks in advance.

#1
Posted 08/12/2009 12:54 PM   
1. Yes, the glasses block approx. 40% of light in operating mode. You can compensate for this by turning up brightness & digital vibrance in-game.

2. [url="http://www.nvidia.com/object/3D_Vision_Test_Drive_Centers.html"]http://www.nvidia.com/object/3D_Vision_Tes...ve_Centers.html[/url]
1. Yes, the glasses block approx. 40% of light in operating mode. You can compensate for this by turning up brightness & digital vibrance in-game.



2. http://www.nvidia.com/object/3D_Vision_Tes...ve_Centers.html

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#2
Posted 08/12/2009 01:32 PM   
[quote name='Chris-NYC' post='577352' date='Aug 12 2009, 02:32 PM']1. Yes, the glasses block approx. 40% of light in operating mode. You can compensate for this by turning up brightness & digital vibrance in-game.

2. [url="http://www.nvidia.com/object/3D_Vision_Test_Drive_Centers.html"]http://www.nvidia.com/object/3D_Vision_Tes...ve_Centers.html[/url][/quote]


Thanks for the response, but these are only locations in the states. Does anyone know of anywhere in the UK where the kit can be viewed? In East Sussex if possible.
[quote name='Chris-NYC' post='577352' date='Aug 12 2009, 02:32 PM']1. Yes, the glasses block approx. 40% of light in operating mode. You can compensate for this by turning up brightness & digital vibrance in-game.



2. http://www.nvidia.com/object/3D_Vision_Tes...ve_Centers.html





Thanks for the response, but these are only locations in the states. Does anyone know of anywhere in the UK where the kit can be viewed? In East Sussex if possible.

#3
Posted 08/12/2009 02:36 PM   
[quote name='Coldscooter' post='577334' date='Aug 12 2009, 07:54 AM']Hi I am thinking of buying the kit, but have a couple of questions.

1. As the shutters on the glasses open and close, the user will effectively be looking at just black for 50% of the time. Doesn't this cause the image quality to be seemingly darkened by 50%?

2. Where can i try the kit. I'm not happy buying it without seeing it in action for myself. I'm in the UK and no high-street stores stock it!

Thanks in advance.[/quote]

Let's start with a CRT setup: 25%
Using rough estimations, there are two things that dim the screen. Polarizing film on your LCD glasses cut the light by half, then the shuttering blocks half timewise so you're down to one-quarter brightness. If you've heard of interlaced mode, that can cause another half to be lost so you're down to 1/8 brightness. I use that mode sometimes and after all that, it's still kind of amazing that it's usable with some games and a bright monitor. So that's normally about 25% brightness with a CRT. Yes, it hurts gameplay sometimes when a game is too dark. You can increase brightness/contrast/gamma/vibrance but there are still times when it's not as good as it should be. I try to stay away from the darker games.

With an LCD display: 50%
An LCD display has polarizing film on it that is lined up with your glasses or else your 3d setup wouldn't work. So polarization doesn't cause an extra 50% light loss in this case since it comes out of the monitor already polarized in line with your glasses. So you're right to think that roughly 50% light is lost timewise when the shutters are black but it also depends on the duty cycle which I don't know the details of. It could be more if the black phase lasts longer than half a cycle. It might be that way to combat ghosting.

DLP's:
I think 25% like the CRT but there's a chance it could be different depending on how they use that checkerboard mode and if they decided to put a polarizing filter on a DLP TV or something weird like that.

So now I'm planning on a dual-monitor mode using old XP drivers with mirrors. It shoud have very little light loss.

of course anyone's free to correct me.

bye now.
[quote name='Coldscooter' post='577334' date='Aug 12 2009, 07:54 AM']Hi I am thinking of buying the kit, but have a couple of questions.



1. As the shutters on the glasses open and close, the user will effectively be looking at just black for 50% of the time. Doesn't this cause the image quality to be seemingly darkened by 50%?



2. Where can i try the kit. I'm not happy buying it without seeing it in action for myself. I'm in the UK and no high-street stores stock it!



Thanks in advance.



Let's start with a CRT setup: 25%

Using rough estimations, there are two things that dim the screen. Polarizing film on your LCD glasses cut the light by half, then the shuttering blocks half timewise so you're down to one-quarter brightness. If you've heard of interlaced mode, that can cause another half to be lost so you're down to 1/8 brightness. I use that mode sometimes and after all that, it's still kind of amazing that it's usable with some games and a bright monitor. So that's normally about 25% brightness with a CRT. Yes, it hurts gameplay sometimes when a game is too dark. You can increase brightness/contrast/gamma/vibrance but there are still times when it's not as good as it should be. I try to stay away from the darker games.



With an LCD display: 50%

An LCD display has polarizing film on it that is lined up with your glasses or else your 3d setup wouldn't work. So polarization doesn't cause an extra 50% light loss in this case since it comes out of the monitor already polarized in line with your glasses. So you're right to think that roughly 50% light is lost timewise when the shutters are black but it also depends on the duty cycle which I don't know the details of. It could be more if the black phase lasts longer than half a cycle. It might be that way to combat ghosting.



DLP's:

I think 25% like the CRT but there's a chance it could be different depending on how they use that checkerboard mode and if they decided to put a polarizing filter on a DLP TV or something weird like that.



So now I'm planning on a dual-monitor mode using old XP drivers with mirrors. It shoud have very little light loss.



of course anyone's free to correct me.



bye now.

#4
Posted 08/15/2009 11:20 AM   
Pretty much spot on Iondrive.
I just wants to add that the most light efficient rigs today is dual projector rigs and especially stereobright-lcd-projector and stereopol-lcd-projector rigs. Lcd-projectors with stereopol filters have a very high light throughput (up to 85% to each eye) which is outstanding! This kind of rig is supported by almost every stereoscopic software there is. Ironically not the newer nvidiadrivers. :blink: It's by far the easiest rig to support softwarewise.
Stereobright has maybe even a higher light throughput than stereopol but is unfortuate in that way that more or less only Mr Wimmers stereoscopic player supports it. There are no stereodrivers for games available for stereobright (yet).
Both of these techs works ONLY with lcd-projectors. Going to dlp you'll surely loose 65% of light because of polarization already at a first step...
Pretty much spot on Iondrive.

I just wants to add that the most light efficient rigs today is dual projector rigs and especially stereobright-lcd-projector and stereopol-lcd-projector rigs. Lcd-projectors with stereopol filters have a very high light throughput (up to 85% to each eye) which is outstanding! This kind of rig is supported by almost every stereoscopic software there is. Ironically not the newer nvidiadrivers. :blink: It's by far the easiest rig to support softwarewise.

Stereobright has maybe even a higher light throughput than stereopol but is unfortuate in that way that more or less only Mr Wimmers stereoscopic player supports it. There are no stereodrivers for games available for stereobright (yet).

Both of these techs works ONLY with lcd-projectors. Going to dlp you'll surely loose 65% of light because of polarization already at a first step...

Image

Mb: Asus P5W DH Deluxe

Cpu: C2D E6600

Gb: Nvidia 7900GT + 8800GTX

3D:100" passive projector polarized setup + 22" IZ3D

Stereodrivers: Iz3d & Tridef ignition and nvidia old school.

#5
Posted 08/15/2009 09:00 PM   
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