Question about the 60" Mits 3D Ready display Anyone buy one of these for use with 3d Vision?
Hey all,
I recently tried to use my Z-series Sony Bravia as a monitor on my machine (non-3d) and I noticed alot of distortion with the larger screen on my maximum resolution. I am using a 8800GT.
My question is this: I am planning on buying the 60" mits 3d-ready, along with a BFG GTX295 (single for now, SLI later). Anyone used the mits DLP tvs yet? I am curious how they look with such a large display on say: the normal desktop, or normal web browsing. Is there alot of degradation in the picture due to stretching? Or is the native resolution a good fit for such a hard display?
I recently tried to use my Z-series Sony Bravia as a monitor on my machine (non-3d) and I noticed alot of distortion with the larger screen on my maximum resolution. I am using a 8800GT.
My question is this: I am planning on buying the 60" mits 3d-ready, along with a BFG GTX295 (single for now, SLI later). Anyone used the mits DLP tvs yet? I am curious how they look with such a large display on say: the normal desktop, or normal web browsing. Is there alot of degradation in the picture due to stretching? Or is the native resolution a good fit for such a hard display?
[quote name='Tuxoa' post='592418' date='Sep 26 2009, 12:49 AM']Hey all,
I recently tried to use my Z-series Sony Bravia as a monitor on my machine (non-3d) and I noticed alot of distortion with the larger screen on my maximum resolution. I am using a 8800GT.
My question is this: I am planning on buying the 60" mits 3d-ready, along with a BFG GTX295 (single for now, SLI later). Anyone used the mits DLP tvs yet? I am curious how they look with such a large display on say: the normal desktop, or normal web browsing. Is there alot of degradation in the picture due to stretching? Or is the native resolution a good fit for such a hard display?[/quote]
The 295 is going to work out great for you, I only have a single 280 and it feels like it is just about at the limit for 3D Vision, the 295 is perfect. I also happen to have the 60737, which I assume is the TV you are talking about unless you get an older model from last year or so. I have been using this TV for about a month now as my full time monitor, which has given me no real problems with stretching or degradation of the image quality. Unfortunately you will not be able to run 1920x1080 and have it fill up the TV, I believe this is because Mitsubishi did not really give much thought to PC users when they made the TV. The TV will allow you to reduce the image so that 1080p will fit, but it results in pretty large black bars on the screen.
Nvidia will allow you to adjust the screen to fit perfectly, but it does this by creating some weird resolution, which is a pain when it comes to games, sometimes they will not even work. For Ghostbusters, I had to change the resolution from 1800x1020 to 1768x992. I decided to run that resolution full time and it does result in small black bars around the screen, but its not bad at all and I don't have anymore problems.
The TV I have has a blurry upper right corner, I am going to try to get Mitsubishi to come out to look at it, because it is easy to spot if you look for it, but its not a problem for watching TV, movies, or games.
[quote name='Tuxoa' post='592418' date='Sep 26 2009, 12:49 AM']Hey all,
I recently tried to use my Z-series Sony Bravia as a monitor on my machine (non-3d) and I noticed alot of distortion with the larger screen on my maximum resolution. I am using a 8800GT.
My question is this: I am planning on buying the 60" mits 3d-ready, along with a BFG GTX295 (single for now, SLI later). Anyone used the mits DLP tvs yet? I am curious how they look with such a large display on say: the normal desktop, or normal web browsing. Is there alot of degradation in the picture due to stretching? Or is the native resolution a good fit for such a hard display?
The 295 is going to work out great for you, I only have a single 280 and it feels like it is just about at the limit for 3D Vision, the 295 is perfect. I also happen to have the 60737, which I assume is the TV you are talking about unless you get an older model from last year or so. I have been using this TV for about a month now as my full time monitor, which has given me no real problems with stretching or degradation of the image quality. Unfortunately you will not be able to run 1920x1080 and have it fill up the TV, I believe this is because Mitsubishi did not really give much thought to PC users when they made the TV. The TV will allow you to reduce the image so that 1080p will fit, but it results in pretty large black bars on the screen.
Nvidia will allow you to adjust the screen to fit perfectly, but it does this by creating some weird resolution, which is a pain when it comes to games, sometimes they will not even work. For Ghostbusters, I had to change the resolution from 1800x1020 to 1768x992. I decided to run that resolution full time and it does result in small black bars around the screen, but its not bad at all and I don't have anymore problems.
