If you have any tips for your fellow 3d-ers, post it here.
example: somewhat better zooming using "pseudo-auto-convergence"
If you have a game in which you do alot of zooming in and out but that causes bad 3d because it makes things too close so that the game needs re-converging or less separation, try this: set the convergence hotkeys to be the same as the zoom keys. Set zoom-in to be the same as less-convergence and set zoom-out to correspond to more-convergence. Then when you use the keys, both things happen at the same time and it results in a weak kind of pseudo-auto-convergence. This worked on Lord of the Rings: Battle for Middle Earth 2 using hotkeys 8 and 2 on the keypad. It wasn't a huge help but a little is better than none. If you use the mouse wheel to zoom then you'll have to find your own workaround. Also this doesn't work so well with zoom-scopes that zoom in steps of zoom-levels as a toggle or cycle. For that, if there are 2 zoom levels and each uses it's own key and you use iZ3D's driver, then you can use preset hotkeys. That's another simple idea I wish nvidia would take from iZ3D.
Note this might not work with some key-combos, try others and use a speedpad.
One way to improve the first method is if you could set max/min convergence settings as well as adjust the speed of convergence. That's the problem. You can't adjust the speed of convergence to match the speed of the zoom unless you're using iZ3D's driver. Little things like that can make a big difference in how well 3d works for you. C'mon nvidia, we're still rooting for you to improve your product. Take these ideas. Just take 'em.
There are some more tips in the Topic: "post registry entries here". Feel free to copy them over here if you think they should be here too.
I know the subtitle I chose says "tips for better 3d operation" but I really mean for this thread to be more generic than that so that it can include 3d photography and movies and setups, not just games.
If you have any tips for your fellow 3d-ers, post it here.
example: somewhat better zooming using "pseudo-auto-convergence"
If you have a game in which you do alot of zooming in and out but that causes bad 3d because it makes things too close so that the game needs re-converging or less separation, try this: set the convergence hotkeys to be the same as the zoom keys. Set zoom-in to be the same as less-convergence and set zoom-out to correspond to more-convergence. Then when you use the keys, both things happen at the same time and it results in a weak kind of pseudo-auto-convergence. This worked on Lord of the Rings: Battle for Middle Earth 2 using hotkeys 8 and 2 on the keypad. It wasn't a huge help but a little is better than none. If you use the mouse wheel to zoom then you'll have to find your own workaround. Also this doesn't work so well with zoom-scopes that zoom in steps of zoom-levels as a toggle or cycle. For that, if there are 2 zoom levels and each uses it's own key and you use iZ3D's driver, then you can use preset hotkeys. That's another simple idea I wish nvidia would take from iZ3D.
Note this might not work with some key-combos, try others and use a speedpad.
One way to improve the first method is if you could set max/min convergence settings as well as adjust the speed of convergence. That's the problem. You can't adjust the speed of convergence to match the speed of the zoom unless you're using iZ3D's driver. Little things like that can make a big difference in how well 3d works for you. C'mon nvidia, we're still rooting for you to improve your product. Take these ideas. Just take 'em.
There are some more tips in the Topic: "post registry entries here". Feel free to copy them over here if you think they should be here too.
I know the subtitle I chose says "tips for better 3d operation" but I really mean for this thread to be more generic than that so that it can include 3d photography and movies and setups, not just games.
If one read on this site: [url="http://www.normankoren.com/makingfineprints1A.html"]http://www.normankoren.com/makingfineprints1A.html[/url]
one can see how to adjust Gamma and Brightness.
I downloaded some of the pictures and made this 3D picture:
[img]http://www.mtbs3d.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10004/3D_gamma_brightness.jpg[/img]
to test/adjust Gamma, Brightness and Color with 3D glasses active.
Same picture with explanations:
[attachment=9183:3D_gamma...xplained.jpg]
This improoves color, brightness and ghosting a bit.
You can adjust in the driver control panel or on monitor. Maybe add some Digital Vibrance. The glasses takes away the red color slightly I think.
