[quote="D-Man11"]Is the combined image color reproduction pretty good?
It's too bad 2K and 4K PJs are pricey, Dual Passive would one again offer the best solution just as it had and still is the best for 1080P gaming. As long as you do not factor in the high dollar dual link dvi projectors.
Interestingly, I've seen a few posts mentioning that Nvidia is allowing span again for dual displays. Isn't that how you do it on your Radeon, by using span?
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Color reproduction with Omega is better when you use both eyes than each eye, it's like if the colour differences balance slightly each other.
If you were to analyse the colour accuracy in each eye independently, you'd get bad results.
However, if the differences are too big, then you get eye rivalry (like anaglyph) and you can't help but notice something is wrong with the colour. Especially if you are playing a game you have seen a thousand times on a standard monitor with good colour, the comparison make the inaccuracies shockingly obvious.
In that aspect, polarisation is orders of magnitude better, but then you need a silverscreen, and a very good one if you don't want too much crosstalk.
For the choice of projector, I just use entry level 1080p 2D projectors with hdmi input,
I convert miniDP->hdmi with active adapters (about 30€ a piece, it's much cheaper than buying a professional projector).
I hope future hdmi2.0 projectors will help make this kind of system much simpler.
Ideally, with hdmi2.0 all you'd need is a signal clone/splitter box and then use the projector's menus to select which picture you want to display.
At the moment, I output side by side at full resolution (3840x1080), span is not enough, with dual projection you also want frame-lock so that the pictures are updated simultaneously in both eyes at every V-sync, and in the future when it's available at each adaptive-sync/G-sync update.
Unfortunately the frame-lock feature is traditionally reserved for professional cards (quadro, firepro). Simply spanning the desktop on a consumer card will often result in asynchronous updates or 1-frame lag between the eyes. But you can achieve frame-lock reliably if you use Eyefinity.
I haven't used an Nvidia card in a while but I believe you'd have to use the Surround feature to get the same quality of sync.
If I want to use standardized stereoscopic formats, with the Geobox 501, I can use DisplayPort 3D frame sequential at 1080p120, however this signal is designed for active shutter glasses displays and the left/right frame order is not consistant. Whenever you use this system and then display it in sync on your projectors, there is a 50-50 chance of getting a 1-frame lag between the eyes. You have to switch 3D on and off multiple times until you get the proper order.
There is also the same issue with Nvidia 3D Vision's DVI frame sequential format.
Only hdmi frame-packing keeps a constant frame order, which is why only hdmi 2.0 would fully solve the output/input problem.
D-Man11 said:Is the combined image color reproduction pretty good?
It's too bad 2K and 4K PJs are pricey, Dual Passive would one again offer the best solution just as it had and still is the best for 1080P gaming. As long as you do not factor in the high dollar dual link dvi projectors.
Interestingly, I've seen a few posts mentioning that Nvidia is allowing span again for dual displays. Isn't that how you do it on your Radeon, by using span?
Color reproduction with Omega is better when you use both eyes than each eye, it's like if the colour differences balance slightly each other.
If you were to analyse the colour accuracy in each eye independently, you'd get bad results.
However, if the differences are too big, then you get eye rivalry (like anaglyph) and you can't help but notice something is wrong with the colour. Especially if you are playing a game you have seen a thousand times on a standard monitor with good colour, the comparison make the inaccuracies shockingly obvious.
In that aspect, polarisation is orders of magnitude better, but then you need a silverscreen, and a very good one if you don't want too much crosstalk.
For the choice of projector, I just use entry level 1080p 2D projectors with hdmi input,
I convert miniDP->hdmi with active adapters (about 30€ a piece, it's much cheaper than buying a professional projector).
I hope future hdmi2.0 projectors will help make this kind of system much simpler.
Ideally, with hdmi2.0 all you'd need is a signal clone/splitter box and then use the projector's menus to select which picture you want to display.
