BTW I would want a 85hz pj if someone should buy it anyway. Meanwhile I might help you choosing a screen, and tell you bout my diy screen stuff ( want it top notch ).
Matte white sux for 3d, thats for sure.
I have an ACER H5360 at 120hz, what is that Toshiba?
BTW I would want a 85hz pj if someone should buy it anyway. Meanwhile I might help you choosing a screen, and tell you bout my diy screen stuff ( want it top notch ).
Matte white sux for 3d, thats for sure.
I have an ACER H5360 at 120hz, what is that Toshiba?
Toshiba DLP TDP-S8 $200 AUD, used 1 hour lamp
H-Sync Range 31 ~ 80 kHz
V-Sync Range 56 ~ 85 Hz
New Acer 3D 1024 x 768 is $999 here is Australia
If matte white is no good then what is the right colour and material
I read this from a projector shop in Melb Aus
[quote]The performance of both LCD and DLP projectors are optimised by matte white projection surfaces.
Other screen materials will compromise image quality in one way or another to increase the screen's gain. A high gain material is simply unnecessary with today's projectors and is not worth the image quality loss.
Grey screens - There has recently been a lot of marketing hype about grey front projection screen materials which improve contrast. Unfortunately, with front projection, this results in a colour shift to the blue spectrum - not a problem with black and white projectors but ghastly with colour. Your whites will also be slightly off-white.
Glass beaded screens have a higher gain however you will experience a dramatic loss of viewing angle and a loss of resolution. Glass beaded screens are retro reflective, that is their preferred direction of reflection is to the light source. With a ceiling mounted projector, the brightest image is under the ceiling........ hardly the place to watch your DVD or videos. They are also
mechanically unstable in that the beads can move or fall off entirely, creating very distinctive dark spots.
Pearlescent screens have a higher gain, however colour shift to red occurs and there is a tendency to hot spot. They also have a narrow viewing angle, are not readily available and expensive.
Silver/Silver lenticular screens also provide a higher gain, however these screens will cause a colour shift to blue, have a smaller viewing angle and can hot spot. These screens are great for old black and white, low power projectors but not suitable for contemporary projectors. However, this material is still the best medium for 3D projection.
GM Multimedia Pty. Ltd., operators of JustProjectors.com.au no longer sells any of the above screen materials. We only sells premium matt white materials to ensure our customers receive the best image possible. Don't get caught up with the propaganda of high gain screens. It is not worth the compromise of image quality.
2C, Grand View & LP Morgan What's the difference?
We have chosen Herma as our exclusive provider of projection screens. After scouring the market we have determined that these screens offer the best possible image quality and great value in all areas of use.
2C is the value screen option, designed especially for educators & business professionals. There is a wide range of screen types and sizes available, including Tripod, Pull Down, Fixed Frame and small Portable self standing screens.
Grandview screens are designed for movies, television, and corporate projection. They come in widescreen (16:9) and standard television (4:3). Grandview screens are excellent for home theater and are available in manual pull down, motorised remote roller, and fixed frame. Grandview screens use an American PVC matt white material, one of the best materials on the market.
LP Morgan is Australia's premium projection screen and one of the most popular in the country. Made out of the highest quality materials available today, LP Morgan screens have won countless awards for innovation and projection quality. The LP Morgan screen is the perfect solution for a high-end home theatre set up and for hotel/casino promotion displays. LP Morgan screens are available in various sizes and can be custom designed to meet virtually any requirement. If you are after the best in projector screen technology, this is it.[/quote]
If matte white is no good then what is the right colour and material
I read this from a projector shop in Melb Aus
The performance of both LCD and DLP projectors are optimised by matte white projection surfaces.
Other screen materials will compromise image quality in one way or another to increase the screen's gain. A high gain material is simply unnecessary with today's projectors and is not worth the image quality loss.
Grey screens - There has recently been a lot of marketing hype about grey front projection screen materials which improve contrast. Unfortunately, with front projection, this results in a colour shift to the blue spectrum - not a problem with black and white projectors but ghastly with colour. Your whites will also be slightly off-white.