Trial and error /whistling.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':whistling:' /> but worth it.
Bottom line: try using a mirror to lengthen the beam's path to get a larger display. It's a simple idea but it's easy to not think of it.
If you only have small room or apartment and want to use a projector to get a big display, try using a mirror. You can install the projector on the ceiling shining on a mirror on the wall above a couch so that the beam bounces off the mirror and lands on a screen on the wall below the projector. This effectively doubles the length of the room and the width of the image. This means you need a mirror about half the size of the image and it also means that the image will be a mirror-image but your projector shoud have an option to fix that by generating it's own mirror image so that the wall-mirror fixes it. Otherwise you would need to bounce the beam off of a second mirror. Of course you can come up with your own setups using a 45 degree reflection or whatever.
The only potential problem with this is if the image gets blurry from a secondary reflection off of the surface of the glass. I'll have to try this myself sometime and update this post.
There's something called a first-surface mirror that has the silver side facing you so that there can be no secondary reflection but I think a big mirror like that would be too expensive. A small one closer to the projector might be usefull though if you need a 45 degree bounce or something.
Please post if you use a setup something like this and tell us how well it works and what other problems it has and say whatever advice you have to offer.
OK, this tip isn't strictly for 3d but I use a projector for 3d sometimes and it's great and I thought it was a worthwhile tip for someone.
Bottom line: try using a mirror to lengthen the beam's path to get a larger display. It's a simple idea but it's easy to not think of it.
If you only have small room or apartment and want to use a projector to get a big display, try using a mirror. You can install the projector on the ceiling shining on a mirror on the wall above a couch so that the beam bounces off the mirror and lands on a screen on the wall below the projector. This effectively doubles the length of the room and the width of the image. This means you need a mirror about half the size of the image and it also means that the image will be a mirror-image but your projector shoud have an option to fix that by generating it's own mirror image so that the wall-mirror fixes it. Otherwise you would need to bounce the beam off of a second mirror. Of course you can come up with your own setups using a 45 degree reflection or whatever.
The only potential problem with this is if the image gets blurry from a secondary reflection off of the surface of the glass. I'll have to try this myself sometime and update this post.
There's something called a first-surface mirror that has the silver side facing you so that there can be no secondary reflection but I think a big mirror like that would be too expensive. A small one closer to the projector might be usefull though if you need a 45 degree bounce or something.
Please post if you use a setup something like this and tell us how well it works and what other problems it has and say whatever advice you have to offer.
OK, this tip isn't strictly for 3d but I use a projector for 3d sometimes and it's great and I thought it was a worthwhile tip for someone.
Here is how to make a JPS file for use with the Stereoscopic 3D Viewer.
1: Take a picture with a camera.
2: Move over to the right a little (a few inches to a foot depending on distance to object being photographed).
3: You should also turn the camera to the left slightly (I try to line up the same objects that are near the edge of the picture).
4: It's important to keep the camera as level as possible on both pictures otherwise you will need to do rotation editing later.
5: Using a photo editor like Photoshop Elements, open a New Blank File that is twice as wide as the resolution of your monitor and the same height.
6: Open both the left and right images into Photoshop Elements.
7: Select your Rectangular Marquee Tool.
8: Set that tool's mode to Fixed Aspect Ratio.
9: Set Aspect Ratio Width to half your monitor's width resolution (may have to divide by 4 if monitor resolution is greater than 2,000 pixels wide).
10: Set Aspect Ratio Height to half your monitor's height resolution (if you divided width by 4 then do the same with height).
11: Turn the View Grid option on to check alignment and rotation of the two images. Objects should be at the same level (height). Look at the tall objects in the scene for rotation comparison (should have same angle).
12: Use Image>Rotate>Custom if you need to adjust rotation of one of the images.
13: With Rectangular Marquee Tool selected, draw a box on the left image. I usually go from the left edge to the right edge of the image. You will have to go smaller if you made a rotation correction.