The TV I have has a blurry upper right corner, I am going to try to get Mitsubishi to come out to look at it, because it is easy to spot if you look for it, but its not a problem for watching TV, movies, or games.
Unfortunatelly GTX295 seems to be insufficient now even for 1680x1050 resolution because new 3D Ready games are very hungry.
1. Resident Evil - this game is on edge of playability in stereo with high settings
2. Batman - if you want to use PhysX it will take resources from single GTX295 and you could get low fps
If you plan full hd stereo experience with 3D Ready games you will need more powerfull card (GTX300?) because, I am not sure now, 3D Vision does not support quad sli. And even if it would support quad sli you would have microsttutering I guess.
I suppose that you would like to have fps > 30 (ideally 60) and high quality game settings.
Unfortunatelly GTX295 seems to be insufficient now even for 1680x1050 resolution because new 3D Ready games are very hungry.
1. Resident Evil - this game is on edge of playability in stereo with high settings
2. Batman - if you want to use PhysX it will take resources from single GTX295 and you could get low fps
If you plan full hd stereo experience with 3D Ready games you will need more powerfull card (GTX300?) because, I am not sure now, 3D Vision does not support quad sli. And even if it would support quad sli you would have microsttutering I guess.
I suppose that you would like to have fps > 30 (ideally 60) and high quality game settings.
I sit about 6 feet back from the TV, and I use the Futura Gamers Desk for my keyboard and mouse, it works decent enough. Though for typing I just put it on the coffee table (which is a bit too low). I still think a 295 is plenty, though you could probably get 2 285's for around the same price used. Especially since many people will be switching over to ATI since their new cards perform so well.
I sit about 6 feet back from the TV, and I use the Futura Gamers Desk for my keyboard and mouse, it works decent enough. Though for typing I just put it on the coffee table (which is a bit too low). I still think a 295 is plenty, though you could probably get 2 285's for around the same price used. Especially since many people will be switching over to ATI since their new cards perform so well.
I use a 285GTX with an i7 920 (overclocked to 4.0Ghz) with Flight Simulator X and I can tell you that it runs butter smooth on the Samsung 22" with zero loss of framerates. Not sure why there's a perception that you need an uber GPU to run 3D Vision?
I use a 285GTX with an i7 920 (overclocked to 4.0Ghz) with Flight Simulator X and I can tell you that it runs butter smooth on the Samsung 22" with zero loss of framerates. Not sure why there's a perception that you need an uber GPU to run 3D Vision?
[quote name='TrekCZ' post='593301' date='Sep 28 2009, 02:40 AM']FSX is CPU dependent.
I play various games and I am saying that GTX295 is not sufficient. GTX285 is in these days weak graphics card.
To play good modern titles in full hd with PhysX and 3D Vision GTX285 sli with GTX260 as dedicated PhysX accelerator is minimum.[/quote]
Sorry did you mean the GTX285 is not enough? You first said GTX295 and based on my experiences with my current GTX280 , while it does great at 1920x1200 if I were to use it for 3D gaming then the story is different. That is what I am using the 22" LCD first then getting a GTX295 to get a 60" DLP.
Regards
[quote name='TrekCZ' post='593301' date='Sep 28 2009, 02:40 AM']FSX is CPU dependent.
I play various games and I am saying that GTX295 is not sufficient. GTX285 is in these days weak graphics card.
To play good modern titles in full hd with PhysX and 3D Vision GTX285 sli with GTX260 as dedicated PhysX accelerator is minimum.
Sorry did you mean the GTX285 is not enough? You first said GTX295 and based on my experiences with my current GTX280 , while it does great at 1920x1200 if I were to use it for 3D gaming then the story is different. That is what I am using the 22" LCD first then getting a GTX295 to get a 60" DLP.
I don't agree that a 295 is not enough, I have played the following games in 3D so far with no major problems:
Oblivion
Fallout 3
Batman: Arkham Asylum
Ghostbusters
Left 4 Dead
The Orange Box
FEAR 2
Mass Effect
Street Fighter 4
I "only" have a GTX 280 running stock clocks, and an E8600 at 4.4ghz. Even though I game on the 60" I do not game at 1080p, because its impossible due to the overscan issues. I therefore game at 1768x992 and it fits the screen perfectly. So its basically the same as running at 1680x1050. Granted I am not running at 60fps all the time, and definitely plan on upgrading as soon as the new Nvidia cards come out (512 shaders! Its gonna be a beast!), but a 285 will run better than my 280 with more room to overclock as well. I would go with a 285 only because you can get one used for a good price from someone who is jumping ship to the new ATI cards (who obviously hasn't seen the light of 3D vision lol).