Glass beaded screens have a higher gain however you will experience a dramatic loss of viewing angle and a loss of resolution. Glass beaded screens are retro reflective, that is their preferred direction of reflection is to the light source. With a ceiling mounted projector, the brightest image is under the ceiling........ hardly the place to watch your DVD or videos. They are also
mechanically unstable in that the beads can move or fall off entirely, creating very distinctive dark spots.
Pearlescent screens have a higher gain, however colour shift to red occurs and there is a tendency to hot spot. They also have a narrow viewing angle, are not readily available and expensive.
Silver/Silver lenticular screens also provide a higher gain, however these screens will cause a colour shift to blue, have a smaller viewing angle and can hot spot. These screens are great for old black and white, low power projectors but not suitable for contemporary projectors. However, this material is still the best medium for 3D projection.
GM Multimedia Pty. Ltd., operators of JustProjectors.com.au no longer sells any of the above screen materials. We only sells premium matt white materials to ensure our customers receive the best image possible. Don't get caught up with the propaganda of high gain screens. It is not worth the compromise of image quality.
2C, Grand View & LP Morgan What's the difference?
We have chosen Herma as our exclusive provider of projection screens. After scouring the market we have determined that these screens offer the best possible image quality and great value in all areas of use.
2C is the value screen option, designed especially for educators & business professionals. There is a wide range of screen types and sizes available, including Tripod, Pull Down, Fixed Frame and small Portable self standing screens.
Grandview screens are designed for movies, television, and corporate projection. They come in widescreen (16:9) and standard television (4:3). Grandview screens are excellent for home theater and are available in manual pull down, motorised remote roller, and fixed frame. Grandview screens use an American PVC matt white material, one of the best materials on the market.
LP Morgan is Australia's premium projection screen and one of the most popular in the country. Made out of the highest quality materials available today, LP Morgan screens have won countless awards for innovation and projection quality. The LP Morgan screen is the perfect solution for a high-end home theatre set up and for hotel/casino promotion displays. LP Morgan screens are available in various sizes and can be custom designed to meet virtually any requirement. If you are after the best in projector screen technology, this is it.
Haven't tested but I think generic DLP is for checkerboard inputs only.
These are Samsung's and Mitsubishi's rear projection DLP television equipped with a Vesa 3d sync plug at the back.
DLP-link 3D ready front projectors use frame alternate inputs. These would be more like generic CRT mode.
oh lord thats not good. I tought you are picking up some darkchip3 pj under 200 bucks. Ha!
You see these ACER 3d and optoma, and 3 year old 720p optoma are all built around the same DLP chip, darkchip3. This means that the rows between the pixels are dark.
I want at least a 720p darkchip3 pj , or like 2-3x 1024*768 dlp pj's for cheap.
oh lord thats not good. I tought you are picking up some darkchip3 pj under 200 bucks. Ha!
You see these ACER 3d and optoma, and 3 year old 720p optoma are all built around the same DLP chip, darkchip3. This means that the rows between the pixels are dark.
I want at least a 720p darkchip3 pj , or like 2-3x 1024*768 dlp pj's for cheap.
There is no best screen : if you are looking for the best picture possible, you have to consider your projection system as a whole : projector + screen + 3D glasses + 120Hz mode + ambient light
and see what you get in the end in terms of : brightness, contrast, colour, hot-spotting, view angles and parasite lighting.
When using the projector in 3D mode, the projector already reduces the amount of available brightness, then the glasses eat up 3/4 of the rest, which make the picture very very dim. If you project on a big surface in order to get a very big picture, you'll get a very dark image which you can calculate through the ANSI-lumen output of the projector and the size of the screen (look for the real output values in 120Hz mode measured by reviewers, the ANSI-lumen manufacturer rating of the projector is the maximum brightness in 60Hz mode only).
The generic formulae to calculate the amount of perceived brightness is :
Projector brightness in 120Hz mode (in ANSI-Lumen) x Screen Gain / Screen surface area = Brightness reflected on the screen (without glasses, divide this result by 4 to get the brightness with glasses)
If the screen surface is measured in Square foot, you get the reflected brightness in Foot-Lambert
If the screen surface is measured in Square metre, you get the reflected brightness in Cd/m²
You'll be able to compare the brightness level with other displays to get a rough idea about what to expect. There is also some info on the web about recommended minimum brightness that you should achieve depending on the ambient light of your room.