14: Now draw a box on the right image with the same width as the left image. (you may have to eyeball it if the width is less than width of the image but the grid could help you judge).
15: You can now adjust the vertical position of the right box by dragging it up and down so that the objects in the two scenes are the the same level (height).
16: Crop both the left and right images. Image>Crop. It will erase everything outside the rectangular selection.
17: Resize both the left and right images to match the resolution of your monitor. (Using pixels as your units) Image>Resize>Image Size
18: Drag the left image to the right hand side of the blank picture. Alternately you can copy and paste instead.
19: Drag the right image to the left hand side of the blank picture. Line both images up so that they fit neatly side by side.
20: Save the side by side picture as a high quality JPEG file. In Photoshop Elements 7, it allows you to change the extension of the file name by erasing the g in jpg and replacing it with an s.
21: Rename the extension to JPS in windows explorer if you were unable to do it in Photoshop. (You may have to change your folder options before are able to view file extensions in Windows Explorer).
22: You can now view your picture in the Stereoscopic 3D Viewer.
Here is how to make a JPS file for use with the Stereoscopic 3D Viewer.
1: Take a picture with a camera.
2: Move over to the right a little (a few inches to a foot depending on distance to object being photographed).
3: You should also turn the camera to the left slightly (I try to line up the same objects that are near the edge of the picture).
4: It's important to keep the camera as level as possible on both pictures otherwise you will need to do rotation editing later.
5: Using a photo editor like Photoshop Elements, open a New Blank File that is twice as wide as the resolution of your monitor and the same height.
6: Open both the left and right images into Photoshop Elements.
7: Select your Rectangular Marquee Tool.
8: Set that tool's mode to Fixed Aspect Ratio.
9: Set Aspect Ratio Width to half your monitor's width resolution (may have to divide by 4 if monitor resolution is greater than 2,000 pixels wide).
10: Set Aspect Ratio Height to half your monitor's height resolution (if you divided width by 4 then do the same with height).
11: Turn the View Grid option on to check alignment and rotation of the two images. Objects should be at the same level (height). Look at the tall objects in the scene for rotation comparison (should have same angle).
12: Use Image>Rotate>Custom if you need to adjust rotation of one of the images.
13: With Rectangular Marquee Tool selected, draw a box on the left image. I usually go from the left edge to the right edge of the image. You will have to go smaller if you made a rotation correction.
14: Now draw a box on the right image with the same width as the left image. (you may have to eyeball it if the width is less than width of the image but the grid could help you judge).
15: You can now adjust the vertical position of the right box by dragging it up and down so that the objects in the two scenes are the the same level (height).
16: Crop both the left and right images. Image>Crop. It will erase everything outside the rectangular selection.
17: Resize both the left and right images to match the resolution of your monitor. (Using pixels as your units) Image>Resize>Image Size
18: Drag the left image to the right hand side of the blank picture. Alternately you can copy and paste instead.
19: Drag the right image to the left hand side of the blank picture. Line both images up so that they fit neatly side by side.
20: Save the side by side picture as a high quality JPEG file. In Photoshop Elements 7, it allows you to change the extension of the file name by erasing the g in jpg and replacing it with an s.
21: Rename the extension to JPS in windows explorer if you were unable to do it in Photoshop. (You may have to change your folder options before are able to view file extensions in Windows Explorer).
22: You can now view your picture in the Stereoscopic 3D Viewer.
Manufacturing defects in ordinary mirrors:
So I finally tried this and the results were a little disappointing. Using an ordinary wall mirror can work but it turns out that the reflected image is kind of streaked with a kind of warped effect even after cleaning the mirror. I guess this is the result of imperfections made during the manufacturing of the mirror. You don't normally see them because they are small but the projector amplifies the effect. You can't see it in a complicated scene because the visual noise masks it but then when the scene is mostly one color, you can see it easily.