I don't agree that a 295 is not enough, I have played the following games in 3D so far with no major problems:
Oblivion
Fallout 3
Batman: Arkham Asylum
Ghostbusters
Left 4 Dead
The Orange Box
FEAR 2
Mass Effect
Street Fighter 4
I "only" have a GTX 280 running stock clocks, and an E8600 at 4.4ghz. Even though I game on the 60" I do not game at 1080p, because its impossible due to the overscan issues. I therefore game at 1768x992 and it fits the screen perfectly. So its basically the same as running at 1680x1050. Granted I am not running at 60fps all the time, and definitely plan on upgrading as soon as the new Nvidia cards come out (512 shaders! Its gonna be a beast!), but a 285 will run better than my 280 with more room to overclock as well. I would go with a 285 only because you can get one used for a good price from someone who is jumping ship to the new ATI cards (who obviously hasn't seen the light of 3D vision lol).
I'm running a single 8800GT on a Mitsubishi 65837, sitting about 5 feet away - and loving the 65" of 3d goodness. Yes I'll be upgrading the video card when the Fermi's come out, but I'm not having any framerate problems with the games I play (L4D, Mount & Blade, Fallout 3) - I just can't turn on all they eyecandy and crank up AA/AF.
2 Notes about the Mitsubishi DLPs (2009 models only, so C9/737/837):
1) If text seems fuzzy in parts of the desktop, it's because the TV is trying to "correct" the geometry - which takes away 1:1 pixel mapping. To disable the geometry correction entirely (which gives you back 1:1 pixel mapping and fixes that spotty fuzziness), enter the following on the remote: (Found this on the AVS Forums, [url="http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=17255528#post17255528)"]http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread....8#post17255528)[/url]
MENU, 2, 4, 5, 7 - to enter service menu
0 (zero) - to enter geometry and backup menu
Select Manual Geometry, (down arrow a few times, then Enter)
Screen goes black with alignment lines.
Press 1 to turn off all geometry correction.
Press Enter to accept
Press Back to exit service menu.
2) Make sure you have the input named PC and turn on 3d mode in the menu! I was switching the pc input in and out of 3d mode to play games, but after making the adjustment above the picture is perfectly clear so now I just leave the PC input in 3d mode all the time.
3) Yes I only said 2 - but make sure you have your TV on a UPS! These bulbs don't like sudden power interruptions, so if you don't want to blow one prematurely you don't want to let that happen.
Other than that, these TVs have awesome picture quality, are HUGE, and are durn cheap compared to the competition. I was gaming on a 37" Westinghouse LCD for the last few years and I'd say that after figuring out #1 above I'm not losing anything by switching to DLP (which was my greatest fear when buying this set)! You will notice the checkerboard effect on some borders and fonts when 3d vision kicks in, but for the most part it's not noticeable. And the best part is that I've not had any of the ghosting problems I read about with those puny monitors /whistling.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':whistling:' />
I'm running a single 8800GT on a Mitsubishi 65837, sitting about 5 feet away - and loving the 65" of 3d goodness. Yes I'll be upgrading the video card when the Fermi's come out, but I'm not having any framerate problems with the games I play (L4D, Mount & Blade, Fallout 3) - I just can't turn on all they eyecandy and crank up AA/AF.
2 Notes about the Mitsubishi DLPs (2009 models only, so C9/737/837):
1) If text seems fuzzy in parts of the desktop, it's because the TV is trying to "correct" the geometry - which takes away 1:1 pixel mapping. To disable the geometry correction entirely (which gives you back 1:1 pixel mapping and fixes that spotty fuzziness), enter the following on the remote: (Found this on the AVS Forums, http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread....8#post17255528)
MENU, 2, 4, 5, 7 - to enter service menu
0 (zero) - to enter geometry and backup menu
Select Manual Geometry, (down arrow a few times, then Enter)
Screen goes black with alignment lines.
Press 1 to turn off all geometry correction.
Press Enter to accept
Press Back to exit service menu.