Low brightness is the #1 issue with 3D, if the picture is not bright enough there will be no contrast and no colour to see so there's no point in absolutely wanting a white matte screen : these calculations will tell you whether you can afford a white matte screen (with a gain of 1.0) or if you need a higher gain screen (if you understand that brightness is more important than the drawbacks of high gain screens)
A white matte screen is the best for colour and view angles but is also not without problems. It's key benefit (radiates light almost equivalently in all directions) is also it's weakness : any ambient light (including the ambient light caused by the picture itself bouncing off the walls) will be reflected on it and destroy contrast : in other words you must use it in the dark
High gain screens deal with ambient light differently and are much more suitable for lit rooms.
There is no best screen : if you are looking for the best picture possible, you have to consider your projection system as a whole : projector + screen + 3D glasses + 120Hz mode + ambient light
and see what you get in the end in terms of : brightness, contrast, colour, hot-spotting, view angles and parasite lighting.
When using the projector in 3D mode, the projector already reduces the amount of available brightness, then the glasses eat up 3/4 of the rest, which make the picture very very dim. If you project on a big surface in order to get a very big picture, you'll get a very dark image which you can calculate through the ANSI-lumen output of the projector and the size of the screen (look for the real output values in 120Hz mode measured by reviewers, the ANSI-lumen manufacturer rating of the projector is the maximum brightness in 60Hz mode only).
The generic formulae to calculate the amount of perceived brightness is :
Projector brightness in 120Hz mode (in ANSI-Lumen) x Screen Gain / Screen surface area = Brightness reflected on the screen (without glasses, divide this result by 4 to get the brightness with glasses)
If the screen surface is measured in Square foot, you get the reflected brightness in Foot-Lambert
If the screen surface is measured in Square metre, you get the reflected brightness in Cd/m²
You'll be able to compare the brightness level with other displays to get a rough idea about what to expect. There is also some info on the web about recommended minimum brightness that you should achieve depending on the ambient light of your room.
Low brightness is the #1 issue with 3D, if the picture is not bright enough there will be no contrast and no colour to see so there's no point in absolutely wanting a white matte screen : these calculations will tell you whether you can afford a white matte screen (with a gain of 1.0) or if you need a higher gain screen (if you understand that brightness is more important than the drawbacks of high gain screens)
A white matte screen is the best for colour and view angles but is also not without problems. It's key benefit (radiates light almost equivalently in all directions) is also it's weakness : any ambient light (including the ambient light caused by the picture itself bouncing off the walls) will be reflected on it and destroy contrast : in other words you must use it in the dark
High gain screens deal with ambient light differently and are much more suitable for lit rooms.
Passive 3D forever
110" DIY dual-projection system
2x Epson EH-TW3500 (1080p) + Linear Polarizers (SPAR)
XtremScreen Daylight 2.0
VNS Geobox501 signal converter
Does Generic DLP mean projector's or just DLP Tv's
Does Generic DLP mean projector's or just DLP Tv's
H-Sync Range 31 ~ 80 kHz
V-Sync Range 56 ~ 85 Hz
H-Sync Range 31 ~ 80 kHz
V-Sync Range 56 ~ 85 Hz
Matte white sux for 3d, thats for sure.
I have an ACER H5360 at 120hz, what is that Toshiba?
Matte white sux for 3d, thats for sure.
I have an ACER H5360 at 120hz, what is that Toshiba?
H-Sync Range 31 ~ 80 kHz
V-Sync Range 56 ~ 85 Hz
New Acer 3D 1024 x 768 is $999 here is Australia
If matte white is no good then what is the right colour and material
I read this from a projector shop in Melb Aus
[quote]The performance of both LCD and DLP projectors are optimised by matte white projection surfaces.
Other screen materials will compromise image quality in one way or another to increase the screen's gain. A high gain material is simply unnecessary with today's projectors and is not worth the image quality loss.