Secondary image:
When the reflection is close to 180 degrees, then you don't really see any secondary reflections so that's good but if you do a 90 degree reflection with a diagonal mirror, then you get not only a secondary image but also a tertiary image. So that's pretty bad. The secondary and tertiary images are usually dim and masked but if you're reading text on a black background, they're easliy visible. Oh well, it's still cool to have a projected image on your ceiling.
The first-surface mirrors I tested worked great with none of the above problems.
So basically if you're going to do this, try to use a good quality mirror but that might be expensive.
So I finally tried this and the results were a little disappointing. Using an ordinary wall mirror can work but it turns out that the reflected image is kind of streaked with a kind of warped effect even after cleaning the mirror. I guess this is the result of imperfections made during the manufacturing of the mirror. You don't normally see them because they are small but the projector amplifies the effect. You can't see it in a complicated scene because the visual noise masks it but then when the scene is mostly one color, you can see it easily.
Secondary image:
When the reflection is close to 180 degrees, then you don't really see any secondary reflections so that's good but if you do a 90 degree reflection with a diagonal mirror, then you get not only a secondary image but also a tertiary image. So that's pretty bad. The secondary and tertiary images are usually dim and masked but if you're reading text on a black background, they're easliy visible. Oh well, it's still cool to have a projected image on your ceiling.
The first-surface mirrors I tested worked great with none of the above problems.
So basically if you're going to do this, try to use a good quality mirror but that might be expensive.
If you have any tips for your fellow 3d-ers, post it here.
example: somewhat better zooming using "pseudo-auto-convergence"
If you have a game in which you do alot of zooming in and out but that causes bad 3d because it makes things too close so that the game needs re-converging or less separation, try this: set the convergence hotkeys to be the same as the zoom keys. Set zoom-in to be the same as less-convergence and set zoom-out to correspond to more-convergence. Then when you use the keys, both things happen at the same time and it results in a weak kind of pseudo-auto-convergence. This worked on Lord of the Rings: Battle for Middle Earth 2 using hotkeys 8 and 2 on the keypad. It wasn't a huge help but a little is better than none. If you use the mouse wheel to zoom then you'll have to find your own workaround. Also this doesn't work so well with zoom-scopes that zoom in steps of zoom-levels as a toggle or cycle. For that, if there are 2 zoom levels and each uses it's own key and you use iZ3D's driver, then you can use preset hotkeys. That's another simple idea I wish nvidia would take from iZ3D.
Note this might not work with some key-combos, try others and use a speedpad.
One way to improve the first method is if you could set max/min convergence settings as well as adjust the speed of convergence. That's the problem. You can't adjust the speed of convergence to match the speed of the zoom unless you're using iZ3D's driver. Little things like that can make a big difference in how well 3d works for you. C'mon nvidia, we're still rooting for you to improve your product. Take these ideas. Just take 'em.
There are some more tips in the Topic: "post registry entries here". Feel free to copy them over here if you think they should be here too.
I know the subtitle I chose says "tips for better 3d operation" but I really mean for this thread to be more generic than that so that it can include 3d photography and movies and setups, not just games.
Later.
If you have any tips for your fellow 3d-ers, post it here.
example: somewhat better zooming using "pseudo-auto-convergence"
If you have a game in which you do alot of zooming in and out but that causes bad 3d because it makes things too close so that the game needs re-converging or less separation, try this: set the convergence hotkeys to be the same as the zoom keys. Set zoom-in to be the same as less-convergence and set zoom-out to correspond to more-convergence. Then when you use the keys, both things happen at the same time and it results in a weak kind of pseudo-auto-convergence. This worked on Lord of the Rings: Battle for Middle Earth 2 using hotkeys 8 and 2 on the keypad. It wasn't a huge help but a little is better than none. If you use the mouse wheel to zoom then you'll have to find your own workaround. Also this doesn't work so well with zoom-scopes that zoom in steps of zoom-levels as a toggle or cycle. For that, if there are 2 zoom levels and each uses it's own key and you use iZ3D's driver, then you can use preset hotkeys. That's another simple idea I wish nvidia would take from iZ3D.