2) Make sure you have the input named PC and turn on 3d mode in the menu! I was switching the pc input in and out of 3d mode to play games, but after making the adjustment above the picture is perfectly clear so now I just leave the PC input in 3d mode all the time.
3) Yes I only said 2 - but make sure you have your TV on a UPS! These bulbs don't like sudden power interruptions, so if you don't want to blow one prematurely you don't want to let that happen.
Other than that, these TVs have awesome picture quality, are HUGE, and are durn cheap compared to the competition. I was gaming on a 37" Westinghouse LCD for the last few years and I'd say that after figuring out #1 above I'm not losing anything by switching to DLP (which was my greatest fear when buying this set)! You will notice the checkerboard effect on some borders and fonts when 3d vision kicks in, but for the most part it's not noticeable. And the best part is that I've not had any of the ghosting problems I read about with those puny monitors /whistling.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':whistling:' />
[quote name='Schrack' post='596634' date='Oct 5 2009, 07:14 AM']I'm running a single 8800GT on a Mitsubishi 65837, sitting about 5 feet away - and loving the 65" of 3d goodness. Yes I'll be upgrading the video card when the Fermi's come out, but I'm not having any framerate problems with the games I play (L4D, Mount & Blade, Fallout 3) - I just can't turn on all they eyecandy and crank up AA/AF.
2 Notes about the Mitsubishi DLPs (2009 models only, so C9/737/837):
1) If text seems fuzzy in parts of the desktop, it's because the TV is trying to "correct" the geometry - which takes away 1:1 pixel mapping. To disable the geometry correction entirely (which gives you back 1:1 pixel mapping and fixes that spotty fuzziness), enter the following on the remote: (Found this on the AVS Forums, [url="http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=17255528#post17255528)"]http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread....8#post17255528)[/url]
MENU, 2, 4, 5, 7 - to enter service menu
0 (zero) - to enter geometry and backup menu
Select Manual Geometry, (down arrow a few times, then Enter)
Screen goes black with alignment lines.
Press 1 to turn off all geometry correction.
Press Enter to accept
Press Back to exit service menu.
2) Make sure you have the input named PC and turn on 3d mode in the menu! I was switching the pc input in and out of 3d mode to play games, but after making the adjustment above the picture is perfectly clear so now I just leave the PC input in 3d mode all the time.
3) Yes I only said 2 - but make sure you have your TV on a UPS! These bulbs don't like sudden power interruptions, so if you don't want to blow one prematurely you don't want to let that happen.
Other than that, these TVs have awesome picture quality, are HUGE, and are durn cheap compared to the competition. I was gaming on a 37" Westinghouse LCD for the last few years and I'd say that after figuring out #1 above I'm not losing anything by switching to DLP (which was my greatest fear when buying this set)! You will notice the checkerboard effect on some borders and fonts when 3d vision kicks in, but for the most part it's not noticeable. And the best part is that I've not had any of the ghosting problems I read about with those puny monitors /whistling.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':whistling:' />[/quote]
Sweet! I was doing the same thing with the 3D mode, switching back and forth, and now I can leave it on! The geometry is not perfect (has a slight trapezoidal shape to it, and is a little convex), but its not much worse than it was before and now 3D mode doesn't look weird when its turned on.
[quote name='Schrack' post='596634' date='Oct 5 2009, 07:14 AM']I'm running a single 8800GT on a Mitsubishi 65837, sitting about 5 feet away - and loving the 65" of 3d goodness. Yes I'll be upgrading the video card when the Fermi's come out, but I'm not having any framerate problems with the games I play (L4D, Mount & Blade, Fallout 3) - I just can't turn on all they eyecandy and crank up AA/AF.
2 Notes about the Mitsubishi DLPs (2009 models only, so C9/737/837):
1) If text seems fuzzy in parts of the desktop, it's because the TV is trying to "correct" the geometry - which takes away 1:1 pixel mapping. To disable the geometry correction entirely (which gives you back 1:1 pixel mapping and fixes that spotty fuzziness), enter the following on the remote: (Found this on the AVS Forums, http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread....8#post17255528)
MENU, 2, 4, 5, 7 - to enter service menu
0 (zero) - to enter geometry and backup menu
Select Manual Geometry, (down arrow a few times, then Enter)
Screen goes black with alignment lines.