Grey screens - There has recently been a lot of marketing hype about grey front projection screen materials which improve contrast. Unfortunately, with front projection, this results in a colour shift to the blue spectrum - not a problem with black and white projectors but ghastly with colour. Your whites will also be slightly off-white.
Glass beaded screens have a higher gain however you will experience a dramatic loss of viewing angle and a loss of resolution. Glass beaded screens are retro reflective, that is their preferred direction of reflection is to the light source. With a ceiling mounted projector, the brightest image is under the ceiling........ hardly the place to watch your DVD or videos. They are also
mechanically unstable in that the beads can move or fall off entirely, creating very distinctive dark spots.
Pearlescent screens have a higher gain, however colour shift to red occurs and there is a tendency to hot spot. They also have a narrow viewing angle, are not readily available and expensive.
Silver/Silver lenticular screens also provide a higher gain, however these screens will cause a colour shift to blue, have a smaller viewing angle and can hot spot. These screens are great for old black and white, low power projectors but not suitable for contemporary projectors. However, this material is still the best medium for 3D projection.
GM Multimedia Pty. Ltd., operators of JustProjectors.com.au no longer sells any of the above screen materials. We only sells premium matt white materials to ensure our customers receive the best image possible. Don't get caught up with the propaganda of high gain screens. It is not worth the compromise of image quality.
2C, Grand View & LP Morgan What's the difference?
We have chosen Herma as our exclusive provider of projection screens. After scouring the market we have determined that these screens offer the best possible image quality and great value in all areas of use.
2C is the value screen option, designed especially for educators & business professionals. There is a wide range of screen types and sizes available, including Tripod, Pull Down, Fixed Frame and small Portable self standing screens.
Grandview screens are designed for movies, television, and corporate projection. They come in widescreen (16:9) and standard television (4:3). Grandview screens are excellent for home theater and are available in manual pull down, motorised remote roller, and fixed frame. Grandview screens use an American PVC matt white material, one of the best materials on the market.
LP Morgan is Australia's premium projection screen and one of the most popular in the country. Made out of the highest quality materials available today, LP Morgan screens have won countless awards for innovation and projection quality. The LP Morgan screen is the perfect solution for a high-end home theatre set up and for hotel/casino promotion displays. LP Morgan screens are available in various sizes and can be custom designed to meet virtually any requirement. If you are after the best in projector screen technology, this is it.[/quote]
H-Sync Range 31 ~ 80 kHz
V-Sync Range 56 ~ 85 Hz
New Acer 3D 1024 x 768 is $999 here is Australia
If matte white is no good then what is the right colour and material
I read this from a projector shop in Melb Aus
These are Samsung's and Mitsubishi's rear projection DLP television equipped with a Vesa 3d sync plug at the back.
DLP-link 3D ready front projectors use frame alternate inputs. These would be more like generic CRT mode.
These are Samsung's and Mitsubishi's rear projection DLP television equipped with a Vesa 3d sync plug at the back.
DLP-link 3D ready front projectors use frame alternate inputs. These would be more like generic CRT mode.
Passive 3D forever
110" DIY dual-projection system
2x Epson EH-TW3500 (1080p) + Linear Polarizers (SPAR)
XtremScreen Daylight 2.0
VNS Geobox501 signal converter
BTW [url="http://www.mtbs3d.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=6054"]http://www.mtbs3d.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=6054[/url]
he uses the VGA in.
What is the lumen rating on that Toshiba pj?
BTW http://www.mtbs3d.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=6054
he uses the VGA in.
What is the lumen rating on that Toshiba pj?
You see these ACER 3d and optoma, and 3 year old 720p optoma are all built around the same DLP chip, darkchip3. This means that the rows between the pixels are dark.
I want at least a 720p darkchip3 pj , or like 2-3x 1024*768 dlp pj's for cheap.
You see these ACER 3d and optoma, and 3 year old 720p optoma are all built around the same DLP chip, darkchip3. This means that the rows between the pixels are dark.
I want at least a 720p darkchip3 pj , or like 2-3x 1024*768 dlp pj's for cheap.