Note this might not work with some key-combos, try others and use a speedpad.
One way to improve the first method is if you could set max/min convergence settings as well as adjust the speed of convergence. That's the problem. You can't adjust the speed of convergence to match the speed of the zoom unless you're using iZ3D's driver. Little things like that can make a big difference in how well 3d works for you. C'mon nvidia, we're still rooting for you to improve your product. Take these ideas. Just take 'em.
There are some more tips in the Topic: "post registry entries here". Feel free to copy them over here if you think they should be here too.
I know the subtitle I chose says "tips for better 3d operation" but I really mean for this thread to be more generic than that so that it can include 3d photography and movies and setups, not just games.
Later.
one can see how to adjust Gamma and Brightness.
I downloaded some of the pictures and made this 3D picture:
[img]http://www.mtbs3d.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10004/3D_gamma_brightness.jpg[/img]
to test/adjust Gamma, Brightness and Color with 3D glasses active.
Same picture with explanations:
[attachment=9183:3D_gamma...xplained.jpg]
This improoves color, brightness and ghosting a bit.
You can adjust in the driver control panel or on monitor. Maybe add some Digital Vibrance. The glasses takes away the red color slightly I think.
Trial and error
one can see how to adjust Gamma and Brightness.
I downloaded some of the pictures and made this 3D picture:
to test/adjust Gamma, Brightness and Color with 3D glasses active.
Same picture with explanations:
[attachment=9183:3D_gamma...xplained.jpg]
This improoves color, brightness and ghosting a bit.
You can adjust in the driver control panel or on monitor. Maybe add some Digital Vibrance. The glasses takes away the red color slightly I think.
Trial and error
Bottom line: try using a mirror to lengthen the beam's path to get a larger display. It's a simple idea but it's easy to not think of it.
If you only have small room or apartment and want to use a projector to get a big display, try using a mirror. You can install the projector on the ceiling shining on a mirror on the wall above a couch so that the beam bounces off the mirror and lands on a screen on the wall below the projector. This effectively doubles the length of the room and the width of the image. This means you need a mirror about half the size of the image and it also means that the image will be a mirror-image but your projector shoud have an option to fix that by generating it's own mirror image so that the wall-mirror fixes it. Otherwise you would need to bounce the beam off of a second mirror. Of course you can come up with your own setups using a 45 degree reflection or whatever.
The only potential problem with this is if the image gets blurry from a secondary reflection off of the surface of the glass. I'll have to try this myself sometime and update this post.
There's something called a first-surface mirror that has the silver side facing you so that there can be no secondary reflection but I think a big mirror like that would be too expensive. A small one closer to the projector might be usefull though if you need a 45 degree bounce or something.
Please post if you use a setup something like this and tell us how well it works and what other problems it has and say whatever advice you have to offer.
OK, this tip isn't strictly for 3d but I use a projector for 3d sometimes and it's great and I thought it was a worthwhile tip for someone.
Later.
Bottom line: try using a mirror to lengthen the beam's path to get a larger display. It's a simple idea but it's easy to not think of it.
If you only have small room or apartment and want to use a projector to get a big display, try using a mirror. You can install the projector on the ceiling shining on a mirror on the wall above a couch so that the beam bounces off the mirror and lands on a screen on the wall below the projector. This effectively doubles the length of the room and the width of the image. This means you need a mirror about half the size of the image and it also means that the image will be a mirror-image but your projector shoud have an option to fix that by generating it's own mirror image so that the wall-mirror fixes it. Otherwise you would need to bounce the beam off of a second mirror. Of course you can come up with your own setups using a 45 degree reflection or whatever.
The only potential problem with this is if the image gets blurry from a secondary reflection off of the surface of the glass. I'll have to try this myself sometime and update this post.
There's something called a first-surface mirror that has the silver side facing you so that there can be no secondary reflection but I think a big mirror like that would be too expensive. A small one closer to the projector might be usefull though if you need a 45 degree bounce or something.