Press 1 to turn off all geometry correction.
Press Enter to accept
Press Back to exit service menu.
2) Make sure you have the input named PC and turn on 3d mode in the menu! I was switching the pc input in and out of 3d mode to play games, but after making the adjustment above the picture is perfectly clear so now I just leave the PC input in 3d mode all the time.
3) Yes I only said 2 - but make sure you have your TV on a UPS! These bulbs don't like sudden power interruptions, so if you don't want to blow one prematurely you don't want to let that happen.
Other than that, these TVs have awesome picture quality, are HUGE, and are durn cheap compared to the competition. I was gaming on a 37" Westinghouse LCD for the last few years and I'd say that after figuring out #1 above I'm not losing anything by switching to DLP (which was my greatest fear when buying this set)! You will notice the checkerboard effect on some borders and fonts when 3d vision kicks in, but for the most part it's not noticeable. And the best part is that I've not had any of the ghosting problems I read about with those puny monitors /whistling.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':whistling:' />
Sweet! I was doing the same thing with the 3D mode, switching back and forth, and now I can leave it on! The geometry is not perfect (has a slight trapezoidal shape to it, and is a little convex), but its not much worse than it was before and now 3D mode doesn't look weird when its turned on.
I recently tried to use my Z-series Sony Bravia as a monitor on my machine (non-3d) and I noticed alot of distortion with the larger screen on my maximum resolution. I am using a 8800GT.
My question is this: I am planning on buying the 60" mits 3d-ready, along with a BFG GTX295 (single for now, SLI later). Anyone used the mits DLP tvs yet? I am curious how they look with such a large display on say: the normal desktop, or normal web browsing. Is there alot of degradation in the picture due to stretching? Or is the native resolution a good fit for such a hard display?
I recently tried to use my Z-series Sony Bravia as a monitor on my machine (non-3d) and I noticed alot of distortion with the larger screen on my maximum resolution. I am using a 8800GT.
My question is this: I am planning on buying the 60" mits 3d-ready, along with a BFG GTX295 (single for now, SLI later). Anyone used the mits DLP tvs yet? I am curious how they look with such a large display on say: the normal desktop, or normal web browsing. Is there alot of degradation in the picture due to stretching? Or is the native resolution a good fit for such a hard display?
I recently tried to use my Z-series Sony Bravia as a monitor on my machine (non-3d) and I noticed alot of distortion with the larger screen on my maximum resolution. I am using a 8800GT.
My question is this: I am planning on buying the 60" mits 3d-ready, along with a BFG GTX295 (single for now, SLI later). Anyone used the mits DLP tvs yet? I am curious how they look with such a large display on say: the normal desktop, or normal web browsing. Is there alot of degradation in the picture due to stretching? Or is the native resolution a good fit for such a hard display?[/quote]
The 295 is going to work out great for you, I only have a single 280 and it feels like it is just about at the limit for 3D Vision, the 295 is perfect. I also happen to have the 60737, which I assume is the TV you are talking about unless you get an older model from last year or so. I have been using this TV for about a month now as my full time monitor, which has given me no real problems with stretching or degradation of the image quality. Unfortunately you will not be able to run 1920x1080 and have it fill up the TV, I believe this is because Mitsubishi did not really give much thought to PC users when they made the TV. The TV will allow you to reduce the image so that 1080p will fit, but it results in pretty large black bars on the screen.
Nvidia will allow you to adjust the screen to fit perfectly, but it does this by creating some weird resolution, which is a pain when it comes to games, sometimes they will not even work. For Ghostbusters, I had to change the resolution from 1800x1020 to 1768x992. I decided to run that resolution full time and it does result in small black bars around the screen, but its not bad at all and I don't have anymore problems.
The TV I have has a blurry upper right corner, I am going to try to get Mitsubishi to come out to look at it, because it is easy to spot if you look for it, but its not a problem for watching TV, movies, or games.
I recently tried to use my Z-series Sony Bravia as a monitor on my machine (non-3d) and I noticed alot of distortion with the larger screen on my maximum resolution. I am using a 8800GT.
My question is this: I am planning on buying the 60" mits 3d-ready, along with a BFG GTX295 (single for now, SLI later). Anyone used the mits DLP tvs yet? I am curious how they look with such a large display on say: the normal desktop, or normal web browsing. Is there alot of degradation in the picture due to stretching? Or is the native resolution a good fit for such a hard display?