At the moment, I output side by side at full resolution (3840x1080), span is not enough, with dual projection you also want frame-lock so that the pictures are updated simultaneously in both eyes at every V-sync, and in the future when it's available at each adaptive-sync/G-sync update.
Unfortunately the frame-lock feature is traditionally reserved for professional cards (quadro, firepro). Simply spanning the desktop on a consumer card will often result in asynchronous updates or 1-frame lag between the eyes. But you can achieve frame-lock reliably if you use Eyefinity.
I haven't used an Nvidia card in a while but I believe you'd have to use the Surround feature to get the same quality of sync.
If I want to use standardized stereoscopic formats, with the Geobox 501, I can use DisplayPort 3D frame sequential at 1080p120, however this signal is designed for active shutter glasses displays and the left/right frame order is not consistant. Whenever you use this system and then display it in sync on your projectors, there is a 50-50 chance of getting a 1-frame lag between the eyes. You have to switch 3D on and off multiple times until you get the proper order.
There is also the same issue with Nvidia 3D Vision's DVI frame sequential format.
Only hdmi frame-packing keeps a constant frame order, which is why only hdmi 2.0 would fully solve the output/input problem.
Passive 3D forever
110" DIY dual-projection system
2x Epson EH-TW3500 (1080p) + Linear Polarizers (SPAR)
XtremScreen Daylight 2.0
VNS Geobox501 signal converter
Passive 3D forever
110" DIY dual-projection system
2x Epson EH-TW3500 (1080p) + Linear Polarizers (SPAR)
XtremScreen Daylight 2.0
VNS Geobox501 signal converter
Color reproduction with Omega is better when you use both eyes than each eye, it's like if the colour differences balance slightly each other.
If you were to analyse the colour accuracy in each eye independently, you'd get bad results.
However, if the differences are too big, then you get eye rivalry (like anaglyph) and you can't help but notice something is wrong with the colour. Especially if you are playing a game you have seen a thousand times on a standard monitor with good colour, the comparison make the inaccuracies shockingly obvious.
In that aspect, polarisation is orders of magnitude better, but then you need a silverscreen, and a very good one if you don't want too much crosstalk.
For the choice of projector, I just use entry level 1080p 2D projectors with hdmi input,
I convert miniDP->hdmi with active adapters (about 30€ a piece, it's much cheaper than buying a professional projector).
I hope future hdmi2.0 projectors will help make this kind of system much simpler.
Ideally, with hdmi2.0 all you'd need is a signal clone/splitter box and then use the projector's menus to select which picture you want to display.
At the moment, I output side by side at full resolution (3840x1080), span is not enough, with dual projection you also want frame-lock so that the pictures are updated simultaneously in both eyes at every V-sync, and in the future when it's available at each adaptive-sync/G-sync update.
Unfortunately the frame-lock feature is traditionally reserved for professional cards (quadro, firepro). Simply spanning the desktop on a consumer card will often result in asynchronous updates or 1-frame lag between the eyes. But you can achieve frame-lock reliably if you use Eyefinity.
I haven't used an Nvidia card in a while but I believe you'd have to use the Surround feature to get the same quality of sync.
If I want to use standardized stereoscopic formats, with the Geobox 501, I can use DisplayPort 3D frame sequential at 1080p120, however this signal is designed for active shutter glasses displays and the left/right frame order is not consistant. Whenever you use this system and then display it in sync on your projectors, there is a 50-50 chance of getting a 1-frame lag between the eyes. You have to switch 3D on and off multiple times until you get the proper order.
There is also the same issue with Nvidia 3D Vision's DVI frame sequential format.
Only hdmi frame-packing keeps a constant frame order, which is why only hdmi 2.0 would fully solve the output/input problem.
Passive 3D forever
110" DIY dual-projection system
2x Epson EH-TW3500 (1080p) + Linear Polarizers (SPAR)
XtremScreen Daylight 2.0
VNS Geobox501 signal converter