Please post if you use a setup something like this and tell us how well it works and what other problems it has and say whatever advice you have to offer.
OK, this tip isn't strictly for 3d but I use a projector for 3d sometimes and it's great and I thought it was a worthwhile tip for someone.
Later.
Here is how to make a JPS file for use with the Stereoscopic 3D Viewer.
1: Take a picture with a camera.
2: Move over to the right a little (a few inches to a foot depending on distance to object being photographed).
3: You should also turn the camera to the left slightly (I try to line up the same objects that are near the edge of the picture).
4: It's important to keep the camera as level as possible on both pictures otherwise you will need to do rotation editing later.
5: Using a photo editor like Photoshop Elements, open a New Blank File that is twice as wide as the resolution of your monitor and the same height.
6: Open both the left and right images into Photoshop Elements.
7: Select your Rectangular Marquee Tool.
8: Set that tool's mode to Fixed Aspect Ratio.
9: Set Aspect Ratio Width to half your monitor's width resolution (may have to divide by 4 if monitor resolution is greater than 2,000 pixels wide).
10: Set Aspect Ratio Height to half your monitor's height resolution (if you divided width by 4 then do the same with height).
11: Turn the View Grid option on to check alignment and rotation of the two images. Objects should be at the same level (height). Look at the tall objects in the scene for rotation comparison (should have same angle).
12: Use Image>Rotate>Custom if you need to adjust rotation of one of the images.
13: With Rectangular Marquee Tool selected, draw a box on the left image. I usually go from the left edge to the right edge of the image. You will have to go smaller if you made a rotation correction.
14: Now draw a box on the right image with the same width as the left image. (you may have to eyeball it if the width is less than width of the image but the grid could help you judge).
15: You can now adjust the vertical position of the right box by dragging it up and down so that the objects in the two scenes are the the same level (height).
16: Crop both the left and right images. Image>Crop. It will erase everything outside the rectangular selection.
17: Resize both the left and right images to match the resolution of your monitor. (Using pixels as your units) Image>Resize>Image Size
18: Drag the left image to the right hand side of the blank picture. Alternately you can copy and paste instead.
19: Drag the right image to the left hand side of the blank picture. Line both images up so that they fit neatly side by side.
20: Save the side by side picture as a high quality JPEG file. In Photoshop Elements 7, it allows you to change the extension of the file name by erasing the g in jpg and replacing it with an s.
21: Rename the extension to JPS in windows explorer if you were unable to do it in Photoshop. (You may have to change your folder options before are able to view file extensions in Windows Explorer).
22: You can now view your picture in the Stereoscopic 3D Viewer.
Thanks 3DGuy
Here is how to make a JPS file for use with the Stereoscopic 3D Viewer.
1: Take a picture with a camera.
2: Move over to the right a little (a few inches to a foot depending on distance to object being photographed).
3: You should also turn the camera to the left slightly (I try to line up the same objects that are near the edge of the picture).
4: It's important to keep the camera as level as possible on both pictures otherwise you will need to do rotation editing later.
5: Using a photo editor like Photoshop Elements, open a New Blank File that is twice as wide as the resolution of your monitor and the same height.
6: Open both the left and right images into Photoshop Elements.
7: Select your Rectangular Marquee Tool.
8: Set that tool's mode to Fixed Aspect Ratio.
9: Set Aspect Ratio Width to half your monitor's width resolution (may have to divide by 4 if monitor resolution is greater than 2,000 pixels wide).
10: Set Aspect Ratio Height to half your monitor's height resolution (if you divided width by 4 then do the same with height).
11: Turn the View Grid option on to check alignment and rotation of the two images. Objects should be at the same level (height). Look at the tall objects in the scene for rotation comparison (should have same angle).
12: Use Image>Rotate>Custom if you need to adjust rotation of one of the images.
13: With Rectangular Marquee Tool selected, draw a box on the left image. I usually go from the left edge to the right edge of the image. You will have to go smaller if you made a rotation correction.