But the question is will it work for 3D
But the question is will it work for 3D
Mate what is a shot pj or do you mean short
Mate what is a shot pj or do you mean short
There is no best screen : if you are looking for the best picture possible, you have to consider your projection system as a whole : projector + screen + 3D glasses + 120Hz mode + ambient light
and see what you get in the end in terms of : brightness, contrast, colour, hot-spotting, view angles and parasite lighting.
When using the projector in 3D mode, the projector already reduces the amount of available brightness, then the glasses eat up 3/4 of the rest, which make the picture very very dim. If you project on a big surface in order to get a very big picture, you'll get a very dark image which you can calculate through the ANSI-lumen output of the projector and the size of the screen (look for the real output values in 120Hz mode measured by reviewers, the ANSI-lumen manufacturer rating of the projector is the maximum brightness in 60Hz mode only).
The generic formulae to calculate the amount of perceived brightness is :
Projector brightness in 120Hz mode (in ANSI-Lumen) x Screen Gain / Screen surface area = Brightness reflected on the screen (without glasses, divide this result by 4 to get the brightness with glasses)
If the screen surface is measured in Square foot, you get the reflected brightness in Foot-Lambert
If the screen surface is measured in Square metre, you get the reflected brightness in Cd/m²
You'll be able to compare the brightness level with other displays to get a rough idea about what to expect. There is also some info on the web about recommended minimum brightness that you should achieve depending on the ambient light of your room.
Low brightness is the #1 issue with 3D, if the picture is not bright enough there will be no contrast and no colour to see so there's no point in absolutely wanting a white matte screen : these calculations will tell you whether you can afford a white matte screen (with a gain of 1.0) or if you need a higher gain screen (if you understand that brightness is more important than the drawbacks of high gain screens)
A white matte screen is the best for colour and view angles but is also not without problems. It's key benefit (radiates light almost equivalently in all directions) is also it's weakness : any ambient light (including the ambient light caused by the picture itself bouncing off the walls) will be reflected on it and destroy contrast : in other words you must use it in the dark
High gain screens deal with ambient light differently and are much more suitable for lit rooms.
There is no best screen : if you are looking for the best picture possible, you have to consider your projection system as a whole : projector + screen + 3D glasses + 120Hz mode + ambient light
and see what you get in the end in terms of : brightness, contrast, colour, hot-spotting, view angles and parasite lighting.
When using the projector in 3D mode, the projector already reduces the amount of available brightness, then the glasses eat up 3/4 of the rest, which make the picture very very dim. If you project on a big surface in order to get a very big picture, you'll get a very dark image which you can calculate through the ANSI-lumen output of the projector and the size of the screen (look for the real output values in 120Hz mode measured by reviewers, the ANSI-lumen manufacturer rating of the projector is the maximum brightness in 60Hz mode only).
The generic formulae to calculate the amount of perceived brightness is :
Projector brightness in 120Hz mode (in ANSI-Lumen) x Screen Gain / Screen surface area = Brightness reflected on the screen (without glasses, divide this result by 4 to get the brightness with glasses)
If the screen surface is measured in Square foot, you get the reflected brightness in Foot-Lambert
If the screen surface is measured in Square metre, you get the reflected brightness in Cd/m²
You'll be able to compare the brightness level with other displays to get a rough idea about what to expect. There is also some info on the web about recommended minimum brightness that you should achieve depending on the ambient light of your room.
Low brightness is the #1 issue with 3D, if the picture is not bright enough there will be no contrast and no colour to see so there's no point in absolutely wanting a white matte screen : these calculations will tell you whether you can afford a white matte screen (with a gain of 1.0) or if you need a higher gain screen (if you understand that brightness is more important than the drawbacks of high gain screens)
A white matte screen is the best for colour and view angles but is also not without problems. It's key benefit (radiates light almost equivalently in all directions) is also it's weakness : any ambient light (including the ambient light caused by the picture itself bouncing off the walls) will be reflected on it and destroy contrast : in other words you must use it in the dark
High gain screens deal with ambient light differently and are much more suitable for lit rooms.
Passive 3D forever
110" DIY dual-projection system
2x Epson EH-TW3500 (1080p) + Linear Polarizers (SPAR)
XtremScreen Daylight 2.0
VNS Geobox501 signal converter