The 295 is going to work out great for you, I only have a single 280 and it feels like it is just about at the limit for 3D Vision, the 295 is perfect. I also happen to have the 60737, which I assume is the TV you are talking about unless you get an older model from last year or so. I have been using this TV for about a month now as my full time monitor, which has given me no real problems with stretching or degradation of the image quality. Unfortunately you will not be able to run 1920x1080 and have it fill up the TV, I believe this is because Mitsubishi did not really give much thought to PC users when they made the TV. The TV will allow you to reduce the image so that 1080p will fit, but it results in pretty large black bars on the screen.
Nvidia will allow you to adjust the screen to fit perfectly, but it does this by creating some weird resolution, which is a pain when it comes to games, sometimes they will not even work. For Ghostbusters, I had to change the resolution from 1800x1020 to 1768x992. I decided to run that resolution full time and it does result in small black bars around the screen, but its not bad at all and I don't have anymore problems.
The TV I have has a blurry upper right corner, I am going to try to get Mitsubishi to come out to look at it, because it is easy to spot if you look for it, but its not a problem for watching TV, movies, or games.
Not to mention, you probably have to sit a mile away from that thing no?
Not to mention, you probably have to sit a mile away from that thing no?
1. Resident Evil - this game is on edge of playability in stereo with high settings
2. Batman - if you want to use PhysX it will take resources from single GTX295 and you could get low fps
If you plan full hd stereo experience with 3D Ready games you will need more powerfull card (GTX300?) because, I am not sure now, 3D Vision does not support quad sli. And even if it would support quad sli you would have microsttutering I guess.
I suppose that you would like to have fps > 30 (ideally 60) and high quality game settings.
1. Resident Evil - this game is on edge of playability in stereo with high settings
2. Batman - if you want to use PhysX it will take resources from single GTX295 and you could get low fps
If you plan full hd stereo experience with 3D Ready games you will need more powerfull card (GTX300?) because, I am not sure now, 3D Vision does not support quad sli. And even if it would support quad sli you would have microsttutering I guess.
I suppose that you would like to have fps > 30 (ideally 60) and high quality game settings.
I play various games and I am saying that GTX295 is not sufficient. GTX285 is in these days weak graphics card.
To play good modern titles in full hd with PhysX and 3D Vision GTX285 sli with GTX260 as dedicated PhysX accelerator is minimum.
I play various games and I am saying that GTX295 is not sufficient. GTX285 is in these days weak graphics card.
To play good modern titles in full hd with PhysX and 3D Vision GTX285 sli with GTX260 as dedicated PhysX accelerator is minimum.
I play various games and I am saying that GTX295 is not sufficient. GTX285 is in these days weak graphics card.
To play good modern titles in full hd with PhysX and 3D Vision GTX285 sli with GTX260 as dedicated PhysX accelerator is minimum.[/quote]
Sorry did you mean the GTX285 is not enough? You first said GTX295 and based on my experiences with my current GTX280 , while it does great at 1920x1200 if I were to use it for 3D gaming then the story is different. That is what I am using the 22" LCD first then getting a GTX295 to get a 60" DLP.
Regards
I play various games and I am saying that GTX295 is not sufficient. GTX285 is in these days weak graphics card.
To play good modern titles in full hd with PhysX and 3D Vision GTX285 sli with GTX260 as dedicated PhysX accelerator is minimum.
Sorry did you mean the GTX285 is not enough? You first said GTX295 and based on my experiences with my current GTX280 , while it does great at 1920x1200 if I were to use it for 3D gaming then the story is different. That is what I am using the 22" LCD first then getting a GTX295 to get a 60" DLP.