14: Now draw a box on the right image with the same width as the left image. (you may have to eyeball it if the width is less than width of the image but the grid could help you judge).
15: You can now adjust the vertical position of the right box by dragging it up and down so that the objects in the two scenes are the the same level (height).
16: Crop both the left and right images. Image>Crop. It will erase everything outside the rectangular selection.
17: Resize both the left and right images to match the resolution of your monitor. (Using pixels as your units) Image>Resize>Image Size
18: Drag the left image to the right hand side of the blank picture. Alternately you can copy and paste instead.
19: Drag the right image to the left hand side of the blank picture. Line both images up so that they fit neatly side by side.
20: Save the side by side picture as a high quality JPEG file. In Photoshop Elements 7, it allows you to change the extension of the file name by erasing the g in jpg and replacing it with an s.
21: Rename the extension to JPS in windows explorer if you were unable to do it in Photoshop. (You may have to change your folder options before are able to view file extensions in Windows Explorer).
22: You can now view your picture in the Stereoscopic 3D Viewer.
Thanks 3DGuy
Manufacturing defects in ordinary mirrors:
So I finally tried this and the results were a little disappointing. Using an ordinary wall mirror can work but it turns out that the reflected image is kind of streaked with a kind of warped effect even after cleaning the mirror. I guess this is the result of imperfections made during the manufacturing of the mirror. You don't normally see them because they are small but the projector amplifies the effect. You can't see it in a complicated scene because the visual noise masks it but then when the scene is mostly one color, you can see it easily.
Secondary image:
When the reflection is close to 180 degrees, then you don't really see any secondary reflections so that's good but if you do a 90 degree reflection with a diagonal mirror, then you get not only a secondary image but also a tertiary image. So that's pretty bad. The secondary and tertiary images are usually dim and masked but if you're reading text on a black background, they're easliy visible. Oh well, it's still cool to have a projected image on your ceiling.
The first-surface mirrors I tested worked great with none of the above problems.
So basically if you're going to do this, try to use a good quality mirror but that might be expensive.
Manufacturing defects in ordinary mirrors:
So I finally tried this and the results were a little disappointing. Using an ordinary wall mirror can work but it turns out that the reflected image is kind of streaked with a kind of warped effect even after cleaning the mirror. I guess this is the result of imperfections made during the manufacturing of the mirror. You don't normally see them because they are small but the projector amplifies the effect. You can't see it in a complicated scene because the visual noise masks it but then when the scene is mostly one color, you can see it easily.
Secondary image:
When the reflection is close to 180 degrees, then you don't really see any secondary reflections so that's good but if you do a 90 degree reflection with a diagonal mirror, then you get not only a secondary image but also a tertiary image. So that's pretty bad. The secondary and tertiary images are usually dim and masked but if you're reading text on a black background, they're easliy visible. Oh well, it's still cool to have a projected image on your ceiling.
The first-surface mirrors I tested worked great with none of the above problems.
So basically if you're going to do this, try to use a good quality mirror but that might be expensive.
[b]Click the "Defaults" button the Stereo Video settings in game menu and turn ON hardware cursor for WoW.[/b]
Click the "Defaults" button the Stereo Video settings in game menu and turn ON hardware cursor for WoW.
1x Intel S5000Xvn Mainboard
2x Quad 2.66GHz Xeons (X5355, 8 Cores)
1x EVGA GTX480
8x 2GB FB-DIMM 667 (16GB)
2x 64GB Corsair M4 SSDs in RAID0 (System)
4x 1TB SATA2 64MB Cache Western Digital Black's in RAID0 (Storage)
1x Sound Blaster X-Fi Elite Pro
1x BD-ROM
1x DVD-RW
1x Antec High Current Pro HCP-1200 1200W Power Supply
1x Dell 30" 2560x1600 LCD
1x Samsung 22" 120hz GeForce 3D Vision Display
1x APC 1500VAC SmartUPS Battery Backup
1x Windows 7 Professional 64-Bit