Regards
*CPU: i7 920 DO @ 4.1Ghz 1.35v HT On*CPU Cooler: Thermaltake Water 2.0 Extreme*Mobo: Evga X58 SLI / RAM: 12GB Crucial Ballistix Tactical Tracer DDR3 1600 7-7-7-21 1.5v*Video Cards:Tri Sli Evga GTX 660 ti x 2 & MSI GTX 660 ti *Speakers:CBM-170 SE*PSU: Corsair HX1000W*Display: Mitusbishi 60" DLP (3D Vision ) Qnix QX2710 27" 1440P*Case: CoolerMaster HAF X (932 side) *Windows 7 64Bit on Samsung 840 256GB*Others: Roccat Kone XTD | Roccat Alumic | Logitech G15 | *Mobile: Galaxy Note 2
Oblivion
Fallout 3
Batman: Arkham Asylum
Ghostbusters
Left 4 Dead
The Orange Box
FEAR 2
Mass Effect
Street Fighter 4
I "only" have a GTX 280 running stock clocks, and an E8600 at 4.4ghz. Even though I game on the 60" I do not game at 1080p, because its impossible due to the overscan issues. I therefore game at 1768x992 and it fits the screen perfectly. So its basically the same as running at 1680x1050. Granted I am not running at 60fps all the time, and definitely plan on upgrading as soon as the new Nvidia cards come out (512 shaders! Its gonna be a beast!), but a 285 will run better than my 280 with more room to overclock as well. I would go with a 285 only because you can get one used for a good price from someone who is jumping ship to the new ATI cards (who obviously hasn't seen the light of 3D vision lol).
Oblivion
Fallout 3
Batman: Arkham Asylum
Ghostbusters
Left 4 Dead
The Orange Box
FEAR 2
Mass Effect
Street Fighter 4
I "only" have a GTX 280 running stock clocks, and an E8600 at 4.4ghz. Even though I game on the 60" I do not game at 1080p, because its impossible due to the overscan issues. I therefore game at 1768x992 and it fits the screen perfectly. So its basically the same as running at 1680x1050. Granted I am not running at 60fps all the time, and definitely plan on upgrading as soon as the new Nvidia cards come out (512 shaders! Its gonna be a beast!), but a 285 will run better than my 280 with more room to overclock as well. I would go with a 285 only because you can get one used for a good price from someone who is jumping ship to the new ATI cards (who obviously hasn't seen the light of 3D vision lol).
2 Notes about the Mitsubishi DLPs (2009 models only, so C9/737/837):
1) If text seems fuzzy in parts of the desktop, it's because the TV is trying to "correct" the geometry - which takes away 1:1 pixel mapping. To disable the geometry correction entirely (which gives you back 1:1 pixel mapping and fixes that spotty fuzziness), enter the following on the remote: (Found this on the AVS Forums, [url="http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=17255528#post17255528)"]http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread....8#post17255528)[/url]
MENU, 2, 4, 5, 7 - to enter service menu
0 (zero) - to enter geometry and backup menu
Select Manual Geometry, (down arrow a few times, then Enter)
Screen goes black with alignment lines.
Press 1 to turn off all geometry correction.
Press Enter to accept
Press Back to exit service menu.
2) Make sure you have the input named PC and turn on 3d mode in the menu! I was switching the pc input in and out of 3d mode to play games, but after making the adjustment above the picture is perfectly clear so now I just leave the PC input in 3d mode all the time.
3) Yes I only said 2 - but make sure you have your TV on a UPS! These bulbs don't like sudden power interruptions, so if you don't want to blow one prematurely you don't want to let that happen.
Other than that, these TVs have awesome picture quality, are HUGE, and are durn cheap compared to the competition. I was gaming on a 37" Westinghouse LCD for the last few years and I'd say that after figuring out #1 above I'm not losing anything by switching to DLP (which was my greatest fear when buying this set)! You will notice the checkerboard effect on some borders and fonts when 3d vision kicks in, but for the most part it's not noticeable. And the best part is that I've not had any of the ghosting problems I read about with those puny monitors
2 Notes about the Mitsubishi DLPs (2009 models only, so C9/737/837):
1) If text seems fuzzy in parts of the desktop, it's because the TV is trying to "correct" the geometry - which takes away 1:1 pixel mapping. To disable the geometry correction entirely (which gives you back 1:1 pixel mapping and fixes that spotty fuzziness), enter the following on the remote: (Found this on the AVS Forums, http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread....8#post17255528)
MENU, 2, 4, 5, 7 - to enter service menu
0 (zero) - to enter geometry and backup menu
Select Manual Geometry, (down arrow a few times, then Enter)
Screen goes black with alignment lines.
Press 1 to turn off all geometry correction.
Press Enter to accept
Press Back to exit service menu.
2) Make sure you have the input named PC and turn on 3d mode in the menu! I was switching the pc input in and out of 3d mode to play games, but after making the adjustment above the picture is perfectly clear so now I just leave the PC input in 3d mode all the time.
3) Yes I only said 2 - but make sure you have your TV on a UPS! These bulbs don't like sudden power interruptions, so if you don't want to blow one prematurely you don't want to let that happen.
Other than that, these TVs have awesome picture quality, are HUGE, and are durn cheap compared to the competition. I was gaming on a 37" Westinghouse LCD for the last few years and I'd say that after figuring out #1 above I'm not losing anything by switching to DLP (which was my greatest fear when buying this set)! You will notice the checkerboard effect on some borders and fonts when 3d vision kicks in, but for the most part it's not noticeable. And the best part is that I've not had any of the ghosting problems I read about with those puny monitors
2 Notes about the Mitsubishi DLPs (2009 models only, so C9/737/837):
1) If text seems fuzzy in parts of the desktop, it's because the TV is trying to "correct" the geometry - which takes away 1:1 pixel mapping. To disable the geometry correction entirely (which gives you back 1:1 pixel mapping and fixes that spotty fuzziness), enter the following on the remote: (Found this on the AVS Forums, [url="http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=17255528#post17255528)"]http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread....8#post17255528)[/url]
MENU, 2, 4, 5, 7 - to enter service menu
0 (zero) - to enter geometry and backup menu
Select Manual Geometry, (down arrow a few times, then Enter)
Screen goes black with alignment lines.
Press 1 to turn off all geometry correction.
Press Enter to accept
Press Back to exit service menu.
2) Make sure you have the input named PC and turn on 3d mode in the menu! I was switching the pc input in and out of 3d mode to play games, but after making the adjustment above the picture is perfectly clear so now I just leave the PC input in 3d mode all the time.
3) Yes I only said 2 - but make sure you have your TV on a UPS! These bulbs don't like sudden power interruptions, so if you don't want to blow one prematurely you don't want to let that happen.
Other than that, these TVs have awesome picture quality, are HUGE, and are durn cheap compared to the competition. I was gaming on a 37" Westinghouse LCD for the last few years and I'd say that after figuring out #1 above I'm not losing anything by switching to DLP (which was my greatest fear when buying this set)! You will notice the checkerboard effect on some borders and fonts when 3d vision kicks in, but for the most part it's not noticeable. And the best part is that I've not had any of the ghosting problems I read about with those puny monitors
Sweet! I was doing the same thing with the 3D mode, switching back and forth, and now I can leave it on! The geometry is not perfect (has a slight trapezoidal shape to it, and is a little convex), but its not much worse than it was before and now 3D mode doesn't look weird when its turned on.
2 Notes about the Mitsubishi DLPs (2009 models only, so C9/737/837):
1) If text seems fuzzy in parts of the desktop, it's because the TV is trying to "correct" the geometry - which takes away 1:1 pixel mapping. To disable the geometry correction entirely (which gives you back 1:1 pixel mapping and fixes that spotty fuzziness), enter the following on the remote: (Found this on the AVS Forums, http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread....8#post17255528)
MENU, 2, 4, 5, 7 - to enter service menu
0 (zero) - to enter geometry and backup menu
Select Manual Geometry, (down arrow a few times, then Enter)
Screen goes black with alignment lines.
Press 1 to turn off all geometry correction.
Press Enter to accept
Press Back to exit service menu.
2) Make sure you have the input named PC and turn on 3d mode in the menu! I was switching the pc input in and out of 3d mode to play games, but after making the adjustment above the picture is perfectly clear so now I just leave the PC input in 3d mode all the time.
3) Yes I only said 2 - but make sure you have your TV on a UPS! These bulbs don't like sudden power interruptions, so if you don't want to blow one prematurely you don't want to let that happen.
Other than that, these TVs have awesome picture quality, are HUGE, and are durn cheap compared to the competition. I was gaming on a 37" Westinghouse LCD for the last few years and I'd say that after figuring out #1 above I'm not losing anything by switching to DLP (which was my greatest fear when buying this set)! You will notice the checkerboard effect on some borders and fonts when 3d vision kicks in, but for the most part it's not noticeable. And the best part is that I've not had any of the ghosting problems I read about with those puny monitors
Sweet! I was doing the same thing with the 3D mode, switching back and forth, and now I can leave it on! The geometry is not perfect (has a slight trapezoidal shape to it, and is a little convex), but its not much worse than it was before and now 3D mode doesn't look weird when its turned on.